Author Topic: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)  (Read 2796192 times)

F4?

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1160 on: December 11, 2020, 02:32:46 PM »
Snow ticks are bad. I heard that Bud Lite Lime helps repel them.


PS, it's now raining here in the bay area, damn!!!
I'm not worthy.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1161 on: December 11, 2020, 03:43:44 PM »
Reports are coming in from the Forest Service biologist up here about a newly discovered species that they're calling "Snow Ticks."
Mother nature sure is weird.

Surrounded by freaks.
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NOAL

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1162 on: December 11, 2020, 08:52:24 PM »

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1163 on: January 04, 2021, 12:46:38 PM »
I added one route to the list today:

617.71  Jack O’  5.8 *


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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1164 on: January 04, 2021, 12:53:58 PM »
I added one route to the list today:

617.71  Jack O’  5.8 *

Sounds and looks good/fun.
One of our renters (long ago) had a cat name Jacko.
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1165 on: January 04, 2021, 01:15:07 PM »

Sounds and looks good/fun.
One of our renters (long ago) had a cat name Jacko.


It has a surprising amount of good rock.


JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1166 on: January 04, 2021, 01:19:03 PM »
It has a surprising amount of good rock.

Gotta love north facing rock (well...I guess it's northeast).
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1167 on: January 22, 2021, 01:13:10 PM »
I added five routes to this list today:

-  583.2.  Grin and Bear It  5.9

-  709.41  True North  5.2

-  709.44  North By Northwest  5.6

-  709.45  North is Up  5.4

-  740.4  Leaking Fear  5.6 *


The newly-listed route Leaking Fear is near the previously-listed route Somewhere which was added to this list in 2008. While climbing in that area (now called Dotterers' Slab) I reworked the Somewhere description and, at Jon Cochran's request, John Cook added a two-bolt anchor to the top of that route. Somewhere's description has therefore changed quite a bit and that new description is now on the list.



Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1168 on: February 17, 2021, 04:20:40 PM »
I added six new routes to the list today (including two on a newly named/never reported pinnacle):

-  639.2  Leg of Lamb  5.5

-  639.4  Lamb Chop  5.2

-  646.41  Behind the Ear  5.5

-  646.44  Junk in the Trunk  5.5 R

-  663.1  The Citadel - Southeast Face - Right Finish Variation  5.3 R

-  663.4  Dance Moves Direct  5.3

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1169 on: February 21, 2021, 08:07:19 PM »
I lead a new 5.7 today that Gavin just established in July. I'm struggling to think of any 5.7 in Pinnacles that I think is better.

NOAL

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1170 on: February 21, 2021, 10:15:42 PM »
Exciting! IMO Gavin really has set a high mark for new routes.  It's nice to have new things to be excited about. Cant wait to check it out.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1171 on: February 22, 2021, 08:30:02 AM »
I lead a new 5.7 today that Gavin just established in July. I'm struggling to think of any 5.7 in Pinnacles that I think is better.

Holey Moley 5.7**
I wrote in my log - This route is really fun. It is still a little dirty but has great holds, excellent rock and an interesting variety of movement/techniques. The squeeze at the top is awkward and hard to figure out (but not really difficult once you commit up left side in) – very well protected throughout and worth repeating. Kat enjoyed the follow.


Just to name a few that are better and longer;

Mud Diamond
Pay Dirt
Rat Race
50 Meter Must
Salathe Burnette Bolt Variation
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1172 on: February 22, 2021, 08:31:28 AM »
Exciting! IMO Gavin really has set a high mark for new routes.  It's nice to have new things to be excited about. Cant wait to check it out.

Agreed.
Gavin has been putting up many of the best new routes and I've told him that repeatedly.
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NOAL

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1173 on: February 22, 2021, 10:55:12 AM »
Dragonfly Dome, Burgundy Dome

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1174 on: February 22, 2021, 11:05:55 AM »
Another 5.7 there too, one star, a wild up and right 5.10a crack with impeccable rock that gets two stars, and a crazy wide 10c stemming chute that gets two stars.

Never climbed formation on North Wilderness Trail he’s calling Wind Willow Rock. Near a stream, next to stands of willows and cottonwoods.

Will post them when I have the chance.

Gavin

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1175 on: February 22, 2021, 12:13:18 PM »
Thanks for the support, guys - it means a lot to hear your praise. Knowing that other Pinnacles masters like yourselves thoroughly enjoy routes I've established makes it worth the efforts.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1176 on: February 22, 2021, 01:20:55 PM »
Dragonfly Dome, Burgundy Dome

Ace of Spades
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1177 on: February 26, 2021, 01:18:47 PM »
 I added five routes to the list today:

-  468.041.  Breaking Badger  5.7 *

-  468.042.  Toad Haul  5.10c **

-  468.043.  Holey Moley  5.7 ***

-  468.044.  Rat Reaching Right  5.10a **

-  663.2.  See You Saturday  5.4


Of these routes, those at Wind Willow Rock (the first four in this entry) got my attention in a very good way. Much of the rock on these routes seemed almost like granite. And the moves? Unusual stuff for Pinnacles. The 5.10a, Rat Reaching Right, is a good example. I pulled this off on sight, on lead. But I got stuck at the crux for at least five minutes (it seemed like 20 minutes; sorry again Alacia for the "extended" language). Weird moves? How about unconventional. And fun. This route could be 5.10a but it could be 5.10b or 10c. How to rate this type of stuff, which only seems "not so bad" after you're through it? Probably you just give it a 5.10a. Wind Willow Rock is a very nice location too.

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1178 on: February 26, 2021, 04:24:58 PM »
Much of the rock on these routes seemed almost like granite.

 :madman: :madman: :madman:

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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1179 on: February 26, 2021, 05:07:15 PM »

Much of the rock on these routes seemed almost like granite.


It just hit me (maybe the brick wall did the trick). Some of the rock at Wind Willow Rock is very much like some of the blacker, really solid and often holey stuff at Red Rocks. Especially at the starts of Toad Haul and Holey Moley.