Author Topic: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook  (Read 27373 times)

mungeclimber

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #20 on: November 03, 2009, 08:41:14 PM »
I just want to throw out some big thx to the admins of this site for having a place that allows for the Jeff and others to bring to life the history of a truly historical climbing location.  Unearthing history is an archealogical dig metaphor. Unearthing the layers section by section.

very cool guys


Big ups to the Muds!

On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Jeffrey Dopp

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #21 on: November 03, 2009, 08:53:13 PM »

Oh, god, that's right. I had heard that he died and totally forgot. I met Eric once at Discovery Wall. I remember my overriding "take-away" was that, if the alex Lowe theorem about "the best climber" was true, Eric surely fit the mold ("the best climber is the one having the most fun").


Yeah you nailed it! Eric was never the best free climber or fastest, or whatever but he LIVED for climbing. He had more stamina than anyone I've ever climbed with. He always left me in the dust on approaches and was always prepared for the long haul.

He was a super kind and loyal friend that would give the puff-ball jacket off his back if you needed it. He was doing R&D for Marmot the winter we did Cuidado and would show up with, not only a big box of 5 piece Rawl drive bolts, but his Volvo wagon was full of cool Marmot gear we could "try-out" on those cold windy, icy and sometimes snowy belays.

He was a climber to the bone and is sorely missed by many.
"Where's da rocks man"

mungeclimber

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #22 on: November 09, 2009, 01:29:20 PM »
Route 412 - update to First Ascent Info:  FA David S. Wilson and Dylan Williams  ~1984


edit - BY asked me for source of this info so updating this post... I am the source. I talked to one of the FA party members.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #23 on: April 14, 2010, 08:08:13 PM »
17. Correction, page 320 (route 792, "The Arch - Up the Center"): This route does not start "...well to the right." Although I inspected the route before putting it in the book, I focused on the end of the climbing and the bolt up high. Although I stood at the base of the route several times, I missed a fixed piton in a small corner on the main face below the seam/crack (it is very rusty and not so easy to see). I finally spotted this pin, and, upon closer inspection also found a bolt hole (without anything in it though) about four feet below it. There is also definitely one more "empty" hole above the fixed pin and maybe two more holes. The first ascent party clearly climbed the face below the crack/seam using free moves to a large hook placement to a bolt (later removed?) to a pin to one or two more bolts (now also holes). This leads directly to the start of the seam/crack.

Brad Young

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #24 on: February 10, 2011, 11:45:17 AM »
18.  Correction, page 229 (route 570, “Freedom Dome - Regular Route”):  The topo shows rappelling off to the right, 125 feet to the ground.  It is better (and easy) to rappel 95 feet to the ground, slightly left, directly to the base of Regular Route.

F4?

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #25 on: February 10, 2011, 12:01:49 PM »
Quote
18.  Correction, page 229 (route 570, “Freedom Dome - Regular Route”):  The topo shows rappelling off to the right, 125 feet to the ground.  It is better (and easy) to rappel 95 feet to the ground, slightly left, directly to the base of Regular Route.

Now that explains why Squiddo was having trouble getting off Freedom dome.
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mungeclimber

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #26 on: March 28, 2011, 09:31:01 AM »
For consideration:

Dionysian Tower should receive an X or R rating.

Left Toe: route can be creatively protected by climbing the Right Toe, bring partner up then with just enough slack do a big stem and commit to the Left Toe (better protection than the leeper hanger and star dryv down low). Both toes are fairly clean lines.  Anchor condition on Left Toe is one Leeper Hanger and star dryv. Needs updating, but isn't too bad. Feels solid for what it is.

Anchor condition on Right Toe was an allen head 3/8" in a sleeve, sticking out half an inch, with a very thin aluminum hanger, tat and crappy ring. Forgot to cut the tat before we left, but we did beef up that anchor with a SS 2.25" Powers sleeve anchor in good rock with screw gate and ring. Unfortunately it needs paint to make it low profile visually. Hoping to get back up soon and minimize the visual.

 

On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mungeclimber

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #27 on: July 30, 2011, 12:43:54 PM »
For investigation:

Talked to Greg Schaffer this weekend. Got a chance to look at his guidebooks. Greg is a couple years older than me. he has a copy of the Roper guidebook, and in it are his personal notes.  One of which is the FA info for a route in the Hanging Valley.  He thought it was mislabelled in the current book, so for history's sake, here is what I copied out...

"The Prod 5.6 FA Sept 14, 1968. Greg and Jeff Schaffer. Bottom of valley [hanging valley]. 30' high pinnacle."

something about leeper on stud useful
something about ending or leaning and kaspareks
bolt placed on top on FA.

Brad, I'll get you Greg's email if you like to confirm up with him what it really says and his recollections.

Thx Holo for hooking us up with Greg.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #28 on: July 31, 2011, 05:47:15 AM »
Not sure whether this comes within the category "corrections," or is it an additional route that has never been documented, or maybe "one of the above, not enough information?"

Although it's so hot I can't bear to think of Pinnacles (I'm sitting in shorts, a little too warm, at 6:00 A.M.), I'd really enjoy communication with Greg about this. Maybe even go out there with him and check it out. Does he still live in this area?

mungeclimber

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #29 on: July 31, 2011, 09:22:32 AM »
yep he's still in the bay area. I'll send that over. Greg thought it was a 'correction' type thing.
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F4?

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #30 on: July 31, 2011, 04:01:01 PM »
Pinns this time of year is nice if you go in the evening...:)
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mungeclimber

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #31 on: November 26, 2011, 10:36:44 PM »
Recommend changing the rating on "Ridge Rock - South Ridge" from 5.3 to something harder (assuming the route tops the summit of the furthest north rock). The move from the bolts to the last formation are harder than 5.3. I backed off after inspection of the holds.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #32 on: December 12, 2011, 04:00:56 PM »
Two new corrections based on input over the last three seasons and on my personal observations:

19.  Correction, page 291 (route 722, “The Powers That Be”):  Several experienced parties who have climbed this route in the last three years have felt that this is worth one, not two stars.

20.  Correction, page 127 (route 312, “Ridge Rock - South Ridge”):  Consensus is that the moves onto the summit are significantly harder than 5.3 (especially considering these moves serious exposure); a better rating would be 5.5 (at least).

mynameismud

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #33 on: December 12, 2011, 04:32:33 PM »
A bit surprised by this.  I always thought The Powers that Be and No Sense of Measure were awesome routes.  Steep, full pitch, great location and fun moves.
Is No Sense of Measure still two stars?

19.  Correction, page 291 (route 722, “The Powers That Be”):  Several experienced parties who have climbed this route in the last three years have felt that this is worth one, not two stars.

Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #34 on: December 12, 2011, 05:01:45 PM »
I tend to agree that both routes are two star routes. But The Powers That Be seems to be a little looser. In the last two years I've gotten strong comments from two parties whose experience and views I very much respect (and who you know too, Mud):

1. Last season Jerry D (photographer) and his friends Chuck and Eric (or his friend Curt, I can't recall which) did the route. Of them, neither Jerry nor Chuck have a lot of Pinns experience, but the third partner did. They were adamant that the route stunk, that it was loose everywhere and not worth any stars. I disagreed and, in the back of my mind, I put their comments down to lack of love for and experience with Pinnacles. But I know all three of them and I've especially climbed a bunch with Jerry. They're too experienced to just discard their thoughts.

2. On the first weekend of this month, Alan and Tonya did the route. Alan is pretty much a master of mud by this point (clear down to having in his collection at home a chalked up Pinnacles hold that blew off while he was using it). Tonya's pretty damn good too. Their initial comments were very much along the lines of what Jerry and his friends said, although less vehement. They thought one star.

I ran this all by Jim, and he could see maybe one star. I think you and I and Jim, and our type may be dying out at Pinns. Does anyone climb any unstarred routes there anymore? Does anyone climb anything that involves adventure anymore? Sigh.

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #35 on: December 12, 2011, 06:36:06 PM »
Heavens gate!!!! It needs a star.

The issue maybe the rock quality to the spacing of the bolts. Not that I'm complaining, just an observation as to the lack of traffic. Now with more traffic, maybe the routes would clean up??

So folks get on peregrine and give the route some love.
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mynameismud

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #36 on: December 12, 2011, 06:47:04 PM »
ok, thank you for the feedback.  I disagree but understand.  They have loose rock and the bolts are spaced a bit.  The 2nd pitches are full value 5.10.
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Gavin

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #37 on: December 13, 2011, 07:39:53 AM »
Interesting reading about The Powers That Be... I'd definitely still like to tackle this route in the near future and see for myself.

Brad, in regards to your statement about "unstarred routes" and "anything that involves adventure" - Joe and I didn't see you on Sunday because we went to the north side of Balconies and did Echoes, followed by the first two pitches of Nexus, then finishing with Sexus (because we coudln't find any bolts on the first half of the last Nexus pitch). I think that should satisfy the "unstarred" and "adventure" requirements! We were both wondering when the last party had been there to climb those routes.

Nexus was awesome, despite some loose rock... I would have onsighted the first pitch if not for a knob that busted off in my left hand. The sustained 5.10 moves followed by 5.11a stemming were lots of fun. Echoes and Sexus were loose... Joe and I kept yelling out "adventure climbing!" as well as some more crass swearing.

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #38 on: December 13, 2011, 08:11:22 AM »
Ahh, Echoes, another Jim Mc Route.

I hope the holds were sufficiently brushed for you. Jim followed me up it and kept stopping to clean his route.

It too needs some love.

Any pictures to share of Nexus? That route looks so cool.
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Brad Young

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #39 on: December 13, 2011, 08:32:09 AM »
Gavin yes, it's true that I was exaggerating. A few people get out on the less traveled routes. And maybe it's about the same number that it has always been. It doesn't seem that way though.

Nexus is impressive. Other than me and Rob and Dennis I know Jack Holmgren and Jim McConachie have been on that one. I don't know of anyone else that's ever tried it. You've led Conduit not once, but twice in one season. And Mudmittens and Joe did it too. Joe is especially funny about "off the beaten path" routes. He complains loudly about their quality... and then heads off right away to do another.