Son of Dawn Wall last weekend

[Jake M.]

Factor and I had a blast on SODW last weekend, both of our first time beyond the first pitch. That is by far my favorite route at pinnacles now. I especially loved the chimney-- if you close your eyes, it almost feels like you are back in the Valley. Thanks to Lane and all others who recommended finishing the route...what an adventure!  Unfortunately, no pics.

Sorry I don't get out as much lately, so I had to post up something!

[F4?]

Definitly a cool route. We added a little more by traversing to Rock Around the Clock via Old Original.

I thought the 5.9 was pretty good. It was like the last move on Lava Falls, but with worse feet, so 5.9+ a little off from the last bolt. Of course having a trail line didn't make it much fun.

Gear is spot on with 1 set of Camalots to #3.

[mynameismud]

A very good route that does not get a lot of traffic.

Very good setting and pitches.

[squiddo]

Sweet, another route to do when on the West side.

[mynameismud]

Put Feeding Frenzy at the top of the list

[squiddo]

Ohhh, which one's that? I need another copy of the guide to leave at the office. Wait, my boss might look down on that.

[mynameismud]

West Side up and around the corner from Tilting Terrace.

[mungeclimber]

start in the grotto

[Brad Young]

In one day, Mr Mud and I both redpointed the second pitch of Feeding Frenzy (after doing the easier first pitch). I can say without exaggeration that we knocked off 70 pounds of rock between our two efforts. Does that sound about right Dennis? We both had to climb using holds we knew were loose, since that was, in some cases, all there was. Lots of rock came off. This means:
a. It is now a great pitch, since we obviously removed all the loose stuff; or
b. It is loose and grungy, and only for the most fanatic Masters of Mud.

[mynameismud]

The juicy details revealed.

The first pitch is cool.  Dirty (it is a water way part of the year) but cool.

The second pitch well dirty but cool.  Just like my mind.

[squiddo]

i need more convincing;-)

[Brad Young]

Mr Mud, have kids! Hurry! If you really think you are cool, kids are the best thing you can do. If you have even one, in 13 years (plus nine months), you'll have a human being in the house whose sole purpose in life is reminding you of how totally uncool you really are. You'll experience extreme eye rolling every time you do something that is - in your world - cool. The fact that you breathe and talk will be uncool. The fact that you do either while in the presence of your child and her friends will mean you are uncool ++++.

This will be good for you.

[F4?]

Mr Mud, have kids! Hurry! If you really think you are cool, kids are the best thing you can do. If you have even one, in 13 years (plus nine months), you'll have a human being in the house whose sole purpose in life is reminding you of how totally uncool you really are. You'll experience extreme eye rolling every time you do something that is - in your world - cool. The fact that you breathe and talk will be uncool. The fact that you do either while in the presence of your child and her friends will mean you are uncool ++++.

This will be good for you.

Gee Brad, I'm suprised you didn't sell the 13year off in Italy.

[mungeclimber]

Mr Mud, have kids! Hurry! If you really think you are cool, kids are the best thing you can do. If you have even one, in 13 years (plus nine months), you'll have a human being in the house whose sole purpose in life is reminding you of how totally uncool you really are. You'll experience extreme eye rolling every time you do something that is - in your world - cool. The fact that you breathe and talk will be uncool. The fact that you do either while in the presence of your child and her friends will mean you are uncool ++++.

This will be good for you.

hahaha, that cracked me up. I can just picture her with a slight bit of whine "DAD! Why can't you be more cool?"



*Just remember, as long as they say that, it means you are probably doing something right.  Won't be long now for Salad.  Good luck guys!  You'll need it.

[Brad Young]

I couldn't sell her off in Italy - the girls stayed home with my folks. And she really is a joy in almost every way. Looks like she and I are going together to the ORGorge this weekend climbing. Still thinking about how she can belay me safely on lead. Considering filling my pack with rocks and tying it to her to hold her down if I fall.

[squiddo]

Brad....time to lean up. Get the sport-climbers fit. Eat nothing but drink tons of water;-) PS, ORG should be nice this weekend (too bad of all the LA climbers). I had fun down there last March.

[Brad Young]

Time to "lean up?" Are you calling me fat? (Mr Mud, stay the hell out of this discussion).

[mungeclimber]

I couldn't sell her off in Italy - the girls stayed home with my folks. And she really is a joy in almost every way. Looks like she and I are going together to the ORGorge this weekend climbing. Still thinking about how she can belay me safely on lead. Considering filling my pack with rocks and tying it to her to hold her down if I fall.

many of the areas have a bolt at the base for soloists. look for gear placements too. that and stay on the easy lines.

[mynameismud]

I agree with Factor, lean up.  Lean up a lot.

[squiddo]

lol, Brad simmah down. Not fat, sport climbers are bean poles.