Author Topic: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread  (Read 5316347 times)

Brad Young

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1140 on: January 19, 2021, 12:25:04 PM »

I heard the Dawsons led this climb on Saturday. I'll put Adagio as first priority when the closures lift.


They did and they LOVED the new bolts. I told them that it was your work (it didn't surprise them).

NOAL

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1141 on: January 19, 2021, 12:31:34 PM »
Very nice!  That route was a prime candidate.

F4?

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1142 on: January 19, 2021, 12:50:44 PM »
Glad to see the tree branch has not grown up against the route.

Looks like itís been deterred.

New bolts are nice.
I'm not worthy.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1143 on: January 19, 2021, 01:27:42 PM »
They did and they LOVED the new bolts. I told them that it was your work (it didn't surprise them).

The drill dust and the bolts still had that new car smell.  :idea: :arf:

Very nice!  That route was a prime candidate.

Thanks dude. That crux bolt was scary!

Glad to see the tree branch has not grown up against the route.

That tree may be nearing the end of life stages.

Brad Young

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1144 on: January 19, 2021, 02:30:02 PM »

That tree may be nearing the end of life stages.


Aren't we all.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1145 on: January 22, 2021, 02:49:15 PM »

I replaced the lead bolt shared by Lonesome Bolt and Sheepish on Wednesday.
The old bolt was a 3/8 split shaft with a stainless SMC hanger.
There was a noticeable crack emanating from the bolt hole and the bolt was crooked and at a significant down angle.
The bolt came loose and wiggled out with a half turn of the wrench on my puller tool (scary).

The surface chunked off when the bolt came out and I was forced to carve down at least an inch to keep the original bolt location.
I surveyed all the surrounding rock but was unable to find an alternate spot that was any better in terms of rock quality and angle of the surface. This was an extremely work intensive bolt to replace. I lost most of the hole carving down, so I was able to adjust the angle quite a bit (still slightly down). 


Here is the old bolt (cratered, crooked, fractured, serious down angle)





and the replacement





The surfacing isn't quite perfect but it is close. I'm thinking of taking up sculpting (NOT!).





Not a lot to work with here. The rock is absolutely loaded with chunks of all sizes and covered with scabs. Uncooperative as he!!



waldo

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1146 on: January 23, 2021, 06:29:55 AM »
Excellent work on Buicks! For what it's worth, I fell on Adagio's upper bolt thirty years ago. It held.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1147 on: January 23, 2021, 07:35:34 AM »
Excellent work on Buicks! For what it's worth, I fell on Adagio's upper bolt thirty years ago. It held.

Thanks Bob.
The last two bolts on Adagio are 5 piece with Metolius hangers.
I won't be replacing those.

waldo

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1148 on: January 23, 2021, 09:58:04 AM »
Thanks Bob.
The last two bolts on Adagio are 5 piece with Metolius hangers.
I won't be replacing those.

Holmgren will be glad to hear it!

JC w KC redux

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1149 on: January 23, 2021, 10:29:10 AM »
Holmgren will be glad to hear it!

Sorry Bob - you're thinking of the next route to the left with the horrendously long name.
That one only has two bolts (star dryvins?).
It likely does need the bolts replaced but I did not look at it this year.
I'll have to recheck it when the closures lift.
Adagio is Steve Wong and others FA.

waldo

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1150 on: January 23, 2021, 04:02:42 PM »
Oops, you're right. Most of the small holds at the top weren't meant to stick around long, as I remember.

Gavin

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1151 on: January 27, 2021, 01:35:03 PM »
Beautiful work, JC. Your attention to detail and your mastery of the craft is very clear. Kudos to you!

JC w KC redux

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1152 on: January 27, 2021, 02:17:05 PM »
Beautiful work, JC. Your attention to detail and your mastery of the craft is very clear. Kudos to you!

Thanks Gavin. That bolt was like a Final Exam for rebolters  :crazy:

JC w KC redux

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1153 on: April 19, 2021, 04:28:57 PM »

Just wanted to give a shout out to Brad.

He has been picking away at replacing old bolts on days when he is without a partner and revisiting areas to work on the next edition of the guidebook.

I have not been able to get out and don't know when I will again - so I really appreciate that work.

Thanks dude.