Author Topic: What's this about downgrading in the new guidebook?  (Read 7428 times)

mungeclimber

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What's this about downgrading in the new guidebook?
« on: November 07, 2007, 07:41:36 PM »
LOL!!!!


sorry, had to.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: What's this about downgrading in the new guidebook?
« Reply #1 on: November 07, 2007, 08:29:07 PM »
Listen you. I've got photos of you with a long pony tail and I'm not afraid to use them...






(Um, Munge, could you help me post some photos?)

F4?

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Re: What's this about downgrading in the new guidebook?
« Reply #2 on: November 07, 2007, 09:00:34 PM »
I noticed that too.

When did Power Point become a 11D?

But at least finally Rocket in My Pocket is 10d.
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mungeclimber

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Re: What's this about downgrading in the new guidebook?
« Reply #3 on: November 07, 2007, 09:21:39 PM »

(Um, Munge, could you help me post some photos?)


send em on over.

But I think mudworm has some space too 
http://www.mudncrud.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=6639
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

F'ueco

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Re: What's this about downgrading in the new guidebook?
« Reply #4 on: November 07, 2007, 09:32:55 PM »
I noticed that too.

When did Power Point become a 11D?

But at least finally Rocket in My Pocket is 10d.


 I'm too lazy to travel the 10 feet to look at the old book, but wasn't Power Point .11d in the old book? 5.11d/5.12a? It's freaking overrated, whichever it is...
Live from Boulder, CO...

F4?

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Re: What's this about downgrading in the new guidebook?
« Reply #5 on: November 07, 2007, 09:39:55 PM »
Yah, Hueco, my thoughts...it's over-rated. But it was supposed to be the easiest 12, not that I have pulled it.

I'm stoked to have a FFA with an "X" rating!  :o

Eventhough I've since given my permission to retobolt the route. Wait a minute, didn't Mr Mud solo it? Yah, I want bolts on it.
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mynameismud

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Re: What's this about downgrading in the new guidebook?
« Reply #6 on: November 08, 2007, 08:57:49 AM »
  One of the real major problems with this guidebook as with others - not enough routes were down graded.  Power Point at 11D is still soft it could really go down 1 to 2 letter grades.
  One major contributing factor is climbing gyms over rating.  People learn in the gym, then go outside and think climbs are hard for that rating.  When in reality the ratings are soft.
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F'ueco

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Re: What's this about downgrading in the new guidebook?
« Reply #7 on: November 08, 2007, 08:59:55 AM »
Honestly, I'd give Power Point a 5.11a/b grade... It's only one move that is even somewhat hard. But then, it has been more than 10 years since I did it.  :)
Live from Boulder, CO...

F4?

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Re: What's this about downgrading in the new guidebook?
« Reply #8 on: November 08, 2007, 09:59:50 AM »
But think about our egos? We must care for them and at times stroke them. To say you climb 11s and 12s at the Pinnacles is good for the ego.

Power Point is a strenght problem that I can't must at all. So it's 12 for me in my world. Yet, I can get the moves on the 1st pitch of Ranger Bolts.

Then there's the McConachie family rating Munge & I saw scribed on a sign at the turn-off for Cal dome "McConachie 5.10whatever"

Munge, can you post it up? Pretty please?
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Brad Young

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Re: What's this about downgrading in the new guidebook?
« Reply #9 on: November 08, 2007, 10:14:34 AM »
Mr Mud said:

"One of the real major problems with this guidebook as with others - not enough routes were down graded.  Power Point at 11D is still soft it could really go down 1 to 2 letter grades.
  One major contributing factor is climbing gyms over rating.  People learn in the gym, then go outside and think climbs are hard for that rating.  When in reality the ratings are soft."

Stuff like this helps me remember why you're my absolute favorite whack job in the whole world. And, perhaps, too, the most consistent whack job I've ever known.

Sincerely, Your Friend,

Brad

squiddo

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Re: What's this about downgrading in the new guidebook?
« Reply #10 on: November 08, 2007, 11:10:01 AM »
Oh please, quit rubbing it in. Waiting patiently for the guide.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

karl

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Re: What's this about downgrading in the new guidebook?
« Reply #11 on: November 08, 2007, 03:46:36 PM »
Brad,

I do not wish on my worst enemy the kind of hell that you will receive over the next year.

"Too many stars"
"Too few stars"
"How could he downrate ____"
"If that's 11b, then Foreplay must be like 14a"

Grades are subjective and people forget that.  When a person climbs too much in one area, all the routes feel overgraded.  If a person is new to the area, many of the routes may feel impossible.  Grades are about consensus and I think you did a good job at trying to get as many opinions as possible.  People tend to forget that guide book authors put grades in as a guide, not as the absolute grade.  Nevertheless, people will complain.

As for routes like Power Point, 12a?  11a? (I think Mr Mud is sandbagging)  Who knows?  More importantly: Who cares?
I always thought that a route like that should merely have a V-grade, because it's impossible to tell what the route grade would be.  You are done with the hard stuff in the first couple of moves.

Alas, I don't have a copy yet.  But as soon as I get one, you'll hear all my complaints  ;)

squiddo

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Re: What's this about downgrading in the new guidebook?
« Reply #12 on: November 08, 2007, 04:08:00 PM »
ok....guide showed up. Brad, I'll make this easy on you. It's fecking PERFECT.

Thanks again.
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Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

joe

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Re: What's this about downgrading in the new guidebook?
« Reply #13 on: November 08, 2007, 06:20:57 PM »
what Karl said.

F'ueco

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Re: What's this about downgrading in the new guidebook?
« Reply #14 on: November 08, 2007, 10:02:38 PM »
I picked up my copy from Steve this evening... Looks good so far!
Live from Boulder, CO...

mynameismud

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Re: What's this about downgrading in the new guidebook?
« Reply #15 on: November 09, 2007, 09:26:22 AM »
Karl,
I agree with you mostly.  Except most modern routes now days are rated a bit soft.  And, secondly I am always correct when it comes to route ratings and since Brad did not go with all my demands his guidebook will always be mediocre, except for the maps.  I only sandbag people that I know real well.
I hate to brag but I just have to since I suck at climbing at this time cuz I am fat, soft and out of shape.  Power Point was almost a boulder problem but my spotter got tired of me falling on him.  That bottom part used to be fairly loose and I had a bitch of a time sticking that dyno, cuz I have always sucked at dyno's since they take commitment.
Here's ta sweat in your eye
Here's to sweat in your eye

F'ueco

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Re: What's this about downgrading in the new guidebook?
« Reply #16 on: November 09, 2007, 10:31:00 AM »
Almost a boulder problem? That's the only reason I was able to send it when I did. It's basically two "hard" moves tacked onto the beginning of a 5.9... And to make it easier, there's a huge ledge to rest on before you start the 5.9...
Live from Boulder, CO...