Supertopo thread...
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=525657&msg=525747#msg525747modified to include actual TR here...
It was dry, well the air and most rock was dry, but the waterstreaks. All wet. But the plus is you get this...
loading a few more pics...
stand by please...
[cue elevator music]
It all starts back in 71, a good year. My year.
Year of the pig.
Skip to 2008, year of the pig, er diet challenge. Taking the day off work. Rain is maddening. Work is beyond ridiculous. Very little climbing has been in 2008. Time for a change.
So I eventually, after 2 Sam Adam's Light, 1 Black Butte Porter, and reviewing many weather forecasts to determine what would be dry I settle on Pinnacles. It's a favorite area for me. Even if it rains, like it's supposed to, I can still hike to the High Peaks and get a work out.
Rain I expected, but I noted that out the passenger window, there is snow on the coastals. WTF?
It's all good. No drops so far. 50% chance of precip I can work with. Forecasts are almost always wrong for pinns. Except that one time with a cat, some old E, and a prehistoric bird. Another story for a different forum.
Before you can get to the West Side (East Side Pinns is a sport ridden, heathen infested cesspool, of imitators; least that's what I tell myself to get me to try new areas out) you have to go thru Soledad.
Soledad, derived from Sol, or Sun, "e" or prouncounced in Spanish as "y" with the suffix 'dad' as "ny"...
Soledad = Sunny
sure, right, fricking marketing department for Soledad really needs to work on it.
so i think they have, note this sign "Feel the Momentum"
and this one...
intermission for sunny rock shot...
New stuff at Pinns, signs signs everywhere the signs...
some like this, where I think it's a self evaluation type sign. It asks the question and you decide. Today, I'm thinking it's safe...
yup, no fire danger, but we're at flood stage cap'n!
NOT A FUCKING SOUL IN THAT LOT.
and I showed up late too. Are we sure this is a national mon?
oh, wait, then there is thing...
for the love of all that is chossy, why?
so first things first, finish my coffee, pack the pack, dump in some of the cleanest bathrooms ever. and reconnoiter the closures...
good Machete is open, tallest formation in the mon. Not that I go to the top mind you. It is supposed to rain today, right?
On the way in, sunny, hrm? "What's that I see? A glint of metal, steel hanger? from here? hrm, forgot to bring paint, have to hit it next time.
"sunlight falling on your steel, death in life is your ideal, life is like a wheel and it's rolling steel [stil?]..." free carabiner to the first person that guesses who sings that song...
My objective is The Dawn Wall, well, at least its poor "son." And only it's first pitch at that. You see, I'm running solo today. The only person I saw was a gov't employee that checks the bathrooms. Unfortunate that he checked after I went. And we had such a good morning chat. Hope he doesn't see me this weekend. doh!
This route checks in a heart wrenching A1. You see why I had to stop at the bathrooms first, right? This shit is skarrrreeee!
Take pics, lollygag a bit, note a newly fallen try by Destiny. 'Brad's' book, just out in print, and already out of date.
Things are dripping, maybe I'm out of luck...
We interrupt this post to bring you a special news bulletin.
Today, outside of Soledad, munge was climbing. It was chossy, with occasional moss and flurries of mud.
Film at eleven.
lollygaging continues...
wet with more wet
ah, and now we get to it, the real crap... the holiest of holys...
Son of Dawn Wall - First pitch A1
Originally put up by Dave Crough and Christian Straight in 1978. A feat of engineering for the first part. Lots of drilling using small bolts...
Today most of the bolts on this thing are actually bomber. So this really does make a good training ladder, with couple exciting moves at the top too. See below.
The first free ascent of the first pitch done by our own Al Swanson. It checks in at 11b. Solid lead if you can do it, I can't, yet... and years of aid ascents have made it pretty clean, really.
So I rally, get the gear on, put some cams on screamers into a nearby pocket or two, connect that to a clove on a bolt with another screamer. Bomber? shit, I don't know, but I should have used the fucking tree to tie off to. duh, dipshit move. learning solo shit as I go here, bear with please.
Get in the groove...
pull up on my speed daisies, and viola I'm up...
fix the dogged draw, adjust my nutz, and I'm up even further.
I mean really, how exciting can an A1 bolt ladder be. Don't say I didn't warn you earlier.
last, the bolt ladder doesn't quite reach the anchor. it's wet, remember, so I bust out a hook or two...
mostly it's just for fun, cuz I could have reached it with one hook. meh
JEEEBUS, what the fuck kind of rebolt job is this?
I rap and clean on the way down. Fun since the route is not a clean fall line. I use a jug to pull myself in on my lead line which is anchored below. clip the lower piece, release the upper with ease, then cut the lower one loose, and I swing into the branches with the rope snagging above me very little on rough edges. WHEEE!! Good times.
I scope out a possible new free line off to the right after I'm down and have cracked my Sapporo Gold. Cruise over to the bouldering overhang since it's actually starting to look like rain now.
Call it day and drive out. Only to be greeted by this.
Not a bad day, I'd say.
oh shit, almost forgot to ask about this...
What in holy hell is this thing?
It's radar dish, tho my pic you can't see the dish part.
But why?
more pinns pics...
lush and
green...
don't these just look awesome!!??
blue sky, I mean
fuck
The following Saturday...
note downed tree at base of "Corona"
