Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)

[MUCCI]

Woohoo, good job T!!

[mungeclimber]

High Peaks Drifter has a really nice ring to it.

[cobbledik]

Sami would think that Tricia's colorful sock wear is far more important to notice.

I say T is looking calm and collected in those photos, a sign of a good parenting.

[Aaron McDonald]

I added two more routes to the list today.

579.1  High Plains Drifter, and

578.9  Feeling Lucky Punk.

Aaron and Jon will have to look over my descriptions to see if they agree with them.

Although we didn't think either route was star worthy, each was worth doing. High Plains Drifter is actually a nice compliment to the regular route on The Lump. We also admired the stance bolting on High Plains Drifter - Aaron in particular, nice job job on that first bolt (you put that one in if I got the details correct). It would have been easy to have drilled from the top of the flake, but moving past that little bit of spice to the stance you used makes the protection  sooo much better once a climber is above that bolt.

Also of note, although Tricia has "led" class three and four routes at Pinnacles, she hadn't led anything that was fifth class - until today. She led Bynum Spire Regular Route (5.2), handling the significant runout to the first bolt calmly and smoothly.

Brad,

I like the descriptions and am glad you enjoyed the routes.  Jon actually place the first bolt, and I place the second. Half of the left foot stance fell off shortly after Jon got the bolt in place. Great fun and I am glad someone else climbed the routes! 

Congratulations to Tricia for an excellent lead!   

[waldo]

Aaron,

Great work!   I've got to get up there and try those before the closures kick in.

[clink]

JC and KC are the high peaks drifters. It is a good name.
 And nice photos of Tricia and JC

[mungeclimber]

Totally think that should be the name!

[mynameismud]

one more for high peaks drifters

[JC w KC redux]

JC making the first few moves on High Peaks er... I mean High Plains Drifter

High Peaks Drifter has a really nice ring to it.

It is a good name.

Totally think that should be the name!

one more for high peaks drifters

Gavel strikes the sound block...Motion carried

signed the High Peaks Grifter

[clink]

JC and KC, on HPD it looks like a route could go right at the first bolt and up to the south side of the Lump. Whatcha doing Sunday?

[JC w KC redux]

JC and KC, on HPD it looks like a route could go right at the first bolt and up to the south side of the Lump. Whatcha doing Sunday?

Hey Jon,
Thanks for the offer but I'll be working on The Inn Crowd with Brad.
KC can't go Sunday

[mynameismud]

Gavel strikes the sound block...Motion carried

signed the High Peaks Grifter

ooh, that just might be better

[Brad Young]

I added a description of route 911.6 The Inn Crowd to the list today.

[Brad Young]

With the continuing help and support of our site hosts, I added links to the photo-topo to the route descriptions for Gold Line, Desperate Abandon and The Inn Crowd.

[Brad Young]

I added the new route "711.7  The Brosseau Finish" to the list today (and I updated the numbers in the introductory paragraph).

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

486.5 Forgettable Ewe 5.5  FA Bruce Hildenbrand, Clint Cummins, January 15, 2014.  From the belay at the top of the first pitch of Lonely Sheepherder traverse 25' left out of the water streak.  Diagonal up and left passing a bolt to reach the next water streak which is followed to the top.  Belay at a unique pine tree which is growing horizontally! Walk off.

BTW, the climb to the left, "Embraceable You," I believe is supposed to be called "Embraceable Ewe".  Brad, you might want to check this with Jack Holmgren.

487.5 Up a Crook Without a Paddle 5.8++ XX FA Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Quirk, Richard Hechtel, and a fourth person whose name has been lost over time. December 1977. Start by climbing the first two pitches of Piece of Ewe. 3/4 of the way up the second pitch of Piece of Ewe traverse straight left to the base of a large, right-facing corner.  Belay on a large flat area with a short 3" crack which is about 30 feet lower and 30 feet left of the second belay of Piece of Ewe.  Climb up the crack as it steepens confronting a bulge about 50' up(crux) continue up the crack/grove to the walkoff ledge for the third pitch of Piece of Ewe.

On the FA the belay below the crux pitch consisted of a tied off, fist-sized chockstone in the 3" crack.  There was no protection available on the pitch.  If the leader fell there was a very good possibility that the belay and belayers would have followed the leader into the abyss.  With modern camming protection this pitch might actually be somewhat safe to lead, but that determination has yet to be made.

[Brad Young]

...Brad, you might want to check this with Jack Holmgren.

Bruce,

Jack and I went over all of his routes and route names (in the course of more than 60 emails back and forth) before the 2007 book came out. As an example, look at route #551, which had a much simpler - and I think better - name in the last Rubine guide (David had made up the name "Prelude" for this route, and Jack wouldn't let it stay at that because it wasn't what they'd called it, even though I begged him to leave it at the simple name).

So I'm sure that the way it is spelled is correct.

[Brad Young]

...Midway up the second pitch of Piece of Ewe traverse straight to the base of a large, right-facing corner.

Is it a right or a left traverse?

[Brad Young]

Is it a right or a left traverse?

I looked at the topo and then considered the number you gave the route. It must be a leftward traverse.

[NOAL]

Wow! I knew that Richard Hechtel climbed a quite a bit at Pinnacles but was not aware that he was on any FA's.  I am sure his daughter Sibylle would love to hear about this climb.