Author Topic: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook  (Read 27367 times)

mynameismud

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #40 on: December 13, 2011, 09:52:00 AM »
When I lead the upper pitches of Nexus I found one of the bolts accidently While brushing off moss when I was trying to find a hold.

Was the bottle opening still there?
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Brad Young

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #41 on: December 13, 2011, 10:09:19 AM »
"Was the bottle opening still there?"

Are you going from memory? Joe posted a photo of the bottle opener bolted to the rock on Nexus, but he posted on the wrong forum (somehow he put it on Supertopo forum). I have no memory of a bottle opener bolted to the rock, but there it is in the photo. You do remember it?

mynameismud

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #42 on: December 13, 2011, 10:22:40 AM »
Yes, I was going from memory.  Have not seen the pics.

"Was the bottle opening still there?"

Are you going from memory? Joe posted a photo of the bottle opener bolted to the rock on Nexus, but he posted on the wrong forum (somehow he put it on Supertopo forum). I have no memory of a bottle opener bolted to the rock, but there it is in the photo. You do remember it?
Here's to sweat in your eye

F4?

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #43 on: December 13, 2011, 11:31:50 AM »
shall we start a new thread on the balconies?

Pictures would be nice
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squiddo

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #44 on: December 13, 2011, 11:37:24 AM »

 Joe is especially funny about "off the beaten path" routes. He complains loudly about their quality... and then heads off right away to do another.

Ha, this is a fair statement. Its a sickness many of us share.
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WannabeMistress

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #45 on: December 13, 2011, 01:03:38 PM »
Just my two cents on the Powers That Be...  it definitely has fun moves.  The second tough spot up high at the bulge above the mini mantle comes as a fun surprise.  However, the route is really is crumbly.  Really crumbly! 

Alan figured out a new sequence that keeps the rating between the 1st and 2nd bolt at 11b but the moves are now off left of the bolts instead of under and slightly right as the old holds have all broken off.

For two stars, I figure the route should have some decent rock on it and a little longevity.  The belayer definitely needs a helmet on this route!

Maybe this is why I am "WannabeMistress".  A true Mistress of Mud would revel in the crumbles!!

F4?

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #46 on: December 13, 2011, 01:23:23 PM »
A new member posting? Shocking!

Edit: Come on this isn't Micky's beach. The rock isn't always perfect, just enough to get by.
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mynameismud

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #47 on: December 13, 2011, 01:34:39 PM »
I just love the login id...  WannabeMisstress

Welcome to the forum, even if you down rate one of my favorite climbs.

I suppose that arguement makes sense.  a two star route should have some good rock.  Did you do the second pitch?  If so how did you like it?
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Brad Young

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #48 on: December 13, 2011, 01:36:06 PM »
Nice first post.

And, Factor, you know her; might even have climbed with her.

squiddo

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #49 on: December 13, 2011, 01:45:59 PM »
Nice first post.

And, Factor, you know her; might even have climbed with her.

Tonya?
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joe

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #50 on: December 13, 2011, 02:31:57 PM »
not sure how to insert a quote here, but to your assessment Brad, I agree...

but once again, especially on Sexus where you're making serious moves on moss and dirt dozens of feet above your last bolt, which isn't really a bolt and may have been installed some time in the 18th century, I find myself questioning, what the f am I doing? on run out Tuolumne face climbs, at least you're standing on, smearing on rock...but it's hard to pretend that stuff is rock especially when covered in a forest of moss...

I have a few pix, but it's easier to put them on FB or the taco since you can upload them directly to the forum rather than the multi-stage process required here...I'll post some links...

squiddo

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #51 on: December 13, 2011, 02:33:51 PM »


but once again, especially on Sexus where you're making serious moves on moss and dirt dozens of feet above your last bolt, which isn't really a bolt and may have been installed some time in the 18th century, I find myself questioning, what the f am I doing? on run out Tuolumne face climbs, at least you're standing on, smearing on rock...but it's hard to pretend that stuff is rock especially when covered in a forest of moss...
 

Ha, also had this experience in Yosemite on bad rock. Its not even close to what you can have at the pinns!
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Brad Young

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #52 on: December 13, 2011, 02:42:29 PM »

but once again, especially on Sexus where you're making serious moves on moss and dirt dozens of feet above your last bolt, which isn't really a bolt and may have been installed some time in the 18th century, I find myself questioning, what the f am I doing? on run out Tuolumne face climbs, at least you're standing on, smearing on rock...but it's hard to pretend that stuff is rock especially when covered in a forest of moss...


Now that's one of the great Pinnacles quotes  :)

Adventure it is. Or we could just all go bowling?

Gavin

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #53 on: December 13, 2011, 08:49:25 PM »
Yeah, the can opener hanger on the belay station for the second pitch of Nexus was hilarious... And it said "Disneyland" on it.

Interesting to hear the short list of folks that have been on Nexus... That first pitch is pretty sweet. It looks rather intimidating from the base, but the 5.10 moves are fun, heady... and the 5.11 moves are awesome. The thin stemming alone is worth the effort. Rapping down the top pitch of Nexus, I only saw two bolts near the top water chute section, literally hidden in moss growing over them!

I'm definitely up for more Balconies routes this next weekend (I'll be in Zion National Park with family the X-Mas week)... I'm hoping to coax Alacia into joining me for an ascent of the Back Nine on Sunday at least, but should be around on Saturday and Monday as well...


F4?

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #55 on: December 14, 2011, 01:48:57 PM »
that rock looks sweet.
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Atomizer

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #56 on: December 15, 2011, 09:37:39 AM »
This is getting just as much off topic as a supertaco thread.

mynameismud

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #57 on: December 15, 2011, 09:44:38 AM »
Not that far yet.  No politics.
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squiddo

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #58 on: December 15, 2011, 09:51:47 AM »
Not that far yet.  No politics.

There is now
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Brad Young

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #59 on: December 15, 2011, 10:21:41 AM »
Not that far yet.  No politics.

Obviously you're an ignorant far right wing extremist.