Author Topic: Two to Go (Read 20528 times)

F4? · « **Reply #20 on:** December 23, 2007, 09:36:28 AM »

Friking A that was shaky! Talk about akward, that was akward. I was not worthy and stood no chance.

Brad Young · « **Reply #21 on:** December 23, 2007, 05:41:47 PM »

Mr Mud, you came out the rear end of a certain species of freshwater fish. You better be willing to go back in January. (Posting this from Jim's iPhone. Pretty easy to use.)

Brad Young · « **Reply #22 on:** December 23, 2007, 05:44:25 PM »

I meant you're a bastard.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #23 on:** December 23, 2007, 10:01:40 PM »

trip reports? photos?

F4? · « **Reply #24 on:** December 24, 2007, 02:00:14 PM »

Quote

photos?

Yah, right, "hey Mr Mud, can you steady that leg for a second, I need to take a picture".

I wasn't about to take a hand off while belaying him, I'm such a stand up guy.

PS Brad you need to bring your eye glasses with you. I found the second broken off bolt 6 inches above the one you replaced.

F4? · « **Reply #25 on:** January 11, 2008, 07:45:40 AM »

So Brad, are going to bring an extra bolt to give that lone belay bolt company? Maybe borrow one of Munges 1/4 button heads?

Brad Young · « **Reply #26 on:** January 11, 2008, 07:56:08 AM »

No way. I don't think there was ever a "second" bolt. I think there was one failed bolt and a replacement. The route was put up in 1976. Look at Gagner's 1983 book. He did the FFA shortly before then. He shows one bolt there. If there were ever two, it would have been then. I doubt there had been more than two ascents by the time that book came out.

I was unwilling to change the basic character of the route when I replaced the one bolt. Although I did replace a 1/4" bolt with a 1/2" bolt, it's still one bolt for one bolt. I'm fairly sure I saw the broken off bolt and reached the same conclusion then. No one but freaks will ever do the route. Leave it alone.

F4? · « **Reply #27 on:** January 11, 2008, 10:40:36 AM »

mungeclimber · « **Reply #28 on:** January 11, 2008, 11:42:01 AM »

Quote from: Brad Young on January 11, 2008, 07:56:08 AM

No way. I don't think there was ever a "second" bolt. I think there was one failed bolt and a replacement. The route was put up in 1976. Look at Gagner's 1983 book. He did the FFA shortly before then. He shows one bolt there. If there were ever two, it would have been then. I doubt there had been more than two ascents by the time that book came out.

I was unwilling to change the basic character of the route when I replaced the one bolt. Although I did replace a 1/4" bolt with a 1/2" bolt, it's still one bolt for one bolt. I'm fairly sure I saw the broken off bolt and reached the same conclusion then. No one but freaks will ever do the route. Leave it alone.

didn't someone we know damn near die on that route because he kept going past that single bolt the first time?

Brad Young · « **Reply #29 on:** January 11, 2008, 11:58:42 AM »

"Dam near die?" Not me, I didn't fall. Ergo I was no where near dieing. Shitting my pants? Obviously. If I'd have fallen? Dead for sure. But, thanks to his royal highness Mr Mud, I got a toprope to keeep my lily white ass intact:)

All this points out why I replaced one bolt with a much better bolt. But I still see no reason to add another there. I'd rather err (if at all) on the side of caution on the issue of bolts at Pinns. And I'm going there tomorrow to lead that pitch, and yes, I'll run it off the one bolt. Please pray for me?

F4? · « **Reply #30 on:** January 11, 2008, 12:06:47 PM »

We will. Too bad it's rained so much and washed off our chalk.

Brad Young · « **Reply #31 on:** January 11, 2008, 12:28:36 PM »

What am I supposed to look for your chalk for? Hell your chalk only means you were as lost as I am. (Anyway, Mr Mud must of told you we both worked it the weekend before he redpointed it, so I'm real comfortable I know the moves.)

mungeclimber · « **Reply #32 on:** January 11, 2008, 01:56:01 PM »

be careful

that's the most i'd ever seen you in the belly of the beast before.

wigged me out and I couldn't even see you. maybe that's why.

Brad Young · « **Reply #33 on:** January 11, 2008, 02:40:17 PM »

"that's the most i'd ever seen you in the belly of the beast before."

Yeah, probably one of the top ten times for me. I'll be OK if the one bolt is a least trustworthy (and it is now).

Brad Young · « **Reply #34 on:** January 13, 2008, 09:23:36 PM »

OK, that went fairly smoothly. Did it on Saturday's first try (did other stuff Sunday). Pretty heady, and I sure ain't ever going back.

Got to thinking about it today. I think I did the last ascent of Herschel Berschel. Mr Mud already did it and now I have. I doubt anyone else will ever do it. Ever. No-one climbs that kind of stuff anymore, which is kinda sad.

joe · « **Reply #35 on:** January 15, 2008, 08:22:26 AM »

so Brad, was that you in white pants on Machete Saturday, party of 3? 2 more at Chockstone. what route? Full Throttle? waited in the parking lot in the dark with extra beer, but never saw you walk out.
yesterday in the high peaks it was gorgeous. once again a condor sitting on top of Longs after swooping by us on Condor Condiment. Then Ranger Scott had a scope on 3 condors perched on the upper balconies. he was tracking 9 of them.

Brad Young · « **Reply #36 on:** January 15, 2008, 09:10:15 AM »

Not me. Saturday I did Herchel Berchel on Resurrection Wall. Got back to parking at 3:00 so we went out to Split Boulder and played around. Got back to parking around 5:00 after watching that party of 3 finish Gary and Phylis Headwall. So I'm not sure how we missed you. Wish we'd connected (sounds like you survived that lightning strike after all?).

Sunday we went to the same general area. At one point 8 condors were perched 100 feet from me with two others soaring above. Started wondering if they were trying to send me a message.

F4? · « **Reply #37 on:** January 15, 2008, 09:34:57 AM »

Hey Joe, how did you like Condor C?

Eric and I worked on another Holmgren "5.9+" route on saturday at Freedom Dome. The thought of pulling the technical crux and having to then move through a complete mossy section wasn't that appealing. Especially with a ramp below.

Damn someone was on Fullthrottle? I wonder of they got the bail biner off of Redline.

squiddo · « **Reply #38 on:** January 15, 2008, 10:04:07 AM »

F4, why do you ask about the biner? Do you need more for your rack

joe · « **Reply #39 on:** January 15, 2008, 12:02:19 PM »

Hey Erik
I guess it wasn't Full Throttle, but Gary and Phyllis.

Loved CC, although it was hard to spot all the bolts. I led it all and missed 1 bolt per pitch. I'm concerned that a pattern of skipping bolts is emerging. Also did Little Javelina and totally agree with your assessment, an excellent route in every way. Perhaps one of the best in the high peaks. Warmed up on Abnur Bear which was looser than I expected.
Saturday I warmed up on No Sense of Measure. Total flash pump. Then repeated Little Big Dog, Indirect. Way heady, done with that. First pitch of Peregrine. Meandering but stellar and finished with Escape from Soledad, which I thought was a sandbag with lots of fractured rock. from the top of Osiris is where I saw other climbers for the first time all day Saturday. No other climbers in the park yesterday.
Thought about retrieving your biner from Hook and Drill for you, but the lack of stars made it unattractive.

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Author Topic: Two to Go (Read 20528 times)