Author Topic: My Crappy Weekend  (Read 10362 times)

Brad Young

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My Crappy Weekend
« on: July 15, 2008, 09:45:20 PM »
It's important to have bad weekends, so you've got a comparison point for the good ones. An ultra short trip summary about my just-over-with July 12 - 14 from an email I sent to a friend:

"We were 600 feet up the starting gully on the 5.7 route on the Thumb, in the South Fork Big Pine Creek area (southern Palisades). Alternating sections of class 2, 3 and 4. Just starting up a class 4 section, he dislodged a boulder and tumbled with it 15 feet. I was 30 feet away and just around a corner, but it sounded bad. Really bad. At first he thought his leg was broken. But it was just a horrible hole/laceration. Cuts everywhere, with a bad hole in the shin too. I thought his right hand finger was nearly severed, but the blood made it look worse than it was. Anyway, we're out, he's on the mend. Fuckin' stuff makes me wonder about back country routes, but what are you going to do, stop climbing? People  (like me in '99) also get creamed right near the road. Just glad I had a good first aid kit, it came in very handy. He never could have rapped down or walked out without the Vicodin. And I had the right stuff to staunch blood flow too.

Talked to him today. They capped the broken tooth, and it's likely to live. He's sore as can be, but more Vicodin is taking the edge off. The chest vent is still in, but he feels like the lung is doing better (it helps that he's back in Santa Rosa, at 300 feet elevation - the lung is more likely to expand more quickly). Broken ribs make him moan every time he moves. He thinks he'll be fine in a few weeks. Very lucky. Actually bad luck it happened at all, good luck we could get ourselves out (although sooo slowly)."

Yeah, I'm pretty certain next weekend will be great, no matter what I do.


salad

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Re: My Crappy Weekend
« Reply #1 on: July 16, 2008, 06:23:12 AM »
wow brad, glad it turned out the way it did.  sounds like it could have been way worse.

i normally don't carry much in the way of first aid, and i need to change that habbit.  part of it is that i don't know much administering first aid, but i guess i lot of it is common sense (bandaging lacerations, etc).

i do always carry 3 or 4 vicodins and one or two stronger ones in the event of a painfull brake, etc...

again glad it was not more serious, relax, and enjoy the coming weekend!
eow!

mynameismud

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Re: My Crappy Weekend
« Reply #2 on: July 16, 2008, 07:28:20 AM »
Holy cripes.  Tell who ever it is we hope he gets  better.   Much good mojo to him and his.

You "almost got wiped next to the road"  I gotta talk to that guy I want a refund.
Here's to sweat in your eye

Ubergoober

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Re: My Crappy Weekend
« Reply #3 on: July 16, 2008, 08:15:36 AM »
Glad to hear your friend is on the mend and you both made it out OK!
SCREWD4LYFE!!

Brad Young

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Re: My Crappy Weekend
« Reply #4 on: July 16, 2008, 12:58:01 PM »
This event has given me an idea. A certified Wilderness First Aid Responder Class ("WFR," pronounced "woofer") lasts two full weeks. Unless one is a professional guide or teacher it's unlikely that two weeks in a row will ever fit into the schedule.

Eight years ago I took a "mini" two day class with Grant. He is incredibly good at this stuff. He teaches the full courses too. We packed a hell of a lot into two days. I created my back country first aid kit and my secondary backpacking first aid kit after that class. They've both been used repeatedly (but, so far, only once for serious shit). I still think I know the basics.

I feel like I did well with this set of injuries and with getting him down. (He's tougher than hell, so the getting out part after we got down was his doing). But, my partner is an MD, and he never lost consciencness. On reflection, I feel rusty after eight years.

I want to contact Grant about a refresher course. Two full days. I'd like to do it in December or January, during the rainy season. I could host it at our house. He'd probably charge $100.00 per person for 8 or 10 people (maybe more, maybe less, I'll ask him). All of us could use the training. Any of you could have been in my place.

Who's interested? Who would seriously commit to a full weekend? I'm willing to set this up. Two of my partners here are already in. Anyone else?

mungeclimber

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Re: My Crappy Weekend
« Reply #5 on: July 16, 2008, 01:27:32 PM »
As long as I'm not on call or have dedicated climbing plans, I'd be interested a two day course.

I haven't had real first aid, especially if we could get Grant's climbing expertise involved.  "use what you got"

On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

salad

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Re: My Crappy Weekend
« Reply #6 on: July 16, 2008, 02:04:14 PM »
id most def be in.
eow!

mynameismud

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Re: My Crappy Weekend
« Reply #7 on: July 16, 2008, 02:16:36 PM »
Sounds good.
Here's to sweat in your eye

joe

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Re: My Crappy Weekend
« Reply #8 on: July 16, 2008, 07:55:06 PM »
interested as well.

F4?

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Re: My Crappy Weekend
« Reply #9 on: July 16, 2008, 07:55:31 PM »
I haven't carried a 1st aid kit in years. The new Pinnacles guide book takes up all the room in my pack.

Ps, you don't want to take pain killers until you get to the hospital. Yah, it sucks, but the meds can complicate things.

Woofer 1st responder....gives you the knowlege to say "your hosed man".

$100 bucks and the chance to drop one of you suckers while you are strapped into the litter, count me in!
I'm not worthy.

mudworm

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Re: My Crappy Weekend
« Reply #10 on: July 16, 2008, 09:28:12 PM »
Quote from: My Name is Mud
Sounds good.

That's two headcounts...if it's affordable for us.
Inch by inch, I will get there.

Brad Young

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Re: My Crappy Weekend
« Reply #11 on: July 17, 2008, 05:41:03 AM »
I'm going to try and set something up for one of the weekends after Thanksgiving. It'll take time to get hold of him (I can only contact him by snail mail). If I can do it, and give  6 or 8 weeks notice, it should help everybody with scheduling.

Who knows, since I climb with most of you, the rear end saved might be my own.

joe

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Re: My Crappy Weekend
« Reply #12 on: July 17, 2008, 08:55:56 AM »
if you're referring to Grant Hiskes, I see him pretty regularly in the meadows, and will probably see him next weds when I'm back up there.
should I run it by him or ask him to call  you?

squiddo

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Re: My Crappy Weekend
« Reply #13 on: July 17, 2008, 12:15:13 PM »
Brad,

I took the WFR course and certified 5 or 6 years back. That was back when UCSF offered it. I'm very interested in a recert.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

Ubergoober

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Re: My Crappy Weekend
« Reply #14 on: July 17, 2008, 03:14:44 PM »
I'm in. Just need some advanced warning on dates.
SCREWD4LYFE!!

Brad Young

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Re: My Crappy Weekend
« Reply #15 on: July 21, 2008, 03:11:50 PM »
Small world. This guy on Supertopo attempted the route we were on when my partner got creamed. We were just above the green and orange dihedral he mentions. The route goes up the left gully he shows in his photo of the the whole peak (one of the gullys with snow at the base). I'll try to link to his thread:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=638897

Pretty route. I think we'll go back next summer. He's healing well now.

Initiating contact with Grant and I'll be setting something up by way of a mini WFR class, trying to give you all weeks of notice before it goes forward.

F4?

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Re: My Crappy Weekend
« Reply #16 on: July 21, 2008, 08:22:25 PM »
Hmm, I've always wanted to check out that area. I guess pinns is good practice for sierra granite.

nope, no baby yet. this week for sure.
I'm not worthy.

mudworm

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Re: My Crappy Weekend
« Reply #17 on: July 21, 2008, 09:36:03 PM »
Quote from: F4?
nope, no baby yet. this week for sure.

You are proactive now, answering the question before it's even asked.  :D
Inch by inch, I will get there.

mungeclimber

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Re: My Crappy Weekend
« Reply #18 on: July 21, 2008, 10:59:16 PM »
Hmm, I've always wanted to check out that area. I guess pinns is good practice for sierra granite.

nope, no baby yet. this week for sure.

why do I picture Bullwinkle?

"this time for SURE!"
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge