Author Topic: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)  (Read 2841053 times)

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #100 on: December 14, 2010, 10:23:11 PM »
Added Keller Arete to the list tonight. Named in honor of one of the first ascentionists who placed his first bolt on his second first ascent (hand drilled, on lead, done with extreme enthusiasm).

Munge, I've been thinking about the rating. I really think those last moves were 5.8, not 5.7. I like to be conservative, but I think calling it 5.7 might cross the line into sandbagging. Your thoughts?

tenatively leave it at that, no prob, but get more people on it to get some consensus and remove the loose stuff. Like I told Josh last night, I do the step right move to the first bolt I drilled in a very easy way. It's only that last move. It is steeper than the rest of the climb.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #101 on: December 15, 2010, 06:35:45 AM »
but get more people on it

Yeah? I should maybe wave my fairy wand and make them do it? No-one's going up to repeat that route this century. That is unless we name it "Little Discovery Wall," or "Upper Bear Gulch."

F4?

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #102 on: December 15, 2010, 06:50:15 AM »
Just say 5.7 and call it a day. Who is going to gripe if it's a bit heady for a 5.7. We have standards to maintain....
I'm not worthy.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #103 on: January 19, 2011, 10:31:50 AM »
I modifed some of the directions today on Keller Arete and The 800 Club, and reversed their order (they were listed from right to left, which I changed to left to right). Also, I added the newly discovered and newly established routes The Keep and Party of Three.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #104 on: February 10, 2011, 01:25:25 PM »
Added one star (for a total of two) to Abuela Cochinita (two seems to be a pretty good concensus). Also, inserted the following four routes (all "found," none are new):

191.8 Pistolero Pinnacle  Third Class;

191.9 Bandit Chimney  5.5 R;

560.3 Poached Pig 5.10b (TR)**; and

571.81 Quasimodo Pinnacle 5.7 R A1

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #105 on: February 10, 2011, 02:56:30 PM »
I moved from the private list to the public list the following route:

579.5  What I’ve Been Missing Out On  5.7

And, I've got to comment on the name; it has a great story. Apparently Mucci and Munge had been telling John (one of the first ascentionists) that he just had to get down to Pinns to climb. What a great place, all the usual lines and persuasion. John finally took their advice. And got roped into an FA. This name resulted.

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #106 on: February 10, 2011, 03:36:58 PM »
* and how stuff kept falling off the route, protection was scant, and the lead was bold. In the best of the tradition. Nice job!
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #107 on: February 11, 2011, 11:56:05 AM »
OK, I moved Peeling Away onto the public list,; it now appears above.

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #108 on: March 05, 2011, 11:05:07 PM »
Newly found/reported:

due west of Teaching Rock up the slope lying less than 40 yards from the trail are a series of small bumps and pinnacles. Some are larger than others. I ended up bouldering all of them today, except for two TRs that I rope solo'd.  Only two of the formations are 'significant'... 

1. large capstone block boulder problem 5.7? (maybe harder for shorter folks) on top of a short ridge. Approach from the uphill side (West) either at the gap on the north side (5.4?) or the very terminus of the ridge (5easy), but continue up to the base of the block via an easy fiftch class move or two. The final block is surmounted by a high step and pull from edges (5.7). To descend, scootch to the lip and drop (very carefully) onto the ledge. This route has been done many times as the holds are clean and solid. It probably has been left out due to it's size and proximity so much other good rock nearby. From the uphill side it looks like a rodent, so I'd call it the Gopher. Half star.

2. just north of this formation at about the same level you'll find what looks like a low angle slab. It has one left to right leaning finger crack that starts with a shallow dihedral. This crack appears to take good pro at a couple spots that seem sufficient, so it is very likely this was lead in the past. On top is a rusting quarter inch hex head bolt that does not rotate and looks ok for a quarter incher. I backed it up with a 2 and 3 camalot 20 back undernearth a boulder. It felt about 5.6, but I was pulling rope thru a gri gri. It finishes left or just lefft of the arete at teh top. no star.

a. I also TR'd climber's right side of this formation. Very mossy down low. A couple of decent knobs get you up the bottom steep section. It finishes just right of the arete at the top using a med size scoop. Maybe 5.7. Calling this side "Chossy Chosserson" no star.

3. further north is a formation with a big flat area on top. perhaps 50 yards north roughly the same level?  On it's north side is a decent looking short wall. Climbers right on this face has a low angle slab.
a. Fourth class on the far right of the slab (done before by many as an approach).
b. closer in on the slab before it gets steep on the left is a bit of clean rock. Probably 5.4. Short. For lack of route names or history, maybe Skully will let us call it Nihilistic Trivialist?








 





On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #109 on: March 14, 2011, 05:10:46 PM »
I added today two routes Mungeclimber found and climbed two weekends ago, which he showed me yesterday (and I got to climb them too). These are: 203.3 The Gopher, and 203.4 The Proctor. (Both first described in his entry made just above this one.)

I also added a route that he and I "found" and climbed yesterday that must surely have been climbed many times before (climbers have walked by it for decades, and it appeared very clean). This is: 405.4 Pea Break.

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #110 on: March 14, 2011, 08:41:37 PM »
hahahah, he said Pea
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #111 on: March 14, 2011, 08:42:55 PM »
Well, so what? Did you see what was under there?

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #112 on: March 14, 2011, 08:58:45 PM »
sadly yes
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #113 on: March 15, 2011, 05:21:37 AM »
Wow, nice duck.

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #114 on: March 15, 2011, 09:57:02 AM »
fowl?  ;D
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #115 on: March 26, 2011, 10:00:23 PM »
BY, take a look at route 412's picture on page 164. After looking at the position of the start bolt, I think the line drawn in should show it starting slightly lower. The description covers it, but just an fyi edit call out for next edition.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #116 on: March 27, 2011, 07:07:03 AM »
I don't have a copy of the book down here, so I emailed your comment to myself at home. I will look at it when I return. Thanks.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #117 on: March 31, 2011, 07:17:21 AM »
I added route 462.8 Chute the Moon 5.6*. This had not previously been on the list at the request of the first ascent party. It is also mentioned in MUCCI's trip report "Initiation Fees" from March 28, 2011.

This is a long and fun route.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #118 on: April 03, 2011, 02:45:55 PM »
I added Mark and Adam's new route 182.7 Miscegenation today, but subject to modification as to stars (I entered it with none).

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #119 on: April 03, 2011, 08:50:39 PM »
BY, fwiw, "the gopher" shape came from looking at it uphill. The boulder is in the shape of the gopher from there, not just the head. no big. it's all just made up stuff anyways.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge