For the way she climbs, wouldn't "float" work better?
"float" certainly would work better. As we put more effort in time into the approach (hike) than mudworm did the climb.
Marco, it was really nice running into and chatting with you!
It was a pleasure meeting you guys!
Thanks for the work you put in replacing shiny beefy bolts. I sure enjoy clipping them, even though I myself do not enjoy the work of putting them in, using only hand tools.
I agree about the hand tools part. Somewhat of a tangent but I am all for the strictly groundup handdrill stance of the park for FA's. However yesterday, when I spent an hour drilling a 1/2" hole after hitting an embedded lodestone, all I could think about was how it would be faster and less noise pollution to walk back to the car and grab a hammer drill. I feel bad being the loud nusance to hikers in the balconies/machete canyon with nonstop tapping.
Either way SODW is arguably the best west face Machete route(still haven't done Daedelus or Bandits in Bondage so I cant say its the best for certain), and the old bolts need to go so that others can enjoy it stress free (from hardware stress at least). Clint did the vast majority to keep it safe but still there is about 12 more old bolts on it.
Some bolts from P3/4 are good evidence for that, considering they're proper 1/4" and on free climbing sections.
Also must thank JC and Noal for the mentorship and tools required to do this.
