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Author Topic: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook  (Read 7375 times)
The Big
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« on: November 16, 2007, 02:35:41 PM »

A place for the author to “change” the book retroactively. Not a place to argue.
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« Reply #1 on: November 16, 2007, 05:42:14 PM »

What? no argueing.  Ban it!
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« Reply #2 on: November 28, 2007, 09:15:46 AM »

5. Correction, Page 202 (topo): As stated in the description, Flatiron - Original Route is two (short) pitches. All three of the Flatiron "Apron" routes are one pitch climbs that end at Original Route's first pitch, two bolt anchor . Appropriate route numbers are not on the topo, but they should be. These numbers should be at the two bolt anchor which in on the upper part of the topo (It is directly above where the word "easy" appears at two places).
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« Reply #3 on: December 05, 2007, 08:51:00 PM »

6. Correction, Page 362 (route 363.5, "Ola Verde"): Ola Verde does not have a bolt anchor on top. Also it is not  an "R" rated route. By way of further description: The cliff this route is on is 100 yards south of the Valle de Baile, on top of Pedras Bonitas Cliff. It faces north. The face has several streaks and is split by one chimney.  Ola Verde is in a shallow grey water steak with black streaks on either side, about in the center of the cliff, to the right of the chimney. The first bolt is obvious. The second bolt is in plain sight 22 feet off the ground, but is so well camoflaged that it is invisible. After 25 feet the climbing becomes easy. after 35 feet it is class three. Continue 80 feet more to the top of the ridge. Sit on the other side of it to belay.
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« Reply #4 on: December 09, 2007, 09:54:02 PM »

7. Clarification, Page 118 (route 286, "In the Soup"): There are two short, scruffy cliffs that sit above and "behind" Shoot the Tube. One such cliff is behind, but off to the right, maybe 50 feet away. This is not the cliff on which In the Soup is located. In the Soup is located on a short tier of cliffs which is directly back from the top of Shoot the Tube. This tier is about 90 feet away (to the west), and slightly downhill. Two short cracks are on this cliff. The left crack is very thin and dirty and covered with pine needles. In the Soup is the other crack, the one on the right, starting with a short chimney-like section. Good pro and decent rock. Also, it's probably 5.7, not 5.8.
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« Reply #5 on: December 10, 2007, 01:18:42 PM »

8. Correction, Page 363 (route 520.2, "Excemental Pinnacle"): This route does not exist. More specifically, this route and route 520.4, Seldom Seen Pinnacle - East Face are one and the same. I confirmed this by going to the area with one of the "Excremental Pinnacle" first ascentionists. This person immediately recognized "their" route, which is the exact same climb "found" by Glen Denny and Gary Coliver when they did the West Face route on Seldom Seen in 1974. Since the formation was named "Seldom Seen" in 1974 and "Excremental Pinnacle" in 1991, the name should remain Seldom Seen. The author's efforts in trying to find this pinnacle well illustrate how easily confusion arises about such things. Both routes were reported late last season, as the book was nearing completion, and after the raptor closures made the area off limits. Two sets of old notes and three people's recollection, all communicated to another person (the author) and then interpretted by him resulted in amazing differences (sounds a little like the children's game "Telephone").

9. Correction, Page 363 (route 509.6, "Long's Folly - Leftover"): The current description is correct up into the obvious chimney. However, once into the chimney, do not move up and left on the obvious ramp. Instead, continue (walking) in the chimney to where the ground is at its highest point within the chimney itself. From there stem up between Long's Folly and Leftover. Halfway up this stemming section a slot/hole on Leftover accepts a good 2 1/2 inch cam or stopper. Continue to the top. By way of further information: the route crux is getting past the bolt and it is very reach dependant. Also, at a flat spot near the top, there is a second, hard to see bolt which can be used for a belay. It is just right of a shallow hole, at the base of a slab which leads 15 feet farther to the summit. This bolt is not positioned for rappel, but a slight low point on the formation's southeast shoulder allows a safe, two rope "Pinnacles rappel."

10. Correction, Page 363 (route 509.5, "East - Center Pinnacle"): This pinnacle, which is climbed after ascending Leftover, is north - northwest, not west of the summit of Leftover. Traverse over to this "pinnacle," fourth class, from a shoulder of Leftover (a level area just below its summit) around Leftover's east side.
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« Reply #6 on: December 16, 2007, 01:34:04 PM »

I edited corrections 8 and 9 today to reflect new information.
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« Reply #7 on: January 26, 2008, 11:57:41 PM »

213 is an independent line from 214
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« Reply #8 on: March 03, 2008, 11:07:52 AM »

11. Clarification, Page 362 (route 448.2, "Lightning Bolt Crack - Original Finish"): After climbing the route and further exploring poor memories about what they did with Jack H, and Keith V, I am now certain that this original finish is one more pitch to the top of this distinct formation only (and not to the top of The Hippopotamus, which is several tiers of rock behind this). Therefore, a better description is: From the bolt anchor at the top of the actual Lightning Bolt Crack move right behind a flake and then along a brushy ledge for about 90 feet. Where the ledge rejoins the ground, climb up and left, around a bit of a corner. Climb along a mossy face next to an up-and-left dihedral with a crack (good medium and large cams here). Twenty feet up is a low angle stance. Tie off a tiny tree. Continue up and left on an obvious, fairly clean, easy slab. One good four inch cam in a hole protects this slab. Finish on the low angle arete which makes up the last 20 feet of the bolted second pitch face of the "regular" Lightning Bolt Crack route. Although the first ascentionists likely wrapped the rope around a small pinnacle to rap off the back side, since both variants now end at the modern two bolt anchor, it is easier to rappel off the front to the top of the first pitch. The first pitch (the Lightning Bolt Crack) is 5.8. The original second pitch is 5.6 R.

Although the "regular" Lightning Bolt Crack route is OK, this original finish is very chossy and should probably only be done by the most fanatic fans of obscure Pinnacles routes.
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« Reply #9 on: May 03, 2008, 06:21:42 PM »

12. Clarification, Page 363 (route 840.2, "Ethical Divide"): Start the chimney climbing near where the ground is highest (the west side of the chimney). Climb 5.5, up and gradually toward the east, using cams from one to four inches in holes. At the top of the chimney a bolt protects moves onto the shoulder of Ethical Pinnacle. Finish on "No Hooks, No Raps...." (The finish is probably only 5.7, making Ethical Divide 5.7, not 5.8.)
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« Reply #10 on: May 04, 2008, 10:28:03 AM »

When is the 2nd Edition coming out?
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« Reply #11 on: May 04, 2008, 11:17:28 AM »

F4, the day after tomorrow Roll Eyes.
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« Reply #12 on: November 11, 2008, 10:05:45 AM »

13. Correction, Page 137 (route 337, "South Side Shuffle"): This route ends on a high point just north of The Frog's highest point. The formation high point isn't accessible by class two (the highest point is the part of the formation that looks like a frog from the north, that is, from on the approach). The farther-north high point where South Side Shuffle ends is a "gathering spot" where walk offs from almost all Frog routes join before moving down this route to the ground. For some forgotten reason, there are two old bolts here.
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« Reply #13 on: February 10, 2009, 06:47:44 AM »

14. Correction, Pages 259 and 260 (route 637, "Lonesome Bolt"): This route is rated 5.6 R in the book. The crux is actually 5.8. Also, the crux is high enough above the one bolt that a fall there could result in decking from 25 feet up, onto a terrible landing. None of the knobs will accept slings. So, Lonesome bolt is 5.8 X.
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« Reply #14 on: March 24, 2009, 08:49:53 PM »

15. Correction, Pages 178 and 179 (route 449, "Tom Turkey"): This route is solid 5.7, not 5.4. Also, it is more of a chimney than it is a stemming problem. The current description resulted from the two different ways the first ascentionists climbed the route. Bring cams from four inches and up.
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« Reply #15 on: November 03, 2009, 07:50:09 AM »

16.  Correction, Page 266 (text regarding "Berserker Route"):  At the end of Berserker Route it is easier to use the top anchor for Costanoan than it is to build a gear anchor.
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« Reply #16 on: November 03, 2009, 01:06:53 PM »

Hey Brad,
I haven't seen the new book and am now living in the southeast so probably won't be buying it but here are a couple of errors I noticed in the last one.
1) Fat Lips on Discovery Wall was put up by Jeffrey Dopp and John McCoy in '94 and was originally called "Labor of Love". I have no idea where the name Fat Lips came from.

2) The roof next to Portent that bears the name "Labor of Love" was put up by us as well but we called it "Passover" because we put it up on Passover Sunday '94 and you often pass over the crowd at the base.
Perhaps they can go in the next printing.

Thanks Brad!
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« Reply #17 on: November 03, 2009, 01:47:36 PM »

Clint and I worked on this misnaming issue, and apparently, got it half right. The route just left of The Big Pucker is, in the new book, called "Labor of Love," which, from your post is correct (if I'm reading your post correctly, you're using the name "Fat Lip" for this route which was misapplied to it in David's book). And the FA appendix in the new book indicates the prior mislabeling to help aleviate confusion.

BTW, the new book has John and Jeff on the FA of Labor of Love, but also includes Eric Brand. Guessing that you must be Eric?

The route next to Portent, over the roof, is called Fat Lip in the new book and the FA appendix states unknown. Neither Clint nor I had ever heard the name "Passover," so that's the half we got wrong. And we had no info about who did the FA, so that's listed as "unknown" in the new book. I'll make notes for the "next" edition (next in quotes because I can't even imagine doing another edition - but let's see what the years bring).
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« Reply #18 on: November 03, 2009, 08:00:04 PM »

Lol...yeah I'm sure it took a ton of effort on your part to do this and is truly a labor of love! I am grateful to you and anyone that undertakes this grand challenge as it benefits us all...Thank You!!!

The Passover name may never have gotten relayed to the appropriate people as we weren't particularly proud of the route...just something fun we did one weekend. I think someone once called it contrived, which I can understand I guess...we were just having fun. We did Labor of Love and Passover around the same time and our attention (obsession) was quickly being drawn to Cuidado.

I am Jeff Dopp. Eric Brand who was a great friend and exceptional climber with big routes from El Cap, Leaning Tower, Patagonia and the Himalayas to his credit died a couple of years ago of a heart attack in his kitchen in southern New Mexico. He wasn't involved with Labor of Love. We met in Marin county at Split Rock in the late eighties and spend many a fine day at the Pinns.

If the name Fat Lip sticks, so be it, but I just thought you may want to know the real history. We really liked the Labor of Love climb though and thought that it was the true line of where Big Pucker should go if you followed the "features".

Again Brad, Thanks for all the work you've put into the guide and your attempts to keep accurate updates.

Nice Job!
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« Reply #19 on: November 03, 2009, 08:22:22 PM »

"Eric Brand who was a great friend and exceptional climber with big routes from El Cap, Leaning Tower, Patagonia and the Himalayas to his credit died a couple of years ago of a heart attack in his kitchen in southern New Mexico."

Oh, god, that's right. I had heard that he died and totally forgot. I met Eric once at Discovery Wall. I remember my overriding "take-away" was that, if the Alex Lowe theorem about "the best climber" was true, Eric surely fit the mold ("the best climber is the one having the most fun").

My book does call Passover (in the book, Fat Lip), "contrived," but I've climbed it. I'll correct the FA on Labor of Love (in addition to the other changes I've noted) for any future edition. Thanks Jeff for your kind comments about the "labor of love."
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« Reply #20 on: November 03, 2009, 08:41:14 PM »

I just want to throw out some big thx to the admins of this site for having a place that allows for the Jeff and others to bring to life the history of a truly historical climbing location.  Unearthing history is an archealogical dig metaphor. Unearthing the layers section by section.

very cool guys


Big ups to the Muds!

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« Reply #21 on: November 03, 2009, 08:53:13 PM »


Oh, god, that's right. I had heard that he died and totally forgot. I met Eric once at Discovery Wall. I remember my overriding "take-away" was that, if the alex Lowe theorem about "the best climber" was true, Eric surely fit the mold ("the best climber is the one having the most fun").


Yeah you nailed it! Eric was never the best free climber or fastest, or whatever but he LIVED for climbing. He had more stamina than anyone I've ever climbed with. He always left me in the dust on approaches and was always prepared for the long haul.

He was a super kind and loyal friend that would give the puff-ball jacket off his back if you needed it. He was doing R&D for Marmot the winter we did Cuidado and would show up with, not only a big box of 5 piece Rawl drive bolts, but his Volvo wagon was full of cool Marmot gear we could "try-out" on those cold windy, icy and sometimes snowy belays.

He was a climber to the bone and is sorely missed by many.
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« Reply #22 on: November 09, 2009, 01:29:20 PM »

Route 412 - update to First Ascent Info:  FA David S. Wilson and Dylan Williams  ~1984


edit - BY asked me for source of this info so updating this post... I am the source. I talked to one of the FA party members.
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« Reply #23 on: April 14, 2010, 08:08:13 PM »

17. Correction, page 320 (route 792, "The Arch - Up the Center"): This route does not start "...well to the right." Although I inspected the route before putting it in the book, I focused on the end of the climbing and the bolt up high. Although I stood at the base of the route several times, I missed a fixed piton in a small corner on the main face below the seam/crack (it is very rusty and not so easy to see). I finally spotted this pin, and, upon closer inspection also found a bolt hole (without anything in it though) about four feet below it. There is also definitely one more "empty" hole above the fixed pin and maybe two more holes. The first ascent party clearly climbed the face below the crack/seam using free moves to a large hook placement to a bolt (later removed?) to a pin to one or two more bolts (now also holes). This leads directly to the start of the seam/crack.
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« Reply #24 on: February 10, 2011, 11:45:17 AM »

18.  Correction, page 229 (route 570, “Freedom Dome - Regular Route”):  The topo shows rappelling off to the right, 125 feet to the ground.  It is better (and easy) to rappel 95 feet to the ground, slightly left, directly to the base of Regular Route.
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« Reply #25 on: February 10, 2011, 12:01:49 PM »

Quote
18.  Correction, page 229 (route 570, “Freedom Dome - Regular Route”):  The topo shows rappelling off to the right, 125 feet to the ground.  It is better (and easy) to rappel 95 feet to the ground, slightly left, directly to the base of Regular Route.

Now that explains why Squiddo was having trouble getting off Freedom dome.
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« Reply #26 on: March 28, 2011, 09:31:01 AM »

For consideration:

Dionysian Tower should receive an X or R rating.

Left Toe: route can be creatively protected by climbing the Right Toe, bring partner up then with just enough slack do a big stem and commit to the Left Toe (better protection than the leeper hanger and star dryv down low). Both toes are fairly clean lines.  Anchor condition on Left Toe is one Leeper Hanger and star dryv. Needs updating, but isn't too bad. Feels solid for what it is.

Anchor condition on Right Toe was an allen head 3/8" in a sleeve, sticking out half an inch, with a very thin aluminum hanger, tat and crappy ring. Forgot to cut the tat before we left, but we did beef up that anchor with a SS 2.25" Powers sleeve anchor in good rock with screw gate and ring. Unfortunately it needs paint to make it low profile visually. Hoping to get back up soon and minimize the visual.

 

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« Reply #27 on: July 30, 2011, 12:43:54 PM »

For investigation:

Talked to Greg Schaffer this weekend. Got a chance to look at his guidebooks. Greg is a couple years older than me. he has a copy of the Roper guidebook, and in it are his personal notes.  One of which is the FA info for a route in the Hanging Valley.  He thought it was mislabelled in the current book, so for history's sake, here is what I copied out...

"The Prod 5.6 FA Sept 14, 1968. Greg and Jeff Schaffer. Bottom of valley [hanging valley]. 30' high pinnacle."

something about leeper on stud useful
something about ending or leaning and kaspareks
bolt placed on top on FA.

Brad, I'll get you Greg's email if you like to confirm up with him what it really says and his recollections.

Thx Holo for hooking us up with Greg.
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« Reply #28 on: July 31, 2011, 05:47:15 AM »

Not sure whether this comes within the category "corrections," or is it an additional route that has never been documented, or maybe "one of the above, not enough information?"

Although it's so hot I can't bear to think of Pinnacles (I'm sitting in shorts, a little too warm, at 6:00 A.M.), I'd really enjoy communication with Greg about this. Maybe even go out there with him and check it out. Does he still live in this area?
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« Reply #29 on: July 31, 2011, 09:22:32 AM »

yep he's still in the bay area. I'll send that over. Greg thought it was a 'correction' type thing.
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« Reply #30 on: July 31, 2011, 04:01:01 PM »

Pinns this time of year is nice if you go in the evening...Smiley
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« Reply #31 on: November 26, 2011, 10:36:44 PM »

Recommend changing the rating on "Ridge Rock - South Ridge" from 5.3 to something harder (assuming the route tops the summit of the furthest north rock). The move from the bolts to the last formation are harder than 5.3. I backed off after inspection of the holds.
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« Reply #32 on: December 12, 2011, 04:00:56 PM »

Two new corrections based on input over the last three seasons and on my personal observations:

19.  Correction, page 291 (route 722, “The Powers That Be”):  Several experienced parties who have climbed this route in the last three years have felt that this is worth one, not two stars.

20.  Correction, page 127 (route 312, “Ridge Rock - South Ridge”):  Consensus is that the moves onto the summit are significantly harder than 5.3 (especially considering these moves serious exposure); a better rating would be 5.5 (at least).
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« Reply #33 on: December 12, 2011, 04:32:33 PM »

A bit surprised by this.  I always thought The Powers that Be and No Sense of Measure were awesome routes.  Steep, full pitch, great location and fun moves.
Is No Sense of Measure still two stars?

19.  Correction, page 291 (route 722, “The Powers That Be”):  Several experienced parties who have climbed this route in the last three years have felt that this is worth one, not two stars.

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« Reply #34 on: December 12, 2011, 05:01:45 PM »

I tend to agree that both routes are two star routes. But The Powers That Be seems to be a little looser. In the last two years I've gotten strong comments from two parties whose experience and views I very much respect (and who you know too, Mud):

1. Last season Jerry D (photographer) and his friends Chuck and Eric (or his friend Curt, I can't recall which) did the route. Of them, neither Jerry nor Chuck have a lot of Pinns experience, but the third partner did. They were adamant that the route stunk, that it was loose everywhere and not worth any stars. I disagreed and, in the back of my mind, I put their comments down to lack of love for and experience with Pinnacles. But I know all three of them and I've especially climbed a bunch with Jerry. They're too experienced to just discard their thoughts.

2. On the first weekend of this month, Alan and Tonya did the route. Alan is pretty much a master of mud by this point (clear down to having in his collection at home a chalked up Pinnacles hold that blew off while he was using it). Tonya's pretty damn good too. Their initial comments were very much along the lines of what Jerry and his friends said, although less vehement. They thought one star.

I ran this all by Jim, and he could see maybe one star. I think you and I and Jim, and our type may be dying out at Pinns. Does anyone climb any unstarred routes there anymore? Does anyone climb anything that involves adventure anymore? Sigh.
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« Reply #35 on: December 12, 2011, 06:36:06 PM »

Heavens gate!!!! It needs a star.

The issue maybe the rock quality to the spacing of the bolts. Not that I'm complaining, just an observation as to the lack of traffic. Now with more traffic, maybe the routes would clean up??

So folks get on peregrine and give the route some love.
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« Reply #36 on: December 12, 2011, 06:47:04 PM »

ok, thank you for the feedback.  I disagree but understand.  They have loose rock and the bolts are spaced a bit.  The 2nd pitches are full value 5.10.
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« Reply #37 on: December 13, 2011, 07:39:53 AM »

Interesting reading about The Powers That Be... I'd definitely still like to tackle this route in the near future and see for myself.

Brad, in regards to your statement about "unstarred routes" and "anything that involves adventure" - Joe and I didn't see you on Sunday because we went to the north side of Balconies and did Echoes, followed by the first two pitches of Nexus, then finishing with Sexus (because we coudln't find any bolts on the first half of the last Nexus pitch). I think that should satisfy the "unstarred" and "adventure" requirements! We were both wondering when the last party had been there to climb those routes.

Nexus was awesome, despite some loose rock... I would have onsighted the first pitch if not for a knob that busted off in my left hand. The sustained 5.10 moves followed by 5.11a stemming were lots of fun. Echoes and Sexus were loose... Joe and I kept yelling out "adventure climbing!" as well as some more crass swearing.
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« Reply #38 on: December 13, 2011, 08:11:22 AM »

Ahh, Echoes, another Jim Mc Route.

I hope the holds were sufficiently brushed for you. Jim followed me up it and kept stopping to clean his route.

It too needs some love.

Any pictures to share of Nexus? That route looks so cool.
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« Reply #39 on: December 13, 2011, 08:32:09 AM »

Gavin yes, it's true that I was exaggerating. A few people get out on the less traveled routes. And maybe it's about the same number that it has always been. It doesn't seem that way though.

Nexus is impressive. Other than me and Rob and Dennis I know Jack Holmgren and Jim McConachie have been on that one. I don't know of anyone else that's ever tried it. You've led Conduit not once, but twice in one season. And Mudmittens and Joe did it too. Joe is especially funny about "off the beaten path" routes. He complains loudly about their quality... and then heads off right away to do another.
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« Reply #40 on: December 13, 2011, 09:52:00 AM »

When I lead the upper pitches of Nexus I found one of the bolts accidently While brushing off moss when I was trying to find a hold.

Was the bottle opening still there?
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« Reply #41 on: December 13, 2011, 10:09:19 AM »

"Was the bottle opening still there?"

Are you going from memory? Joe posted a photo of the bottle opener bolted to the rock on Nexus, but he posted on the wrong forum (somehow he put it on Supertopo forum). I have no memory of a bottle opener bolted to the rock, but there it is in the photo. You do remember it?
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« Reply #42 on: December 13, 2011, 10:22:40 AM »

Yes, I was going from memory.  Have not seen the pics.

"Was the bottle opening still there?"

Are you going from memory? Joe posted a photo of the bottle opener bolted to the rock on Nexus, but he posted on the wrong forum (somehow he put it on Supertopo forum). I have no memory of a bottle opener bolted to the rock, but there it is in the photo. You do remember it?
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« Reply #43 on: December 13, 2011, 11:31:50 AM »

shall we start a new thread on the balconies?

Pictures would be nice
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« Reply #44 on: December 13, 2011, 11:37:24 AM »


 Joe is especially funny about "off the beaten path" routes. He complains loudly about their quality... and then heads off right away to do another.

Ha, this is a fair statement. Its a sickness many of us share.
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« Reply #45 on: December 13, 2011, 01:03:38 PM »

Just my two cents on the Powers That Be...  it definitely has fun moves.  The second tough spot up high at the bulge above the mini mantle comes as a fun surprise.  However, the route is really is crumbly.  Really crumbly! 

Alan figured out a new sequence that keeps the rating between the 1st and 2nd bolt at 11b but the moves are now off left of the bolts instead of under and slightly right as the old holds have all broken off.

For two stars, I figure the route should have some decent rock on it and a little longevity.  The belayer definitely needs a helmet on this route!

Maybe this is why I am "WannabeMistress".  A true Mistress of Mud would revel in the crumbles!!
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« Reply #46 on: December 13, 2011, 01:23:23 PM »

A new member posting? Shocking!

Edit: Come on this isn't Micky's beach. The rock isn't always perfect, just enough to get by.
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« Reply #47 on: December 13, 2011, 01:34:39 PM »

I just love the login id...  WannabeMisstress

Welcome to the forum, even if you down rate one of my favorite climbs.

I suppose that arguement makes sense.  a two star route should have some good rock.  Did you do the second pitch?  If so how did you like it?
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« Reply #48 on: December 13, 2011, 01:36:06 PM »

Nice first post.

And, Factor, you know her; might even have climbed with her.
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« Reply #49 on: December 13, 2011, 01:45:59 PM »

Nice first post.

And, Factor, you know her; might even have climbed with her.

Tonya?
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« Reply #50 on: December 13, 2011, 02:31:57 PM »

not sure how to insert a quote here, but to your assessment Brad, I agree...

but once again, especially on Sexus where you're making serious moves on moss and dirt dozens of feet above your last bolt, which isn't really a bolt and may have been installed some time in the 18th century, I find myself questioning, what the f am I doing? on run out Tuolumne face climbs, at least you're standing on, smearing on rock...but it's hard to pretend that stuff is rock especially when covered in a forest of moss...

I have a few pix, but it's easier to put them on FB or the taco since you can upload them directly to the forum rather than the multi-stage process required here...I'll post some links...
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« Reply #51 on: December 13, 2011, 02:33:51 PM »



but once again, especially on Sexus where you're making serious moves on moss and dirt dozens of feet above your last bolt, which isn't really a bolt and may have been installed some time in the 18th century, I find myself questioning, what the f am I doing? on run out Tuolumne face climbs, at least you're standing on, smearing on rock...but it's hard to pretend that stuff is rock especially when covered in a forest of moss...
 

Ha, also had this experience in Yosemite on bad rock. Its not even close to what you can have at the pinns!
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« Reply #52 on: December 13, 2011, 02:42:29 PM »


but once again, especially on Sexus where you're making serious moves on moss and dirt dozens of feet above your last bolt, which isn't really a bolt and may have been installed some time in the 18th century, I find myself questioning, what the f am I doing? on run out Tuolumne face climbs, at least you're standing on, smearing on rock...but it's hard to pretend that stuff is rock especially when covered in a forest of moss...


Now that's one of the great Pinnacles quotes  Smiley

Adventure it is. Or we could just all go bowling?
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« Reply #53 on: December 13, 2011, 08:49:25 PM »

Yeah, the can opener hanger on the belay station for the second pitch of Nexus was hilarious... And it said "Disneyland" on it.

Interesting to hear the short list of folks that have been on Nexus... That first pitch is pretty sweet. It looks rather intimidating from the base, but the 5.10 moves are fun, heady... and the 5.11 moves are awesome. The thin stemming alone is worth the effort. Rapping down the top pitch of Nexus, I only saw two bolts near the top water chute section, literally hidden in moss growing over them!

I'm definitely up for more Balconies routes this next weekend (I'll be in Zion National Park with family the X-Mas week)... I'm hoping to coax Alacia into joining me for an ascent of the Back Nine on Sunday at least, but should be around on Saturday and Monday as well...
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« Reply #54 on: December 14, 2011, 11:02:30 AM »

a few photos:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2789449423463.2147785.1475177779&type=1&l=2fef709904
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« Reply #55 on: December 14, 2011, 01:48:57 PM »

that rock looks sweet.
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« Reply #56 on: December 15, 2011, 09:37:39 AM »

This is getting just as much off topic as a supertaco thread.
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« Reply #57 on: December 15, 2011, 09:44:38 AM »

Not that far yet.  No politics.
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« Reply #58 on: December 15, 2011, 09:51:47 AM »

Not that far yet.  No politics.

There is now
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« Reply #59 on: December 15, 2011, 10:21:41 AM »

Not that far yet.  No politics.

Obviously you're an ignorant far right wing extremist.
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« Reply #60 on: December 15, 2011, 10:23:35 AM »

This is getting just as much off topic as a supertaco thread.

It is drifting. But once Dennis gets around to making the consolidated corrections stay at the top of each page, it will, like the new routes sticky, have all the information in one spot. The  rest will just be noise.
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« Reply #61 on: December 15, 2011, 10:40:02 AM »

Burp!
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« Reply #62 on: December 15, 2011, 05:19:17 PM »

Crop or split discussions off. Keep it current and clean.
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« Reply #63 on: December 15, 2011, 05:22:42 PM »

Crop or split discussions off. Keep it current and clean.


Dont make me ban you
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« Reply #64 on: December 15, 2011, 05:29:46 PM »

I did not see the post with the 20 corrections.

It is drifting. But once Dennis gets around to making the consolidated corrections stay at the top of each page, it will, like the new routes sticky, have all the information in one spot. The  rest will just be noise.
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« Reply #65 on: December 15, 2011, 05:52:48 PM »

I did not see the post with the 20 corrections.


It's the second post of the thread, on page one. They're numbered, paragraph by paragraph.
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« Reply #66 on: December 15, 2011, 06:05:02 PM »

I think I screwed it up.  Can you consolidate the posts again then start a new thread and I will make that one the sticky and drop this one.
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« Reply #67 on: December 15, 2011, 06:21:31 PM »

what was this thread for?
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« Reply #68 on: December 15, 2011, 08:01:55 PM »

what was this thread for?

Mainly to confuse the simple minded. Apparently that worked  Cheesy Cheesy

I'll start it over.
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« Reply #69 on: December 15, 2011, 08:03:24 PM »

No you didn't screw it up, it's right there, all in the new one. But now that it stands alone, I'll need to edit what I wrote a little.
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« Reply #70 on: December 15, 2011, 08:09:16 PM »

There, I think we're in good shape now.

Although the AAC event is still a sticky but it's been 6 months since it took place  Shocked
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« Reply #71 on: December 15, 2011, 08:55:50 PM »

What van we say...cheap labor.

Speaking of aac and pinns. I'll see about teaming up for fy12.

Any word on a rock pile??
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« Reply #72 on: December 15, 2011, 09:07:40 PM »

when I look at your post it is a bunch of individual posts.  I did something wrong somewhere.
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« Reply #73 on: December 15, 2011, 09:10:06 PM »

I just checked it again and it looks like one continuous post to me.
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« Reply #74 on: December 15, 2011, 09:12:36 PM »

ok give me a bit
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« Reply #75 on: December 15, 2011, 09:13:30 PM »

Um, OK? And what about a rein?
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« Reply #76 on: December 15, 2011, 09:30:36 PM »

or a whip
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« Reply #77 on: December 15, 2011, 09:34:58 PM »

Wow, good comeback for a geezer. Even Vicki laughed.

Switch over to email for a  minute and answer my email about Sunday
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« Reply #78 on: December 16, 2011, 08:03:31 AM »

Saturday?
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