Author Topic: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)  (Read 2752201 times)

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1040 on: May 01, 2019, 02:11:26 PM »
Nice descriptions Brad.

I have a question or three about Initiation Fees and Uber the Goober.
I think John G's photo topo may be a bit off at the start because I'm pretty sure I stepped up on that last visible boulder (left of the trees) and made a long reach right to touch the pin. I don't remember being behind the trees as pictured.

John labeled one of the upper bolts with an arrow and wrote "Clip upper bolt from separate route". Which bolt is that on Uber?

EDIT; Duh.


JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1041 on: May 01, 2019, 02:37:47 PM »
Nice descriptions Brad.

I have a question or three about Initiation Fees and Uber the Goober.
I think John G's photo topo may be a bit off at the start because I'm pretty sure I stepped up on that last visible boulder (left of the trees) and made a long reach right to touch the pin. I don't remember being behind the trees as pictured.

John labeled one of the upper bolts with an arrow and wrote "Clip upper bolt from separate route". Which bolt is that on Uber?

Okay - I answered my own questions by re-examining the info.

The bolt with the arrow is the 3rd bolt on Uber (the first bolt on Uber is not shown).

I may go climb both of those tomorrow  :ihih:

I'm trying to resist the urge to drill.

I'll go sort out some bolts just in case  :devildevil:

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1042 on: May 01, 2019, 03:12:16 PM »
^^^

Glad I could answer your questions so easily.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1043 on: May 01, 2019, 04:23:15 PM »
^^^
Glad I could answer your questions so easily.

Bolts are all sorted, hardware is in! :out: :ihih: :frown2:

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1044 on: May 17, 2019, 12:47:21 PM »
I added a route to the list today:

-  471.2  Apostrophe  5.3 R

F4?

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1045 on: May 17, 2019, 01:22:11 PM »
How do you rate 5.3? Similar moves to carpet cleaner, maybe a bit harder?
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clink

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1046 on: May 18, 2019, 05:12:47 AM »
Quote
How do you rate 5.3? Similar moves to carpet cleaner, maybe a bit harder?

 It used to be easy for me. H&L regular route was the quintessential Pinnacles 5.4. If a route was a little easier than H&L, it was 5.3 and if it was a little harder then a 5.5 rating.

 Climbers skills soared and the touch was lost with many climbers on the lower rated climbs. The lower rated climbs became the frontage road that a few locals take, next to the busy super highway of 5.9-5.double digits.

 There are connoisseurs of of these easier climbs and there are connoisseurs of harder ratings, and then there are also connoisseurs of all climbing, regardless of rating.

 The broad and diverse aspect of possibility that climbing offers to people is simply remarkable.

 

 
Causing trouble when not climbing.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1047 on: May 18, 2019, 06:28:44 AM »
How do you rate 5.3? Similar moves to carpet cleaner, maybe a bit harder?

The original route is 5.1X and feels super easy to me - other than the exposure, less than great rock quality and potential death fall. I climbed that route back in 2012.
The moves on this one are definitely a few grades harder. I've done nearly all of the 5.3's in the book and put up some new routes at or near that grade. Apostrophe climbs a short, steep headwall with good holds to reach the shoulder.
One thing I really like about Apostrophe is the bolt cannot be seen from anywhere below  :ihih: and you are about 10 feet above it when you are standing on the shoulder - so you still don't want to blow the moves up the final headwall on the original route.  :yikes:  

I also replaced the anchor on Punctuation.  :thumbup: :yesnod:

clink forgot to mention that the first climb he ever did at Pinns was the Regular Route on Chockstone - 5.3 (5.1 in Richards guide which is the one clink was using).

F4?

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1048 on: May 18, 2019, 07:39:38 AM »
Then a repeat scent of carpet cleaner is required to confirm its grade.

I can only rate/ judge 5.9. Even then I have no clue.
I'm not worthy.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1049 on: May 18, 2019, 08:21:24 AM »
Then a repeat scent of carpet cleaner is required to confirm its grade.

I can only rate/ judge 5.9. Even then I have no clue.

I climbed Carpet Cleaner on 5-30-15. I remember it was hot and I was by myself (although I saw Alacia on the trail).
I wrote in my log - The holds werenít as big as I had imagined but the climbing was easy.
The climbing is nothing like Punctuation - easy slab to a committing headwall.
As advertised, Carpet Cleaner is a mossy, filthy chute with a few easy stemming and face moves and no pro (I free soloed it).

I hear you about ratings. For me, climbing up to 5.5 usually just feels fun.
At 5.6 it starts to get more of my attention and I have been on quite a few 5.6 routes where my reaction was - whoa - this thing is getting serious!
I know it's 5.9 when I somehow manage to get through it but I am teetering on the edge of falling.

F4?

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1050 on: May 18, 2019, 10:10:10 AM »
So harsh on carpet cleaner. That is one of Mungie best routes.
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1051 on: May 18, 2019, 01:11:05 PM »
carpet cleaner. That is one of Mungie best routes.

That is harsh!  :lol:

waldo

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1052 on: May 19, 2019, 08:25:07 PM »
Holmgren used to use me for checking ratings. If I got up it without complaining, it was 5.9. If I complained, or fell, or both, it was 5.10.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1053 on: June 02, 2019, 06:39:12 PM »
Gavin finished two routes on Voyeur Wall about a month ago:

-  410.283  Peep Show  5.10c **

-  410.285  Lichen the View  5.11b *

NOAL

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1054 on: June 03, 2019, 08:32:11 AM »
Both sound like great additions.  Right on Gavin!  Hopefully with more routes people will climb there.  Right off the trail ,nice place to spend warm days in the shade, good quality rock.

Gavin

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1055 on: June 03, 2019, 03:04:01 PM »
I agree about the location, Noal - it is amazing how cool and shaded it stays near those cliffs. I'm glad I was able to contribute some more to the area!

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1056 on: June 03, 2019, 03:40:04 PM »
Not to be a fan-boy, but what's even better than the qualities you two described?

The name of the cliff. Just THE perfect name.

(And, after posting the above, TTFN: it's Sierra season now, I did a massive, cross country, three hour recon today up at 9,000 feet - it looks like we will be having a climbing season up here after all).

briham89

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1057 on: June 03, 2019, 05:20:44 PM »
I did a massive, cross country, three hour recon today up at 9,000 feet - it looks like we will be having a climbing season up here after all).

Where?

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1058 on: June 03, 2019, 05:41:16 PM »
Iíll show you on Saturday.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1059 on: June 03, 2019, 05:47:33 PM »
(And, after posting the above, TTFN:

Who are you? mungie perhaps?
I smell a permaban for the other mentions that I refuse to quote.
See you next year...