Author Topic: Arrghhh (Read 8703 times)

mynameismud · « **on:** November 16, 2008, 09:41:38 AM »

I had this day set aside to climb at the Pins. I was really looking forward to getting up early and climbing all day at the Pins. The I get sick. I feel like yuck warmed over.

asdfasdfasdf

Beautiful weather and I am coughing till i puke.

F4? · « **Reply #1 on:** November 16, 2008, 06:33:40 PM »

Your welcome! My whole family has passed that little caughing bug around.

Brad Young · « **Reply #2 on:** November 16, 2008, 08:46:30 PM »

Sorry to hear you're sick. It will pass. If it helps, I went to Pinns this weekend and it rained like hell. Got no climbing in; just sat around miserably.

Vic's got it too, but somehow I've avoided it to date.

joe · « **Reply #3 on:** November 16, 2008, 08:54:00 PM »

pleasant surprise to see you there Brad.
yeah, really sucked today. awful weather, a good day to be sick in bed.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #4 on:** November 16, 2008, 09:22:23 PM »

it rained at Pinns this weekend, but was blue bird and hot in the Sierra?

whoa, talk about your inverted weather patterns.

squiddo · « **Reply #5 on:** November 16, 2008, 09:33:13 PM »

I hear you, I was thinking the same thing. Perfect Valley weather....for September;-)

mynameismud · « **Reply #6 on:** November 16, 2008, 09:49:34 PM »

Thanks guys for making me feel better. The weather here in La Honda was perfect.

Feeling a bit better I suppose. Now it just feels like I am trying to cough up glass shards.

Wish I had some pain meds either that or a bullet.

On a somewhat amusing note. I did some work on my fish tank and while looking at the filter base (it is clear) I noticed something moving around. Taking a closer look it turned out to be a fish. It got sucked up and some how managed to survive the ride. So I decided it was time to clean out the filter. Ended up he had company, there were two shrimp in there with him.

F4? · « **Reply #7 on:** November 17, 2008, 07:45:20 AM »

Quote

I went to Pinns this weekend and it rained like hell. Got no climbing in; just sat around miserably.

Truly odd cuz I thought it never rained at the Pinns.

The valley was nice until James woke up sunday late morning...he wasn't happy. He might be teething.

I thought Squiddo was climbing sunday and then I found his rig at the Awanahee. He must have been getting a pedicure cuz I looked for hime at the arches area, but no luck.

squiddo · « **Reply #8 on:** November 17, 2008, 08:44:00 AM »

No, I got a room with a massage and was sleeping in. We went over to the Arches Terrace area. You have to walk a whole 10 mins to get to the base....that might explain why I was absent.

F4? · « **Reply #9 on:** November 17, 2008, 09:17:48 AM »

So much for a note on your car....

Well, I could only walk a few minutes with James in my arms. Stupid trails aren't stroller friendly.

It was for the better cuz he woke up when we got back to the car and wasn't a happy camper.

Brad Young · « **Reply #10 on:** November 17, 2008, 09:37:10 AM »

Well, maybe it didn't rain that hard. On Saturday I "found" and climbed two old routes that had never been reported. On Sunday I redpointed Tuff, on the Frog. Scary and hard. My partner thought more like 11a than 10c. I'd say 10d for sure, technically slightly harder than Volcanic Panic, but not enough to make it 11a. That climb has intimidated me every time I've walked under it starting in Autumn 1986.

Poppy · « **Reply #11 on:** November 17, 2008, 09:56:32 AM »

Sunday I redpointed Tuff Dome Regular Route, 5.6. We made it back before the rain hit.

mynameismud · « **Reply #12 on:** November 17, 2008, 10:01:38 AM »

Where are the newly found routes?

Brad Young · « **Reply #13 on:** November 17, 2008, 10:36:21 AM »

Poppy, I was told you were going to do Costanoan? High Peaks made a better day?

Dennis, on and near The Frog. One is the true summit of The Frog. Bob Walton and I took one look at the (somewhat inobvious) way to the actual highpoint and agreed it had been done before, 5.4. The other "new-found" is nearby. Old '70s bolts, 5.7X slab. I'll post my notes here soon. Tell Mudworm that we need a "sticky" for new and newly found routes. I now know of 8 in the two catagories.

mudworm · « **Reply #14 on:** November 18, 2008, 09:50:34 AM »

Brad, go ahead and start the New and Newly Found Routes thread. Admin will make it sticky.

Brad Young · « **Reply #15 on:** November 18, 2008, 10:49:19 AM »

Wow, "Admin" is wonderful and efficient.

I have what I consider a "complete" list of new and newly found routes since the book came out. Nine routes (whoopedy doo!). But I think it's only fair to keep parts of the list non-public. For example, Munge and Uber posted on this site about a route they established last season. I know where the route is because I was there with Uber when he "discovered" the potential line. But, their post doesn't say where the climb is, AND I'm pretty sure they intend more lines there. So I'm not sure it's fair to them to post what's on my list yet. Munge and/or Uber, please confirm. And Mr Mud's route is noted on this site too, but not with a lot of detail. So, is it OK, DES, to give details on that one?

I note all this because I would like to keep a "current" list, and I'd appreciate hearing from people about new routes. But, I will keep such information private if so requested, for as long as requested. I'll start with what I have that is for sure public.

I've also got a format that may help with a new book in the future, designed to list all known information so the route can be "tracked down" at some point, if needed. Other "posters" of new routes might find this format helpful too.

Brad Young · « **Reply #16 on:** November 18, 2008, 10:58:54 AM »

East Side:

364.1 Flue Fire 5.11a * (FA party called 5.10+) Bolted line 60 feet right of/around corner from Chimney Sweep. Three bolts in a scoop/water chute (third bolt is hard to see - look up and left from second bolt). Crux is passing obvious bulge. A fourth bolt protects easier climbing to the top of the formation (which climbing is done left of that fourth bolt). Shares a one bolt top anchor with Chimney Sweep (they merge toward the top). FA Party: John Barbella, Jim McConachie, Bill McConachie, Dennis Erik Mr Mud. FA Date: May 4, 2008. Source(s): Discussion with Jim McConachie; also Brad Young, Joe Denicola attempt at climbing.

336.9 The Frog - True Summit 5.4 The Frog’s actual summit appears to have been climbed (probably years ago, to reach the high point). Move 75 feet up South Side Shuffle to an oak tree. Twenty feet farther look for a slot on the left. Walk up this slot 20 feet to the base of a bulge. A few moves of fifth class up and left across the bulge and into an obvious, watermelon size hole lead to easy ground. No summit anchor. FA Party: Unknown. FA Date: Unknown. Source(s): Brad Young, Bob Walton, inspection and ascent of route, November 15, 2008.

High Peaks

West Side

740.2 Somewhere 5.___ Reported long ago to David Rubine by Jon Cochran (as part of S.V.M. Post 200 Climbers?), by way of a letter and a “map.” Jon wrote, “lies on low angle somewhat flaky face to the right of Nexus." Maybe 4+/- bolts.” Bolts reported as 2 ¼ inch Star Dryvin. No rating given. FA Party: Crile Carvey, Jon Cochran. FA Date: 1984. Source(s): Correspondence by Jon Cochran to David Rubine, given November, 2008 by Rubine to Young as part of huge box of old archival material.

mudworm · « **Reply #17 on:** November 18, 2008, 11:02:26 AM »

Um, Brad, I think Admin would like you to start a new thread with that information. We wouldn't want a sticky thread titled "Arrghhh", or would we?

Brad Young · « **Reply #18 on:** November 18, 2008, 11:04:24 AM »

I can copy and paste it into a new thread, would that be best?

mudworm · « **Reply #19 on:** November 18, 2008, 11:05:32 AM »

Or you can retype everything if you prefer.

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Author Topic: Arrghhh (Read 8703 times)

Poppy