Author Topic: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)  (Read 2796191 times)

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1200 on: March 01, 2021, 08:34:50 AM »

Bullet hard - total oxymoron. Lead has a Mohs hardness of 1.5 (your fingernail is about 2.5).
Feldspar (Mohs 6) is harder than typical steel, quartz (Mohs 7) is one level harder than feldspar.
Just for the sake of argument - an armor piercing round has a hardened steel core that could be harder than 7.


You were right about not doing the trivia thing regarding war and military issues.

Everyone knows that "bullet hard" refers to the tungsten core of an APDS round (no, not ATDS).

Armor piercing discarding sabot rounds (the bullet) have a tungsten core that is significantly smaller diameter than the barrel of the gun that shoots them. The sabots separate from the round as it leaves the gun barrel. This results in much higher velocity for a much smaller diameter round. Very effective when shooting at armor.

EDIT: And yes, of course I typed this from memory and not using any reference to a computer. Normal people know things like this.


Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1201 on: March 01, 2021, 08:38:16 AM »

Specifically what failed?
Mine had the rivet that holds the metal straps on fail but the hammer did not fall apart and I was able to fix it with a few hardware store parts. Simple easy and cheap. Gavin had the same thing happen and also fixed it with the same "rig" I did.

You should be grateful you can get out at all and quit drunk posting...


Same as on yours and Gavin's. And same as on the one that failed last year. Larry got them to replace the one that failed last year. This one failed while I was drilling on lead. I only noticed when the sound of the drilling changed. I stopped and looked at my hammer and the head was 60% off the handle, slowly sliding up-handle. I don't think it was far from the head flying off ("ROCK") by the time I pounded in the bolt.

Luckily Bob rescued us yesterday. Its the only time I've climbed with Waldo where he's been the second most important thing that arrived at the trailhead in his car  ;)




Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1202 on: March 01, 2021, 08:41:22 AM »

 It seems as though someone may have been keeping your glass half full. You swing a hammer like Thor's protege. If I could swing a hammer with the force that you do, a 4 inch hole would take me about 2 minutes to drill. May have something to do with a hard aid background.


I don't get it. You DO drill a four inch hole in two minutes. I've never seen anyone drill faster than you. Jim McConachie usually drills as fast, but not faster.


JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1203 on: March 01, 2021, 10:09:53 AM »
I don't get it. You DO drill a four inch hole in two minutes. I've never seen anyone drill faster than you.
Jim McConachie usually drills as fast, but not faster.

I don't know where this perception of Jim's drilling comes from.
I've drilled with him and he was no faster than me.
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NOAL

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1204 on: March 01, 2021, 10:21:52 AM »
Clink is the fastest at drilling. 

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1205 on: March 01, 2021, 10:26:55 AM »
You swing a hammer like Thor's protege.
May have something to do with a hard aid background.

It's because he uses the Hurry Cane - that drill holder takes 3 times the hammer force of a Rocpec to accomplish the same thing.
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1206 on: March 01, 2021, 10:30:22 AM »
Clink is the fastest at drilling.

Score one for Brisco County Junior  :lol:
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waldo

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1207 on: March 01, 2021, 04:31:16 PM »
Clink is the fastest at drilling. 

I concur. Clink takes the Balconies cinnamon roll, as far as I'm concerned.

clink

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1208 on: March 01, 2021, 06:55:04 PM »

 I only drilled together with Jim one time and he definitely drilled faster. I, of course, looked more heroic, desperate and compelling
(But basically, it's just not fair, Gandalf is ambidextrous)
Causing trouble when not climbing.

F4?

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1209 on: March 02, 2021, 11:40:40 AM »
Hard to beat Gandalf. He has his tricks.

I'm not worthy.

Jim

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1210 on: March 02, 2021, 09:18:07 PM »
I don't know where this perception of Jim's drilling comes from.
I've drilled with him and he was no faster than me.

How about the slowest

The crux bolt on Shoot The Tube took 95 minutes (or was that 2 1/2 hours and 95 minutes for one of the Conduit to the Cosmos holes).  How long it took for some of those sketchy no aid stances tends to jumble up with age.  Primitive drill bits back then too.  Ah the sweetness of youth...

NOAL

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1211 on: March 02, 2021, 09:56:03 PM »
2.5 hrs.  Ouch.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1212 on: March 28, 2021, 05:01:45 PM »
Gavin didn’t feel like hauling me up his route today. So he temporarily renamed Toad Haul to Toad Catch. And I led it instead of toproping. No catch though. I pulled it off. Fifteen feet of very, very sustained stemming. But it feels like 50 feet.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1213 on: March 29, 2021, 07:17:09 AM »
RIP Agent Orange

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1214 on: May 18, 2021, 10:31:22 AM »
I added three routes to the list today:

-  653.9  Get Smart  5.10a ***

-  655.3  The Flying None  5.7 **

-  698.99  Whose Mama  5.8


Make sure to read the temporary notes that follow and explain current conditions on Get Smart and The Flying None!


Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1215 on: May 18, 2021, 10:48:46 AM »
^^^

It's fun for me to note that The Flying None took more time for me/us  to establish than any other first ascent I've ever done at Pinnacles. We were on the route on either ten or eleven different days. Jennifer and I worked on the route alone for all but one of those days. Also, I drilled all but the first 2/3 of the first bolt on the climb. Jenn tried to drill that bolt and after two hours was only 2/3 done. So I finished that one and then drilled all the rest of the bolts and she did all of the brushing (and she did a hell of a lot of that). All in all, it worked very smoothly.

The route is still fairly dirty, as are many new routes at Pinnacles. But most of the dirt is now loose and with use and rain the good quality rock that predominates will get cleaner and cleaner.


JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1216 on: May 18, 2021, 11:08:41 AM »

I've heard that if you place a hand on either side of your helmet - you can fly up that route.

Sounds like on Get Smart you missed it by THAT much.
RIP Agent Orange

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1217 on: May 18, 2021, 11:19:35 AM »

I've heard that if you place a hand on either side of your helmet - you can fly up that route.

Sounds like on Get Smart you missed it by THAT much.


^^^

Were old. And no one who isn't close to our age is going to understand either comment.

Oh yeah... no one who isn't our age reads this forum anyway.


JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1218 on: May 18, 2021, 02:05:25 PM »

Find a link between Get Smart and Mission Impossible and call it Controlled Chaos
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Jim

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1219 on: May 18, 2021, 08:42:10 PM »
‘We were on the route on either ten or eleven different days.’

Sounds like a sport route :)