Author Topic: Offwidths of Pinnacles? (Read 13490 times)

mungeclimber · « **on:** October 02, 2008, 09:42:43 PM »

started thinking about this. I'm not really sure there are any?

Can you guys post up some examples?

mynameismud · « **Reply #1 on:** October 03, 2008, 05:21:33 AM »

Erik's Folly is a bit of an off size and about 5.8
A tick in time - 10a or b - with this route it depends on how you climb it
most of the rest of the stuff I can think of off the top of my head are chimney.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #2 on:** October 03, 2008, 09:31:05 AM »

interesting, but it sounds like it's just a bit offsize and not really forcing OW climbing.

I wonder if Pinnacles is the only climbing destination that doesn't have offwidths.

fascinating

I think that should be our new objective. Finding an offwidth crack. A real one.

mudworm · « **Reply #3 on:** October 03, 2008, 09:50:24 AM »

Is the next objective finding a big wall at Pinnacles, Munge?

mynameismud · « **Reply #4 on:** October 03, 2008, 10:21:55 AM »

Erik's Folly is a sustained size.
A tick in time it is possible to face climb but it is loose so crawling in side is more secure. It was off size for me.

Finding a good OW would be cool.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #5 on:** October 03, 2008, 01:16:52 PM »

Quote from: mudworm on October 03, 2008, 09:50:24 AM

Is the next objective finding a big wall at Pinnacles, Munge?

There's good ledges on Machete. I don't see why you can't practice big walls on it if you practice low impact techniques, and hauling doesn't impact climbers below you or hikers (which it most likely will, so it's a really bad idea in actuality.)

But theoretically... maybe instead haul to Bad Man, then blast the next day.

Mid week on Son of Dawn?

mynameismud · « **Reply #6 on:** October 03, 2008, 04:20:40 PM »

Premeditated - That should be your only thought.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #7 on:** October 03, 2008, 05:11:08 PM »

Are you asking me out on a date, good sir? A shared bivy? Finish that thing to the top?

mynameismud · « **Reply #8 on:** October 03, 2008, 06:47:32 PM »

I am more of a in a push kinda guy. You know headlamps, cheap liquor, knee pads, but yeah that would be cool.

I just have this RB problem that I really need to spend some time with this year.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #9 on:** October 03, 2008, 08:38:45 PM »

[R]eally (B)ad

I could be cajoled into going up there. Have never been.

mynameismud · « **Reply #10 on:** October 04, 2008, 06:50:49 AM »

ok tuck it into your hat and we shall see if we can work it in some time. Of course the first pitch has to go free.

F4? · « **Reply #11 on:** October 04, 2008, 08:06:43 AM »

Quote

I just have this RB problem that I really need to spend some time with this year.

Awww, sniffle, sniffle. How touching a proposed date. Be gentle.

Bivvy on SODW in slings!

Well, you can always work on your speed climbing on Muchshitty. Try to do SODW, GaryPhyllis> Bill's Bad Bolts > Rock Around the Clock.

Maybe then you are ready for the ultimate MuchShitty link up...but I can't disclose any details about it at this time.

Premeditated sounds interesting. I think it'll take a few bolts ala Harding to get to the top. ALthough, dowels and copperheads would make it interesting.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #12 on:** October 04, 2008, 03:05:11 PM »

all-thread is cheap

Ubergoober · « **Reply #13 on:** October 04, 2008, 06:32:27 PM »

Quote from: My Name is Mud on October 03, 2008, 06:47:32 PM

I am more of a in a push kinda guy. You know headlamps, cheap liquor, knee pads...

I believe Munge was referring to climbing, not your night job.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #14 on:** October 04, 2008, 07:42:19 PM »

aren't you supposed to be gambling or climbing sandstone?

F4? · « **Reply #15 on:** October 05, 2008, 08:58:16 AM »

Quote

aren't you supposed to be gambling or climbing sandstone?

Isn't climbing on sandstone gambling...sometimes you never know when that stuff is going to break.

Brad Young · « **Reply #16 on:** October 07, 2008, 10:09:32 AM »

Back from Italy, man what a trip.

The only two offwidths I know of at Pinns are Assault and Battery (East Side, up the High Peaks Trail), and Emancipation (High Peaks, on Proclamation Pinnacle). I'm not even sure about Assault and Battery. Mr Mud, didn't this one have a wide section down low, a real struggle.

The offwidth section of Emancipation almost made me puke when I led it. The crack is offwidth at a bulge, and the rock on either side of the crack isn't particularly knobby. I couldn't find away to do it except by offwidthing. It protects well with a #4 Camalot. I thought it compared to Chingando (in the Valley) in difficulty for sure, although maybe not as hard as the third pitch of Reed's Direct.

mynameismud · « **Reply #17 on:** October 07, 2008, 10:43:59 AM »

Assault and Battery has a wide section down low, surprisingly not to bad and kinda fun up above.

mynameismud · « **Reply #18 on:** October 07, 2008, 10:45:17 AM »

Brad,
Are you going to the Glen Denny Slideshow tonight?

Brad Young · « **Reply #19 on:** October 07, 2008, 11:00:38 AM »

"Brad,
Are you going to the Glen Denny Slideshow tonight?"

It took me 3 1/2 hours this morning to go through incoming phone messages and the 2 1/2 weeks of mail that accumulated while I was gone. At this rate I'll be lucky to be alive this evening! No, I can't go.

Are you going? If so, compare your reach to his - you'll better understand his bolt ladders!

News:

Author Topic: Offwidths of Pinnacles? (Read 13490 times)