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Author Topic: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook  (Read 21898 times)
The Big
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« on: November 16, 2007, 02:35:41 PM »

A place for the author to “change” the book retroactively. Not a place to argue.
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mynameismud
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« Reply #1 on: November 16, 2007, 05:42:14 PM »

What? no argueing.  Ban it!
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Brad Young
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« Reply #2 on: November 28, 2007, 09:15:46 AM »

5. Correction, Page 202 (topo): As stated in the description, Flatiron - Original Route is two (short) pitches. All three of the Flatiron "Apron" routes are one pitch climbs that end at Original Route's first pitch, two bolt anchor . Appropriate route numbers are not on the topo, but they should be. These numbers should be at the two bolt anchor which in on the upper part of the topo (It is directly above where the word "easy" appears at two places).
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Brad Young
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« Reply #3 on: December 05, 2007, 08:51:00 PM »

6. Correction, Page 362 (route 363.5, "Ola Verde"): Ola Verde does not have a bolt anchor on top. Also it is not  an "R" rated route. By way of further description: The cliff this route is on is 100 yards south of the Valle de Baile, on top of Pedras Bonitas Cliff. It faces north. The face has several streaks and is split by one chimney.  Ola Verde is in a shallow grey water steak with black streaks on either side, about in the center of the cliff, to the right of the chimney. The first bolt is obvious. The second bolt is in plain sight 22 feet off the ground, but is so well camoflaged that it is invisible. After 25 feet the climbing becomes easy. after 35 feet it is class three. Continue 80 feet more to the top of the ridge. Sit on the other side of it to belay.
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Brad Young
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« Reply #4 on: December 09, 2007, 09:54:02 PM »

7. Clarification, Page 118 (route 286, "In the Soup"): There are two short, scruffy cliffs that sit above and "behind" Shoot the Tube. One such cliff is behind, but off to the right, maybe 50 feet away. This is not the cliff on which In the Soup is located. In the Soup is located on a short tier of cliffs which is directly back from the top of Shoot the Tube. This tier is about 90 feet away (to the west), and slightly downhill. Two short cracks are on this cliff. The left crack is very thin and dirty and covered with pine needles. In the Soup is the other crack, the one on the right, starting with a short chimney-like section. Good pro and decent rock. Also, it's probably 5.7, not 5.8.
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Brad Young
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« Reply #5 on: December 10, 2007, 01:18:42 PM »

8. Correction, Page 363 (route 520.2, "Excemental Pinnacle"): This route does not exist. More specifically, this route and route 520.4, Seldom Seen Pinnacle - East Face are one and the same. I confirmed this by going to the area with one of the "Excremental Pinnacle" first ascentionists. This person immediately recognized "their" route, which is the exact same climb "found" by Glen Denny and Gary Coliver when they did the West Face route on Seldom Seen in 1974. Since the formation was named "Seldom Seen" in 1974 and "Excremental Pinnacle" in 1991, the name should remain Seldom Seen. The author's efforts in trying to find this pinnacle well illustrate how easily confusion arises about such things. Both routes were reported late last season, as the book was nearing completion, and after the raptor closures made the area off limits. Two sets of old notes and three people's recollection, all communicated to another person (the author) and then interpretted by him resulted in amazing differences (sounds a little like the children's game "Telephone").

9. Correction, Page 363 (route 509.6, "Long's Folly - Leftover"): The current description is correct up into the obvious chimney. However, once into the chimney, do not move up and left on the obvious ramp. Instead, continue (walking) in the chimney to where the ground is at its highest point within the chimney itself. From there stem up between Long's Folly and Leftover. Halfway up this stemming section a slot/hole on Leftover accepts a good 2 1/2 inch cam or stopper. Continue to the top. By way of further information: the route crux is getting past the bolt and it is very reach dependant. Also, at a flat spot near the top, there is a second, hard to see bolt which can be used for a belay. It is just right of a shallow hole, at the base of a slab which leads 15 feet farther to the summit. This bolt is not positioned for rappel, but a slight low point on the formation's southeast shoulder allows a safe, two rope "Pinnacles rappel."

10. Correction, Page 363 (route 509.5, "East - Center Pinnacle"): This pinnacle, which is climbed after ascending Leftover, is north - northwest, not west of the summit of Leftover. Traverse over to this "pinnacle," fourth class, from a shoulder of Leftover (a level area just below its summit) around Leftover's east side.
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Brad Young
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« Reply #6 on: December 16, 2007, 01:34:04 PM »

I edited corrections 8 and 9 today to reflect new information.
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #7 on: January 26, 2008, 11:57:41 PM »

213 is an independent line from 214
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Brad Young
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« Reply #8 on: March 03, 2008, 11:07:52 AM »

11. Clarification, Page 362 (route 448.2, "Lightning Bolt Crack - Original Finish"): After climbing the route and further exploring poor memories about what they did with Jack H, and Keith V, I am now certain that this original finish is one more pitch to the top of this distinct formation only (and not to the top of The Hippopotamus, which is several tiers of rock behind this). Therefore, a better description is: From the bolt anchor at the top of the actual Lightning Bolt Crack move right behind a flake and then along a brushy ledge for about 90 feet. Where the ledge rejoins the ground, climb up and left, around a bit of a corner. Climb along a mossy face next to an up-and-left dihedral with a crack (good medium and large cams here). Twenty feet up is a low angle stance. Tie off a tiny tree. Continue up and left on an obvious, fairly clean, easy slab. One good four inch cam in a hole protects this slab. Finish on the low angle arete which makes up the last 20 feet of the bolted second pitch face of the "regular" Lightning Bolt Crack route. Although the first ascentionists likely wrapped the rope around a small pinnacle to rap off the back side, since both variants now end at the modern two bolt anchor, it is easier to rappel off the front to the top of the first pitch. The first pitch (the Lightning Bolt Crack) is 5.8. The original second pitch is 5.6 R.

Although the "regular" Lightning Bolt Crack route is OK, this original finish is very chossy and should probably only be done by the most fanatic fans of obscure Pinnacles routes.
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Brad Young
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« Reply #9 on: May 03, 2008, 06:21:42 PM »

12. Clarification, Page 363 (route 840.2, "Ethical Divide"): Start the chimney climbing near where the ground is highest (the west side of the chimney). Climb 5.5, up and gradually toward the east, using cams from one to four inches in holes. At the top of the chimney a bolt protects moves onto the shoulder of Ethical Pinnacle. Finish on "No Hooks, No Raps...." (The finish is probably only 5.7, making Ethical Divide 5.7, not 5.8.)
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F4?
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« Reply #10 on: May 04, 2008, 10:28:03 AM »

When is the 2nd Edition coming out?
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squiddo
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« Reply #11 on: May 04, 2008, 11:17:28 AM »

F4, the day after tomorrow Roll Eyes.
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Brad Young
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« Reply #12 on: November 11, 2008, 10:05:45 AM »

13. Correction, Page 137 (route 337, "South Side Shuffle"): This route ends on a high point just north of The Frog's highest point. The formation high point isn't accessible by class two (the highest point is the part of the formation that looks like a frog from the north, that is, from on the approach). The farther-north high point where South Side Shuffle ends is a "gathering spot" where walk offs from almost all Frog routes join before moving down this route to the ground. For some forgotten reason, there are two old bolts here.
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Brad Young
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« Reply #13 on: February 10, 2009, 06:47:44 AM »

14. Correction, Pages 259 and 260 (route 637, "Lonesome Bolt"): This route is rated 5.6 R in the book. The crux is actually 5.8. Also, the crux is high enough above the one bolt that a fall there could result in decking from 25 feet up, onto a terrible landing. None of the knobs will accept slings. So, Lonesome bolt is 5.8 X.
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Brad Young
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« Reply #14 on: March 24, 2009, 08:49:53 PM »

15. Correction, Pages 178 and 179 (route 449, "Tom Turkey"): This route is solid 5.7, not 5.4. Also, it is more of a chimney than it is a stemming problem. The current description resulted from the two different ways the first ascentionists climbed the route. Bring cams from four inches and up.
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Brad Young
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« Reply #15 on: November 03, 2009, 07:50:09 AM »

16.  Correction, Page 266 (text regarding "Berserker Route"):  At the end of Berserker Route it is easier to use the top anchor for Costanoan than it is to build a gear anchor.
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Hardman
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« Reply #16 on: November 03, 2009, 01:06:53 PM »

Hey Brad,
I haven't seen the new book and am now living in the southeast so probably won't be buying it but here are a couple of errors I noticed in the last one.
1) Fat Lips on Discovery Wall was put up by Jeffrey Dopp and John McCoy in '94 and was originally called "Labor of Love". I have no idea where the name Fat Lips came from.

2) The roof next to Portent that bears the name "Labor of Love" was put up by us as well but we called it "Passover" because we put it up on Passover Sunday '94 and you often pass over the crowd at the base.
Perhaps they can go in the next printing.

Thanks Brad!
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"Where's da rocks man"
Brad Young
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« Reply #17 on: November 03, 2009, 01:47:36 PM »

Clint and I worked on this misnaming issue, and apparently, got it half right. The route just left of The Big Pucker is, in the new book, called "Labor of Love," which, from your post is correct (if I'm reading your post correctly, you're using the name "Fat Lip" for this route which was misapplied to it in David's book). And the FA appendix in the new book indicates the prior mislabeling to help aleviate confusion.

BTW, the new book has John and Jeff on the FA of Labor of Love, but also includes Eric Brand. Guessing that you must be Eric?

The route next to Portent, over the roof, is called Fat Lip in the new book and the FA appendix states unknown. Neither Clint nor I had ever heard the name "Passover," so that's the half we got wrong. And we had no info about who did the FA, so that's listed as "unknown" in the new book. I'll make notes for the "next" edition (next in quotes because I can't even imagine doing another edition - but let's see what the years bring).
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Hardman
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« Reply #18 on: November 03, 2009, 08:00:04 PM »

Lol...yeah I'm sure it took a ton of effort on your part to do this and is truly a labor of love! I am grateful to you and anyone that undertakes this grand challenge as it benefits us all...Thank You!!!

The Passover name may never have gotten relayed to the appropriate people as we weren't particularly proud of the route...just something fun we did one weekend. I think someone once called it contrived, which I can understand I guess...we were just having fun. We did Labor of Love and Passover around the same time and our attention (obsession) was quickly being drawn to Cuidado.

I am Jeff Dopp. Eric Brand who was a great friend and exceptional climber with big routes from El Cap, Leaning Tower, Patagonia and the Himalayas to his credit died a couple of years ago of a heart attack in his kitchen in southern New Mexico. He wasn't involved with Labor of Love. We met in Marin county at Split Rock in the late eighties and spend many a fine day at the Pinns.

If the name Fat Lip sticks, so be it, but I just thought you may want to know the real history. We really liked the Labor of Love climb though and thought that it was the true line of where Big Pucker should go if you followed the "features".

Again Brad, Thanks for all the work you've put into the guide and your attempts to keep accurate updates.

Nice Job!
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Brad Young
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« Reply #19 on: November 03, 2009, 08:22:22 PM »

"Eric Brand who was a great friend and exceptional climber with big routes from El Cap, Leaning Tower, Patagonia and the Himalayas to his credit died a couple of years ago of a heart attack in his kitchen in southern New Mexico."

Oh, god, that's right. I had heard that he died and totally forgot. I met Eric once at Discovery Wall. I remember my overriding "take-away" was that, if the Alex Lowe theorem about "the best climber" was true, Eric surely fit the mold ("the best climber is the one having the most fun").

My book does call Passover (in the book, Fat Lip), "contrived," but I've climbed it. I'll correct the FA on Labor of Love (in addition to the other changes I've noted) for any future edition. Thanks Jeff for your kind comments about the "labor of love."
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