Author Topic: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook) (Read 3023930 times)

Brad Young · « **Reply #120 on:** April 05, 2011, 11:31:32 AM »

I added today the route 462.6 Initiation Fees on The Forgotten Sister. Since Initiation Fees is close to, and earlier in order than Chute the Moon, I modified the Chute the Moon description slightly.

John prepared an excellent photo/topo that I will link to both route descriptions when I have a chance.

mynameismud · « **Reply #121 on:** April 05, 2011, 11:36:39 AM »

Quote from: mungeclimber on April 03, 2011, 08:50:39 PM

BY, fwiw, "the gopher" shape came from looking at it uphill. The boulder is in the shape of the gopher from there, not just the head. no big. it's all just made up stuff anyways.

I thought it was named after you since people always say "Dude, go for more beer" when you show up with the BLL.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #122 on:** April 06, 2011, 10:35:37 AM »

Quote from: My Name is Mud on April 05, 2011, 11:36:39 AM

I thought it was named after you since people always say "Dude, go for more beer" when you show up with the BLL.

very few have said no to BLLs. Just sayin.

actually I should have said "when viewed from uphill" from the formation.

Brad Young · « **Reply #123 on:** April 09, 2011, 09:25:05 PM »

Added today route 452.3 Donna Gee.

Brad Young · « **Reply #124 on:** April 25, 2011, 01:49:21 PM »

I added route 226.5, Twisted Sister to the list today. This is the same route that Munge started a thread on about two months ago (asking whether anyone had soloed it and whether anyone was going to finish it). Although two Masters of Mud thought they'd soloed it, upon inspection of the line, both realized that this wasn't the line they'd soloed.

So, concluding that it had been started but never climbed, we finished the route

mungeclimber · « **Reply #125 on:** November 26, 2011, 11:04:34 PM »

Hatchet - East Face

Approximately 35' feet left of The Hatchet route is, what appears to be, an abandoned aid line. Several 'dowels' go straight up then go left for 1 dowel placement, then down slightly and left 2 more dowel placements. I scanned further but did not see evidence of further upward progress. The dowels are thin. The first one (not shown in the pic) is bent. I believe there were 5 vertical dowels, and 3 horizontalish dowels.

There is a stud anchor at the base of this line, out 10', which appears to be used for roped solo establishing of the line. The same type of stud bolts can be found at the bases of two different routes on Gerties.

Brad Young · « **Reply #126 on:** December 12, 2011, 04:22:38 PM »

I've finally gotten into the swing of Pinnacles season. I just added a new route: 709.93 The Back Nine 5.10b**

I know of two other new routes I've still got to get to: Straight Up, Blister in the Sun, and there is one newly found route to add too: Desperate Abandon 5.6 R

I'll get these posted up soon.

And, Rob, given the state of what you found on The Hatchet, I think that might be better called a project, or even a failed project instead of a route?

mungeclimber · « **Reply #127 on:** December 12, 2011, 05:13:35 PM »

Yeah, I don't disagree. Wasn't sure where might be the best place for obvious projects. I suppose we could start a separate thread for known projects or abandoned or failed projects?

F4? · « **Reply #128 on:** December 12, 2011, 06:09:16 PM »

Bolt it!!!!

Brad Young · « **Reply #129 on:** December 19, 2011, 05:40:39 PM »

I just added the Discovery Wall route Straight Up (number 104.2) to the list.

Brad Young · « **Reply #130 on:** December 19, 2011, 06:13:09 PM »

I added Blister in the Sun (route number 192.5).

I think I've got the information right on this, but I haven't climbed the route yet (I haven't even been to the East Side this season), and I don't know the first ascentionists, so I'm not sure. Is anyone here in touch with Dave and/or Scott? Would someone ask them to have a look at what I've got here and help me with any corrections? Adam? Mark? Thanks.

Brad Young · « **Reply #131 on:** December 19, 2011, 06:40:55 PM »

Just brought things up to the present (I think/as far as I know) by adding routes 711.2 Gold Line and 711.3 Desperate Abandon. Of these, Gold Line was established just yesterday, and the fixed rope on the found route Desperate Abandon has been viewed for years (I first saw it years ago, and I know Rob had seen and maybe gone to where it was lassoed over a horn at the top before - didn't you?).

mungeclimber · « **Reply #132 on:** December 19, 2011, 07:09:34 PM »

Desperate Abandon??

is that the white rope on top of Balconies?

stand by, I need to scroll up and read

Brad Young · « **Reply #133 on:** December 19, 2011, 07:11:18 PM »

Quote from: mungeclimber on December 19, 2011, 07:09:34 PM

Desperate Abandon??

is that the white rope on top of Balconies?

It was, we removed it (Jim's keeping it as a souvenir):

mungeclimber · « **Reply #134 on:** December 19, 2011, 07:13:13 PM »

edit - yep, that's the one I found, and threatened to go clean up. Thought it would be a neat moderate to the top. Looks like quality is lacking. What kind of bolts?

Brad Young · « **Reply #135 on:** December 19, 2011, 07:25:21 PM »

The first one is a small Star Dryvin with an SMC hanger. The second is a not very good 3/8" Star Dryvin with a home made "pry it out" shaped hanger. The rope was shredded in places, but not parted. It was tied to the second bolt - which is why one couldn't pull the rope up from the top. I've got theories about how it all got there (along the lines of a roped solo ascent ending in a rainstorm or darkness and a lasso to keep the rope in place until the climber could come back, place a top anchor and rap down to recover his gear - which never happened), and so I gave it that name.

F4? · « **Reply #136 on:** December 19, 2011, 07:37:18 PM »

Is that one of storms ropes???

mungeclimber · « **Reply #137 on:** December 19, 2011, 07:50:47 PM »

Quote from: Brad Young on December 19, 2011, 07:25:21 PM

The first one is a small Star Dryvin with an SMC hanger. The second is a not very good 3/8" Star Dryvin with a home made "pry it out" shaped hanger. The rope was shredded in places, but not parted. It was tied to the second bolt - which is why one couldn't pull the rope up from the top. I've got theories about how it all got there (along the lines of a roped solo ascent ending in a rainstorm or darkness and a lasso to keep the rope in place until the climber could come back, place a top anchor and rap down to recover his gear - which never happened), and so I gave it that name.

sounds like other gear was recovered?!

Brad Young · « **Reply #138 on:** December 19, 2011, 08:05:49 PM »

Nothing there except the two bolts and the rope. No 'biners and the rope was tied to the second bolt (which is why I hypothesized a solo ascent - or why fix the rope to the bolt at all?).

Brad Young · « **Reply #139 on:** January 16, 2012, 12:05:46 PM »

I added another route to the list today: 97.9 Lost Horizons - Fat Crack Finish 5.8 * As indicated in the added text, this must have been climbed many times before.

Joe and I had a great day on Friday the 13th (thanks again Joe for letting me crash at your fantastic Santa Cruz pad). We finished the day with Joe setting out to lead Horizon Line. However, due to my misdirecting him (memo to self: always rely on what the book says, not on the memory), he finished on a wide crack to the left of Horizon Line. It was obvious to both of us that this had been climbed before, and that it was a significant enough variation to be listed as its own route.

News:

Author Topic: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook) (Read 3023930 times)