Cranking away...

[F4?]

Joe's the man!

Not getting denied!




It's all about 10% Inspiration..right?

yes, that's chalk coming off his fingers. No the camera isn't dirty.

[Brad Young]

Joe, how hard did you think 10% Inspiration was? They (Clint and Dennis) rated it 5.10a. Also, Mr Mud did the first lead without the crux bolt there - they added it after the fact.

I've told the story before, but it bears repeating. I led the climb some years ago. Got surprised by how hard it was for 5.10a. I hung first try, and immediately gave it another (successful) go. Mr Mud followed me. As he nears the top of the climb I hear him kinda mumbling. I ask what he's saying. He repeats: "I wish I had some more of that." "Some more of what," I ask. "Some more of whatever the hell I was on when I rated that 5.10a."

[F4?]

He repeats: "I wish I had some more of that." "Some more of what," I ask. "Some more of whatever the hell I was on when I rated that 5.10a."

We know the truth. He broke a hold after cruzing it 

I felt 10c was good. The trick seemed to be trusting your hand/ foot holds. All the while knowing where the last bold was...

Does the last picture seem dark? Or is it my work computer?

[mynameismud]

Actually it was done without the 1st and 4th bolts.

 

[F4?]

I shutter at the thought of that lead. Very impressive.

Has anyone done Byer's original line to the left?

[joe]

Erik, was that the one I missed the pin and last bolt on that topped out?  I don't have my book with me, didn't we do a 10c and 10a as well as get a grip and a 5.9 no star? 
if I remember correctly, the 10c was challenging through a section, not just a move.

[F4?]

ik, was that the one I missed the pin and last bolt on that topped out?

Bingo! That was the one. And why did Beyer choose the placement he did for the last bolt? Maybe cuz the rock was good? But it's way off to the right.

[joe]

ok with the book in front of me, I see that we didn't climb any 10a's.  my memory for climbs is as good as my ability to spot bolts.

so back to the question, how hard did I think it was?
way harder than Cantelope Death
way easier than Jorgie's Continuation.
perhaps easier than the crux sections of Loveline and Cuidado, not as pumpy as Get a Grip.
harder than Dance on a Volcano.
so 10b?

planning on bringing a non-climbing friend to the rock pile, but will stick my harness and shoes in a pack in the event there are ropes dangling on rock