Author Topic: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)  (Read 2840999 times)

NOAL

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #740 on: November 07, 2016, 10:27:59 AM »
If you see a hanger that is stamped ASCA it is always solid stainless.

Max

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #741 on: November 07, 2016, 10:33:40 AM »
If you see a hanger that is stamped ASCA it is always solid stainless.

Thanks! cool to know
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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #742 on: November 07, 2016, 04:32:28 PM »
Thanks! cool to know

Thanks for the pic Max. That helps. That is just normal oxidation. Stainless resists rust by forming a thin coating of oxidation on the surface - similar to a Patina on other metals like copper, bronze, brass. The coating once formed protects the metal.

Carbon steel will look very shiny in comparison (before it starts rusting) and it will not have the INOX stamp on it. Not many manufacturers even produce carbon steel hangers - for example - Metolius and Petzl don't make anything but stainless.

This is not from my favorite source but it does a good job explaining.
Stainless steel differs from carbon steel by the amount of chromium present. Unprotected carbon steel rusts readily when exposed to air and moisture. This iron oxide film (the rust) is active and accelerates corrosion by forming more iron oxide.
Stainless steels contain sufficient chromium to form a passive film of chromium oxide, which prevents further surface corrosion by blocking oxygen diffusion to the steel surface and blocks corrosion from spreading into the metal's internal structure.
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #743 on: November 18, 2016, 10:28:30 AM »
I added four new routes to the list today:

-  485.5  The Hedonist  5.3 R *

-  485.83  Gruff  5.10a

-  485.84  Satyr Pinnacle  5.6

-  858.7  The Barber Pole  5.6

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #744 on: November 18, 2016, 12:28:13 PM »
I added four new routes to the list today:

-  485.5  The Hedonist  5.3 R *

-  485.83  Gruff  5.10a

-  485.84  Satyr Pinnacle  5.6

-  858.7  The Barber Pole  5.6


Worth a repost

beanolar leading The Hedonist (taken from Satyr)


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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #745 on: November 18, 2016, 12:55:00 PM »
And I just now added 17 more new routes to the list. All are on or near Crudn'Mud (somebody had a busy summer).  :o  :o

Rather than list and/or format all 17 here, I'll just note that all 17 start with the number 322 or 325.

looks easy from here

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #746 on: November 19, 2016, 11:50:53 AM »
Do all routes on Pioneer Pinnacle share one anchor?

Quote
322.2  Chasam  5.9  Source(s):  John Cook and Brad Young watched the first ascent from beginning to end and discussed the name and rating with the two route authors.

Let us in on the reference? (Rhymes with shazam, or phonetic spelling of chasm, or ??)

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #747 on: November 19, 2016, 11:53:38 AM »

Do all routes on Pioneer Pinnacle share one anchor?


One anchor. And that anchor is kind of centered on the top of the formation and so isn't easy to use for rappels (and so its not equipped with chains).

looks easy from here

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #748 on: November 19, 2016, 12:17:57 PM »
Thanks. That's what I thought, but I started to over-analyze "322.3  Imprint 5.8 *  ...to the Prairie Falcon anchor."

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #749 on: November 19, 2016, 12:41:07 PM »

Let us in on the reference? (Rhymes with shazam, or phonetic spelling of chasm, or ??)


The first three letters of the two first ascent author's first names.

John and I are listed as first ascentionists because we were there and helped them from beginning to end with their effort (all while rolling our eyes a little since it wasn't a line we would have chosen to climb). But they did the actual work, they loved, loved, loved the experience, and they had the most fun (it may be a no-star route, but it was clearly a three star experience for them and I'm glad they did it).

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #750 on: November 19, 2016, 08:07:39 PM »
Do all routes on Pioneer Pinnacle share one anchor?

Let us in on the reference? (Rhymes with shazam, or phonetic spelling of chasm, or ??)

He (Sam) wanted people to pronounce it Shazam - even though I doubt he is a Gomer Pyle fan.
I also wondered and you confirmed it - if people would think it was some kind of play on words for chasm.
I'll be curious to inspect the route and climb it - we didn't get a chance.
Maybe we can squeeze another line in next to it and call it Gaul Lee  :lol:
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looks easy from here

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #751 on: November 23, 2016, 05:43:03 PM »
He (Sam) wanted people to pronounce it Shazam
Hmm, I'm expecting that means I'll only ever get to climb it once, as everyone within a 3 county radius will hate me for uncontrollable yelling "Shazam!" every move and no one will ever agree to belay me on it again.

clink

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #752 on: November 23, 2016, 06:15:38 PM »
Quote
Hmm, I'm expecting that means I'll only ever get to climb it once, as everyone within a 3 county radius will hate me for uncontrollable yelling "Shazam!" every move and no one will ever agree to belay me on it again.

 Wear your lightning bolt t-shirt
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #753 on: November 23, 2016, 06:27:16 PM »
... will hate me for uncontrollable yelling "Shazam!" every move and no one will ever agree to belay me on it again.

We all bear our own crosses....

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #754 on: November 27, 2016, 04:30:27 PM »
Hmm, I'm expecting that means I'll only ever get to climb it once, as everyone within a 3 county radius will hate me for uncontrollable yelling "Shazam!" every move and no one will ever agree to belay me on it again.

Mix it up with a few Gollllllleeees! and it won't be so monotonous - and don't worry, I have a feeling you probably won't feel an indescribable desire to climb it again  :lol: :yesnod: :nonod: :out: :crazy: :biggrin:
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #755 on: December 05, 2016, 01:16:42 PM »
I added two routes to the list today:

- 484.1  Across the Great Divide  5.4 *

- 485.3  Faun Pinnacle  Class Four

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #756 on: December 05, 2016, 01:40:10 PM »
I added two routes to the list today:

- 484.1  Across the Great Divide  5.4 *

- 485.3  Faun Pinnacle  Class Four


Looks good - thanks!
I did notice a couple of minor things on Faun. There is a bit of extra space after the third sentence. That same sentence uses a phrase that was a pet peeve of one of my profs in grad school. She would say rocks and boulders don't run. When referring to direction/orientation, she preferred the term trend, oriented or something similar - anything but run.
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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #757 on: December 05, 2016, 01:42:52 PM »

I was also noticing that by the time you get everything caught up there will probably be 200 routes on the list - pretty cool!
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #758 on: December 05, 2016, 02:00:56 PM »

...that same sentence uses a phrase that was a pet peeve of one of my profs in grad school. She would say rocks and boulders don't run. When referring to direction/orientation, she preferred the term trend, oriented or something similar - anything but run.


You've made that point before, you are entirely correct, and you've convinced me on other occasions (remind me again in the future too when I do it again!).

Here however, I went to make a change and noticed that the word "run" is needed because it refers to the 200 feet more than it does the direction of the rocks (if I changed the word "run" to "oriented," for example, it wouldn't read right).

I couldn't figure out how the other (spacing) issue occurred - it wasn't on the Word document or in the input box here on this site when I "posted." but it was present on the thread. I think I fixed it.

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #759 on: December 05, 2016, 02:49:38 PM »
You've made that point before, you are entirely correct, and you've convinced me on other occasions (remind me again in the future too when I do it again!).

Here however, I went to make a change and noticed that the word "run" is needed because it refers to the 200 feet more than it does the direction of the rocks (if I changed the word "run" to "oriented," for example, it wouldn't read right).

I couldn't figure out how the other (spacing) issue occurred - it wasn't on the Word document or in the input box here on this site when I "posted." but it was present on the thread. I think I fixed it.


Faun Pinnacle is the only technical summit in the jumble of rocks and boulders that define the right (southwest) side of the normal, walk-off descent from Goat Rock’s summit.  These rocks are 20 to 30 feet southwest of Goat’s southwest edge (the low-angle dirt corridor between them and Goat is the Goat Rock descent).  The rocks and boulders run about 200 feet from downhill (southeast) to uphill (northwest).

I would change it to jumble of formations. When I read rocks and boulders I think of things much smaller - like something you could throw or roll/trundle - even though boulders can technically be quite large. I still crack up every time I think of Rubine's Crud and Mud description.

How about extend instead of run?

Here goes:

Faun Pinnacle is the only technical summit in the jumble of rock formations that define the right (southwest) side of the normal, walk-off descent from Goat Rock’s summit.  These formations are 20 to 30 feet southwest of Goat’s southwest edge (the low-angle dirt corridor between them and Goat is the Goat Rock descent).  The formations extend for about 200 feet from downhill (southeast) to uphill (northwest).
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