More beta

[joe]

Thanks to Brad, I'm now excited about seeking out starred routes I've never done.  Leaning toward the High Peaks this Wednesday.  A couple of questions:

Condor Condiment:  looks like you can get away with one rope if you rap off the south side.  True or false?
Chocolate Face:  Am I reading it right, there is no pro on the route at all? solo?
Feather Canyon: Better to approach from visitor's center parking, not upper lot?  worth doing? Best to avoid leaving a pack at the base?

Finally, perhaps most importantly, I have the beta on the best place to eat (in Watsonville) if you're heading back toward Santa Cruz.  But what if you're heading into the bay area?  Where do you eat and why?

[F4?]

Condor Condiment:  looks like you can get away with one rope if you rap off the south side.  True or false?

Here is my $.02 for what's it's worth....
True, but watch out. Jack did an amazing job continuing this route to the top and liked to use natural gear when possible. I led the 3rd pitch and it's easy, but more mental as you use natural gear. Bring tri-cams. I didn't have any and wished I had a few on that pitch. The more traffic the route sees, the better it will get.

[mynameismud]

Chocolate face, I thought that had one piece.  It is more of a boulder problem than anything.  After the crux the climbing gets easier.

Feather Canyon is worth doing.  Best not to leave a pack.  Approach via the Visitor Center.

[Brad Young]

1. One rope off the east side from the summit (that is, descend the normal way to the trail);

2. Chocolate Face: no pro, but getting easier every move. Mr Mud's thinking of the 5.7 to the right which used to have two fixed pins (at least I think that's what he's thinking about);

3. Feather Canyon is one of my personal favorites. No further comments, you figure it out. However you do it, I'm sure it'll be fun.

[mynameismud]

Here are a few routes that I think are worth checking out if ya want to get away a bit.  Well a few get a fair amount of traffic.  But this list can at least keep you busy and get you around the park a bit.
Nexus, kinda cool.  the last pitch is always dirty but solid.
If We Bolt it They Will Come, long with good variety.  Once it starts raining it can be difficult to find a good dry spell to get this in before the closures.
Shake and Bake, Lava Falls, Conduit to the Cosmos, Balconies Regular Route, Stilleto.  Do this If We Bolt It and Nexus in a day and ya have some bagging rights.
Oh, Don't forget Powers that Be, No Sense of Measure and Electric Blue.
Resurrection Wall, 5.9 will get your attention.  Either finish is good in it's own way.
Sunnyside Up, thelast pitch is good.  It is possible to rap in and TR this.
Power Tools, an easy 11a while in the area do Mission Impossible.
Heretic, short but sweet, Asleep at the Wheel and Wrinkle Remover
Shaft, a bit loose but a cool climb.
Hippo Stomp
Assault and Battery
Love Line, I have heard a lot of good about this route.
Bullrun 5.10b and North Yak - NW Face 5.10a
Shoot the Tube, Split Infinity For the Yaks wall these are must do's.
Hatchet
here is a link to my top ten lists.  (Well now that I look at them I think my tastes have changed.)
http://www.mudncrud.com/about/him/pinnacles.html

[mungeclimber]

Thanks to Brad, I'm now excited about seeking out starred routes I've never done.  Leaning toward the High Peaks this Wednesday.  A couple of questions:

Condor Condiment:  looks like you can get away with one rope if you rap off the south side.  True or false? [can't remember]
Chocolate Face:  Am I reading it right, there is no pro on the route at all? solo? [yes, i believe so]
Feather Canyon: Better to approach from visitor's center parking, not upper lot?  worth doing? Best to avoid leaving a pack at the base? [yes, don't leave pack at base and yes, approach from main lot on east side]

Finally, perhaps most importantly, I have the beta on the best place to eat (in Watsonville) if you're heading back toward Santa Cruz.  But what if you're heading into the bay area?  Where do you eat and why?  [Supertaqueria in Salinas, or Morgan Hill- oh yesh it's good. Don't let the nay sayers fool you.]

[joe]

Thanks to one and all.  Very helpful.  Impressive list Erik!  I've done some of your list, but much more to look forward to. 
I'm going to give some options to my partner Wednesday and see what he picks.
How about food in Hollister?  Never know where to go there when heading out that way.
Anyone?

[F4?]

How about food in Hollister?  Never know where to go there when heading out that way.

Anyplace other than Supertaqueria....can't remember the names.

[mungeclimber]

Thanks to one and all.  Very helpful.  Impressive list Erik!  I've done some of your list, but much more to look forward to. 
I'm going to give some options to my partner Wednesday and see what he picks.
How about food in Hollister?  Never know where to go there when heading out that way.
Anyone?

don't listen to the haters.  SUPERTAQUERIA!!!!!

[mudworm]

Hi Joe, I'm guilty  . We would have waited longer in the parking lot if it had been any other climbing trip.  But when Debby and I do a climbing trip, the highlight is always the delicious Chinese dinner afterwards (and that's what we talk about the most during the day and we tend to skip lunch too). We were known to drive all the way back from climbing in Tuolumne to get to eat at a restaurant in Milpitas at 11pm.

So, I won't be able to help with your question about restaurants in Hollister -- why eat there when there are so many good ones in the Bay Area?

[squiddo]

why the hate with Supertaco.....I love that place.

[mynameismud]

 There are a number of good taco joints in Hollister one of them is right next to Rob's favorite puke fest.  If you go to the far end of town there are some small Mexican grocery stores with real Mexican food.  You know the dark mysterious kinda place that Bay Area Yuppies are kinda skeerd to go into.
 On the Main drag through town the taco truck by the liquor store is good and cheap. 
 I can not stand Super Pariah.  I gave up the ghost on that place when doing trips to the Pins with Rob.  Seemed every time we went in there the toilets were over flowing.  The last time I went in there every toilet in the joint was over flowing and people were basically pissing on the floor.  It was disgusting.  If figure why go to some brightly lit plastic chain food joint when there is so much good Mexican food to be had within 3 miles of it.
 If I have to choose between Super Pariah and Taco Hell then I give the nod to Super.  But between Super and and Taco Truck?  I go with the Taco Truck.

[squiddo]

where else was I supposed to go:-) You are a strong man Stom....can't do taco trucks.

[F4?]

Screw it, just drive home.

San JuanB is supposed to have good food as well.

Mr Mud does have a point, thier bathrooms are a bit nasty. But it's cheap!

[joe]

I love it!  why debate ratings and stars when the real issue is food.  Jardines in San Juan B is best on a Friday night with the fish special.  the killer place is in watsonville though, like no Mexican you've had before. 
Thanks for the great recommendations and beta on the climbs.  Spectacular in the High Peaks today.  Was glad to do the Shaft on a Wednesday, so there was no wait to get on it.  Sitting on top of Condor Crag S belaying up my buddy, the whole time a condor was sitting on top of North Finger.  How cool is that?  And if you haven't been out to Tuff Dome lately, check out the javelin sticking out of a tree right at the wall at the last bolt on Aliens ate my Buick.  Surprised there was no blood on the end of the sharpened broken tree branch.  Someone is going to get impaled.  Adagio was more fun without the sharp branch.
Thanks again to Brad's handiwork, I'm looking at and getting on things I've never considered before. 

[mungeclimber]

that's kewl stuff Joe.  a new book was long overdue. I wonder if others will follow Joe's path because of it? 

[F4?]

Joe did you try Saint Valintines Day Massacre? Good route. The bolts are old and maybe I'll replace them this year.

[joe]

we did not.  once I hit the ground after the second rap from south condor traverse, I realized we should have also done st. v's from the alcove.  instead we went and climbed tuff and h&l.  bolts were all solid on south traverse.
next time