Author Topic: New up and coming climber  (Read 5875 times)

Ubergoober

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New up and coming climber
« on: May 13, 2008, 12:02:32 PM »
A little trip report from this Sunday.

I brought Kelly down to the West Side for some casual climbing fun and goodness. Neither one of us has been doing much lately since work has been absolutely horrific for both of us since January and getting back out on the rock felt really good.

The weather was great - a little warm in the sun, but not unbearable. This trip would be the 5th time Kelly has gone out climbing with me (side note: she has never been to a climbing gym). Previous trips, I had her out on the routes on the First Sister, Portent, Destiny (Dos Equis), Passion Play (where she did her first rappel), and Costanoan (where she did her 2nd & 3rd rappels). She also made it up the Grack a few weeks ago with Munge and I. So far, she hasn't fallen on anything (*maybe* a slight weighting of the rope on the Grack, but at the Pinns she's got a perfect record).

Sunday, we hit Chockstone Dome first, where I led the regular route (5.3) in my Chacos and she cruised without even blinking. Then I led the 5.6. Kelly followed with all smiles. Then I led the 5.8. Again, not a smidge of whining from Kelly and she sent it without issue.

"Hmmm...", I thought. "OK, let's push her a little harder" (yes, I quote my own thoughts). I figured the Kibbles & Bits - Rebbecca Sailing link-up would be a good test for her. I was *sure* she would finally fall. I led K&B and anchored on the ledge. Kelly started up. Then a long pause. Then movement. Then a longer pause. "Where did you put your feet?", I hear from below. Ah, here it comes. "Look around", I reply.  More pause. Then...upward movement. She made it to the top - no falling. "Wow, that was hard!" she said. But there had been no whining. No crying. No "Take!". No "I can't do this". WTF?!?! Who the hell does she think she is...sending Pinnacles 5.9s (albeit a "soft" 5.9) on her 5th time ever climbing??!?!?!

OK, so after she caught her breath, up I went up RS. Did the requisite Sylvester Stallone move at the overhang and got to the top. This time I rigged the anchor so I could watch her from above - expecting to see her finally slip or grip out. But alas...again, there was no whining, no complaints. Just smiles...until she got to the overhang. She scoped out the handholds for the direct finish a few times, but she finally said that her arms were too tired and opted for the 5.4 finish. Although not the perfect send, she still had not fallen.

She has now been duly warned that 5.10s are next. :)

Still, I have to admit her attitude and hang time is impressive for a n00b. The addiction is clearly starting to take a hold of her. I'll have her in aiders soon. Bwahahaha!!!!...(this will probably be about the same time she realizes that I'm a totally lame climber and she'll dump me for a real rock jock...C'est l'amour!). 
SCREWD4LYFE!!

salad

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Re: New up and coming climber
« Reply #1 on: May 13, 2008, 12:33:38 PM »
invalid without pics.
eow!

mungeclimber

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Re: New up and coming climber
« Reply #2 on: May 13, 2008, 12:37:15 PM »
werd, pics requisite.

tho still a good TR
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mudworm

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Re: New up and coming climber
« Reply #3 on: May 13, 2008, 02:21:07 PM »
Kelly is a natural!!! With a good attitude too. She is gem.

Don't just keep pushing her on harder grades. The key is get her on fun routes so she wants more!!! Grack, is that the route in Yosemite? Nice.

Third on photo requests.  :D
Inch by inch, I will get there.

joe

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Re: New up and coming climber
« Reply #4 on: May 13, 2008, 02:49:45 PM »
have to agree with worm.  keep it below her limit and fun until she's asking you to step it up a notch.  strengthen the foundation before you test it.
thought you were referring to the k-man when I saw your first post. 

mynameismud

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Re: New up and coming climber
« Reply #5 on: May 13, 2008, 02:51:18 PM »
I say, spank her hard!
Here's ta sweat in your eye
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: New up and coming climber
« Reply #6 on: May 13, 2008, 03:13:49 PM »
figurative meaning, of course...




Seriously though, the chick surfs in ocean infested waters, climbing is easy comparatively.  You have a safety rope, what else could you ask for?
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Ubergoober

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Re: New up and coming climber
« Reply #7 on: May 13, 2008, 03:22:55 PM »
I'll try to post up pix 2nite.
SCREWD4LYFE!!

Ubergoober

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Re: New up and coming climber
« Reply #8 on: May 13, 2008, 03:24:02 PM »
Seriously though, the chick surfs in ocean infested waters

Ocean infested waters? God I hate those!!!  :P
SCREWD4LYFE!!

mungeclimber

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Re: New up and coming climber
« Reply #9 on: May 13, 2008, 04:00:47 PM »
you don't know the half of it

then there are the Seas full of water!

it's a crazy world out there, and we're just posting in it.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge