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Author Topic: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)  (Read 32757 times)
Brad Young
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« on: November 18, 2008, 11:32:23 AM »

I have what I consider a "complete" list of new and newly found routes since the book came out. But I think it's only fair to keep parts of the list non-public. For example, at one point Munge and Uber posted on this site about a route they established (after the book came out). I knew/know where the route is because I was there with Uber when he "discovered" the potential line. But, their post doesn't say where the climb is, AND I'm pretty sure they intend more lines there. So I'm not sure it's fair to them to post what's on my list yet. And Mr Mud's route is noted on this site too, but not with a lot of detail. I note all this because I would like to keep a "current" list, and I'd appreciate hearing from people about new routes. But, I will keep such information private if so requested, for as long as requested. I'll start with what I have that is for sure public. I've also got a format that may help with a new book in the future, designed to list all known information so the route can be "tracked down" at some point, if needed. Other "posters" of new routes might find this format helpful too.

There are 83 new and found routes listed as of October 28, 2014 (when added to the 893 routes listed in the 2007 guidebook, this makes 976 routes publicly known to exist at Pinnacles):

EAST SIDE:

0.5  Flake Don’t Break  5.9+ R    This route is located on a rock called Snake Bend Wall (this route’s first ascent authors gave the formation a humorous name of their own:  “The Screeching Halt,” but it was dubbed Snake Bend Wall some years ago).  No routes have previously been reported on this formation, although other climbers have done some light exploring on it.  Snake Bend Wall is visible from the road that leads up to the normal East Side parking area.  It is on the left, 0.7 mile after the stone-lined bridge across Chalone Creek (where the road forks on the drive into the East Side).  Park for Snake Bend Wall in one of the normal East Side parking areas.  Approach by hiking down the Bear Gulch Trail (downstream, away from the “normal” Bear Gulch climbing areas).  This trail crosses two foot-bridges before crossing over a paved, employee housing driveway.  Continue another 125 yards from the driveway before reaching a third bridge.  This bridge is quickly followed by a fourth bridge.  The trail then immediately curves right.  Snake Bend Wall is across the creek from this bend, facing northeast, right at the trail.  Flake Don’t Break ascends a crack system just to the right of a prominent roof. The crack curves left at the top to a belay at an oak tree on a ledge (the first ascent party descended by rappelling from this tree). EDIT: As indicated (now) below, both Gavin and I have done subsequent leads of this route. I can add the following information: First, this is a very, very serious and committing lead; the route might be "X" and not "R" depending on whether two cams - or the rock they are in - would or would not hold a fall (neither of us "tested" these pieces). Second, anyone who does this route will instantly recognize that its name is very, very well given. Third, I found a very old, very worn piece of one-inch tubular webbing (with a water knot in it) buried in the dirt at the top of the crack. Someone has been active on this rock in the past, although I suspect the webbing came from the top of the formation (I've speculated that it fell off a practice rappel anchor there after it rotted through??); it seems fairly clear, however, that this route hadn't been climbed before Kinkaid's very bold, onsight lead. FA Party: Maxwell Kincaid, Chris Koppl.  FA Date:  November 11, 2012.  Source(s):  Mountain Project November 15, 2012, posting about the route and its first ascent; discussion with Maxwell Kinkaid for further details; subsequent leads of route by Gavin Emmons and Brad Young.

12.5  The Long and the Short of It  5.9 *  This climb begins on the Tourist Trap’s midway ledge, 25 feet right of the two bolts found halfway up Nipple Jam.  Start in an up-and-left hand crack.  This leads 15 feet to a roof (gear to 1 ½ inches).  Make one move up the roof to the first bolt (reachy).  Three more bolts protect climbing up and generally right to a shallow corner.  Move up the corner to a two-bolt anchor, 55 feet from the start of the route. FA Party: Gavin Emmons, Kyle Queener, Brad Young.  FA Date: October 27, 2014. Source(s):  Self, part of first ascent party.

13.2  Battle Hamster  5.9 *  Battle Hamster is one of several routes established on the broken-up cliff between Wild Berry Crack and Pickpocket (which is the left-most route on Tourist Trap).  Battle Hamster is located 40 feet right of Wild Berry Crack.  Stemming in a deep, black chimney leads to a ledge on the right.  From the ledge, crux moves in an awkward crack lead to the top of the cliff.  Although this route is only 35 feet long, it has surprisingly good rock and good moves.  Gear: ¾ to two inches, plus two four inch cams to make an anchor.  Walk off (the Ignorable Cliffs climber’s access trail leads to the High Peaks Trail which can be used to get back around to the base of the climb).    FA Party:  Robert Behrens, Josh Mucci.  FA Date:  April 10, 2011.  Source(s):  Description of the route from Robert Behrens while standing at its base; subsequent ascent of the route with Josh Mucci.

13.51  Crampster  5.1  The routes Crampster and Hamsternomics (the next route below) both start from a ledge which is above and behind the route Supply Side Hamster.  Reach this ledge by climbing Supply Side Hamster, or, class three, by way of the “Hamster Hole,” a chimney/vertical tunnel located on the back side of the Supply Side Hamster buttress (to find the Hamster Hole, walk left and then back and right from the first bolt on Supply Side Hamster).  From the start ledge, Crampster follows an up-and-left ramp (with a protectable crack).  Pass a very small scrub oak and finish at the top of the cliff band.  It is 30 feet from the start ledge to the top of the cliff.  Gear: small to two inches.  FA Party:  Josh Mucci (solo).  FA Date:  March, 2011.  Source(s):  Description of the route from Josh Mucci while standing at its base; subsequent solo ascent of the route.

13.52  Hamsternomics  5.8  This route starts at the same point as the route Crampster.  Follow a discontinuous crack in a black waterstreak 30 feet straight up to the top of the cliff.  Good protection gives way to runout climbing at the top.  A pine tree on top of the cliff provides an anchor.  Walk off (the Ignorable Cliffs climber’s access trail leads to the High Peaks Trail which can be used to get back around to the base of the climb).  Gear: very small to one two inch piece.  FA Party:  Josh Mucci, Robert Behrens.  FA Date:  April 10, 2011.  Source(s):  Description of the route from Josh Mucci while standing at its base; subsequent ascent of the route with Alan Nilsson.

13.6  Supply Side Hamster  5.7 *  This route is 150 feet right of Wild Berry Crack, and 80 feet left of Pickpocket (which is the left-most route on Tourist Trap).  Three bolts protect climbing on mossy, but good rock 30 feet to the top of a long, narrow buttress (the holds used in making the climb are quite clean).  There is a one-bolt top anchor.  FA Party:  Robert Behrens, Josh Mucci.  FA Date:  April 17, 2011.  Source(s):  Description of the route from Robert Behrens while standing at its base; subsequent ascent of the route.

13.81  Dumpster  5.3  Dumpster starts 40 feet right of the bolted face route Supply Side Hamster and 50 feet left of the Tourist Trap route Pickpocket.  A ramp/gully with twin cracks leads to twin chimneys (these chimneys are in the main formation; ignore the half-length chimney behind the short pillar on the left).  For Dumpster, follow these cracks to the base of and then up the right chimney.  The crux of the route is reaching and then passing under the large, obvious chockstone near the top of that right chimney.  Walk off (the Ignorable Cliffs climber’s access trail leads to the High Peaks Trail which can be used to get back around to the base of the climb).   FA Party:  Alan Nilsson (solo).  FA Date:  April 24, 2011.  Source(s):  Description of the route from Alan Nilsson while standing at its base.

13.82  Dumpster Exit  5.0  Climb as for Dumpster, but well below the large, obvious chockstone exit right over blocks and boulders to a horizontal ledge. Continue to the top of the cliff on an easy face.  Walk off (the Ignorable Cliffs climber’s access trail leads to the High Peaks Trail which can be used to get back to the base of the climb).  FA Party:  Robert Behrens (solo).  FA Date:  April 10, 2011.  Source(s):  Description of the route from Robert Behrens while standing at its base.

24.1  The Road To Bagalaar 5.8 R  Start at the large arete just right of Bushwackin Dave.  A first bolt is visible 12 feet up. Continue up loose rock to the 2nd bolt which protects the 5.8 crux moves. From there look for a large knob; it is just above the 3rd bolt. Use a small (and marginal) nut placement in a flake 10 feet above the 3rd bolt (this is a horizontal placement in good rock - a long runner can also be slung around a knob out left, and the two equalized). Climbing above the nut is on good rock with a committing step left to a pocket and a mantle to a ledge. The climbing above the nut is run out 5.7. A two bolt, anchor with painted chain can be seen in the orange headwall above (good rock, both bolts are 3.25 inch x 3/8 inch Rawl 5-Piece). Further information: first bolt placed on stance: 2.75 inch x 3/8 inch Rawl 5-piece; second bolt placed from hooks: 3.25 inch x 3/8 inch Rawl 5-piece; third bolt placed from hooks: 2.75 inch x 3/8 inch Rawl 5-piece. FA party: Josh Mucci, Fabrizio Bittner, others. FA Date: January 17, 2009. Source(s): Emails from, and discussion with, Josh Mucci.

74.5 Jorgie Swallows 5.10d R  Start on Swallow Crack, but, when partway up, move up an obvious, overhanging arete/right-facing dihedral (a bit of both). This, the "R" rated crux of the route, involves interesting pinches and some finger crack. Protection here is possible, but not good. Join Jorgie's Continuation just below its crux bolt. Finish up that climb. FA: Gavin Emmons. FA Date: June 6, 2009. Source(s): Postings to MudnCrud Forum, June, 2009.

89.1 Jury Duty  5.7  This route starts at the top of The Verdict and climbs 35 feet to the rim by way of a left-leaning, crack-to-squeeze chimney, to a face. The climbing is on good rock, and is mostly easy. Finish at the Cleft bolt anchor. Gear: take six or so pieces, from small to four inches. FA Party: Unknown, but probably Gavin Emmons. FA Date: Unknown, but first confirmed on February 5, 2005. Source(s): Comments and beta from Gavin Emmons, who suggested that he had climbed this route many times and that it should be listed as a separate route; ascent of route with John Cook, April 20, 2014.

92.9 Gavin's Tangent 5.10a **  Start on Stupendous Man. From the ledge above the mantle section of that route, move up and slightly left to a single bolt. From that bolt, move up to an obvious corner/arch which allows a side-cling/under-cling leftward (good gear here, one to two inches). Clip the last bolt on Lithium and finish on that route. FA (of entire route as a free pitch): Probably Gavin Emmons. FA Date: March 5, 2009. Source(s): Postings to MudnCrud Forum, May, 2009. Additional sources: Consensus as to rating, stars, and quality of protection among climbers who climbed it March 20, 2010, including Brad Young, Alan Nilsson, Steve Dawson, "Jet," and about three others. On that date there were five separate leads of the route, and also several toprope ascents.

97.9 Lost Horizons - Fat Crack Finish 5.8 * This a variant finish to Lost Horizons (one that has obviously been done many times in the past and which is a significant enough variation to list as a separate route). Climb Lost Horizons to a point just before the first pitch's rightward traverse. Move slightly left here instead (toward the Stupendous Man bolt anchor). Follow a wide crack straight up to the end of Lost Horizons' normal second pitch. Pro: several medium to large cams for the first part of Lost Horizons, and a few four to five inch cams for the upper, wide crack. FA Party: Unknown. FA Date: Unknown. Source(s): Ascent of the route with Joe Denicola, January 13, 2012.

104.2  Straight Up  5.10a  A variant first half to route number 104, Roof. Start five or six feet to the right of that route's (corner) start. A short loose section leads straight up onto ledges, then onto solid rock and past two bolts.  Join Roof just after the start of its rightward traverse; finish to that route's intermediate anchor.  FA Party:  Matthew Footer, Greg Schaffer.  FA Date:  August 29, 2011. Source(s):  Emails from Matthew and Greg detailing the route; postings to Mud ‘N Crud Forum, October 31, 2011.

106.4 Taking the Wind Out of Your Mudsails  5.7 R  This route is located on the (small) northwest face of Discovery Wall, 70 feet right of the route Welcome to the Machine (route number 106). Approach this face through a gap in the brush where the High Peaks Trail comes closest to the wall. Follow an up-and-right ramp to its end 30 feet up (gear from small to two inches). From the end of the ramp move up 15 feet to a ledge (using a slung knob for protection). Traverse straight left from the ledge, ending the pitch on a big ledge with big trees. A class four chimney behind the trees leads to the top of the wall. The runout, upper traverse of this route is very serious for a follower (it is also serous for a leader). FA Party: Unknown.  FA Date: Unknown.  Source(s): Ascents of the route are detailed in a February 22, 2014 post to the Mud ‘N Crud thread "Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook);" also, ascent of the route with Tricia Young, March 16, 2014.

172.8  West of the Sun  5.14a ***  This bolt-protected route is on the far left edge of The Monolith’s west face, just left of route number 174, Ranger Bolts (the first bolt on the route was placed years ago and is shown in the bottom left corner of the topo on page 78).  Seventeen bolts lead to the top of The Monolith, where this route shares a (newly replaced) multiple bolt anchor with Ranger Bolts. FA Party: Derek Powell (Karl Aguilar joined Derek in bolting the route).  FA Date:  December 22, 2011. Source(s): The route is detailed in two threads on Mud ‘N Crud Forum, started June 13, 2011 and December 23, 2011.

172.9  Hajime  5.13c **   This “link-up” route starts on West of the Sun.  After that route’s eighth bolt, move right onto Ranger Bolts and finish to the top.  FA Party: Derek Powell. FA Date: January 4, 2012.  Source(s):  The route is detailed in a thread on Mud ‘N Crud Forum.  The thread was started on December 23, 2011; the details of this particular route were posted January 12, 2012.

182.7 Miscegenation 5.12b**  Start between Black Dagger and Pearl Sheath. Five bolts protect very steep climbing on surprisingly good edges. Join Pearl Sheath at its last bolt; finish to that route's anchor.  FA Party: Mark Seelos, Adam Long.  FA Date: April 2, 2011.  Source(s): Posting to Mudn'Crud Forum, April 2, 2011.

191.8  Pistolero Pinnacle  Third Class  Pistolero Pinnacle is 100 feet west of Tiburcio’s X.  It has a steep, tall south side (facing the reservoir).  The north side is much shorter and is class three.  There is one old bolt on top.  FA Party:  Unknown.  FA Date:  Unknown.  Source(s):  Sighting of summit bolt and ascent of route February 8, 2011.

191.9  Bandit Chimney  5.5 R  This is the obvious chimney that separates Tiburcio’s X from the formation to its immediate left.  Start 30 feet left of Cross Your Heart.  Finish 25 to 30 feet south (toward the reservoir) of the obvious, large chockstone wedged in the top of the chimney (it is also possible to exit the chimney, class three, below this chockstone).  Pro: Two to four inch cams can be used in horizontal cracks.  There is no top anchor, walk north on the top of the rock to the obvious pine (three old bolts found on top of this formation are hangerless and/or in the wrong location for a belay).  FA Party:  Unknown.  FA Date:  Unknown.  Source(s):  Inspection of the top of the separate formation and sighting of three bolts there (two out on the south end of the rock and one, rusty and hangerless, above the center of the chimney); ascent of route February 8, 2011.

192.5  Blister in the Sun  5.10d *  This route starts on Coyote Ugly but finishes on the face to the left of that route.  Climb Coyote Ugly to the up-and-left ledge that extends to the top anchor of Cross Your Heart. Before reaching that anchor climb directly up past seven bolts to the Tiburcio’s X top anchor. Pro:  bolts and gear from one half to two inches (use long slings) for the traverse from Coyote Ugly. FA Party:  Dave Alfrey, Scott Lappin.  FA Date:  October 23, 2011.  Source(s): Posting to Mud ’N Crud Forum, October 28, 2011; Facebook “Pinnacles” page, postings starting October 26, 2011.

203.3  The Gopher  5.7  The Gopher is a long formation which is west of (uphill from), and across The Rim Trail from Teaching Rock.  It runs uphill from near the trail. It culminates in a high point on which is balanced an oblong, 20 foot diameter boulder (The Gopher's head).  Approach this boulder, class two, from its uphill side (the boulder/high point is about 100 feet from the trail).  A few moves over a bulge lead onto the top of the boulder (which is the top of the formation).  There is no summit anchor (downclimb).  FA Party:  Unknown.  FA Date:  Unknown.  Source(s):  Ascent and report of route by Robert Behrens, March 5, 2011; subsequent viewing of route with Behrens and solo ascent; March 13, 2011.

203.4  The Proctor  5.6  The Proctor is a small pinnacle located 100 feet north of The Gopher, and 150 feet above (west of) The Rim Trail (The Proctor is the closest to the trail of several rocks/pinnacles on this part of the hillside).  It is possible to walk onto the top of the rock from its uphill side (there is one old bolt on top).  The climbing route is on the downhill side of the rock; an up-and-right crack leads 15 feet to face climbing, which leads 15 more feet to the top of the rock.  Gear:  this route takes surprisingly good protection to one inch.  FA Party:  Unknown.  FA Date:  Unknown.  Source(s): Ascent and report of route by Robert Behrens, March 5, 2011; subsequent viewing and ascent of route with Behrens; March 13, 2011.

203.61 Where's Dave?  5.5 *  This route is the first to be established on The Toe. The Toe is one of two significant formations which are on the northeast side of the reservoir, about three-quarters of the way from the dam to The Watchmen, and about 100 feet above the reservoir's high water mark (there are also several, much smaller pinnacles in the vicinity of The Toe and its neighbor - described next in order - Topsy Turvy). Both The Toe and Topsy Turvy are shown generally on the maps on pages 126 and 152 of the 2007 guidebook (but neither is named on those maps). The formation Topsy Turvy is most easy to identify - it consists of a 15 foot diameter ball of rock balanced precariously on a pedestal made up of another large rock. The Toe is 40 feet to the southeast (closer to the dam) from Topsy Turvy. Where's Dave? is on the northwest side of The Toe. Move right (southwest) onto an obvious ledge below an sharp, short overhang (and above a 20 foot drop). One bolt low protects the first crux, moving over the overhang. Easy moves lead to a second bolt and a second crux. There are two bolts on the spacious summit, 40 feet from the start of the climb.  FA Party:  Brad Young, Jennifer Wang, Sonja Raub, David Foss, Deb Thompson.  FA Date:  April 13, 2014.  Source(s):  Self, part of first ascent party.

203.62 Topsy Turvy  A1  Topsy Turvy is 40 feet to the northwest of The Toe (see description immediately above). It consists of a 15 foot diameter ball of rock balanced precariously on a pedestal made up of another large rock. There is one old, rusty bolt on top. Make a long rope toss and use ascenders to reach the summit. EDIT: Topsy Turvy was also freed by Adam Long on April 19, 2014, on toprope, using a weird belay scheme that involved the the whole rope passed over the summit and pulled in as he climbed. He thought the climbing was 5.11.  FA Party:  Unknown.  FA Date: Unknown.  Source(s):  Self, observed an old, rusty bolt on top of the formation and inspected its entire base and sides to determine that no other possible means of ascent exists other than the "rope chuck and prusik," up-the-rope method; ascent of route on April 19, 2014.

204.3  The Knight’s Watch  5.8  This route is on the south (the reservoir) side of North Watchman.  Start at the formation’s lowest point.  Clip two bolts (both are shared with the next route on the list, The White Walker) then diverge slightly left.  Four more bolts protect the rest of the climb (six bolts total in 90 feet).  There is a two-bolt anchor on top of North Watchman; this allows an 80 foot rappel to the ground.  FA Party:  John Cook, Aaron McDonald, Jon Cochran, Kathy Cook.  FA Date:  May 3, 2014.  Source(s):  Email of May 3, 2014, from John Cook confirming that the route was finished; self, present for most of the route’s bolting on April 20, 2014; ascent of route with Bob Walton, May 7, 2014.

204.4  The White Walker  5.10a  This route is also on the south side of North Watchman.  Clip the first two bolts of The Knight’s Watch before diverging right.   Continue past two more bolts to lower angle rock.  A long run-out (possible 2 ½ inch cam) leads to a ledge below a headwall.  Move right to one more bolt.  Crux moves over a steep bulge lead to easier climbing and the two-bolt anchor, 95 feet from the start (fun climbing, but moving right on the ledge to the crux is contrived).  FA Party: Brad Young, Aaron McDonald, Jon Cochran.  FA Date:  April 20, 2014.  Source(s):  Self, part of the first ascent party.

205.1  Watch Those Jams  5.8  An alternate way to summit South Watchman.  Start the regular route (the 5.3), but from the shoulder of rock (where the regular route traverses left), move slightly right (west).  Climb a loose crack (nice hands at the top) to the base of the summit boulder.  Gear: two each, two to four inches.  FA Party:  Adam Long.  FA Date:  April 19, 2014.  Source(s):  Report that day by Adam Long and also by John Cook who was climbing the regular South Watchman route at the same time; ascent of route with Bob Walton, May 7, 2014.

226.5  Twisted Sister  5.9 *  This route ascends the far right side of the west face of The First Sister.  What is now the first bolt on this route is shown on the topo on page 94 of the guidebook (the bolt was a 3/8 inch Star Dryven and has now been replaced).   Five bolts protect climbing over four obvious bulges.  Each bulge presents slightly easier climbing than the one before (in other words, the first bulge is the crux of the route).  After the fourth bulge, 50 more feet of unprotected 5.0 leads to the right-most (south) First Sister summit anchor.  FA Party:  Jim McConachie, Alan Nilsson, Brad Young, Robert Behrens, Josh Mucci, Bill McConachie.  FA Date:  April 24, 2011.  Source(s):  Self, part of first ascent party.

235.1 Your Sister... 5.5 This route and the next one listed below (Kid Sister) are both located on the "large shoulder of rock" described in the 2007 guidebook under route number 236, "Third Sister Approach - Northeast Gully." Both routes start from the ground and end about 45 feet higher, at a two bolt anchor near a large pine. Both climbs are found between the chimney start of route number 235 "Third Sister Approach - Northwest Face," and the water streak shown to that start's left in the topo on page 92 of the 2007 book. Both climbs are nice, additional "approach pitches" to get to the base of the east face of the Third Sister and the routes that start there. This is the right route (the two are listed right to left, consistent with the routes on either side of them). Climb past three bolts on the blunt arete to the left of the chimney between the Second and Third Sisters. The crux is low. The name it intended to be short for a longer but undefined phrase, such as "Your Sister Wears Army Boots." FA Party: Bruce Hildenbrand, Clint Cummins. FA Date: February, 2013. Source(s): Mungeclimber's April 14, 2013 posting to the thread "Newly Established and Found routes (Since the 2007 Guidebook);" further discussion about that route on that thread; ascent of route May 9, 2013.

235.2 Kid Sister 5.6 This route starts ten feet left of Your Sister.... It is steeper than that route. Climb past two bolts before moving up and slightly right to join Your Sister at its third bolt. FA Party: Clint Cummins, Bruce Hildenbrand. FA Date: February, 2013. Source(s): Mungeclimber's April 14, 2013 posting to the thread "Newly Established and Found routes (Since the 2007 Guidebook);" further discussion about that route on that thread; ascent of route May 9, 2013.

273.2  Cheeso Pani  5.9 ***  Climb the streak/scoop just right of Tato Pani’s first pitch, ending at the same belay as that pitch (this belay has a second bolt now - it was placed by Cheeso Pani/Tato Pani first ascent author Jon McConachie).  The route  protects well, with two bolts, a slung "ear" of rock (amazingly solid) and gear (take cams from one to three inches, with extra two inch pieces).  FA Party:  Jim and Jon McConachie.  FA Date:  November 23, 2012.  Source(s):  Email dated November 24, 2012 from Jim McConachie; ascent of route, January 16, 2013.

312.3 Skywalk  5.6 R  This route is on the next pinnacle to the south of Ridge Rock (both formations are shown on the map on page 126 of the 2007 guidebook; the trail to Gertie's Pinnacle passes between the two). Climb the rock's slender north arete (the end nearest to Ridge Rock). Start behind a manzanita, in a shallow chute which leads to a low shoulder on the formation's east side. The chute leads to one bolt 30 feet up, which protects crux moves onto the arete. The climbing eases after the crux; reach the summit after 60 feet, but continue way back to use a large manzanita as a belay anchor. Walk off to the south. FA Party: Josh Mucci and Robert Behrens.  FA Date:  April, 2012.  Source(s):  Discussions about route with Mucci and Behrens; ascent of route with Tricia Young, March 16, 2014.

336.9  The Frog - True Summit  5.4   The Frog’s actual summit appears to have been climbed (probably years ago, to reach the high point).  Move 75 feet up South Side Shuffle to an oak tree.  Twenty feet farther look for a slot on the left.  Walk up this slot 20 feet to the base of a bulge.  A few moves of fifth class up and left across the bulge and into an obvious, watermelon size hole lead to easy ground.  No summit anchor.  FA Party: Unknown.   FA Date:  Unknown.  Source(s):  Brad Young, Bob Walton, Josh Mucci, Jennifer Wang, inspection and ascent of route, November 15, 2008.

352.2  Tadpole Rock - East Face  5.7 X  Tadpole Rock is the obvious formation 100 yards northwest of The Frog.  Its north face is steep to quite steep.  The lower angle, long, east face has two older bolts making an anchor  on top (and, now, that anchor has a third, newer bolt).  The face has an “alluvial fan” shape.  Start at the left side of the base of this face, left of an oak tree.  Climb up and right, on an easy but getting-harder slab (5.6).  Continue 70 feet to one bolt which protects crux moves over a steeper bulge.  FA Party:  Unknown.  FA Date:  Unknown.  Source(s):  Brad Young, Bob Walton, Jennifer Wang, Josh Mucci, inspection and ascent, November 15, 2008.

352.3  A Rock, a Hammer and a Black Eye  5.11a  This route is on the far right (west) end of the north face of Tadpole Rock. Eight bolts protect climbing straight up, then left and up, and then up and right. The crux is getting to and then past the second bolt. The traversing up and right near the top is 5.10. There is a two bolt anchor on top. Walk off. Although the rock on this route looks good (and much of it actually is), there is enough so-so rock that no stars are given. FA Party: Alan Nilsson, Brad Young, Steve Dawson. FA Date: December 12, 2010. Source: Self, part of the first ascent party.

352.4  Brown Rice and Boogers  5.7 *  This route is also on the far right (west) end of the north face of Tadpole Rock; it starts 20 feet right of A Rock, a Hammer and a Black Eye.  Four bolts protect 65 feet of climbing.  A few moves from the ground lead to an obvious hole in the rock.  The first bolt can be clipped while standing in this hole.  Two more bolts protect climbing straight up.  After the third bolt the angle of the rock declines.  One more bolt protects climbing up and left to the two bolt anchor for A Rock, a Hammer and a Black Eye.  Walk off to the southeast.  FA Party: Brad and Tricia Young, Alan Nilsson.  FA Date:  December 9, 2009.  Source(s):  Self, part of the first ascent party.

352.9 Primrose Pinnacle 5.3 Primrose Pinnacle is located at the head of the next valley west of the valley between The Snail and The Hand. This separate valley is parallel to and drains in the same direction as the valley between The Snail and The Hand. Although Primrose Pinnacle is at the head of this other valley, it isn't easy to approach up that feature. Instead, approach from near the start of the route Back of the Hand. From there, move west (slightly uphill) through light brush to the base of a long, south-north running rock ridge. Gain the top of this ridge (20 feet of class four slab), then turn left (south). Continue south on top of the ridge, which is mostly rock. Look down into the next canyon to the west; this canyon ends among slabs (on the near side) and cliffs and small pinnacles (at its head). Primrose Pinnacle is a free-standing pinnacle immediately east of the canyon's drainage/creek. Its lower (north) face is 60 feet high and its upper (south) face is 20 feet high. Approach by curving over to its upper side. The formation is undercut on almost all sides - the exception is a face/ramp that starts on the southeast part of the pinnacle and crosses its east face before finishing on the pinnacle's north side. The start moves are extremely exposed (a belay anchored to stout bushes was used on the first ascent). These moves lead to a shoulder of rock and a hidden bolt. Another crux is followed by climbing to the top. A two bolt anchor allows an overhanging rappel back to the start. FA Party: Jim McConachie, Brad Young, Joel Primrose. FA Date: February 23, 2013. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.

364.1  Flue Fire  5.11a *  (FA party called 5.10+.) Bolted line 60 feet right of/around corner from Chimney Sweep.  Three bolts in a scoop/water chute (third bolt is hard to see - look up and left from second bolt).  Crux is passing obvious bulge.  A fourth bolt protects easier climbing to the top of the formation (which climbing is done left and then up from that fourth bolt).  Shares a two bolt top anchor with Chimney Sweep (they merge toward the top; a second bolt was added to this anchor on May 1, 2010, by Jim McConachie, a first ascent author of both routes).  FA Party:  John Barbella, Jim McConachie, Bill McConachie, Dennis Erik S.  FA Date:  May 4, 2008.  Source(s):  Discussion with Jim McConachie; also Brad Young, Joe Denicola, Erik Bratton ascents and attemped ascents of route.

364.3  No Country For Old Men  5.7 R  This route is on the southwest face of a separate formation (now called Byzantium) which is 150 yards northeast of Chimney Sweep.  The formation consists of several pinnacles "lumped" together south-to-north in a series of humps. The route faces toward Chimney Sweep, and can be seen from near the base of that route. The climbing is on an easy-to-see, slabby face just right of a water streak which is itself just right of a pine.  Three bolts lead to an anchor-less summit. Walk off to the northwest.  FA Party: Jeff Stroh, Steve Imai.  FA Date:  May 13, 2010. Source(s):  Mud ‘N Crud Forum:  “First FA at Pinns,” from May 13, 2010, also ascent by Brad Young and Bob Walton, November 12, 2010.
EDIT: By way of further detail, the northwest side of the Byzantium is only about 100 feet from Nitwit Knob (route #388), and is shown on the map at page 140 (but the map is perhaps a little out of scale here - the whole group of The Knee/Nitwit/Byzantium should be moved on the map a little to the southwest).

364.5  Perne in a Gyre  5.6  This, the second  route on Byzantium, is on its small, northwest face (not on the much larger, water-streak filled northeast face). Climb a slabby, faint water streak, 45 feet past three bolts. There is a one bolt summit anchor. A 30 second walk-off leads back to the base.   FA Party: Jeff Stroh.  FA Date: March 20, 2014. Source(s):  Mud ‘N Crud Forum:  “New Route,” from March 21, 2014, also ascent by Brad Young and Jennifer Wang, April 12, 2014.

389.1  Peeling Away  5.11b  This route is in the same drainage as the route/formation Little Mustagh, 200 feet further upstream.  The route faces northeast.  Start in the creek, move onto a pedestal, then climb straight up past six bolts.  There is a two bolt summit anchor.  FA Party:  (Bolt installation, on lead, and subsequent toprope) Dennis Erik S. and M Xi; (first lead) Adam Long.  FA Dates:  June, 2007 (toprope), February 6, 2011 (lead).  Source(s):  Discussions with first ascentionists; Mud’n Crud Forum, “S….’s new route (June 30, 2007):  Peeling Away;” and  “Superbowl Sunday (A Trip Report);” also, communications with/by Dennis Erik S and M Xi and Adam Long, February, 2011.

397.9  Little Scrapper  5.4 R  This route is located six feet left of the route Little Pipper (it is on the same formation, a very short, blunt buttress; Little Pipper climbs the right edge of the buttress and Little Scrapper climbs its left edge).  An easy ramp leads to steeper climbing above.  No pro.  Walk off.  FA Party:  John Cook (free solo).  FA Date:  October 27, 2012.  Source(s):  November 3, 2012, posting to Mud ‘N Crud Forum Thread:  “Newly Established and Found Routes (since the ’07 Guidebook),” follow-up email from Cook.

405.4  Pea Break  5.5 R  This route leads to the top of the highest pinnacle in a group of four pinnacles which together, are called The Rest Stop.  The group is 60 feet above (north of) the High Peaks Trail just beyond the turn-off point for The Unmentionable (It is about halfway from parking to The High Peaks and is frequented by hikers and scramblers).  The tallest pinnacle is on the northeast side of the group.  Climb the short right edge of its southwest side (starting in a corridor between it and the second highest pinnacle in the group).  The rock on this route is very clean and hard.  It is possible to get a so-so 1 ½ inch cam in a horizontal crack halfway up.  There is no summit anchor (downclimb or use a pinnacles rappel).  FA Party:  Unknown.  FA Dates:  Unknown.  Source(s):  Discovery and solo ascents of route by Robert Behrens and self, March 13, 2011.

448.4  From Dawn to Tusk  5.10a *  From Dawn to Tusk and the following route, Hungry, Hungry Hippo are both on a separate rock face that is behind the pillar climbed by the second pitch of Lightning Bolt Crack.  Like Lightning Bolt Crack, these climbs face northeast.  Approach the base of Hungry, Hungry Hippo and From Dawn to Tusk by walking to the right and uphill from the base of Lightning Bolt Crack.  From Dawn to Tusk starts in a chimney/slot 50 feet to the left of the start of Hungry, Hungry Hippo.  Move into this slot and then down a little to a stance at a small, separate pillar.  Five bolts protect slab climbing in a water streak (the third bolt is on a large loadstone on the left, it faces toward a climbers rear-end and is hard to notice while leading). After this water streak the route nearly joins Hungry, Hungry Hippo at a flat “shoulder” of rock.  Continue up a streak past four more bolts, gear placements and the route crux.  Shares a two-bolt top anchor with Hungry, Hungry Hippo.  The route is 160 feet long.  Nine bolts total, and a few one to two inch cams (especially a brown Tri-Cam)  FA Party:  Jeff Lane, Robert Behrens, Josh Mucci, John Godar, Marc S.  FA Date:  Bolt installation finished April 10, 2010, first ascent May 2, 2010. Source(s):  Mud’N Crud Forum, “Pinns - 3/16/08 TR,” also, telephone discussion with Jeff Lane April 12, 2010, and ascent of route by Brad Young right after its first ascent.

448.5  Hungry, Hungry Hippo  5.9 R *  Located on a northeast facing rock face which is directly behind the pillar on which the second pitch of Lighting Bolt Crack is located.  Start at the base of a north-facing slab (the main wall here faces northeast).  Climb a mossy chute/groove in the middle of this face to a low angle “shoulder” of rock. A few 5.7 moves lead to the first bolt. Three more bolts lead to a two bolt (and chain) anchor.  It is 130 feet from this anchor back to the start of the route. FA Party:  Jeff Lane, Robert Behrens.  FA Date:  March 16, 2008.  Source(s):  Mud’nCrud Forum, “Pinns - 3-16-08 TR,” ascent of route by Brad Young, May 2, 2010.

452.3 Donna Gee  5.8 R This route is located on Don Genaro slab, to the right of the 5.10a route there. Start in the same location as for the 5.10a route, but climb straight up to a narrow ledge 20 feet from the start. Cams here protect moves right and then up onto a ledge. Clip a bolt from this ledge (the original, very poorly placed, 1/4" compression bolt was replaced with a long 3/8" stainless steel bolt on February 7, 2011 by Joel Primrose). From the bolt, move right to a left-facing corner. This leads quickly to a notch which allows an exit up and right. Belay (using body position) on the other side of a rock ridge. Walk off up a gully. Pro: one set of cams from 1/2 inch to four inches, plus two additional two inch cams. FA Party: Unknown. FA Date: Unknown. Source(s): Discovery and rebolting of route February, 2011; ascent of route, April 9, 2011.

454.9 The Royal Flush 5.10b **  This route is on Casino Rock. It starts left of Crap Chute in a steep and prominent water chute (this feature is shown on the topo in the book on page 181). Fifteen feet up the chute is a fixed pin on the right. Above that, medium cams can be placed in holes  leading up to the first bolt (take a few 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inch pieces).  A steep bulge (5.9) through pockets gains the second bolt. Three more bolts lead to the route crux, a difficult, but well protected bulge (5.10b). The chute becomes low angle above the crux, quickly dropping the climbing to class four. Continue to belay at trees at the top of the chute. Walk off. All bolts were placed with hooks and are 3/8 inch by 3 inch. This route is definitely one of the best in Condor Gulch. FA Party: Fabrizio Bittner, Josh Mucci. FA Date: March 17, 2010. Source(s): Emails and photos by Josh Mucci, March 18, 2010; ascent of route by Brad Young and Jim Lundeen, March 21, 2010. This is a link to a copy of the topo from page 181 of the book. It has been modified to show The Royal Flush

457.8  Blackjack  5.9  This route is on Casino Rock, 200 feet right of High Stakes Breaks. Start in an obvious, dark, water streak (the streak can be seen in the photo on page 180 of the guidebook). Climb in the water streak (5.7 and 5.8, with some wild stemming) which takes some good gear to just below a bolt which is 60 feet off the ground. Move right onto a loose shelf from which the bolt can be clipped. A well protected, but intimidating 5.9 mantle/bulge leads to easy climbing and then to very easy climbing. Pass under a large chockstone before reaching a tree (belay here). Walk off. Pro: Very small to four inch (the four inch piece is critical), including extra one and two inch. The one bolt was placed with aid. It is a stainless steel, 3/8 inch Rawl. FA Party: Fabrizio Bittner, Josh Mucci. FA Date: November 9, 2009. Source(s): Email describing route from Josh Mucci; also, Brad Young ascent of route, March 21, 2010.

462.6  Initiation Fees  5.8 R*  This route is on a tall, northwest facing slab called The Forgotten Sister (named because it bears a strong resemblance to The First Sister).  The Forgotten Sister is northwest of, and right below, The Peanuts.  Although it cannot be seen from the trail, the whole Forgotten Sister can be seen well from Jamcrack Rock.  Note also, many pinnacles and sub-pinnacles dominate the area to the right/south of this slab, extending all the way to Doodlin’ Dody.  Approach by walking from the Condor Gulch Trail around to the north of The Peanuts and then down along the base of the formation.  Initiation Fees climbs the most prominent chute in the middle of the face.  A fixed piton (painted yellow) very low protects climbing to the first bolt. A second bolt is up and left. This is followed by a long but easier section which is protected using a very good, two-inch cam in a pocket. Two bolts protect the rest of the route (including one right at the exit from the chute). Although there isn't a lot of protection on this climb, what there is is fairly evenly spaced and the run-outs are within reason. It is 190 feet to the top of the sub-pinnacle which makes up the top of The Forgotten Sister.  There is no summit anchor; an excellent body position belay is easily arranged (and an easy-to-arrange Pinnacles rappel is necessary to descend about 20 feet to the ground behind the top of Forgotten Sister). FA Party:  John Godar, Josh Mucci. FA Date:  March 27, 2011. Source(s):  Posting to MudnCrud Forum, “Initiation Fees,” March 28, 2011; subsequent emails with the first ascent authors; ascent of route, April 9, 2011. Click on this link for a Forgotten Sister photo/topo prepared by John Godar.

462.8  Chute the Moon  5.6 *  Chute the Moon, like Initiation Fees, is on the Forgotten Sister.  It climbs a crack/left facing corner on the far right side of the formation.  The crack/corner runs 60 feet before turning into a wide chimney.  From this point, stay left of the chimney in a clean, easy, but unprotected water-chute.  This chute quickly becomes fourth class.  Continue to belay at a digger pine among the lowest of The Peanuts (the pine is 190 feet from the start of the climb).  Gear: to two inches (no bolts).  FA Party:  John and Sue Godar.  FA Date:  March, 2010.  Source(s):  Phone discussions with and emails from Josh Mucci and John Godar; photo-topo from John Godar; ascent of route, February, 2011. Click on this link for a Forgotten Sister photo/topo prepared by John Godar.


  
HIGH PEAKS

486.5  Forgettable Ewe 5.5 This route starts from the belay at the top of the first pitch of the route Lonely Sheepherder (route number 487). From that belay traverse left 25 feet out of the water streak, past a bolt, and into the next water streak. Climb that streak to the top. Belay at a unique pine which is growing horizontally. Walk off.  FA Party: Bruce Hildenbrand, Clint Cummins. FA Date: January 15, 2014.  Source(s): Mud’nCrud Forum, "Newly Established and found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)," posting by Hildenbrand, January 16, 2014.

557.7 Stepping Stone 5.9 Stepping Stone Pinnacle is a 35 foot high, free-standing formation located between the Tuff Dome area and Spike's Peak. It is about 150 feet south of the High Peaks Trail (i.e. toward Tuff Dome from that trail). The most commonly used climber's path from the High Peaks Trail to the Tuff Dome area passes right next to this pinnacle, on its north and west sides. The formation has a distinct, 20 foot high shoulder on its west side (the "stepping stone"). Easy and unprotected fifth class on the northwest side of the formation leads to the top of the shoulder. One bolt protects moves from this point to the top of the pinnacle. NOTE: The first ascent party used one bolt to protect the moves to the summit. Mostly this was because of the late hour in the day. The first ascent party intends to return and add a second lead bolt (so that a fall will not result in a broken ankle), but cannot do so until the 2012 raptor closures are lifted. ALSO: The summit anchor presently consists of one bolt, with one screw gate (also because of the late hour). This was used to hold the rope in place so that a "Pinnacles rappel" could be used to descend. The first ascent party intends to place a second summit bolt and to add chains to make a proper summit anchor; this, however, will also have to wait until the raptor closures are lifted later in 2012. EDIT: As of 1-15-13 the route has two lead bolts and a fall isn't likely to break an ankle now (the route's "R" sub-rating has now been removed). There is also now a two bolt summit anchor with equalized chains. FA Party: Gavin Emmons, Brad Young, Alacia Welch. FA Date: January 14, 2012. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.

560.2 Abuela Cochinita 5.8 ** This route is on the same face as, but to the right of, Miss Piggy. It starts 60 feet right of that route. Abuela Cochinita is easily visible 25 feet from the sharp turn in the trail which is 80 feet southwest of Dragonfly Dome (80 feet to the left of a person standing on the trail looking at Dragonfly Dome). Start with easy climbing to the first bolt, which is 15 feet up, on the right side of a large hole. Four more bolts lead up and left. A sixth bolt protects moves straight up a headwall to a two bolt anchor. Descend by moving over to the Miss Piggy two bolt anchor (placed by that route's first ascentionist in 2009), which is rigged for rappel. As a further note, Bob's grandmother was given the nickname "Cochinita," or "Cochie," by her big brother when she was an infant. The name stayed with her for 80 years. In Spanish, Abuela Cochinita means grandmother little pig, or, grandma piglet; a play on the next route to the left, Miss Piggy.  FA Party: Brad Young, Bob Walton. FA Date: April 13, 2010. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.

560.3  Poached Pig  5.10b (TR) **  The anchor bolts atop this route were discovered as the first ascent of Abuela Cochinita was being finished.  These (two) bolts are just over 15 feet right (west of) the anchor bolts for that route.  Start Poached Pig by climbing to the first bolt on Abuela Cochinita.  Continue straight up the (steep) face to the anchor bolts.  FA Party:  Unknown.  FA Date:  Unknown.  Source(s):  Discovery of the anchor bolts by Brad Young, April, 2010.  Toprope ascents of route by Jim McConachie, Brad Young, Laura and Steve Dawson, Alan Nilsson, Joel Primrose, Joe Denicola, February 6, 2011.

564.61  Where’s Waldo  5.10a **  Where’s Waldo is an excellent lead put up by a determined team drilling from stance only.  It is on the north-facing wall below Frothy Flake, 250 feet southeast of The Smokestack.  The route and the wall it climbs can be seen well from near The Lump.  Start the approach from the trail by walking to The Smokestack.  From the base of the route Swept Away, go over the saddle where the route Clean Sweep starts.  Move left/downhill/south here 100 feet to the top of wide dirt gully that descends under the north side of H&L Dome and the Flakes.  Move slightly down this gully, then quickly go up and right on a dirt ramp 80 feet to a saddle with a pine.  From the pine, move down a dirt ramp 70 feet before moving across a band of rock to the right and reaching the base of the climb.  The first bolt of Where’s Waldo is 10 feet off the ground, just up and left of a fractured loadstone.  A second bolt is four feet above that.  The third bolt is in a distinctive four foot by two foot depression/hole in the rock.  From the third bolt, climb left and up past more bolts to a water streak, then up to a two-bolt anchor (a total of seven bolts plus a slung knob protect this 80 foot long first pitch).  The second pitch climbs steep rock past two bolts to a low angle finish at the base of Frothy Flake, 30 feet up.  Continue back 20 feet to a two-bolt anchor.  A 70 meter rope allows a one-rope rappel to the ground from this upper anchor; a 60 meter rope requires two one-rope rappels.  FA Party:  Aaron McDonald, Jon Cochran, Bob Walton, Levi Goldman. FA Date: January 12, 2014. Source(s): Discussions about route with Aaron McDonald and Jon Cochran, followed by an ascent of the route on October 26, 2014.

571.81 Quasimodo Pinnacle  5.7 R A1  Quasimodo Pinnacle is a taller formation 80 feet southeast of (uphill from) The Keep.  It is 80 yards from Eggshell (that is, closer to the route Eggshell than is The Keep).  The formation is flanked on its east and west sides by shorter rocks.  It also has a pronounced shoulder on its south side.  Climb the rock immediately west of the main pinnacle (very easy fifth class).  Once on top, throw a rope over the pronounced shoulder.  Secure one end and jumar the rope (the length of this ascent is much shorter on the west side than on the east).  Once on the shoulder, exposed climbing leads a few feet to a bolt.  The summit is just under 15 feet above the bolt.  There are three bolts on the summit, two are very old and one is new.  Chains facilitate the rappel.  FA Party:  Unknown.  FA Date:  Unknown.  Source(s):  Discovery of the lead bolt and a summit bolt by Jim McConachie, Brad Young and Bob Walton, January, 2011.  Subsequent ascent of route by Brad Young and Jim McConachie, February 7, 2011.

571.83  The Keep  5.8 R  The Keep is a 45-foot high, cone-shaped pinnacle found among several other pinnacles in the area between Dragonfly Dome (in The High Peaks) and The Citadel (on The West Side).  The Keep in particular is located on a direct line between Dragonfly Dome and the back of The Citadel, 150 yards from each formation.  It is also about 150 yards due east of The Egg.  The group of pinnacles can be approached either from The High Peaks or from The West Side.  From The High Peaks walk to the base of the route Eggshell (not The Egg, which is a different formation farther east).  From that route continue downhill along the west side of the formation to its lowest point.  Continue from that lowest point west across the hillside.  The first pinnacle in this group is 80 yards from Eggshell and slightly lower in elevation (this first pinnacle has much shorter rocks on its east and west sides and a pronounced shoulder on its south side).  The Keep is below (northwest) of the first pinnacle in this group, 100 yards from Eggshell.  To approach The Keep from The West Side, hike to the back side of The Citadel.  A fairly brush free approach can be made to The Keep and rocks near it from this point, 150 yards uphill along the top of a low ridge.  Also, from the back of The Citadel, looking south (uphill), The Keep and other formations can be seen as follows:  a larger formation, called Sunkist Dome, is visible to the right a little less than 150 yards away (look for a very large, round area of orange lichen high on its north side).  One hundred feet to the left of Sunkist Dome is a 25-foot high pinnacle that blends into the terrain behind it and which is between Sunkist Dome and The Keep.  One hundred more feet to the left of this small rock is The Keep which is fairly uniform in shape, appearing like a steep, upside down cone.  The Keep has a route on its uphill (south) side.  Loose 5.7 leads 12 feet to a basketball-size lodestone.  A few feet past the lodestone is a ledge.  Clip a bolt from this ledge (the bolt is 15 feet up and right of the lodestone).  Crux moves above the bolt lead to a horizontal crack (protection to two inches) and then easier climbing to the summit.  There is a two bolt summit anchor (one bolt is new).  FA Party:  Unknown, but, given the style of climbing and bolting (very solid Star Dryvin bolts including one placed in an incredibly solid lodestone, a one bolt original summit anchor and very bold, runout climbing), possibly Glen Denny and Gary Colliver.  FA Date:  Unknown.  Source(s):  Self, discovery and ascent of previously unreported route (ascent with Jim McConachie and Bob Walton).

571.85  Party of Three  5.7 R  This route is on the southeast side of Sunkist Dome.  Sunkist Dome is 200 feet northwest of The Keep (there is a 25 foot high pinnacle about midway between the two).  Sunkist is named for the large area of bright orange lichen on its north side (easy to see from the back side of The Citadel).  Start Party of Three with 15 feet of class four up a mossy face with holes.  This leads to a broad, flat terrace and the beginning of the roped climbing.  From the terrace, climb 15 feet straight up over holes to a slab (sling a grapefruit-size knob for protection).  An up-and-right crack at the top of the slab takes protection to 1 ½ inches.  Easy moves lead five more feet to a small ledge from which a bolt can be clipped.  Continue up and right in a shallow groove.  Easier moves lead a few feet more to the summit.  There is a two bolt summit anchor (with chains).  FA Party:  Jim McConachie, Brad Young, Bob Walton.  FA Date:  January 15, 2011.  Source(s):  Self, part of the first ascent party.

578.9 Feeling Lucky Punk  5.6 This route is on a separate formation located 45 feet due west of The Lump (toward Dragonfly Dome). The route can almost be seen in the photo on page 232 of the 2007 guidebook - it is directly under The Lump's route number (579) in that photo. Look for two bolts on the left side of the southeast face of this separate formation. Starting directly below the first bolt, continue 40 feet to a two bolt summit anchor. FA Party: Jon Cochran, Aaron McDonald. FA Date: December 7, 2013.  Source(s): Report of the route from Cochran and McDonald (in person), December 14, 2013; subsequent ascent of the route on December 28, 2013.

579.1 High Peaks Drifter  5.8 High Peaks Drifter is the second route to be made on The Lump; it starts 15 feet right of the regular route on that formation (route 579). There are two bolts. The two routes join above their second bolts and share the last few moves to the summit. FA Party: Jon Cochran, Aaron McDonald. FA Date: December 7, 2013.  Source(s): Report of the route from Cochran and McDonald (in person), December 14, 2013; subsequent ascent of the route on December 28, 2013.

579.5  What I’ve Been Missing Out On  5.7  This route is on the southwest (downhill) face of a separate formation which is 150 feet southeast from The Lump (downhill/toward Jamcrack Rock).  Approach the face by hiking down the east side of the formation (the side opposite The Lump).  Climb an up-and-right ramp with good protection.  About halfway up the ramp continue straight up in a water streak.  The route is 80 feet long.  Belay in a notch on the back side of the pinnacle.  Walk off (down a short chute to the east, then up and around).  Gear: small/medium gear, to one 3 1/2 inch piece (no bolts).  FA Party:  John Godar, Josh Mucci.  FA Date:  January 20, 2010.  Source(s):  Discussion with Mucci, photo/topo by Godar forwarded by Mucci; ascent of route, February, 2011.  Here is a topo/photo provided by John Godar (regardless of what is says on the photo, take the 3 1/2 inch piece).

579.6  Joaquin the Dog  5.9 R  This serious lead ascends the same face as the route What I’ve Been Missing Out On.  Start 25 feet up and right of What I’ve Been Missing Out On.  Small to medium stoppers protect moves to the first bolt, 25 feet up.  Move slightly left from here (Joaquin the Dog and What I’ve Been Missing Out On converge momentarily here).  Reach the second bolt 15 feet above the first (possible four inch cam between the bolts).  Continue up and slightly left after the second bolt; the rock here is pretty bad.  Reach a headwall/buttress; stay to its left, moving toward the notch where What I’ve Been Missing Out On ends (small to medium cams can be used to the left of the headwall).  Continue to the notch before climbing 10 more feet to the formation’s high point and a two-bolt anchor. FA Party: Jeremy Hadland, Jon Cochran.  FA Date:  January 2014.  (These first ascentionists did the route with no prior knowledge about the route What I’ve Been Missing Out On.)  Source(s): Discussion and ascent of the route with Jon Cochran on October 26, 2014.



WEST SIDE

640.1 The Wolf 5.7 R  Start as for The Lamb, on The Shepherd. Clip the bolt on that route and immediately move right up a (different) low angle chute aiming for a large lodestone 20 feet above. Small gear (a bomber small/medium nut and a small cam) can be placed on the right side of the lodestone. Continue straight up 12 feet to a good stance and a second bolt. Fifteen feet of sustained, and run out 5.7 leads to a mantle onto a large block (The Microwave Mantle). A third bolt is five feet above the block. Move slightly right and then up to a stance just below a headwall. Clip a fourth bolt (it is six feet above the third bolt, but it is in a scoop, and is invisible from the start). The route ends where it connects to the normal Shepherd walk-off. One bolt was placed for an anchor. It is on the "walk-off" side of the sub-pinnacle near where the route ends. Use it with body-position for a belay. All bolts are Rawl, 3/8 inch x 3 1/4 inch; all were placed from stance. FA Party: Josh Mucci (roped solo). FA Date: February 20 2009. Source(s): Emails from first ascentionist, subsequent ascent of route.

707.3  Manatee  5.3  This route is on a formation that is behind (north of) Sub Three Pinnacle (it isn’t shown on the map on page 282). There is a 20 foot, grassy corridor between the north side of Sub Three and the south side of Manatee (although the route isn't on this side of Manatee, it is on its north side, which is about 60 feet away from Sub Three).  Solo Manatee's north face.  Steeper moves down low are the route crux; they are followed by scrambling to the top. The route involves about 35 feet of climbing total.  Descend a short, class four groove on the formation's northeast side.   FA Party:  Aaron McDonald, John Cook (near-simultaneous free solos).  FA Date:  January 5, 2013.  Source(s):  Emails with John Cook, January 7 and January 8, 2013.

708.5  S Curve 5.7 This route climbs an "S" pattern of rock on the southwest corner of Tower Four (the route S Curve is on the opposite side of Tower Four from Route 708). The route, and the S pattern, can be seen very well while standing between Tower Three and Sub Three Pinnacle (look east). Approach from the north/uphill side of Tower Four, along that tower's northwest side, to the top of two large chockstones and a shoulder of rock on the southwest side of Tower Four (the 80 foot approach is class three, with maybe a class four move or two). Use a bolt on the shoulder of rock for a belay anchor (above a chimney). Start climbing in a crack that curves up and left (gear from one to two inches). Two bolts protect moves to a stance on the south side of the tower. One more bolt protects moves onto the summit. A two bolt anchor is 15 feet back from the route's top-out point. This anchor allows a rappel down the northwest side of the formation. FA Party: John and Kathy Cook, Brad Young, Bob Walton.  FA Date:  November 17, 2013.  Source(s):  Self, part of first ascent party.

709.1  Crowley Tower - Tower Five - The 200 Pound Club  5.0  The north side of Tower Five is a broad, low angle face.  The standard, class two route is on the right (west) edge of this face.  This newer class four route ascends a clean water chute in the middle of that face (about 50 feet to the left/east of the class two route).  Forty five feet, no protection.  FA Party:  Tyler Martin and Josh Mucci (simultaneous free solo).  FA Date:  January 10, 2010.  Source(s):  Discussion with first ascent parties; subsequent ascent of route.

709.5  Cover Girl  5.8 *  This route is in a water streak on the west-facing cliff directly
above and several hundred feet farther back (northeast) from If We Bolt It They Will
Come.  Approach from near the Crowley Towers/Balconies saddle, through a prominent
notch between small ridges, down to the base of the route.  Six bolts lead up and then up and slightly right to a two
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« Reply #1 on: February 10, 2009, 08:48:40 AM »

Continued from above post (the site has a maximum words-per-post limit).


709.93  The Back Nine  5.10a **  The Back Nine is the left-most route of three routes on the tallest and southeast-most of The Balconies Bumps.  This bump is 50 yards southeast of Balconies Bumps - South Route (this is also 150 yards southeast of the lowest point on the ridge which is between The Crowley Towers and the top of The Balconies).  The Back Nine climbs past nine bolts on mostly good rock and fabulous holes to a spectacular finish.  This route shares a two bolt anchor with Keller Arete and The 800 Club. Pro: bolts only (nine of them).  FA Party:  Brad Young, Jim McConachie, Jeff Lane, Tonya Nilsson.  FA Date:  December 3, 2011.  Source(s):  Self, part of the first ascent party.

709.94  The Keller Arete  5.8  The blunt arete right of The Back Nine and left of The 800 Club. Start 15 feet up and right of the absolute toe of the arete. Cams in holes (to 1 ¼ inch) protect the first 20 feet to a bolt. Four more bolts protect climbing to the top of the arete and then to the same anchor as The 800 Club. The crux is above the fourth bolt and that bolt is hard to see - it is to the right of the center of the arete and somewhat hidden in a pocket. Walk off. FA Party: Brad Young, Robert Behrens, Bob Walton, Phil Keller, Josh Mucci. FA Date: December 11, 2010. Source: Self, part of the first ascent party.

709.95  The 800 Club  5.7 *  This route is in a water chute on the northeast face of a large pinnacle 50 yards southeast  of Balconies Bumps - Second Bump (this is also 150 yards southeast of the lowest point on the ridge which is between The Crowley Towers and the top of The Balconies).  The face is 75 feet high (this is the tallest and southeast-most of The Balconies Bumps).  Climb the obvious shallow and steepening water chute; two pieces of gear to three inches protect easy moves to the first bolt.  Continue past two more bolts to a low angle, run-out class four finish.  Two anchor bolts are 15 feet left (south) of the top of the chute.  FA Party:  Brad Young, Josh Mucci, Steve
Ochinang, Robert Behrens, Tyler Martin, Tricia Young, Phil Keller, Brent Keller, Kristin Keller, Robert Walton, Jim McConachie, Joe Hornof, Jeff Lane.  FA Date:  January 10, 2010.  Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.

711.2  Gold Line  5.9 R *  This route ascends a water streak that starts well up and right of If We Bolt It They Will Come (it starts near the top of the up-and-right ramp that makes up the first pitch of the route Desperate Abandon). Climb a deep water streak/chute which cannot be seen well from the ground.  Three bolts protect 50 feet of climbing to a two bolt anchor on the right. FA Party: Alan Nilsson, Brad Young, Jim McConachie, Dennis Erik S.  FA Date:  December 18, 2011.  Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
Here is a photo topo that shows this route and others nearby (the photo was taken from West Side parking).

711.3  Desperate Abandon 5.6 R  This route starts just right of If We Bolt It They Will Come.  Move up a long, wide, up-and-right class three and four ramp (the start of the ramp is shown on the topo as “mossy slab” on page 286 of the guidebook).  After three hundred feet, pass a very deep water streak on the left.  Belay at a single bolt on the main wall, above/to the right of and outside of the streak.  From this belay, continue up the ramp, which narrows and eventually becomes a face.  There is one bolt 35 feet up this second pitch - right where the wall gets steeper.  Sustained 5.6 climbing leads past the bolt and then to the right, into a gully.  There is no summit anchor. Walk off the the northwest (under the route Cover Girl), or move down to the bolt anchor for the route Gold Line and rappel back to the class three and four ramp. (This climb was discovered because of a long length of 7/16 inch Goldline which was visible for years, fixed on the route, running from the upper bolt to the top of the cliff where it was left “lassoed” over a horn.)  FA Party:  Unknown. FA Date: Unknown. Source(s): Self, discovery of old bolts in 2010, ascent of route with Jim McConachie, December 2011.
Here is a photo topo that shows this route and others nearby (the photo was taken from West Side parking).

711.6  The Inn Crowd  5.6 **  The Inn Crowd starts 100 yards to the south (climber's right) of If We Bolt It They Will Come. It starts to the right of the class three/four ramp which leads up to the routes Desperate Abandon and Gold Line. Look for a slight, up-and-right weakness/ramp that allows passage between upper and lower rotten headwalls. The first bolt on the route can be seen about 20 feet above the ground (the climbing to this bolt is very easy). A total of ten bolts on the first pitch (5.6) lead up and right (at about a 45 degree angle). It is 115 feet to a three bolt belay on a beach ball size lodestone (bring and use slings on this pitch). The second pitch continues right past one bolt and then continues straight up past five more to another three bolt anchor (5.5, six bolts total on this pitch). It is 75 feet from the top of the first pitch to the top of the second. Descend by scrambling down the Desperate Abandon ramp (start with a very exposed scramble from the second pitch bolt anchor onto the ramp), or by rappel. Note, while this route can be rappelled with one rope, and while the rappel from the top of the second pitch to the top of the first is only 75 feet, the rappel from the top of the first pitch to the ground is 118 feet (the last 50 of which are completely overhanging) and this second rappel requires a 70 meter rope! The Inn Crowd is a very sunny climb; it's in the sun from early morning until the sun sets. It is a good route for cold days. Finally, two further items of explanation: First, the second pitch of this route ends at a stance on a steeper section of wall just below the ramp and about 20 feet below the one protection bolt on the route Desperate Abandon. The route ends here so that no bolts were added to or within sight of Desperate Abandon and so that the well protected nature of The Inn Crowd was not "diluted" by joining/finishing on the fairly run out upper part of that route. Second, the well protected nature of The Inn Crowd should be understood (and forgiven) since the combined ages of the first ascentionists exceed 350 years. FA Party:  Brad Young, John Cook, Kathy Cook, Tricia Young, Joel Primrose, Alan Nilsson, Dennis Erik Mud, Jim McConachie. FA Date: January 5, 2014. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
Here is a photo topo that shows this route and others nearby (the photo was taken from West Side parking).
And here is a topo which gives more detail.

711.7 The Brosseau Finish  5.7 **  This route is an alternate second pitch for The Inn Crowd. Climb The Inn Crowd's first pitch and then start up its second pitch. At the third bolt of that pitch, move right, past one bolt and then into the obvious water streak. Four more bolts and one very good slung knob protect climbing in the streak (eight bolts total for the pitch). At the top of the streak, exit right and continue eight feet more to a two bolt anchor. Descend by making a short (45 foot) rappel to the top of the second pitch of The Inn Crowd (and continue down from there). FA Party:  Brad Young, John Cook, Kathy Cook. FA Date: January 12, 2014. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
Here is a photo topo that shows this route and others nearby (the photo was taken from West Side parking).
And here is a topo which gives more detail.

740.5  Somewhere  5.6 R *  Reported long ago to David Rubine by Jon Cochran (as part of S.V.M. Post 200 Climbers), by way of a letter and a “map.”  Jon wrote, “lies on low angle somewhat flaky face to the right of Nexus.  Maybe 4+/- bolts.”  Bolts reported as 2 ¼ inch Star Dryvin.  No rating given.  FA Party: Crile Carvey, Jon Cochran. FA Date:  1984. Source(s):  Correspondence by Jon Cochran to David Rubine, given November, 2008 by Rubine to Young as part of huge box of old archival material.
EDIT, December 14, 2008: The route is 5.6 R *. It is 500 feet right (northeast) of Nexus, right of steep, broken cliffs and 70 feet right of a tiered waterstreak. Look for an obvious, low-angle, but high slab. Four bolts, the first 30 feet up, the fourth 100 feet up. Continue straight up past the fourth bolt, using several OK slung knobs for additional protection. It is 170 feet to the rim. No belay anchors, use body position. The walk down descent described for Nexus ('07 guidebook, page 297) starts 150 feet to the right (northeast) from where the climb ends. Additional source: ascent by Brad Young and Erik Bratton.

769.5  The Jungle Slab - Original Route  5.8 R  The Jungle Slab is a large, mossy, east facing slab, north of Thundering Herd, 100 yards north of the metal gangway encountered when hiking north out of the Balconies Caves.  It is also 150 feet south of the Balconies Cliff/Balconies Cave trail junction.  In 2010, a huge oak fell down from right in front of The Jungle Slab routes; its fallen trunk now points directly at the start of Original Route.  Obvious third class leads up six feet to ledges from which this and the next route start.  Original Route climbs the slot which is above the ledge.  The slot has sections of loose rock.  It protects with one one inch cam, one five inch cam and two fixed pitons.  An ancient bolt at the top of the slot then protects moves to the right, six feet, to a second bolt.   From the second bolt easy slab climbing leads 20 feet up and right to an obvious, large hole/shallow alcove and a third bolt.  Slab climbing then continues 30 feet up and slightly left to a fourth (ancient) bolt.  Fifteen more feet of slab lead straight up to a large ledge and the end of the climbing.  A pine 10 feet left of the top-out provides a belay anchor.  It is 98 feet from this pine to the start ledge.  It appears that this route was originally an aid climb and that aid pitons were used to get to the top of the slot (the amount of loose rock in and around the slot in 2010 was not indicative of prior free climbing, but apparent pin-scars and the bolt pattern above the slot indicate that the route had been climbed).  Also the second bolt was replaced in December, 2008 by Brad Young; the replacement bolt was positioned approximately six inches from the original bolt.  The third bolt was also replaced in December, 2008 by Brad Young.  Due to rock quality, this replacement bolt was placed 18 inches from the original bolt.  FA Party: Unknown.  FA Date: Unknown, but likely between 1965 and 1980.  Source(s):  Self, discovery of old bolts in 2007, ascent of route with Dennis Erik S and Phillip Keller, March, 2010.

769.51  The Jungle Slab - Dysentery Direct  5.8 R  Third class up to the same ledge from which Original Route starts.  Move twenty feet right of Original Route to a large lodestone which is 18 feet above the ground.  Belay here from one old bolt.  From the lodestone, climb to a second bolt 10 feet higher.  Move past this bolt to a ledge (5.8, mossy).  Move left on the ledge.  Slung knobs and several two to four inch cams protect a second crux directly below the second bolt of Original Route.  A fall from this second crux would be serious; the cams and slung knobs gain some quality only by their quantity.  It appears that this route was started but never completed (ample loose rock, the very bad - before replacement - quality of the second bolt, plus the extreme seriousness of the second crux all make it seem nearly certain that the party that placed the two bolts then abandoned the route).  The second bolt was replaced by Phillip Keller on March 7, 2010 (the original bolt pulled out with almost no effort).  FA Party:  Dennis Erik S., Brad Young, Phillip Keller.  FA Date: March 7, 2010.  Source(s): Self, discovery of old bolts in 2007, ascent of route with Dennis Erik S and Phillip Keller, March, 2010.

815.4 Los Banditos 5.10a A1 **  The natural continuation of the Bandits in Bondage pitches. Four pitches. Approach via the first pitch of the route The West Face (route # 811). Fifty feet past the end of this pitch (to the north, The West Face traverses after its first pitch) is a small meadow. Los Banditos starts from this meadow, 100 feet right of the start of Rock Around the Clock. Pitch one (60 feet): start on a small pedestal of rock. Six aid bolts on an overhanging face lead up and left to a small roof which is at the bottom of a water streak. Two more aid bolts lead over the roof. Intimidating free moves from the eighth bolt (5.9) lead to a ledge and one directional bolt. The first pitch anchor is 5 feet to the right. Pitch two (110 feet): This excellent pitch continues up the obvious water chute past 10 bolts (10 includes the directional from the first pitch). Getting into the chute is 5.9; two bulges higher in the chute are each 5.10a. The pitch finishes with 15 feet of easy slab to a stance and a two bolt belay.  Pitch 3 (195 feet): Continue up the chute past five bolts on increasingly easy and runout climbing. The crux is after the second bolt (5.7). Large knobs can be slung for additional protection. One hundred fifty feet up, the chute branches. Take the straight up branch (that is, don't take the branch to the left). A two bolt anchor is obvious on a low angle slab, 30 feet below the bottom of the water chute which is descended as part of the Old Original Rappel Bypass variation (route # 836).  Pitch Four (90 feet): Climb the deeper chute which is 30 feet left (north) of the chute which makes up the Rappel Bypass (these chutes are obvious on page 338 of the guidebook). Small cams (the only gear on the route) can be used to protect the moves into the chute (5.5); the chute then becomes class three and four (and can be further protected by slung knobs). End on the top of Machete Ridge, at a pine which is 30 feet from the end of Old Original's third pitch. FA Party: Jim McConachie, Brad Young, Erik Bratton, Dennis Erik S. FA Date: December 6, 2009 (route was started in October, 2007). Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
Click on this link for a revised topo from page 326 of the book. It has been modified to show Los Banditos.

824.1 Are You Inexperienced  5.7  Start this route 12 feet right of route 824, Shortly Tooloose. Three bolts lead up and right (follow an up-and-right seam/shallow corner) to a nice stance on a large lodestone. Two more bolts lead up and left to a bolt anchor 55 feet from the ground (this anchor consists of an odd, pre-existing, previously unused, two-bolt combination and one new bolt with chain). Although there is some good climbing on this well protected route, its upper part crosses the band of rotten rock that is so prominent on this part of The Machete (and it's pretty rotten here). FA Party: Kevin DeWeese, Brad Young. FA Date: December 15, 2013. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
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« Reply #2 on: February 25, 2009, 03:16:16 PM »

New addition today, The Wolf 5.7 R (see above).

New addition Feb 10, 2009, The Road to Bagalaar 5.8 R (see above).
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« Reply #3 on: February 26, 2009, 02:24:56 AM »

Quote
24.1  The Road To Bagalaar 5.8 R

I heard about this one from Fabrizio. Sounds like you can continue the route upwards??
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« Reply #4 on: February 28, 2009, 10:06:01 AM »

That was the original intent to climb up to and out the 5 foot roof crack.  Upon reaching the ledge, the headwall and roof crack were deemed too Bagalaar to continue to the summit.  Thus the name "The Road to Bagalaar" 
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« Reply #5 on: May 11, 2009, 10:12:13 AM »

Newly reported route
Gavins blank " I forgot the name I will find it then at it here"
Rating not sure I have not climbed it. 
Start on Stupendous Man, pull the mantle then lead out to an old rusty quarter inch bolt.  Clip the bolt then tend up and left to a corner.  Place some ok gear in some quality Pinnacles Mud.   Move up and left toward Lithium, through the corner of the arch,  where there are some large knobs.  Clip the last bolt on Lithium and finish on Lithium.

I suppose I should wait to have all the information but I wanted to get this in before I forgot.

I heard of a variation where someone went straight up the face below Stupendous man, then pulled the mantle, (without clipping the bolt).
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« Reply #6 on: May 11, 2009, 10:19:16 AM »

Sounds like it might be a worthwhile route - especially if that old quarter incher was replaced.
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« Reply #7 on: May 11, 2009, 01:55:50 PM »



I heard of a variation where someone went straight up the face below Stupendous man, then pulled the mantle, (without clipping the bolt).

I heard the same or something similar.
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« Reply #8 on: May 12, 2009, 09:04:20 PM »

Is this the bolt just under the small roof/right facing corner (left of STMAN) then up the face to the bolted belay ledge?  I have thought about replacing it, whats the word on the route?  Seems possible to TR it before or to replace the bolt, the climbing looks hard around the corner.

I have looked at that line for a while and would be happy to "Tune it up"
Mucci
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« Reply #9 on: May 12, 2009, 09:38:20 PM »

That is the bolt.  Rap in from the bolts at the top of Lithium or Stupendous Man, or a tree on top.

  I think the route is 10 b/c.  Talk to Gavin to get the real name and the juicy details.  I heard the moves through the corner over the bulge are not that bad and kinda of fun.

I looks cool from the ground with the big jugs hanging out there to grab onto.
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« Reply #10 on: May 15, 2009, 03:27:28 PM »

Hey gang, thought I should finally get on this forum with some information on the climb between Stupendous Man and Lithium... Though I didn't see it in Brad's book, I assumed someone must have done it before, otherwise I would have added some details here earlier. If no one else has done it and mine was the first ascent (a couple months ago now), I called it "Tangent," probably 5.10a/b at this point. (Though a couple others mentioned "Gavin's Tangent" as a possibility... You be the judge!)

At any rate, looks like most folks have a sense of where it goes, though there are a couple variations from the ground. To lead it, start at Stupendous Man, go over the roof section, then clip up to the old quarter incher Brad mentioned. From there, follow the instructions from "My Name is Mud" above on May 11. From the rusty quarter inch bolt to the last bolt on Lithium, the best place for pro is midway, in the side-cling/under-cling move as you're stretching left... Given the potentially crumbly quality of the rock, a couple pieces are recommended! Using Metolius TCUs, I think yellow to red are usable, and possibly a bit smaller.

The variation start is good too, a bit more challenging (closer to 5.10b/c or so, I'd guess), but tougher to do on lead, probably safer on TR, due to the lack of good pro options until you're over the roof mantle. Start between Lithium and Stupendous Man on the thin face, climb up to the roof section but stay left of the usual moves for Stupendous Man, then over the roof to the rusty quarter inch bolt, and on up from there. The thin face start is pretty cool, I think. Iztok's friend Tomek (sp?) was the first to give the variation a go.

Both variations are good... The moves themselves aren't super hard, but definitely typify the "Pinnacles experience" of climbing on some potentially unstable exposed rock / knobs and wondering if they'll hold (and praying they do).

Hope that helps!

P.S. Redoing that rusty quarter inch bolt sounds like a great idea. Any takers?
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« Reply #11 on: May 15, 2009, 03:36:28 PM »

Brad -

I wasn't sure if you wanted me to provide details in the route list you have going according to your system above, or if you want to go ahead and do so. Let me know.

Gavin
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« Reply #12 on: May 15, 2009, 03:38:39 PM »

Thanks for the word Gavin, Going up sunday to replace that bolt and the right anchor bolt on "The Roof".

OHHHHHHHHHHHH it's gonna be hot!!!!!!!!!!!!
Mucci
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« Reply #13 on: May 15, 2009, 04:11:17 PM »

Gavin, I like "Gavin's Tangent." Take some credit where it is due. I'd put "possibly" or even "probably" after "FA" and before the details. Maybe it's been done and maybe someone placed the bolt and bailed. Or it was an aid route, or a girdle traverse. Et-cetera. No-one will ever know.

On formatting and the list above, I'll enter it later tonight, or you can as you want. I tried to develop the format to help some future dumb sap who does the 2023 edition of the book - I thought that a uniform format type of entry, listing all information then known might help prevent said future sap from having to chase all over hellangone looking for rumors. That plus I think it is quickly readable and understandable.

Well done.

And Josh, if you're there suffering and you've got time. both bolts on the upper part of Gutter are pretty bad. Thanks for spending time and $ to benefit all of us other climbers.

EDIT: I guess the way I set up the original list (as one entry), only I can add to that entry. So, yeah I'll try to add it in tonight or Sunday. Be sure to let me know if I miss on some details.
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« Reply #14 on: May 15, 2009, 06:48:07 PM »

Brad, sounds good in regards to posting a description, and thanks for the details... I'll check after it's posted.

Mucci, be careful in the heat! It's supposed to be over a hundred degrees the next few days! Yikes!

Gavin
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« Reply #15 on: May 15, 2009, 07:38:58 PM »

OK, Gavin, Dennis, there is a start. I tried to combine both your entries (plus my memory) into one concise listing. I didn't list variants, since most Pinns routes have a ton of the same. As always I've chosen the lower of two grades from a split grade. Also, I have no idea about stars, so make suggestions. Finally, the number, ending in ".9" seemed right given that it starts on Stupendous Man.  Gavin, I'm guessing on the FA date, and it sounds like it may have been before this year. Do you have anything more specific?

Next step (for me anyway) is to print it out in the same type style and font size as the Pinns Guide. Then glue it in the book. Then climb it next season.

Gavin, come on up to granite at least once this season. Buncha Pinns climbers can show you around the Sonora Pass areas.
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« Reply #16 on: May 15, 2009, 07:48:20 PM »

AH, 100 Degrees? Bring it on........Training for this years wall season!  I will try and replace all four, if not I will bump the Roof anchor till the fall. 

Have fun this weekend gentlemen,
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« Reply #17 on: May 16, 2009, 06:44:10 AM »

Brad, thanks for the update; sounds good to me. Okay, for FA, I'll throw out March 5, 2009 as the date, near as I can tell. I probably got on it at least a bit before that as well, but that date I can remember for certain.

About Sonora Pass: yeah, that sounds fun. I think Alacia and I should be passing through that way in July, but if that's too late I could probably find a way up earlier too. I'll let you know.
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« Reply #18 on: May 17, 2009, 07:29:34 PM »

107 degrees of Bolt Manipulation

Oh man was it hot at the Pinns Today!  Started at "Gavins Tangent", Placed a SS 3/8 x 3.25 w/ SS Fixe Hanger 2" left and 3" above the Old buttonhead.  The clipping stance was not altered. 
Then came the most punishing bolt removal of my life, Couldn't get the Tuning fork under the hanger (concaved placement).  Out came the 4 foot Modified Crowbar!  It became apparent very quickly how much I have to learn about removal.  It felt as if I was cast into Hell for a hard day of labor, then spit out into a hot spring every 29 minutes just to make sure I was Properly suffering!  After 2 hours of a knuckle wrecking crowbar party, the sucker poped out! Good lookin bolt if I may say so, Could still see original metal that had not rusted through.  Whipped out my cake batter and talus mix and concocted a patch that mom would be proud of!

Did some moves on the fixed line, breaking out and left under the roof was fun and the moves didn't seem that bad, .9?  Looks like a great line.  Another variation one might choose is moving out and right from the roof, up the RFC which is wide, No pro above but could TR no problem.

Things I learned while replacing 1 bolt in 3 hours:
It's hard to start at the top and go down (got off route looking for the Gutter sorry Brad)
Never go to Pinns when it is over 100 degrees!
My method of removal is not the quickest.
Gather Many types of gravel/talus/dirt/munge for fine tuning the patch.
Yates bolt bags are the Best!

Hope somebody sends this thing, after all it has natural pro which is a plus in my book.
Mucci

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« Reply #19 on: May 17, 2009, 09:11:51 PM »

Nice, Josh. Thanks for the work.
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« Reply #20 on: May 17, 2009, 09:25:02 PM »

oh man, that's crazy! 

Pinns season is over, for now. Smiley

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« Reply #21 on: May 18, 2009, 03:07:49 PM »

Mucci,

Thank you for fixing that.  I am sure that route will get a few ascents when it cools down a bit.

I am thinking of going down there is weekend.  If I do I will stay in the shade.
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« Reply #22 on: May 19, 2009, 07:15:25 AM »

Quote
I am thinking of going down there is weekend.  If I do I will stay in the shade.

I'd join ya, but I'll be diving in the Channel Islands. Tough life.  Ciappa
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« Reply #23 on: May 19, 2009, 08:26:01 AM »

glad you're able to get out. take loads of pics of fishes.
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« Reply #24 on: May 19, 2009, 03:11:50 PM »

and don't let the sharkies get ya! Out
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« Reply #25 on: May 20, 2009, 08:44:46 AM »

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and don't let the sharkies get ya!

Don't have to worry this trip. South Africa in October....different story. For a mere $170 bucks I get to hop into a cage check them out.  Thumb Up Dude

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« Reply #26 on: May 20, 2009, 10:18:43 AM »

sweet, bring the chicken meat
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« Reply #27 on: June 06, 2009, 04:08:17 PM »

Hey Gang -

So, I have another question about a route on Discovery Wall... I did it today and don't see it on Brad's list or in the update list. I'm not sure if it qualifies as a full route or if folks have already been through this, but here goes.

It starts at the base of Swallow Crack and follows up a third or half of Swallow Crack. From there, you go straight up over an overhanging arete and right-facing dihedral (a bit of both) with some interesting pinches and a finger crack bit or two, through a few more burly moves, then into the 5.10b crux of Jorgie's Continuation and up through the rest of that climb. Between the Swallow Crack and Jorgie's Continuation parts, the moves were committing, with a couple of cool shifting balance bits. I would guess the moves are 5.11a, and definitely a bit more stout for shorter folks.

At any rate, just thought I'd throw that out there and see if other folks have been on it. In Brad's book on pg. 56 the moves take you between the middle "74" (Swallow Crack) and the first "77" (Jorgie's Continuation), over the right-facing dihedral depicted.
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« Reply #28 on: June 07, 2009, 01:07:37 PM »

Here we get into shades of gray. In a lot of Pinns areas "connections" and "link-ups" are easy and plentiful. When does a minor variation become a separate route, worthy of listing as such? Probably when climbers reach consensus that it's independent "enough."

So with the route Gavin describes, is it worthy of listing as a "separate route?" In my opinion, the fact that it is a lead and not a toprope weighs in heavily on the "separate route" side. Also an issue, is how much of it is an independent line (i.e. previously unclimbed rock)? Sounds to me like a significant amount of it is. In fact, it sounds like it covers more previously unclimbed rock  than Triage, for example, which only covers a few feet of new ground.

Pick a name, Gavin, give it a rating. What's the FA date?

Finally, Gavin, you're doing this type of new stuff on Discovery now what, monthly? You're obviously bored. Cure the boredom, get on up here for a while in the off season.
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« Reply #29 on: June 07, 2009, 01:44:39 PM »

At this rate Gavin's going to have that girdle figured out. Oops did I spill the beans?
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« Reply #30 on: June 08, 2009, 10:29:47 PM »

1 Vote for "Jorgie Swallows"
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« Reply #31 on: June 09, 2009, 06:34:30 AM »

Quote
Finally, Gavin, you're doing this type of new stuff on Discovery now what, monthly? You're obviously bored. Cure the boredom, get on up here for a while in the off season.
Thought the cure for boredom was do climb every route in the guidebook.

1 more vote for Jorgie Swallows
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« Reply #32 on: June 09, 2009, 07:35:33 AM »

"Thought the cure for boredom was do climb every route in the guidebook."

Well, I've never been bored. But I only climb there during the right season.

EDITED after posting (to make it easier for simple minds Smiley )
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« Reply #33 on: June 09, 2009, 08:56:13 AM »

All the routes in one season?
Impressive.
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« Reply #34 on: June 09, 2009, 10:29:45 AM »

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All the routes in one season?
Sure, if you climbed 5 to 7 days a week.
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« Reply #35 on: June 09, 2009, 10:51:18 AM »

Sorry for the late response... Busy with confirming fledge of prairie falcons from several nests.

Brad, I hear you about the gray area of new routes; if folks want to check it out before calling it a genuine route or just refer to it as a variation, that's fine by me. I'm guessing that between Swallow Crack and the crux of Jorgie's Continuation there are about 15 feet of moves... It does make for a nice, straight(ish) line up to the Jorgie's Continuation anchors.

In the event that folks do want it referred to as a new route, here's some info.:

Name: Jorgie's Swallow (...Funny, that really is the name I was thinking of before reading the replies!)
Grade: 5.10d (...Perhaps a bit harder given that the moves are rather difficult to protect, but I'll be conservative.)
FA: Well, it was June 6, 2009 for me, but I saw 2 women struggling on TR on it on May 31, 2009... They thought they were on Swallow Crack. Their names were Joanne and Abby, but I didn't get their last names.
Protection: Not great through the moves, and that makes the moves rather heady... You can use a piece or two on Swallow Crack, but otherwise there are one or two crack holes that are 0.5" x 2", then up to the crux bolt on Jorgie's Continuation. The best of the crack holes also felt like a critical hold to me, so best to place a piece after getting above it.

I think that's about it. Brad: yeah, I do want to get up your way. Just hard right now with raptors fledging young! I'm hoping to get up that way at the end of the month, but might just be for backpacking... I'll let you know.
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« Reply #36 on: June 09, 2009, 10:53:08 AM »

Whoops, just saw my typo on the route name... Go for "Jorgie Swallows" if that makes sense to everyone.
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« Reply #37 on: June 09, 2009, 12:29:34 PM »

Gavin, sounds like the newborns are keeping you very busy? Maybe you and Factor have a lot to talk about.

Sounds like a legit route (IMNeverHO the prior TR with hangs doesn't count as an ascent). Should I edit the list above, even though we're waaay out of season and I can hardly even spell Pinanclees? And BTW, since it is its own route, is it worth its own protection bolt (placed on lead of course, or be cursed to hell forever and ever)? Or since you led it bold, leave it that way?
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« Reply #38 on: June 09, 2009, 02:02:14 PM »

Ha! Good name choice G.
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« Reply #39 on: June 09, 2009, 03:04:57 PM »

no bolt.
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« Reply #40 on: June 09, 2009, 03:54:57 PM »

"no bolt."

When I predicted DES"s response, I only got it half right. It was easy to see "no bolt" coming, but I'm surprised he didn't add: "and rate it 5.9+."
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« Reply #41 on: June 09, 2009, 07:02:24 PM »

Brad, I'd say feel free to edit the list above if you have the time, otherwise it certainly could wait as we're into summer (though the weather has continued to be beautiful with highs in the LOW 80s).

As for a protection bolt, my instinct is to say "no," as folks that are uncomfortable with the lead can easily hike up top and set the route up on TR. And if you are leading it, folks will need trad pro anyway through the Swallow Crack start. But it's probably worth emphasizing that the lead is stout through the 5.10d parts and thin on pro. I'll try getting on it again soon and let you know if I think differently on the bolt vs. trad pro. Does that sound good?

About the fledglings... Yeah, 4 more nests to check this weekend, with 5 falcons apiece flying out. Keeping track of them all is like herding cats!
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« Reply #42 on: June 09, 2009, 07:52:50 PM »

As for a protection bolt, my instinct is to say "no," as folks that are uncomfortable with the lead can easily hike up top and set the route up on TR. And if you are leading it, folks will need trad pro anyway through the Swallow Crack start. But it's probably worth emphasizing that the lead is stout through the 5.10d parts and thin on pro. I'll try getting on it again soon and let you know if I think differently on the bolt vs. trad pro. Does that sound good?

Sounds good. As I see it this is completely your call; you're the first ascentionist and you decide these things.

And about the young'ns, sounds like you do have a lot in common with Factor (all right, his "fledgling" is human).
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« Reply #43 on: June 09, 2009, 08:08:01 PM »

OK, Gavin, how does that look (trying to extrapolate from what you wrote)?
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« Reply #44 on: June 10, 2009, 02:18:44 PM »

Brad, that sounds great. Thanks for the post!
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« Reply #45 on: June 10, 2009, 08:15:38 PM »

no bolt
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« Reply #46 on: June 11, 2009, 08:15:53 AM »

multiple bolts, no more than 2' apart

 Wink
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« Reply #47 on: June 11, 2009, 10:29:45 AM »

Quote
multiple bolts, no more than 2' apart
Shiny ones to!

Munge, let's live a little...3' apart
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« Reply #48 on: June 11, 2009, 11:46:43 AM »

I knew that would draw out the F4.

hahahah
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« Reply #49 on: June 11, 2009, 06:11:31 PM »

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I knew that would draw out the F4.

hahahah

I'll even drill em with the drill Mr Mud gave me!
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« Reply #50 on: June 11, 2009, 06:14:37 PM »

DIE
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« Reply #51 on: October 18, 2009, 03:53:14 PM »

Though I know Brad doesn't always capture all top rope problems, as I was contemplating the upcoming pinns season in my "office," I noticed that no TR was provided for the RFC between 155 and 157 so thought I should mention it here.  I seem to recall Clint and I discussed this corner before trying to figure out who had gone up it first. I figure the difficulty is around 10b/c, but my memory if fuzzy on the grade. But I distinctly recall the rock being pretty good with minimal flakey lichen.

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« Reply #52 on: October 18, 2009, 04:39:41 PM »

Do not have the guidebook at hand so it is a bit of a guess here, but would that be, between, The Beast and Cantalope Death?

Though I know Brad doesn't always capture all top rope problems, as I was contemplating the upcoming pinns season in my "office," I noticed that no TR was provided for the RFC between 155 and 157 so thought I should mention it here.  I seem to recall Clint and I discussed this corner before trying to figure out who had gone up it first. I figure the difficulty is around 10b/c, but my memory if fuzzy on the grade. But I distinctly recall the rock being pretty good with minimal flakey lichen.


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« Reply #53 on: October 18, 2009, 05:11:08 PM »

Also, on Flumes Face, the line going directly straight down the rap from the right set of anchors at the top of 693 is a nice top rope problem. I don't recall the difficulty, but it was within keeping of the other lines in the area if not easier.

It's worth noting that the large ramp on the very left edge of the NE Face is an amazing meadowy ramp and well worth staying off of.  
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« Reply #54 on: October 18, 2009, 05:11:40 PM »

Do not have the guidebook at hand so it is a bit of a guess here, but would that be, between, The Beast and Cantalope Death?


ya
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« Reply #55 on: October 27, 2009, 05:20:03 PM »

Waldo and I met today for an afternoon on the West Side. I got in 4 routes that I'd never done before (792 and counting). One of these was Josh's route The Wolf, on The Shepherd. The route description above is good, but I've got to note that the stopper placement he described is absolutely bomber, plus plus. A medium stopper, between large lodestones. Since I'm careless about having a nut tool at Pinns and neither Bob, not I could remove the nut without one, I had to hike all the way back out to The Shepherd, now with a tool, after dropping off the pack, just to clean my piece.

Good first day of Pinns season.
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« Reply #56 on: November 14, 2009, 10:38:39 PM »

Added a new route to the list today: Blackjack (route # 457.8, on Casino Rock).
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« Reply #57 on: December 06, 2009, 09:38:21 PM »

New addition today, Los Banditos 5.10a A1*. Route 815.4
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« Reply #58 on: December 06, 2009, 10:44:04 PM »

nice job guys! 

quick clarify on the description...

"The pitch finishes with 15 feet of easy slab to a stance and two bolts."

are the two bolts the belay bolts, or lead protection bolts?

thx,
M
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« Reply #59 on: December 07, 2009, 07:24:20 AM »

Now clarified.
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« Reply #60 on: December 12, 2009, 06:52:24 PM »

Brad -

Rob and I will go finish our projects on the aforementioned location this season.

-jl
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« Reply #61 on: December 12, 2009, 07:14:48 PM »

Nice, lemme know when you get to it.
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« Reply #62 on: December 22, 2009, 05:37:02 PM »

Added to the list two routes on Tadpole Rock, one of which we discovered last year and the other done as a first ascent this last Saturday. I've never had a hammer "bounce off" the drill in such an odd way as it did while I was placing the third bolt. Bled like hell, but there I was, 6 feet above the last bolt (see photos below). The three bolts leading up and left from Brown Rice... is an ongoing project, leave it alone.



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« Reply #63 on: December 22, 2009, 08:31:35 PM »

Ouch, BRUtaL Brad
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« Reply #64 on: December 22, 2009, 08:45:40 PM »

Tell the truth.  Who did you piss off at the bar?
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« Reply #65 on: December 22, 2009, 09:53:16 PM »

really close to the eyeball, eh? yeeeshes
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« Reply #66 on: December 22, 2009, 10:54:29 PM »

Dang, that looks ugly. I must say that's why I wear sunglasses. I should post up a picture of the pair that I had on when I fell on TaoPani.
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« Reply #67 on: December 23, 2009, 07:19:55 AM »

I forgot to add that Tricia is part of the FA team on Brown Rice... because she followed me on it with no falls. I couldn't believe it, Tonya did the route later and thought it had a little 5.8 on it. And Tricia can't even reach the holds. But she is so light that she was also able to use holds that I'd never even consider. She's a cool kid.
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« Reply #68 on: December 23, 2009, 02:59:36 PM »

Go Tricia!

Heck, she's as probably as tall as me now!
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« Reply #69 on: December 29, 2009, 08:23:17 PM »

New or Newly Reported: near the top of the back side of the upper tier of the Balconies

There are a series of small mudlet pinnacles just south of the low point of the saddle between Crowley Towers and the highest summit of the Balconies formation.

Seen here:



I got on several but there are two that I thought worthwhile if one is in the vicinity. The view from the top of the Balconies is probably the best view in the Monument.

In the above pic, the left skyline shows two bumps/mudlets, from between these two climb the obvious and featured lines...



Balcony Bump? 5.3? (left northerly one shown above)
FA unknown

Balcony Balls? 5.3? (right southerly one shown above)
This one has bigger cobbles and is more hollow sounding, but seemed pretty stable.
FA unknown
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« Reply #70 on: January 02, 2010, 05:51:28 PM »

Thief. I cruised under these three years ago on a solo, wet day, while I was checking stuff out for the book. I'd meant to return to the arete in the right of your photo to do an FA with the girls. Maybe let Katie place a bolt. Alas, the FA is now taken forever. And, of course, as you point out, it may well have been "scrambled up" already.  If I remember, the shallow water streak/groove to that arete's right looked worthwhile too.

These two seem like legit routes. Should they be written up and added to the list? If you want I'll do so. Can you give some more detail?

EDIT: If I recall these aretes are about midway from the Towers to the top edge of the Balconies, maybe 300 yards south of the Towers? And not really visible from any distance due to intervening ridges. I don't think any sane approach could be made other than by turning off from the normal Crowley Towers approach to the right/north a few hundred yards before the Towers? (I say "sane" because on the day I was there I continued way down and around, eventually coming out on the Balconies Cliff Trail way north of the Balconies, but that would be a dumb way to approach these).
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« Reply #71 on: January 02, 2010, 09:22:06 PM »

They seemed pretty legit, especially the one on the right (So.) even if easy, and there is room for more lines in this vicinity. It's a really nice location.  I don't recall a groove, but I was taking the easiest line since some of the cobbles sounded hollow.

Definitely agree on the approach. Except if one was topping out on the Balconies and decided to 'summit' one could knock off a couple extra 'lines'.



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« Reply #72 on: January 03, 2010, 08:21:10 AM »

Quote
Definitely agree on the approach. Except if one was topping out on the Balconies and decided to 'summit' one could knock off a couple extra 'lines'.
Top out on a Balconies route? You are on Crack. Lava Falls doesn't top out.
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« Reply #73 on: January 03, 2010, 09:12:59 AM »

Yeah, but if one wanted to, one could top out on any of several Balconies routes and then use Exit Route to top out ( a few 5.6 moves). This would put one within a few hundred yards of the routes Rob did/stole  Grin

EDIT: Wrong. Exit Route leaves one below a huge, upper tier of Balconies, the tier with no routes except on it's very far left (where If We Bolt it Lies). So there is one viable approach.
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« Reply #74 on: January 03, 2010, 09:10:03 PM »

probably not a likely approach from the front side and even if so, the objective would be the wall not the little pinnacles, so from a 'usually approached' probably only worth mentioning the one from Crowley.
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« Reply #75 on: January 10, 2010, 10:05:28 PM »

Balcony Bumps Updated and consolidated (not including roped climbs finished today and mentioned only because they have good rock on the Second Bump):

First Bump
Arborist - 5.easy - Going south from the saddle between Crowley towers and the upper summit of the Balconies, ascend the first of three miniature conical pinnacles via a fallen dead tree. Be delicate on the tree as it may not last long. Descend by reversing the moves.  FA unknown, maybe munge 1/10/2010

Second Bump
North Arete - 5.3 - 25-35'? Starts just to climber's left of tree. Good rock under the lichen. Some pockets could protect the leader.  Descend the Fourth Class route. FA unknown, most likely munge 1/10/2010 (thick lichen, untouched found on this potential FA) Maybe call this Mumps?

Eastern Lodestone - 5.3 - 20-25'? Starts on the big lodestone, near the top move slightly left. Mostly good rock. FA unknown, maybe munge 1/10/2010, since no else would bother with an obscure alternate start. I have no life. Maybe call this Humps?

Balcony Bump - aka Fourth Class Descent Route - 4th class - 20'?  FA unknown - really good rock.

SW corner - 5.4 - Start just left of the Fourth Class route on good rock. The one pocket down low wouldn't protect the crux move going over the steeper top. FA unknown, most likely munge 1/10/2010 due to a large natural hand hold cobble that was en route that came off with barely a touch. Maybe call this Clumps?

Third Bump
Balcony Balls - 5.3 Bigger cobbles but more hollow sounding. On blunted North Arete, locatd directly opposite from The Fourth Class route on Balcony Bump.
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« Reply #76 on: January 12, 2010, 10:12:04 AM »

OK, just added four routes in the Crowley Towers/Balconies Bumps area of the West Side (all four start with the number 709).
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« Reply #77 on: January 31, 2010, 11:05:39 PM »

Two or three Previously Unreported routes...

1. Huh?  25' ish 5.5 solo on south side of a pinnacle just south of the trail about 175 yards east of The Lump. FA unknown

here's a photo of the line...


the route is top left of this overview photo...


2. Huh? 25' ish 5.4 solo on east side of a pinnacle just west of The Lump. FA unknown. The pinn is marked by a narrow jumble of rock nestled against the East face. Climb the ridge by gaining the extended part and hoping across to the main formation. On the main formation it is slightly pinker and denuded of black lichen by years of ascents. Above photo taken from atop this formation for reference.

3. Huh? 25' ish 5.4 solo on east face of pinnacles just west of the The Lump. FA unknown, possibly Rob Behrens 1/31/2010. Climb the face 6-8' left of a left facing chimney formed by the above route's ridge. It ascends good knobs to a mossy step. downclimb the route or downclimb #2 above.
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« Reply #78 on: February 01, 2010, 10:46:01 PM »

for what it's worth, there are a whole series of mini lumps along this ridge that are easy boulder problems or 4th class summits depending on how you define it that are less than 25'. They are both east and west of The Lump.
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« Reply #79 on: March 08, 2010, 12:36:59 PM »

Added the superb routes of The Jungle Slab today. Enjoy repeating these! (Heavy, heavy sarcasm.)
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« Reply #80 on: March 21, 2010, 08:45:25 PM »

Modified the entry about Gavin's Tangent. Added two stars, where previously there were none. Changed the description regarding the protection placed under the roof (to "good" from "OK"). Changed the description of where the climb goes (changed slightly - it goes straight up to the roof, not up and left). Added an explanation about why these changes were made.
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Brad Young
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« Reply #81 on: March 21, 2010, 09:20:15 PM »

Made a few modifications to the Blackjack description today based on an ascent of the route. Changed the description of the gear leading up to the bolt to "some good gear," from "good gear," to make it clear that the pro leading up to that point is adequate, but not wonderful. Added the word "intimidating" to the description of the crux, which is quite steep. Left the grade (which the first ascent authors thought might be too conservative) since two of us agreed that, once it was passed, it seemed 5.9. Not a clean route, but worth doing.
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Brad Young
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« Reply #82 on: March 22, 2010, 07:11:32 AM »

Added the new route just established by Fabrizio and Josh: "The Royal Flush," on Casino Rock. Led this yesterday and really enjoyed it.
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Brad Young
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« Reply #83 on: April 14, 2010, 06:53:28 PM »

On April 14, 2010 I added Abuela Cochinita to the list of new routes.
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Brad Young
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« Reply #84 on: May 04, 2010, 09:27:53 AM »

Made some modifications to Flue Fire's description today, based on recent ascents. The only significant change was of the rating: to 5.11a, from 5.10d.
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Brad Young
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« Reply #85 on: May 04, 2010, 10:59:49 AM »

Added two newly established routes on The Hippopotamus: Hungry, Hungry Hippo and From Dawn to Tusk.
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mmud
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« Reply #86 on: May 06, 2010, 08:17:10 PM »

Very cool list, thanks for putting it together and keeping it current!

I'm heading out to Casino Rock this weekend and wondering if you could help me out with some info:

1. How high is it? (Will my 50m rope be sufficient for TR-ing?)
2. If I lead Drilling, will I be able to scramble over to set up the others on TR?
3. Bolts or rings on top?

Thanks,

~Dan
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Brad Young
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« Reply #87 on: May 06, 2010, 09:14:27 PM »

1. The height is in the guidebook (topo, page 181). Look at route # 457 and you'll see its height and the approximate height of the rock itself.

2. Yes, although the "scramble" to get to the top of route # 455 is pretty much class four (read the intro to Casino Rock on page 180 and look at route # 459).

3. The topo tells you about the top anchors. The summit bolts shown in the topo have no chains and no rings.

Sorry, can't get more specific than that - gotta make sure you've got the book. If climbers don't buy it how am I ever going to clear out my garage? You do have it don't you?
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MUCCI
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« Reply #88 on: May 06, 2010, 09:23:55 PM »

Mud-
#1 All of the routes at casino are longer than 100 ft.  

#2 I assume you meant lead "Climbing" instead of "Drilling", in which case there is no way to top rope any climb at casino rock with one rope.  You scramble off the backside of each route and walk down the right side of casino to return to the base.

3# There is a 2 bolt anchor at the top of "Crap Chute 5.9R".

Hope this helps, have fun out there and welcome to the mudpile!

Mucci
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mynameismud
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« Reply #89 on: May 07, 2010, 05:23:16 AM »

By Drilling I think he means Drilling in my Dreams 5.7.  "Drilling" is on Casino.

I think what he is asking is can they be top roped with a two 50 m ropes.  I might be wrong on this.

I think you might be able to TR a couple of them with two 50 m ropes but I am not sure since it has been a long time since I have been out there and I have not done the new routes. 

I know some of them cannot be TR'd with two 50 m ropes.  Casino is taller than it looks.
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mmud
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« Reply #90 on: May 07, 2010, 07:13:12 AM »

Thanks, Guys, for responding so swiftly. I only get up to Pinnacles every few years and since I'm currently a poor-out-of-work bum, I'm surviving on my old purple second edition by Rubine, which doesn't have the height. This information is very helpful; I'll bring two ropes. You were right: I'm leading the 7 to TR the rest if possible. I appreciate the help and the contact with who look like people who appreciate PNM like I do.

~Dan
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Uncle Stinky
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« Reply #91 on: May 13, 2010, 10:51:07 PM »

No Country for Old Men, very chossy and dirty, nice views and an interesting ending.  5.7?  run-out or spicy until it cleans up.  Our first Pinns FA.   3X with the third bold being in not so great rock and a bit of a spinner.  No anchors yet, we were not sure of the best way to put them in and had to meet others.

This route is on the ridge formation between Chimney Seep and the Anvil on the south-west face.

FA Jeff and Steve Imai

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Brad Young
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« Reply #92 on: May 14, 2010, 12:43:01 PM »

OK, Jeff, see if I got the description right. I think it's good at least about where the route is located since Jim and I spent some time looking it over.

Nice name. So am I allowed to climb it (I'll be 50 this year).
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Uncle Stinky
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« Reply #93 on: May 14, 2010, 03:54:58 PM »

Brad,
Sounds good- It seems the formation has no name so we thought about calling it Byzantium. in keeping with the name of the climb.  A couple more shots

Getting in the last bolt



First lead.
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Brad Young
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« Reply #94 on: May 14, 2010, 04:27:44 PM »

OK, Jeff, check it now?
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Uncle Stinky
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« Reply #95 on: May 15, 2010, 08:36:01 AM »

Yea Brad that looks good to me. The climb is destined to be an obscurity,  chossy rock after a long approach.  I think it should be a requirement that any party climbs it has to have at least one person over 50. 

I am not sure of the best way to get there.  We have approached it three different ways. 
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Brad Young
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« Reply #96 on: November 15, 2010, 07:06:48 AM »

Edited the entry for No Country for Old Men to reflect an ascent of the route. BTW, per the FA author's (tongue in cheek) request, I am 49 years old, and thus not yet "over 50," but Bob is 64 (?) and thus of "legal" age.

We approached as for Chimney Sweep (but cut right at the last minute instead of left), which involves very little brush. We descended by way of The Knee and Maniac's Delight, which was brushy. I'd take the longer walk in by way of Chimney Sweep.
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Uncle Stinky
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« Reply #97 on: November 24, 2010, 08:34:41 AM »

You got us beat 104 vs. 113 years Cheesy
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Brad Young
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« Reply #98 on: December 14, 2010, 09:34:55 PM »

Added Keller Arete to the list tonight. Named in honor of one of the first ascentionists who placed his first bolt on his second first ascent (hand drilled, on lead, done with extreme enthusiasm).

Munge, I've been thinking about the rating. I really think those last moves were 5.8, not 5.7. I like to be conservative, but I think calling it 5.7 might cross the line into sandbagging. Your thoughts?
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« Reply #99 on: December 14, 2010, 10:11:20 PM »

Also added tonight: A Rock, A Hammer and a Black Eye. Alan thinks he's really funny, naming this route for the (ahem) mishap I had while drilling on the route to the right, Brown Rice and Boogers. Too bad about the no stars; this one looked really good, but turned out to be only OK.

I've still got to redpoint this. I placed the last two bolts on Sunday, leaving Alan fresh for what was (in my opinion) a brilliant redpoint. I followed but was so pumped from drilling that I hung on at least half the bolts. Alan's stance placement of the third bolt last season was also particularly notable. It was a tenuous stance that he was only able to maintain by bracing the hand holding the drill hard up against the side of a loadstone.
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