Author Topic: Bolting at Pinns (Read 10539 times)

Uncle Stinky · « **on:** January 07, 2008, 04:59:24 PM »

I know that routes go in ground up and with hand drilling. I have a question as to what types of bolts are being used and what length. Depend on the snow in March, I may a few days to spend at Pinnacles and was thinking of possible trying to put in a route. Jeff

mungeclimber · « **Reply #1 on:** January 07, 2008, 05:15:00 PM »

Straight up baiting the muds people eh. Saying your putting in a route is like pushing a party invite to the whole bay area party scene. You're hosed now. Phone will ring off the hook, people will email you....

let me know if it's not too late to...

joe · « **Reply #2 on:** January 07, 2008, 05:29:12 PM »

Rather than putting up a new route. Why not just add bolts to existing routes? No one will mind and there are quite a few that could use some work.

Brad Young · « **Reply #3 on:** January 07, 2008, 06:00:56 PM »

I'm very sorry to announce to this site that Joe died suddenly and unexpectedly a few moments ago. Seems like there was some freak electrical storm. Shortly after that last post he was sitting at his computer when he was struck by lightning. We'll miss him.

F4? · « **Reply #4 on:** January 07, 2008, 06:49:02 PM »

Quote

was thinking of possible trying to put in a route. Jeff

The bolt legth depends on the particular formation (rock quality varies)

PS It's best to establish from the top down.

karl · « **Reply #5 on:** January 07, 2008, 06:51:13 PM »

Quote from: F4? on January 07, 2008, 06:49:02 PM

The bolt length depends on the particular formation (rock quality varies)

I thought the length was dependent on genetics.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #6 on:** January 07, 2008, 07:12:57 PM »

Quote from: F4? on January 07, 2008, 06:49:02 PM

The bolt legth depends on the particular formation (rock quality varies)

PS It's best to establish from the top down.

lies and slander

traverses only are permitted

Uncle Stinky · « **Reply #7 on:** January 07, 2008, 07:58:49 PM »

I know, I'll take the Bosch and rap and add some bolts to some of those runout 5.2 lines. However I still think doing virgin route on stance is better, what position should I use? What type of harness? Is width more important than length for the bolts or is the thrusting and hammering of the drill that makes the hole tighter, firmer and dare I say, more inviting, for the final insertion of the bolt, how does moisture play into this situation, is lubrication needed when the bolt is finally pushed in to the hilt and set!!!! OH!!!!!!

mynameismud · « **Reply #8 on:** January 07, 2008, 08:41:53 PM »

Virgin, harness, stance, depth, width, moisture?
I'm interested....
Let me see if I can get free.

squiddo · « **Reply #9 on:** January 08, 2008, 08:42:16 AM »

I know....for a second I thought I was on a different site. but wait, they canceled my "membership".

mynameismud · « **Reply #10 on:** January 08, 2008, 09:09:25 AM »

Had a great night of sleep since I had permission to dream of women.

The Big · « **Reply #11 on:** January 08, 2008, 09:50:23 AM »

hmmphmm... (That's throat-clearing.)

mynameismud · « **Reply #12 on:** January 08, 2008, 10:32:36 AM »

Rhuu Rhoe

Uncle Stinky · « **Reply #13 on:** January 08, 2008, 10:42:51 AM »

Back to the point- do people use 3/8 inch or do you need to use 1/2 inch. Would a Rawl 3/8 X 3 or 3.5 inches work. Do people use Camo hangers? Thanks much

mynameismud · « **Reply #14 on:** January 08, 2008, 10:57:10 AM »

I have heard the extra displacement is not needed.
3/8 by 3 is just fine unless it is quite loose where you are drilling then ya need to go a bit deeper.

F4? · « **Reply #15 on:** January 08, 2008, 11:22:07 AM »

Ideally stainless as well. Unfortunatly the price of stainless steel has doubled in the last year or so.

I currently use 3/8 by 3.5.

1/2 would be nice on well traveled routes, but man, what a hole to drill.

Go and retro carpet cleaner. It needs a few.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #16 on:** January 08, 2008, 04:33:28 PM »

camo hangers are very much used. black for black water streaks, but mottled paint jobs using a black, red and brown, damn near make them invisible so that's probably preferred. Larry Arther had a little technique on how to paint them when they get on the rock without painting the rock itself. quite effective. I've used it once before. You can also use brown nail polish on just the head of the bolt if the hanger itself is prefab camo.

mynameismud · « **Reply #17 on:** January 08, 2008, 05:53:55 PM »

quite often red or black primer works quite well.

F4? · « **Reply #18 on:** January 08, 2008, 07:24:04 PM »

Don't make them too hard to see. I like red with a little black. I do have a mind to start painting them neon green after watching Joe trying to find the bolts on Shake and Bake. Those old Leepers can be murder to find.

squiddo · « **Reply #19 on:** January 09, 2008, 12:30:58 PM »

Those Leepers were next to impossible to find in the Meadows amongst a sea of knobs. If I had a nickel for all the times I was panicking while searching for a bolt...only to discover it 10 down and 15 over.

Does anyone else miss the old Euro colored hangers. Kidding...one of the lamest ideas ever.

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Author Topic: Bolting at Pinns (Read 10539 times)