Author Topic: TR: Feb 17, 2008  (Read 10957 times)

mudworm

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TR: Feb 17, 2008
« on: February 17, 2008, 08:38:36 AM »
Okay, I have nothing to report yet except that we are off to a very late start. That's okay, since there is only one route on Mud's agenda. Will report back later...
Inch by inch, I will get there.

F'ueco

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Re: TR: Feb 17, 2008
« Reply #1 on: February 17, 2008, 09:36:16 AM »
All that work clicking on this topic... And nothing!?

I'm off to watch the prologue of the Tour of California.  :)
Live from Boulder, CO...

karl

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Re: TR: Feb 17, 2008
« Reply #2 on: February 17, 2008, 02:53:50 PM »
slackers

mudworm

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Re: TR: Feb 17, 2008
« Reply #3 on: February 17, 2008, 09:18:04 PM »
Mud dragged me out the door shortly after I got started on my "trip report".  It was a lucky day for us because we found parking at the East side Visitor Center even though it was past 11am when we arrived there. We went straight to the Monolith. Mud led Cantalope Death (CD) and ran another lap on it before he got on Yo Mama Stepped Across (YMSA). In between his climbing, I ran laps on CD probably three or four times. Mud made progress on YMSA, but is still a little shy of being able to tick it off.

Here is him warming up his shoulders for YMSA. If you roll your eyes from left to right fast enough, you might be able to get an animation going.



We then both TR'ed Feed the Beast (clean) and moved over and TR'ed P.O.D. It was still early, but we ran into our old friend Charlie and ended up chatting the hours away. It's good to see him out again.

Now, let me rewind a little. This morning, when I opened my rope bag, my jaws dropped.



 :o @$%@$%! What happened to the rope?!!!  Rewind more... Last weekend at the same place, in the afternoon, when we were TR'ing Feed the Beast, two guys came over to watch. I recognized one of them because I met him on Lucky Streaks in Tuolumne a few years ago when he was climbing with a friend of mine and I wrote a trip report with his name and photos in it.  he recognized me right away too (as if I'm famous or something). He looked like a nice guy. So after we were done, Mud offered "Do you guys want to run up this thing? We'll leave our rope up for you." "Yes, sure. That'd nice." I added before we walked away, "We'll be at P.O.D." I remember while we were hanging out with the big group at P.O.D. and doing laps on that climb and Hawaiian Dance, I wondered why the guys had not come over and returned the rope. I actually walked over twice, and both times I heard them still at the base of Feed the Beast. I didn't want to give them any pressure, so I quietly backed away leaving them alone. Eventually at the end of the day, they just left without ever showing up and saying anything (even though we were only a couple hundred feet away). And while we were coming off of our last climb, F4 went over and pulled the rope and wrapped it up. So today it was my first time seeing the rope after they used it. I was shocked!

We had the rope through the anchor -- some beefy mussy hooks. We probably should have had the rope run through biners on top, but neither of us worked the route hard, so we didn't bother.  Yes, that way, the rope rubs against the rock a little right beneath the hooks. But by the look of the rope and the location of the damage, it's obvious that they full on dogged the climb. Not once, not twice, but many times. The rope was probably pulled up tight and then suddenly jerked down many times when the person fell off. That explains why when I checked twice in between our many laps, they were still at the climb.

Since we offered the rope to them, it's not that we will ever go after them for it. Plus, since they never pulled the rope, they probably did not see the extent of the damage to the rope. But on the other hand, for anyone who has been climbing for many years, I would think he has to have some idea how bad it is to have a rope rubbing on the rock back and forth fully weighed.

Oh well, I'm glad that we didn't learn the lesson on the new rope we just bought.  And now we have another gym rope (we cut 40 feet off that bad end).
Inch by inch, I will get there.

mudworm

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Re: TR: Feb 17, 2008
« Reply #4 on: February 17, 2008, 09:21:24 PM »
F'ueco, how was the prologue?

Karl, 2:53pm on Sunday, why were you not climbing? Slacker.  :P
Inch by inch, I will get there.

mynameismud

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Re: TR: Feb 17, 2008
« Reply #5 on: February 17, 2008, 09:33:01 PM »
I almost got through the crux moves of Yo Mama (Step Across).  I could not stick the last move.  At 11d I find it fairly stiff.  Definitely climbed a bit better than last weekend.  Managed to get Feed the Beast on TR, last weekend I could not do the crux moves. POD felt much more manageable.

Mudworm was climbin quite strong.  Making the Beast look farily mellow.

I have to echo Mudworms surprise at seeing the rope.  I know I dogged the Beast last weekend but could not imagine that damage.  It isn't that I was that upset.  Had they said something I probably woule have said just by us a beer.  If it had not worked out then, no worries.  But to see that at a later time just leaves a few question marks.

I am normally very generous about offering people a spin on my rope.  But this experience makes me hesitate a bit.  There was a 10 foot section that had the core exposed not just the short section that you can see in the picture.

Here's ta sweat in your eye
Here's to sweat in your eye

F'ueco

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Re: TR: Feb 17, 2008
« Reply #6 on: February 17, 2008, 11:28:31 PM »
F'ueco, how was the prologue?

Karl, 2:53pm on Sunday, why were you not climbing? Slacker.  :P

 It was fun... Now I need to find my card reader so I can upload some pics!

 I will also get some pics on Wednesday. Hopefully the rain will hold off so I can get up to the top of Mount Hamilton.
Live from Boulder, CO...

F4?

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Re: TR: Feb 17, 2008
« Reply #7 on: February 18, 2008, 09:26:32 AM »
Whatttt? I didn't notice a thing last weekend. But I was pretty tired. I'm truly sorry for not niticing (usually I do). Those guys must not have gotten far on the route.

By the way....did you happen to see a white 1/2 Dome helmet antwhere?? Parking lot? 
Yep, I left it somewhere there. Dang!
I'm not worthy.

mudworm

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Re: TR: Feb 17, 2008
« Reply #8 on: February 18, 2008, 09:39:20 AM »
F4, you wouldn't have suspected, so it's no surprise that you missed it. Thanks for pulling our rope for us and bringing it over.

No, we did not find any helmet, but we were not looking either. Did you call the visitor center yet?
Inch by inch, I will get there.

karl

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Re: TR: Feb 17, 2008
« Reply #9 on: February 18, 2008, 11:06:59 AM »
Karl, 2:53pm on Sunday, why were you not climbing? Slacker.  :P

I agree.  I would have been climbing, but I had to work.  If I wasn't such a slacker, I would have closed the store.

Brad Young

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Re: TR: Feb 17, 2008
« Reply #10 on: February 18, 2008, 08:36:12 PM »
Factor's climbing well. The 5.9 above our A1 bolt ladder is bulgy and intimidating. He did the second lead in good style, knowing that the last bolt in the bolt ladder was suspect (it's now been replaced):






Here he is drilling the third bolt, second pitch:




Here I am drilling the second bolt, second pitch:




Meanwhile, back in camp, my family went hiking with the McConachies. Tricia took a header, wacked her face good (see the scrapes). She's tough though, didn't let it slow her down:




Next morning, in camp, Katie chose to sleep in:




While hiking, our families ran into the Mud's. Always enjoy a good visit. Overall a very good trip.

karl

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Re: TR: Feb 17, 2008
« Reply #11 on: February 18, 2008, 08:40:07 PM »
Where is the route you guys are working on?  Did you complete it?

F4?

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Re: TR: Feb 17, 2008
« Reply #12 on: February 18, 2008, 08:45:48 PM »
Nope, the route isn't finished yet.

The 5.9 was intimidating because you couldn't see the top-out holds until you cleaned them.

I'm not worthy.

Brad Young

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Re: TR: Feb 17, 2008
« Reply #13 on: February 18, 2008, 08:50:32 PM »
Karl, Karl, Karl. You know the rules.... We can't tell, and it's not obvious. We are not yet done, though. And we're slowing down a little. Just getting to the route takes significant time. Now, leading up to the top of the first pitch is adding time. This effort we only got in three new bolts (and a replacement for one that was suspect). All in good rock.

karl

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Re: TR: Feb 17, 2008
« Reply #14 on: February 18, 2008, 08:55:14 PM »
Ok Brad,

I'll just assume that your doing the girdle traverse of the monolith.  Traverse?  Even better a circumnavigation of the monolith.

Brad Young

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Re: TR: Feb 17, 2008
« Reply #15 on: February 18, 2008, 08:57:37 PM »
OK, I'll spill. It's the underneath of The Monolith. Like I said, good rock.

mudworm

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Re: TR: Feb 17, 2008
« Reply #16 on: February 19, 2008, 09:26:41 AM »
Quote from: Brad Young
OK, I'll spill. It's the underneath of The Monolith. Like I said, good rock.

The Monolith? I thought you said "Just getting to the route takes significant time." Oh, right, you hiked in from the West side.

Quote from: Brad Young
While hiking, our families ran into the Mud's. Always enjoy a good visit. Overall a very good trip.

When Vicki, Wendy and the girls walked by the Monolith on their way out from the Reservoir, Mud was right at the high point of his BS'ing with Charlie and company. A few cuss words were uttered. Apologies to the girls.
Inch by inch, I will get there.

Brad Young

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Re: TR: Feb 17, 2008
« Reply #17 on: February 19, 2008, 09:46:05 AM »
Mudworm said: "A few cuss words were uttered. Apologies to the girls. "

Yeah, 'cause we all know that my girls, at least, never hear cuss words around me.

joe

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Re: TR: Feb 17, 2008
« Reply #18 on: February 19, 2008, 10:43:59 AM »
don't understand the frayed rope.  how do you climb on someone's rope and then not even ask if you want it pulled and coiled?  I think I mentioned, every time I walked by those guys, they were hanging on the rope.  I never actually saw them on the rock.
like Erik, it has me wondering whether to be as chill about offering TRs to folks you just meet at the crag.
not only is it just wrong, but totally dangerous.  you could have run another lap or two and that thing would have snapped.

mynameismud

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Re: TR: Feb 17, 2008
« Reply #19 on: February 19, 2008, 10:51:36 AM »
 I suppose that explains the condition of our rope after they used it. 

I never actually saw them on the rock.

Here's to sweat in your eye