Author Topic: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)  (Read 2841031 times)

Brad Young

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Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« on: November 18, 2008, 11:32:23 AM »
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Brad Young

  • Grand Master
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  • Posts: 6664
Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1 on: February 10, 2009, 08:48:40 AM »
Continued from above post (the site has a maximum words-per-post limit).


507.8  Pinnacle Seventeen  A1  This “historic residual” climb is located in The Back Twenty.
The Back Twenty:  The Back Twenty is a group of boulders, bumps and small to medium pinnacles located 100 to 300 yards northeast of The Flatiron.  Reach them by walking slightly downhill, mostly brush-free from The Flatiron’s east side.  In making this walk, smaller bumps of rock in open, easy terrain give way after 500 feet to slightly thicker brush and a band of 20 to 30 foot high pinnacles aligned roughly northwest to southeast (left to right).  Larger pinnacles behind this band make up the bulk of The Back Twenty, but most of these are low-angle and/or have easy to reach summits.  The area’s only climbing route is an obscure residual, having no known way to the summit other than a rope toss and prusik.
This Route:  Pinnacle Seventeen is the rightmost rock in the band of 20 to 30 foot high pinnacles 500 feet northeast of The Flatiron.  The formation’s southwest side (toward The Flatiron) is 20 feet high on the left, 30 feet high on the right, and becomes progressively more undercut to the right.  The pinnacle’s most visible feature is its single summit bolt.  This can be seen from the top of a rock band 60 feet to the southwest (toward The Flatiron).  Look for one bolt on a somewhat triangular, white-rock summit.  Although not visible from here, Pinnacle Seventeen’s northeast face is 15 feet high, but vertical, loose and fairly featureless.  Its south side has a low-angle shoulder, but this leads to another short, steep, featureless face.  Climb Pinnacle Seventeen by throwing a rope over the top and ascending it to the top.  The toss is easiest to make from the back (northeast) side.
FA Party:  Unknown.  FA Date:  Unknown.  Source(s):  Careful, careful inspection of route with Jennifer Wang on December 14, 2019, and, after finding no other possibilities, an ascent by toss and prusik.

507.35  The Maze - High Point  5.0  An easy route to the highest point of a large but broken-up formation.
The Maze:  The Maze is a cliff-like series of buttresses, gullies, alcoves and small pinnacles located north of The Flatiron and east of the High Peaks Trail.  The area extends a little more than 100 yards south to north.  Its downhill side is to the east.  Its west/uphill side is notable for the many small pinnacles visible from the trail.  Most of The Maze is dirty and mossy; parts are rotten and other parts are overhanging.  One route reaches the highest point, at its southwest end.
This Route:  The highest point of The Maze is easy to see from the approach trail to The Flatiron.  Look north from about halfway out the trail.  The south end of The Maze is all visible, including to the left (west) the highest point of the whole mass (it has two similarly sized summits).  Walk to a short face that is right of the high point but to the left of two low notches.  Easy class five over a noticeable foot-deep ledge leads six feet onto a low part of the south end.  Turn left (northwest) and climb 50 feet to the high point (class three and four).  There is no protection on this route and no top anchor.  Descend by downclimbing.  FA Party:  Unknown.  FA Date:  Unknown.  Source(s):  Solo ascent of route on December 28, 2019.

507.42  The Right Honourable Robert  5.4  this route summits Peel Pinnacle, a complex formation in The South Platte.
The South Platte:  The South Platte consists of a large number of boulders, pinnacles and rock-jumbles on the ridge crest, north of Photographer’s Delight, but south of Long’s Folly (listed below).  The whole area is west of the High Peaks Trail.  There is a huge amount of rock here; routes exist on three large pinnacles and three that are smaller.  Also of note, although these rocks are just east/uphill from the Juniper Canyon Trail formation Pyramid Pinnacle, all of the pinnacles in The South Platte are steep to undercut on their west sides.  It isn’t practical to move from Pyramid to The South Platte (or vice versa).
Peel Pinnacle:  Peel Pinnacle is the southmost large formation in The South Platte (“large” in that, unlike rocks to its south, it is more than 25 feet high and requires more than a scramble to reach its top).  Peel is located on the High Peaks ridge crest.  It is 100 yards north of the High Peaks Trail switchback located 200 feet north of Photographer’s Delight.  It is very easy to see Peel from that switchback and from other parts of the trail further south; the south side of its summit has large, easily visible patches of lichen (mostly orange, interspersed with bits of lime green).  Although the pinnacle is easy to see from the south, it is best approached from the southeast.  Make the right turn at the switchback north of Photographer’s (turn to the southeast).  Continue past the next (left) switchback (and the exit to The Flatiron).  After another 100 yards, immediately before two very closely spaced switchbacks, exit up and left, over a waist high rock step, to and then along the northeast sides of multiple small pinnacles.  Angle northwest, gently uphill, to Peel Pinnacle’s south side, 250 feet from the trail.  This side of the formation features a prominent two-foot thick, up-and-right band of slightly redder rock, and below that a wide up-and-right ramp.  Two features are noticeable above the bottom of this ramp: a slab below a chute and a left-facing squeeze chimney. 
This Route:  The Right Honourable Robert starts below the chute on the south side of Peel Pinnacle.  Climb a slab to the chute.  Continue up the chute to the first bolt 30 feet above the ground.  Reach a saddle of rock between summits before moving up and right to a sub-summit and a second bolt.  Make a step-across onto Peel’s highest summit and a two-bolt anchor, 55 feet from the start.  FA Party:  Brad Young, Mark Fletcher.  FA Date:  December 27, 2019.  Source(s):  Self, part of the first ascent party.

507.43  Scurvy  5.4  Climb the left-facing squeeze chimney to the right of The Right Honourable Robert.  The chimney leads to the sub-summit on that route and its second bolt.  Finish on the summit.  Protection consists of a one inch piece and the bolt.  FA Party:  Brad Young, Mark Fletcher.  FA Date:  December 27, 2019.  Source(s):  Self, part of the first ascent party.

507.5 Glad Stone  5.4  Glad Stone is a separate, prominent pinnacle located in the jumble of rock north of Peel Pinnacle.  It is 60 feet north-northwest from Peel’s main (orange-lichened) summit, on a straight line between Peel and Sweet Marie Pinnacle (listed below).  Glad Stone is slightly lower in elevation than Peel or Sweet Marie, but taller than anything else in between.  Reach its summit in two short pitches.  For pitch one, climb The Right Honourable Robert to its second bolt.  Continue east from there, 20 feet down a small, class two ridge of rock.  Turn left (west) to descend another class two ramp 30 feet to a mostly flat, grassy area.  Belay from trees.  Move to and up an east-facing slot (gear: small to 1½ inch) onto a shoulder of rock that is just below (southwest) of Glad Stone’s summit.  Walk a few feet to the pinnacle’s upper west face and a two-bolt anchor six feet below its summit.  Climb past the anchor to that summit.  Descend by moving down to the anchor, rappelling 40 feet to the grassy area and then reversing to the top of Peel Pinnacle.  Rappel again from there.  FA Party:  Brad Young, Jennifer Wang, Kathy Cook, John Cook, Amber Fipps.  FA Date:  January 12, 2020.  Source(s):  Self, part of the first ascent party.

507.61  Half Platte  5.4  This mountaineering-style route reaches the top of Sweet Marie Pinnacle from far to the south. 
Sweet Marie Pinnacle:  Sweet Marie Pinnacle is a large, multi-multi-facetted formation located about midway south-to-north through The South Platte.  It has one distinct high point and several subsidiary and maybe-subsidiary summits.  The formation is complex and, from some directions, hard to access.  Its west and east ends are overhanging to very overhanging.  Sweet Marie’s north face is also steep to overhanging.  Three routes reach Sweet Marie’s highest summit.  One reaches it from the south by way of Peel Pinnacle and Glad Stone.  A second starts on the High Peaks Trail and climbs along the south side of the formation’s east end.  The other climbs the only real weakness in Sweet Marie’s north side.  The south side route is listed first.
This Route:  Start on the south side of Peel Pinnacle.  Climb the route Glad Stone to its two-bolt end anchor.  Move north and down 15 feet (a four inch piece is critical to protect the follower here).  Continue north another 50 feet to the top of Sweet Marie Pinnacle, finishing at its two-bolt anchor.  Descend by reversing the route or by rappelling off Sweet Marie’s north side (60 feet to the ground).  FA Party:  Brad Young, Bob Walton.  FA Date:  January 31, 2020.  Source(s):  Self, part of the first ascent party.

507.64  Slip’n Slide  5.3  The slip and slide part of this route is the approach to its start from the High Peaks Trail (it is best to do this route in dry conditions).  Begin the approach 150 feet south of the southmost carved steps and handrails on the High Peaks Trail (these aren’t quite in sight at the trail exit-point when northbound).  Move uphill 40 feet to a 15 foot high, mossy ramp (class four when dry).  Continue up the gully to a point where dirt becomes rock.  Climb the chute above.  Its steepest part is protected by two bolts, after which it becomes class four.  Exit left, using a slung knob for protection.  Finish on Sweet Marie’s summit and a two-bolt anchor, 75 feet from the start.  Descend by rappelling off to the north, 60 feet to the ground.  FA Party:  Brad Young.  FA Date:  February 7, 2020.  Source(s):  Self, the first ascentionist.

507.65  Almost Always  5.6  Almost Always climbs a weakness on the north side of Sweet Marie Pinnacle.  Reach this weakness from the High Peaks Trail, 50 feet south of that trail’s southmost/low angle metal handrails.  Move west (steeply uphill) on grassy slopes to the left of mossy slabs.  After 150 feet, turn left (south).  Walk 50 feet, between low rocks, to the start of an up-and-left ramp/chimney on Sweet Marie’s north side.  Easy but awkward climbing up the ramp/chimney leads to its top and a broad, almost-flat area (protection to this point: small to 2½ inch gear and slung knobs).  A bolt above protects moves over an overlap.  Continue up the broad, east ridge over bulges, past two more bolts to a fourth bolt that is on the east side of Sweet Marie’s summit tower.  Climb up and right onto a shoulder and a fifth bolt.  Finish onto the summit and a two-bolt anchor, 115 feet from the start.  Rappel 60 feet off the pinnacle’s north side.  FA Party:  Brad Young, Bob Walton.  FA Date:  January 31, 2020.  Source(s):  Self, part of the first ascent party.   

507.71  Full Loaf - Buttered Toast  5.5  A traversing route up the larger of the two Low Down Loaves. 
The Low Down Loaves:  The Low Down Loaves consist of two formations, one large and one very small.  Both are located west of the High Peaks ridge crest, north of Sweet Marie Pinnacle, and south of Queen Charlotte Dome (listed below).  Seen from the east, both pinnacles have a bread-loaf like appearance.  The north side of the smaller, north “loaf” (Half Loaf) is 25 feet south of Queen Charlotte Dome’s south side (and Queen Charlotte looms over it).  Half Loaf is separated from the northeast end of its larger companion (Full Loaf) by a four foot wide, east to west oriented corridor. 
This Route:  Full Loaf is inaccessible on most sides.  Even its short, 35 foot high, east and northeast sides are steep and fairly holdless.  A ledge and ramp system on the far right side of its north face allows access to the summit.  Climb an easy, mossy slab below the left end of a somewhat discontinuous ledge that extends well to the right.  A fixed piton protects the first technical moves.  Continue to the right past two more fixed pins and the route’s first crux, reaching the lowest right end of a prominent up-and-left ramp.  A bolt protects moves onto the ramp.  Climb up and left 12 feet to a second bolt which protects the route’s second crux.  The up-and-left ramp becomes class four soon after the second bolt.  Reach a point east of the formation’s highest (west) summit.  A boulder move leads onto that summit and a two-bolt anchor.  Descend by a 60 foot rappel back to the start.  Note that careful planning and rope management are necessary to reduce rope drag for the leader and to make the climb as safe as possible for a follower.  FA Party:  Brad Young, Jennifer Wang, Kathy Cook, John Cook.  FA Date:  February 2, 2020.  Source(s):  Self, part of the first ascent party.

507.74  Half Loaf - The Slice  5.7  A short route up the smaller of two Low Down Loaves (see description of The Low Down Loaves above).  Start in the narrow corridor between Half Loaf and Full Loaf’s 35 foot high northeast end.  A bolt 15 feet up protects crux moves onto the summit ridge, 20 feet from the start.  Move 20 feet east to the summit.  There is no anchor; descend using a Pinnacles rappel.  FA Party:  Brad Young, Shawn Shafai, Julie Nordquist.  FA Date:  January 19, 2020.  Source(s):  Self, part of the first ascent party.

507.82  The Missing Link  5.9 *  A two-pitch route up previously unclimbed Queen Charlotte Dome. 
Queen Charlotte Dome:  Queen Charlotte Dome is the largest and northmost formation in The South Platte.  It is notable in that the southmost, carved steps and handrails on the High Peaks Trail cross its east toe.  Although not particularly visible from the trail, Queen Charlotte’s very big south face is noticeably red, rotten and overhanging.  Its west end also overhangs.  Much of the dome’s north side is mossy and directly over the trail.  This side is also very steep in several places.  The formation’s two climbing routes follow weaknesses on the far right side of the south face and on the right-center of the north face.  The south face route is listed first.
This Route:  Approach this inobvious, two-pitch route by leaving the High Peaks Trail to the west, uphill, 50 feet south of that trail’s southmost metal handrails (this is the same point of departure as for Sweet Marie Pinnacle).  Move more to the right (northwest) than the Sweet Marie approach, aiming for the base of a series of very large blocks and pillars that lean against Queen Charlotte’s southeast side.  Continue up into a narrowing gap between Queen Charlotte and a smaller rock ridge to its south.  The gap narrows to 10 feet then suddenly widens at just under 200 feet from the trail.  The left edge of the leftmost pillar is here, almost at the high point of ground on the dome’s south side.  The route’s 60 foot class four first pitch starts behind the leftmost pillar.  Climb an up-and-right ramp behind the pillars to a one-bolt belay just below their highest point.  The second pitch climbs a shallow water chute straight up and then up and right past five bolts to a shoulder of rock.  The rest of the pitch is class four, up and left, ending at a two-bolt anchor 80 feet from the start.  Rappel 80 feet off the dome’s south side (directly back to the start of pitch one).  FA Party:  Alan Nilsson, Brad Young, Tonya Nilsson.  FA Date: January 18, 2020.  Source(s):  Self, part of the first ascent party.

507.84  The Stroll  5.2 *  The Stroll climbs the line of least resistance to the top of Queen Charlotte Dome.  It is intricate enough that it can be hard to distinguish where the approach ends and the climb starts.  Begin on the High Peaks Trail between Queen Charlotte Dome’s north side and the carved stair-steps leading north up to the east side of Long’s Folly (listed below).  Leave the trail at its westmost point, where it makes a sharp right turn toward the stair steps.  Walk southeast up a low-angle rock ridge to a point 30 feet above the trail.  Move levelly to the south 20 feet to a shoulder of rock above (north of) a 15 foot deep slot.  Enter the slot by traversing east on an almost-ledge.  Move west, down the slot, 10 feet past a pine tree.  Climb the slot’s north-facing wall eight feet to the top of a ramp.  The route’s first bolt is slightly right (to protect the ramp descent).  Move down the ramp 20 feet to a flat, low notch.  Finish this pitch at a two-bolt belay on the west-facing slab just past (south of) the notch.  The slab above is protected by three bolts; move first slightly right, then slightly left.  Finish after 105 feet at a two-bolt anchor on the northwest edge of Queen Charlotte’s spacious, fairly nearly-flat summit.  Descend by a 55 foot rappel past the last lead bolt, back to the top of the slot.  FA Party:  Tricia Young, Brad Young.  FA Date:  January 4, 2020.  Source(s):  Self, part of the first ascent party.

519.6  Mister Bolt Jangles  5.8 ** Start on top of a large boulder located 40 feet right of Monga Bonna Memorial Route and left of a separate, huge block.  Climb 15 feet from the boulder to the first bolt.  Six more bolts and gear (two to three inches) protect climbing up and left, then up, 80 feet to a two-bolt anchor.  Descend by rappel.  FA Party:  Brad Young, Peter Braun.  FA Date:  February 8, 2020.  Source(s):  Self, part of the first ascent party.

530.05  Condorks  5.9 R *  This one-pitch route is on the north side of Condor Crag - South, but is included here because it is so close to routes on Condor Crag - North’s north side.  It starts on top of a thin rock fin, 50 feet right of The Great Chimney.  Start by moving down and stemming to the first bolt (it’s at the same height as the top of the fin).  Move up and right past two bolts and then up past two more.  Although the route’s first five bolts are easy to see from the rock fin, no others are visible.  Bolt six is 30 feet above bolt five and bolt seven is 25 feet higher.  One more bolt protects climbing to a two-bolt anchor 145 feet from the rock fin (eight lead bolts total).  Descend by rappel from a two-bolt anchor.  FA Party:  Adam Long, John Bolte.  FA Date:  November 2013.  Source(s):  Telephone discussions with Adam Long soon after route was established; ascent of route with Gavin Emmons, February 15, 2020.

530.1  Bibulous Bluff  Class Four *  Bibulous Bluff is 125 feet east from the bottom of the northmost set of metal handrails on the High Peaks Trail (commonly called “the Steep and Narrows”).  Although its east and south sides are very high (and mostly rotten), its north and west sides are much less so.  Make an almost-level approach to its northwest side, bypassing a smaller outlier to its immediate west.  Seen from the northwest, Bibulous Bluff looks like a slender mound extending to the south.  Climb a six foot high notch on the west side’s far left (north) end.  After gaining the top of what amounts to a low-angle ridge, continue south, over another notch 40 more feet to the summit and then past that to the bluff’s very exposed south end.  There is no protection and no top anchor.  Descend by downclimbing.  FA Party:  Unknown.  FA Date:  Unknown.  Source(s):  Ascent of formation on December 31, 2019; multiple ascents by John Cook, Kathy Cook, Deb Collins, January 5, 2020.

530.2  Mescaline Mound  5.2 Mescaline Mound is a scruffy, multi-tiered  pinnacle located 150 feet northeast of the northmost handrail on the High Peaks Trail.  By way of further identification, two very large holes in the pinnacle’s steep, rotten southwest face are easy to see from the High Peaks Trail and the Mound’s 20 foot high, overhanging southmost end is 30 feet north from the north end of Bibulous Bluff.  Note also that the formation is 150 feet south from the south side of Pot Pinnacle (listed next).  Much of Mescaline Mound is steep or rotten.  Its north side however features a mossy, low-angle chute that can be climbed to a point five feet below the summit (pro: one to 1½ inch and tied off trees).  Move onto the summit, which has no anchor.  Descend by downclimbing or by making a Pinnacles rappel.  FA Party:  Brad Young.  FA Date:  December 31, 2019.  Source(s):  Self, the first ascentionist.

530.32  Pot Pinnacle - Moonshiner’s Chimney  5.5  Moonshiner’s Chimney is the leftmost of three routes on Pot Pinnacle’s east side.  Climb a 55 foot high flared chimney to a spacious, flat area (this is the first pitch belay ledge for Up In Smoke, listed next).  Finish on Up In Smoke, 35 feet to Pot’s summit.  Gear: one to six inches.  Descend (as for all three Pot Pinnacle routes) by rappelling 50 feet down The Roper Route (note that “The Roper Route” refers to the 5.5 - really 5.6 R - that is the only route listed on this formation in the 2007 guidebook).  FA Party:  John Cook, Tricia Young, Brad Young, Deb Collins, Kathy Cook.  FA Date:  January 5, 2020.  Source(s):  Self, part of the first ascent party.

530.33  Pot Pinnacle - Up In Smoke  5.3 *  This fun route takes the line of least resistance to the top of Pot Pinnacle.  Start on the formation’s northeast side, in the same place as The Roper Route (note that “The Roper Route” refers to the 5.5 - really 5.6 R - that is the only route listed on this formation in the 2007 guidebook).  While The Roper Route goes straight up a chute, Up In Smoke climbs an up-and-left slanting crack and ramp.  Continue 60 feet to a spacious flat area.  Belay from trees.  The 35 foot second pitch follows a right-facing corner before moving right to the shared three-bolt anchor.  Protection consists of one each one, two, three and five inch (the five inch piece is used on both pitches).  FA Party:  John Cook, Craig Collins.  FA Date:  November 6, 2019.  Source(s):  Email report of route from John Cook, November 7, 2019; ascent of route with Mark Fletcher and Dennis Erik Mr Mud, December 30, 2019.

530.4  Illicit Chimney Dome  5.4  Illicit Chimney Dome isn’t really a dome, it is a short pinnacle located 100 yards southeast (slightly downhill) from Pot and Peyote and a little over 200 feet east (downhill) from Bibulous Bluff.  It is the largest of many rocks and tiny pinnacles down low on this east side of the High Peaks ridge crest.  The best approach is from the south side of Peyote Pillar (no cliffs and less brush).  Seen from that point, Illicit Chimney Dome is split by a chimney, with the main pinnacle on the left and a subsidiary pinnacle on the right.  Climb the northwest side of this chimney 20 feet to the top of the subsidiary pinnacle.  A sling over the top of this feature protects a step-across onto the main formation.  Continue 15 feet to the summit.  There is no anchor on top; return to the obvious saddle and make a Pinnacles rappel off the northeast side, 55 feet to the ground.  FA Party:  Brad Young, Mark Fletcher.  FA Date:  December 30, 2019.  Source(s):  Self, part of the first ascent party.

536.6  Not Today  5.10c R  This 70 foot route climbs a west-facing cliff just east of the High Peaks Trail.  The cliff is 100 feet north of The Sponge and 60 feet south of Burgundy Dome (listed next).  Not Today starts five feet north of where the cliff actually touches the east edge of the trail.  Its first bolt is 15 feet up and easily visible from the start.  Bolt two is almost 20 feet higher, at the bottom lip of a 14 inch diameter hole.  Continue past a triangular, light-colored lodestone and then a third bolt to finish at a series of sturdy bushes.  The three bolts can be supplemented by so-so slung knobs and a marginal 2½ inch piece in a hole.  Descend by scrambling up and right and then back left (north) before moving down to the High Peaks Trail at Burgundy Dome.  FA Party: Unknown.  FA Date:  Unknown.  Source(s):  Email from Gavin Emmons during December 2017 regarding a partial ascent he made of the route (to its second bolt); Rappel inspection of route on December 15, 2019.

544.8 Stepping Stone 5.9 Stepping Stone Pinnacle is a 35 foot high, free-standing formation located between the Tuff Dome area and Spike's Peak. It is about 150 feet south of the High Peaks Trail (i.e. toward Tuff Dome from that trail). The most commonly used climber's path from the High Peaks Trail to the Tuff Dome area passes right next to this pinnacle, on its north and west sides. The formation has a distinct, 20 foot high shoulder on its west side (the "stepping stone"). Easy and unprotected fifth class on the northwest side of the formation leads to the top of the shoulder. One bolt protects moves from this point to the top of the pinnacle. NOTE: The first ascent party used one bolt to protect the moves to the summit. Mostly this was because of the late hour in the day. The first ascent party intends to return and add a second lead bolt (so that a fall will not result in a broken ankle), but cannot do so until the 2012 raptor closures are lifted. ALSO: The summit anchor presently consists of one bolt, with one screw gate (also because of the late hour). This was used to hold the rope in place so that a "Pinnacles rappel" could be used to descend. The first ascent party intends to place a second summit bolt and to add chains to make a proper summit anchor; this, however, will also have to wait until the raptor closures are lifted later in 2012. EDIT: As of 1-15-13 the route has two lead bolts and a fall isn't likely to break an ankle now (the route's "R" sub-rating has now been removed). There is also now a two bolt summit anchor with equalized chains. FA Party: Gavin Emmons, Brad Young, Alacia Welch. FA Date: January 14, 2012. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.

556.2  A Play in Three Parts  5.10b (TR)  Toprope up the middle of Bynum Spire’s west face.  Unfortunately the rock, on this otherwise pretty route is loose.  FA Party:  Unknown.  FA Date:  Unknown.  Source(s):  Report from Robert Behrens regarding “accidentally” climbing this face, January 10, 2015; ascent of route with John Cook and Lisa Lee, January 19, 2015.

557.1  Two Fifty Too Quick  5.7  The Fins are a series of long, slender pinnacles that extend from southeast to northwest.  They are located southwest of Tuff Dome and above/northeast of The Sponge.  Four different Fins are numbered, starting with The First Fin (closest to Tuff Dome), extending to The Fourth Fin (closest to The Sponge).  The wide northeast face of the First Fin - which includes the route Begin it Now - is 100 yards southwest of Tuff Dome and easily visible.  Access the first three Fins from Tuff Dome along an open and viewful ridge top.  A large gap and intervening cliffs make it necessary to access The Fourth Fin from the High Peaks trail near Burgundy Dome (see route 557.8  “The Fourth Fin - Regular Route” for notes regarding such access).  Two Fifty Too Quick ascends the blunt arete 10 to 15 feet right of Begin it Now.  Four bolts protect 55 feet of climbing to a small, separate summit and a two-bolt anchor which is shared with Nine Hundred for the Lead.  FA Party:  John Cook, Kathy Cook, Gavin Emmons, Brad Young, Rosie Hansen. FA Date:  January 10, 2015.  Source(s):  Self, part of the first ascent party.

557.2  Nine Hundred for the Lead  5.6 *  This route follows the most obvious weakness in the central part of The First Fin’s northeast face.  Three bolts protect straight up climbing to a very shallow bowl.  Move up and right past two more bolts to the fin’s long thin top.  Continue left past one more bolt (a directional to protect followers) to a small summit and a two-bolt anchor shared with Two Fifty Too Quick.  FA Party:  Brad Young, Tricia Young, John Cook, Kathy Cook, Steve Dawson, Laura Dawson, Alex Dawson, Gavin  Emmons, Alacia Welch, Bob Walton, Robert Behrens, Rosie Hansen, Julie Nordquist, Shawn Shafai, Joel Primrose, Jim McConachie, Dennis Erik Mr Mud, Jon Cochran, Noal Elkins, Brian Hamilton, Joe Denicola, Whitney Reynier.  FA Date:  January 10, 2015.  Source(s):  Self, part of the first ascent party.

557.6  Finagle  5.6 *  This route is on the third of four long, slender pinnacles that make up The Fins.  It starts between the narrow southeast ends of the Second and Third Fins.  Chimney moves lead up 25 feet to a bolt on the left (on the Third Fin).  This bolt protects moves onto a large, flat shoulder.  Two more bolts protect the rest of the Third Fin’s still-narrow, upper, southwest face.  A two-bolt anchor allows a 50 foot rappel back to the base.  FA Party:  Brad Young, John Cook, Kathy Cook.  FA Date:  December 21, 2014.  Source(s):  Self, part of the first ascent party.

557.8  The Fourth Fin - Regular Route  5.1  Much of The Fourth Fin is rotten, undercut or very steep.  The one weakness on it is to the right of center on the formation’s northeast side (the side-facing the Third Fin, at the uphill end of the 25 foot wide gap between this Fin and The Third Fin).  Approach this route from the High Peaks trail right at Burgundy Dome.  Move uphill from there; walking and light scrambling lead into a class two chimney between The Third Fin and a very small pinnacle.  Continue up this to the top of the gap between the Third and Fourth Fins.  Use a series of large boulders here to reach the top of an eight foot diameter chockstone (class four; it is of interest too that this chockstone can be seen in silhouette from the normal West Side parking area).  Move across the chockstone and on to the class two northwest shoulder of the formation.  This leads in 40 feet to the summit block.  A couple easy class five moves lead to the top.  There is no summit anchor.  FA Party:  Unknown.  FA Date:  Unknown.  Source(s):  Self; ascent of route December 27, 2014 with Tricia Young, John Cook, Kathy Cook.

560.22 Abuela Cochinita 5.8 **  Abuela Cochinita is the first-listed of several newly established routes on Spike’s Peak. 
Spike’s Peak: The 2007 guidebook describes four routes on Spike Peak’s three separate summits.  The four are described in counterclockwise/circular order starting on the formation’s south side.  Listed first is the route Spike’s Peak (route number 558) on the middle pinnacle.  Kermit and Miss Piggy (routes 550 and 560) on the east (closest-to-the-trail) formation appear next, and Little Javelina (route number 601) on the southwest pinnacle is listed last (although the book calls this the “west-most” pinnacle, southwest is probably a better descriptor).  The three separate pinnacles that make up Spike’s Peak are divided by narrow chimneys (two narrow chimneys dividing three pinnacles). 
Abuela Cochinita:  Abuela Cochinita is on the east face of Spike’s east pinnacle (it is on the same face as, but 60 feet to the right of, the route Miss Piggy).  The route is easily visible 25 feet west of the sharp turn in the trail which is 80 feet southwest of Dragonfly Dome (that is, the sharp turn is 80 feet to the left of a person standing on the trail looking at Dragonfly Dome).  Start with easy climbing to the first bolt, which is 15 feet up, on the right side of a large hole.  Four more bolts lead up and left.  A sixth bolt protects moves straight up a headwall to a two bolt anchor.  Descend by moving over to the Miss Piggy two bolt anchor (placed by that route’s first ascentionist in 2009), which is rigged for rappel.  As a further note, Bob’s grandmother was given the nickname “Cochinita,” or “Cochie,” by her big brother when she was an infant.  The name stayed with her for 80 years.  In Spanish, Abuela Cochinita means grandmother little pig or grandma piglet; a play on the next route to the left, Miss Piggy.  FA Party: Brad Young, Bob Walton. FA Date: April 13, 2010. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.

560.23  Poached Pig  5.10b (TR) **  The anchor bolts atop this route were discovered as the first ascent of Abuela Cochinita was being finished.  These (two) bolts are just over 15 feet right (west of) the anchor bolts for that route.  Start Poached Pig by climbing to the first bolt on Abuela Cochinita.  Continue straight up the (steep) face to the anchor bolts.  FA Party:  Unknown.  FA Date:  Unknown.  Source(s):  Discovery of the anchor bolts by Brad Young, April, 2010.  Toprope ascents of route by Jim McConachie, Brad Young, Laura and Steve Dawson, Alan Nilsson, Joel Primrose, Joe Denicola, February 6, 2011.

560.41  Ham Sandwich  5.9 *  This route climbs Spike’s Peak’s middle pinnacle.  It starts in the chimney between the middle and east pinnacles, 45 feet left (south/up-chimney) of the route Razorback (listed next).  Begin climbing Ham Sandwich where the ground at the bottom of the chimney gets noticeably steeper.  Four bolts on middle’s northeast face protect a narrow chimney.  Transition to face climbing past two more bolts to a wide, deep ledge.  The steep wall above is the route crux.  It is protected by two more bolts (eight lead bolts total).  Finish after 100 feet at the two-bolt anchor for the route Spike’s Peak (number 558 in the 2007 guidebook).  Descend by rappel in one of two ways.  First, it is possible to rappel 80 feet directly to the ground over route 558.  But, the base of that route is in a huge thicket of poison oak.  As an alternative, walk 60 feet northwest on the middle pinnacle’s summit, to the top anchor for Swine Flue (listed below).  Use this anchor to rappel 25 feet southeast to the two-bolt Razorback top anchor (which is 15 feet below the top of the pinnacle).  Make a 100 foot rappel to the ground from this anchor.  FA Party:  Gavin Emmons and Brian Hamilton.  FA Date:  November 4, 2019.  Source(s):  Email from Emmons on November 10, 2019; ascent of route with Emmons, November 12, 2019.

560.43  Razorback 5.11a ***  Razorback is a fairly long route on great rock.  It requires wild stemming back to the neighboring wall, gets increasingly difficult, and finishes with sustained crimps and delicate footwork.  The route is located on the east face of Spike’s Peak’s middle summit.  Approach from the north side of the formation (from a point about midway along the approach from the High Peaks Trail to Little Javelina).  Start where the middle and east Spike’s Peak formations come close enough together to form a chimney.  Eleven bolts lead 100 feet to a two-bolt anchor which is 15 feet below the summit.  (Note: the last two bolts were added by the first ascent party after the first ascent.)  FA Party:  Gavin Emmons and Brian Hamilton.  FA Date:  August 21, 2018.  Source(s):  Email from Emmons on August 26, 2018; watched ascents of route by Emmons and others, October 14, 2018.

560.61  Squealer Squeezer 5.4  This short route is the left-most of several located between Spike’s southwest and center pinnacles.  These several routes are listed from left to right (starting with Squealer Squeezer, the south-most route, extending past other routes to the right/north, and finishing with Dances With Warthogs, a route which parallel’s the established north-side route Little Javelina).  Approach Squealer Squeezer from the south side of Spike’s.  Squeeze into the south end of the chimney that is between the middle and southwest pinnacles, continuing to a point just before (south of) a two-foot diameter chockstone which is itself below two larger chockstones.  The route starts as a chimney and then continues up the east face of Spike’s southwest pinnacle past three bolts in 45 feet of climbing.  Finish at a two-bolt anchor located on the southeast shoulder of that southwest formation (the anchor is shared with the route Pockety Peccary, listed next).  Descend by scrambling to the southeast, past the south end of the chimney, and then to the ground.  FA Party:  Gavin Emmons (Emmons climbed the route free solo and then returned and placed the lead bolts three weeks later).  FA Date:  June 2, 2018.  Source(s):  Email from Emmons on August 26, 2018; ascent of route with Katie Young, October 14, 2018.

560.63  Pockety Peccary  5.7 *  This route is located about halfway through the chimney that divides Spike’s center and southwest pinnacles.  Approach from the north (passing under the route Bacon Bits, listed below).  A tight starting-chimney is the crux of the route.  This slowly widens until the route becomes a face-climb on the well-pocketed east side of the southwest pinnacle.  Five bolts lead up and slightly left.  Three more bolts then lead left to a two-bolt anchor 90 feet from the start (the route’s last bolt and anchor are shared with Squealer Squeezer).  FA Party:  Gavin Emmons and Alacia Welch.  FA Date:  July 22, 2018.  Source(s):  Email from Emmons on August 26, 2018; ascent of route with Gavin Emmons and Katie Young, October 14, 2018.

560.64  Swine Flue  5.10a **  An adventurous and inventive climb.  Climb to the fifth bolt of Pockety Peccary.  Continue straight up to a sixth bolt before stemming to the west face of Spike’s middle pinnacle (wild!).  Follow a shallow chute up that face past five more bolts to finish at a two-bolt anchor on Spike’s middle summit (11 lead bolts total in 120 feet).  Descend by making a 115 foot rappel back into the chimney and then to the base of the climb.  FA Party: Gavin Emmons.  FA Date:  August 5, 2018.  Source(s):  Email from Emmons on August 26, 2018; ascent of route with Gavin Emmons, October 14, 2018.

560.65  Bacon Bits  5.8 **  A fun climb which starts 20 feet south of the north end of the middle/southwest chimney (the route starts about 35 feet upslope from Dances With Warthogs, listed next).  Like its sister routes to the left, Bacon Bits starts as a squeeze chimney.  As the chimney widens, the route stays on the east face of the southwest pinnacle.  Excellent pockets lead to a crux bulge.  Finish at a separate two-bolt anchor on the southwest pinnacle, 90 feet from the start.  Protection consists of eight bolts and a few one to two inch pieces (used between the fourth and fifth bolts).  FA Party:  Gavin Emmons. FA Date: 8-12-18.  Source(s):  Email from Emmons on August 26, 2018; watched ascents of route by Emmons and others, October 14, 2018.

560.67  Dances With Warthogs  5.10a ***  An outstanding, longer climb on impeccable rock.  Start below a bulge, slightly left of Little Javelina.  The bulge protects with one to two inch cams.  Continue up and a little left to the first of 10 bolts.  These lead 115 feet to the southwest formation’s summit and a two-bolt anchor shared with Little Javelina (these anchor bolts were replaced by Gavin Emmons and John Cook on June 29, 2018).  Note: a 70-meter rope is just long enough to allow a one-rope toprope for this route and Little Javelina.  FA Party:  Gavin Emmons and Brian Hamilton.  FA Date:  June 11, 2018.  Source(s):  Email from Emmons on August 26, 2018; watched ascents of route by Emmons and others, October 14, 2018.

560.7  Mean Max  5.4  Mean Max is a large pinnacle located 250 feet north of Spike’s Peak.  It is quite tall on its north side.  The shorter south (uphill) side is 50 feet high.  A direct approach to Mean Max from Spike’s isn’t possible; a large dome (due north of Spike’s) and a scruffy cliff (west of the dome) are between the two.  Instead, move west (downhill) from the north side of Spike’s Peak.  At a point 200 feet from Spike’s west pinnacle, move north until it is possible to continue northeast to the uphill side of Mean Max.  Walk north into a wide corridor between Max and a low, long pinnacle to its east.  Continue to a notch between Max and a separate, slender spire.  Climb Mean Max’s 50 foot high east face to its spacious summit.  Protection consists of two bolts and holes for two and four inch gear.  A two-bolt summit anchor allows a rappel off the south side to a grassy area above a short, class three groove.  FA Party:  Brad Young, Jennifer Wang.  FA Date:  March 14, 2020.  Source(s):  Self, part of the first ascent party.

564.24  Rituals and Magic  5.9 ***  Four items of information preface this route description.  First, headlamps are mandatory on this climb no matter what the time of day.  The climb’s lower pitches are so deep in chimney-systems that it is impossible to see critical holds without artificial light.  Second, this route should only be climbed in very dry conditions.  It takes very little rain to make parts of the route literally slimy.  Third, the route gets one star for the climbing and one for its wildly adventurous nature.  Fourth, Rituals and Magic shares an approach, and, higher up, a “hanging meadow” with the easier route Meanderthal (listed next).  The two also parallel each other above the meadow.  Consider learning the approach and the north side of H and L Dome by climbing Meanderthal before attempting Rituals and Magic.
Approach:  Approach from the High Peaks Trail by walking around The Smokestack’s east (left) side into a wide dirt gully below its south face (this gully descends from northwest to southeast under the steep northeast side of The Flakes).  Walk down this wide dirt gully (southeast), staying 50 to 100 feet out from the wall below The Flakes.  At a point 200 yards below (due south from) The Smokestack, look for Meanderthal’s brushy, up-and-left, first pitch ramp (with the 10 foot high wide-crack start).  Continue downhill another 250 feet from this point to the top of a series of small rock ridges/boulders.  Descend these, class three and four, 40 feet to a series of water-polished alcoves below a noticeable, deep chimney-bottom/water chute.  By way of further identification of the route’s start-point, these alcoves are 200 feet west and slightly higher uphill from the formations Chuck and Carol.  Note also an eight-foot high, finger-like spire 100 feet uphill/southeast from the start point (along the main wall).
Pitch One, 5.4 (80 feet):  Move up to a fixed piton at the back of the highest alcove.  Traverse from it five feet left, into the deep chimney-bottom.  Continue walking straight back in the chimney to a point where level progress is no longer possible.  Belay from gear.
Pitch Two, 5.8 (45 feet):  Climb the flaring chimney above.  The pitch crux comes where a protruding lodestone forces a climber out from the flare.  Belay from a roomy, flat alcove (“The Crow’s Nest”) from one bolt and tiny gear. 
Pitch Three, 5.7 (55 feet):  Note the huge chockstone directly above the pitch two belay (“Godzilla’s Testicle”).  Although the route passes over this feature, it does so only after all climbers are out from under it, above and to its side.  Chimney up and right (toward the outside of the chimney) from The Crow’s Nest to a two-bolt anchor above a lodestone stance.  Protection (all on the same wall as the pitch-two belay bolt) consists of a hole which takes a good four-inch piece, and three lead bolts. 
Pitch Four, 5.7 (55 feet):  Move down onto the top of Godzilla’s Testicle.  Crux moves lead up twin cracks on the right (right when facing into the chimney).  A wide, easy slot leads to an unprotected 5.5 squeeze chimney.  Belay from trees just below a series of flat rock-tops interspersed with patches of grass (the “hanging meadow”).  Note that this belay point is about 50 feet left (south) from the start of Meanderthal’s second pitch.
Pitch Five, 5.7 (130 feet):  Walk into the start of another deep, straight-back/southeast-to-northwest oriented chimney (it parallels the chimney climbed by Meanderthal’s second pitch).  Pass a separate, smaller, southwest-oriented, left-branch chimney which allows walk-up access to the top of the second pitch of the route Feather Canyon.  A short headwall is bypassed by way of a 5.2, right-to-left traverse.  Continue levelly to another headwall 85 feet from the start.  Overcome this with 12 feet of 5.5 chimneying to the right.  Move to the back of a large, tree-filled, flat alcove (slings through a hole in the rock allow an optional belay here).  Fifteen feet of 5.7 lead into another flat-floored alcove (“The Cockpit”) and a two-bolt anchor.
Pitch Six, 5.9 (65 feet):  Two bolts protect 25 feet of flared chimney.  Continue in the now lower-angle, still-flared chimney to a third bolt (on the right wall, just above the first chockstone).  Reach a point below a series of chockstones.  Chimney out and around these, to a two-bolt belay above. 
Pitch Seven, 5.3 (55 feet):  Move up eight feet onto the tops of a series of large boulders.  Go left and a little up through oak trees to a belay platform at the base of an up-and-left,  low-angle water chute (it has a 20 foot high groove/seam just to its right).
Pitch Eight, 5.6 (100 feet):  Climb a headwall 15 feet to a bolt.  A fixed piton five feet higher protects moves up and left into the main chute.  Climb past three more bolts to a point just below a huge boulder.  Move up and left to a one-bolt belay behind the boulder.
Pitch Nine, 5.5 (145 feet):  Walk 75 feet uphill/south in a meadow to join the sixth pitch of the route Feather Canyon.  A short face on the right, to the right of the largest pinnacle, leads to a flat area.  Move left to another short face which leads to the top of the ridge.  Belay by placing a large loop of rope over a small pinnacle.
Pitch Ten, 5.4 (100 feet):  Move down 10 feet.  Climb a 20-foot face past a bolt.  Walk down and left along the ridge-top.  Continue around the right side of a pinnacle to a one-bolt belay.
Pitch Eleven, 5.3 (145 feet):  Move left and then up to a bolt 20 feet above the belay.  Continue to an up-and-right ramp.   Follow this to a short headwall protected by a second bolt.  A third bolt 15 feet higher protects a last, very short headwall.  Continue north over a series of humps on the ridge-top to the summit of H and L Dome and a two-bolt anchor.
Descent:  Reverse the class four, second pitch of H and L - Regular Route (down and then up to the top of that route’s first pitch).  Rappel to the ground.
Gear:  One each tiny to four inches.
FA Party:  Aaron McDonald, Jon Cochran, Brad Young, Noal Elkins, Geoff Norris, John Cook.  FA Date:  November 17, 2019.  Source(s):  Detailed verbal description of route with a topo by Jon Cochran, November 5, 2019; ascent of route with Jennifer Wang and Jon Cochran, November 10 and 17, 2019.

564.2 Meanderthal 5.5 * This adventurous multi-pitch climb lies in the complex series of gullies, rock fins and pinnacles below/east of The Flakes and northeast of H&L Dome (the area can be seen well from the Condor Gulch Trail at The Peanuts).  Meanderthal is a fun route that is similar in nature to Feather Canyon; it takes a smart line of weakness among otherwise impenetrable walls, it’s multi-pitch, and it’s a good adventure.  Note too that the route can easily be done in shorter pitches than are described below (if, for example, inexperienced climbers needing closer attention are along).
Preparation: Take a few small cams, one four inch piece and several runners.  It is also strongly recommended that climbers not take a pack on this route.  Instead, leave packs near the top, on the approach to The Flakes, before walking back to the trail and around to start the approach.
Approach:  Approach from the High Peaks Trail by walking around The Smokestack’s east (left) side into a wide dirt gully below its south face (this gully descends from northwest to southeast under the steep northeast side of The Flakes). Walk down this wide dirt gully (southeast), staying 50 to 100 feet out from the wall below The Flakes.  The first part of Meanderthal climbs a brushy, up-and-left ramp that is 200 yards below (due south from) The Smokestack.  A ten foot high wide crack (the start of the route) allows access to the ramp.
Pitch One, 5.0 (145 feet): Climb the ten foot high wide crack (5.0), then move up and left on the bushy ledge. After 75 feet drop down over a boulder into a flat dirt area at the base of a large chimney/slot (optional belay here). Move left 30 feet onto jumbled boulders. From the top of the boulders a mossy slab leads 20 feet up and over a shoulder (class four). End at another flat dirt area below two large chimneys (with another chimney 50 feet further along).
Pitch Two, 5.5 (110 feet): Move past bushes into a chamber at the base of the largest/central chimney (a huge chockstone looms overhead). A low angle, shallow slot leads 40 feet to a few chimney moves and a stance. Move left around a bulge to a bolt on the left wall, 55 feet from the start of the pitch, and directly under the huge chockstone. Continue up on very smooth rock (possible gear here) between smaller chockstones and through a tight slot onto the tops of the chockstones (optional belay here too). Another 50 feet of nearly level terrain leads to a single belay bolt (behind branches) on the left wall of the right-most chimney.
Pitch Three, 5.5 (100 feet): From the belay bolt, chimney 15 feet onto a large chockstone (the four inch piece is helpful here). Move to and then up a short face with a curved crack/flake on the left (gear). Continue slightly left into another slot/hole under a large chockstone. Finish through this into a meadow.
Pitch Four, Class Three (170 feet): From the right side of the meadow, walk up into the largest, central gully (toward a four foot diameter chockstone that looks like it will impede passage; it's actually passed easily on the left). Continue under overhanging rock to a low angle gully (take class four rock on the left or easier dirt with some brush on the right). This gully leads directly to the six foot diameter chockstone which is described in the approach directions for The Flakes (in the 2007 guidebook, page 226).
FA Party: Jon Cochran, John Cook, Kathy Cook. FA Date: October 4, 2014. Source(s): Email description of route from John Cook, October 13, 2014; ascent of route with John and Kathy Cook, and Tricia Young, November 9, 2014.

564.61  Where’s Waldo  5.10a **  Where’s Waldo is an excellent lead put up by a determined team drilling from stance only.  It is on the north-facing wall below Frothy Flake, 250 feet southeast of The Smokestack.  The route and the wall it climbs can be seen well from near The Lump.  Start the approach from the trail by walking to The Smokestack.  Move around that formation’s east (left) side and into a wide dirt gully/hillside below its south face.   This large gully descends from west-to-east under the steep north side of The Flakes.  From the south side of The Smokestack, move directly across this gully and onto a dirt ramp that leads up-and-left (east).  Continue on this ramp 80 feet up to a saddle with a pine.  From the pine, move down a dirt ramp 70 feet before moving across a band of rock to the right and reaching the base of the climb.  The first bolt of Where’s Waldo is 10 feet off the ground, just up and left of a fractured lodestone.  A second bolt is four feet above that.  The third bolt is in a distinctive four foot by two foot depression/hole in the rock.  From the third bolt, climb left and up past more bolts to a water streak, then up to a two-bolt anchor (a total of seven bolts plus a slung knob protect this 80 foot long first pitch).  The second pitch climbs steep rock past two bolts to a low angle finish at the base of Frothy Flake, 30 feet up.  Continue back 20 feet to a two-bolt anchor.  A 70 meter rope allows a one-rope rappel to the ground from this upper anchor; a 60 meter rope requires two one-rope rappels.  FA Party:  Aaron McDonald, Jon Cochran, Bob Walton, Levi Goldman. FA Date: January 12, 2014. Source(s): Discussions about route with Aaron McDonald and Jon Cochran, followed by an ascent of the route on October 26, 2014.

571.81 Quasimodo Pinnacle  5.7 R A1  Quasimodo Pinnacle is a taller formation 80 feet southeast of (uphill from) The Keep.  It is 80 yards from Eggshell (that is, closer to the route Eggshell than is The Keep).  The formation is flanked on its east and west sides by shorter rocks.  It also has a pronounced shoulder on its south side.  Climb the rock immediately west of the main pinnacle (very easy fifth class).  Once on top, throw a rope over the pronounced shoulder.  Secure one end and jumar the rope (the length of this ascent is much shorter on the west side than on the east).  Once on the shoulder, exposed climbing leads a few feet to a bolt.  The summit is just under 15 feet above the bolt.  There are three bolts on the summit, two are very old and one is new.  Chains facilitate the rappel.  FA Party:  Unknown.  FA Date:  Unknown.  Source(s):  Discovery of the lead bolt and a summit bolt by Brad Young, Jim McConachie and Bob Walton, January, 2011.  Subsequent ascent of route by Brad Young and Jim McConachie, February 7, 2011.

571.83  The Keep  5.8 R  The Keep is a 45-foot high, cone-shaped pinnacle found among several other pinnacles in the area between Dragonfly Dome (in The High Peaks) and The Citadel (on The West Side).  The Keep in particular is located on a direct line between Dragonfly Dome and the back of The Citadel, 150 yards from each formation.  It is also about 150 yards due east of The Egg.  The group of pinnacles can be approached either from The High Peaks or from The West Side.  From The High Peaks walk to the base of the route Eggshell (not The Egg, which is a different formation farther east).  From that route continue downhill along the west side of the formation to its lowest point.  Continue from that lowest point west across the hillside.  The first pinnacle in this group is 80 yards from Eggshell and slightly lower in elevation (this first pinnacle has much shorter rocks on its east and west sides and a pronounced shoulder on its south side).  The Keep is below (northwest) of the first pinnacle in this group, 100 yards from Eggshell.  To approach The Keep from The West Side, hike to the back side of The Citadel.  A fairly brush free approach can be made to The Keep and rocks near it from this point, 150 yards uphill along the top of a low ridge.  Also, from the back of The Citadel, looking south (uphill), The Keep and other formations can be seen as follows:  a larger formation, called Sunkist Dome, is visible to the right a little less than 150 yards away (look for a very large, round area of orange lichen high on its north side).  One hundred feet to the left of Sunkist Dome is a 25-foot high pinnacle that blends into the terrain behind it and which is between Sunkist Dome and The Keep.  One hundred more feet to the left of this small rock is The Keep which is fairly uniform in shape, appearing like a steep, upside down cone.  The Keep has a route on its uphill (south) side.  Loose 5.7 leads 12 feet to a basketball-size lodestone.  A few feet past the lodestone is a ledge.  Clip a bolt from this ledge (the bolt is 15 feet up and right of the lodestone).  Crux moves above the bolt lead to a horizontal crack (protection to two inches) and then easier climbing to the summit.  There is a two bolt summit anchor (one bolt is new).  FA Party:  Unknown, but, given the style of climbing and bolting (very solid Star Dryvin bolts including one placed in an incredibly solid lodestone, a one bolt original summit anchor and very bold, runout climbing), possibly Glen Denny and Gary Colliver.  FA Date:  Unknown.  Source(s):  Self, discovery and ascent of previously unreported route (ascent with Jim McConachie and Bob Walton).

571.85  Party of Three  5.7 R  This route is on the southeast side of Sunkist Dome.  Sunkist Dome is 200 feet northwest of The Keep (there is a 25 foot high pinnacle about midway between the two).  Sunkist is named for the large area of bright orange lichen on its north side (easy to see from the back side of The Citadel).  Start Party of Three with 15 feet of class four up a mossy face with holes.  This leads to a broad, flat terrace and the beginning of the roped climbing.  From the terrace, climb 15 feet straight up over holes to a slab (sling a grapefruit-size knob for protection).  An up-and-right crack at the top of the slab takes protection to 1 ½ inches.  Easy moves lead five more feet to a small ledge from which a bolt can be clipped.  Continue up and right in a shallow groove.  Easier moves lead a few feet more to the summit.  There is a two bolt summit anchor (with chains).  FA Party:  Jim McConachie, Brad Young, Bob Walton.  FA Date:  January 15, 2011.  Source(s):  Self, part of the first ascent party.

578.6  The Clump - Feeling Lucky Punk  5.6  This route is on a trailside formation called The Clump. 
The Clump:  The Clump is a multi-summited pinnacle located 80 feet west of The Lump (toward Dragonfly Dome), and 250 feet northeast of The Smokestack.  Its lower elevation, northmost summit rises directly from the southeast side of the High Peaks Trail (the trail is oriented southwest to northeast here).  Two routes climb to its main (south) summit.  Both start on its uphill side.
This Route:  Feeling Luck Punk can almost be seen in the photo on page 232 of the 2007 guidebook - it is directly under The Lump’s route number (579) in that photo.  Look for two bolts on the left side of the southeast face.  Start directly below the first bolt.  Continue 40 feet to a two bolt summit anchor.  FA Party:  Jon Cochran, Aaron McDonald.  FA Date:  December 7, 2013.  Source(s):  Report of the route from Cochran and McDonald (in person), December 14, 2013; subsequent ascent of the route on December 28, 2013.

578.8  The Clump - Scrambler’s Route  Class Four  Scrambler’s Route leads to the top of The Clump’s main, south summit.  Start at the highest point of dirt on The Clump’s east side.  Move a few feet north, over/through a low slot.  Climb a right-facing corner to a slab.  This leads to the summit, 45 feet from the start.  FA Party:  Unknown.  FA Date:  Unknown.  Source(s):  Solo ascent of route, February 14, 2020.

579.1  High Peaks Drifter  5.8  High Peaks Drifter starts 15 feet right of the regular route on The Lump (route 579). Climb past two bolts to join The Lump at its second bolt. Share its last few moves to the summit.  FA Party:  Jon Cochran, Aaron McDonald.  FA Date:  December 7, 2013.  Source(s):  Report of the route from Cochran and McDonald (in person), December 14, 2013; subsequent ascent of the route on December 28, 2013.

579.5  What I’ve Been Missing Out On  5.7  This route is on the southwest (downhill) face of a formation called Mucci’s Mound. 
Mucci’s Mound:  Mucci’s Mound is a nondescript formation located 150 feet northeast from The Lump and 150 feet south of the High Peaks Trail.  It has a short uphill (north) side which blends into sub-summits and scattered small pinnacles nearby.  The mound’s southeast (downhill) face is much taller.  Both Mucci’s Mound climbing routes are on this face.  Its top, and the end point for both routes, is the farthest southeast summit (the two-bolt anchor there is easy to see from on top of rocks to its north).  Approach the base by hiking down along the east side of the formation (the si

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #2 on: February 25, 2009, 03:16:16 PM »
New addition today, The Wolf 5.7 R (see above).

New addition Feb 10, 2009, The Road to Bagalaar 5.8 R (see above).

F4?

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #3 on: February 26, 2009, 02:24:56 AM »
Quote
24.1  The Road To Bagalaar 5.8 R

I heard about this one from Fabrizio. Sounds like you can continue the route upwards??
I'm not worthy.

MUCCI

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #4 on: February 28, 2009, 10:06:01 AM »
That was the original intent to climb up to and out the 5 foot roof crack.  Upon reaching the ledge, the headwall and roof crack were deemed too Bagalaar to continue to the summit.  Thus the name "The Road to Bagalaar" 

mynameismud

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    • Mudncrud
Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #5 on: May 11, 2009, 10:12:13 AM »
Newly reported route
Gavins blank " I forgot the name I will find it then at it here"
Rating not sure I have not climbed it. 
Start on Stupendous Man, pull the mantle then lead out to an old rusty quarter inch bolt.  Clip the bolt then tend up and left to a corner.  Place some ok gear in some quality Pinnacles Mud.   Move up and left toward Lithium, through the corner of the arch,  where there are some large knobs.  Clip the last bolt on Lithium and finish on Lithium.

I suppose I should wait to have all the information but I wanted to get this in before I forgot.

I heard of a variation where someone went straight up the face below Stupendous man, then pulled the mantle, (without clipping the bolt).
Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #6 on: May 11, 2009, 10:19:16 AM »
Sounds like it might be a worthwhile route - especially if that old quarter incher was replaced.

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #7 on: May 11, 2009, 01:55:50 PM »


I heard of a variation where someone went straight up the face below Stupendous man, then pulled the mantle, (without clipping the bolt).

I heard the same or something similar.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

MUCCI

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #8 on: May 12, 2009, 09:04:20 PM »
Is this the bolt just under the small roof/right facing corner (left of STMAN) then up the face to the bolted belay ledge?  I have thought about replacing it, whats the word on the route?  Seems possible to TR it before or to replace the bolt, the climbing looks hard around the corner.

I have looked at that line for a while and would be happy to "Tune it up"
Mucci

mynameismud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #9 on: May 12, 2009, 09:38:20 PM »
That is the bolt.  Rap in from the bolts at the top of Lithium or Stupendous Man, or a tree on top.

  I think the route is 10 b/c.  Talk to Gavin to get the real name and the juicy details.  I heard the moves through the corner over the bulge are not that bad and kinda of fun.

I looks cool from the ground with the big jugs hanging out there to grab onto.
Here's to sweat in your eye

Gavin

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #10 on: May 15, 2009, 03:27:28 PM »
Hey gang, thought I should finally get on this forum with some information on the climb between Stupendous Man and Lithium... Though I didn't see it in Brad's book, I assumed someone must have done it before, otherwise I would have added some details here earlier. If no one else has done it and mine was the first ascent (a couple months ago now), I called it "Tangent," probably 5.10a/b at this point. (Though a couple others mentioned "Gavin's Tangent" as a possibility... You be the judge!)

At any rate, looks like most folks have a sense of where it goes, though there are a couple variations from the ground. To lead it, start at Stupendous Man, go over the roof section, then clip up to the old quarter incher Brad mentioned. From there, follow the instructions from "My Name is Mud" above on May 11. From the rusty quarter inch bolt to the last bolt on Lithium, the best place for pro is midway, in the side-cling/under-cling move as you're stretching left... Given the potentially crumbly quality of the rock, a couple pieces are recommended! Using Metolius TCUs, I think yellow to red are usable, and possibly a bit smaller.

The variation start is good too, a bit more challenging (closer to 5.10b/c or so, I'd guess), but tougher to do on lead, probably safer on TR, due to the lack of good pro options until you're over the roof mantle. Start between Lithium and Stupendous Man on the thin face, climb up to the roof section but stay left of the usual moves for Stupendous Man, then over the roof to the rusty quarter inch bolt, and on up from there. The thin face start is pretty cool, I think. Iztok's friend Tomek (sp?) was the first to give the variation a go.

Both variations are good... The moves themselves aren't super hard, but definitely typify the "Pinnacles experience" of climbing on some potentially unstable exposed rock / knobs and wondering if they'll hold (and praying they do).

Hope that helps!

P.S. Redoing that rusty quarter inch bolt sounds like a great idea. Any takers?

Gavin

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #11 on: May 15, 2009, 03:36:28 PM »
Brad -

I wasn't sure if you wanted me to provide details in the route list you have going according to your system above, or if you want to go ahead and do so. Let me know.

Gavin

MUCCI

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #12 on: May 15, 2009, 03:38:39 PM »
Thanks for the word Gavin, Going up sunday to replace that bolt and the right anchor bolt on "The Roof".

OHHHHHHHHHHHH it's gonna be hot!!!!!!!!!!!!
Mucci

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #13 on: May 15, 2009, 04:11:17 PM »
Gavin, I like "Gavin's Tangent." Take some credit where it is due. I'd put "possibly" or even "probably" after "FA" and before the details. Maybe it's been done and maybe someone placed the bolt and bailed. Or it was an aid route, or a girdle traverse. Et-cetera. No-one will ever know.

On formatting and the list above, I'll enter it later tonight, or you can as you want. I tried to develop the format to help some future dumb sap who does the 2023 edition of the book - I thought that a uniform format type of entry, listing all information then known might help prevent said future sap from having to chase all over hellangone looking for rumors. That plus I think it is quickly readable and understandable.

Well done.

And Josh, if you're there suffering and you've got time. both bolts on the upper part of Gutter are pretty bad. Thanks for spending time and $ to benefit all of us other climbers.

EDIT: I guess the way I set up the original list (as one entry), only I can add to that entry. So, yeah I'll try to add it in tonight or Sunday. Be sure to let me know if I miss on some details.

Gavin

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #14 on: May 15, 2009, 06:48:07 PM »
Brad, sounds good in regards to posting a description, and thanks for the details... I'll check after it's posted.

Mucci, be careful in the heat! It's supposed to be over a hundred degrees the next few days! Yikes!

Gavin

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #15 on: May 15, 2009, 07:38:58 PM »
OK, Gavin, Dennis, there is a start. I tried to combine both your entries (plus my memory) into one concise listing. I didn't list variants, since most Pinns routes have a ton of the same. As always I've chosen the lower of two grades from a split grade. Also, I have no idea about stars, so make suggestions. Finally, the number, ending in ".9" seemed right given that it starts on Stupendous Man.  Gavin, I'm guessing on the FA date, and it sounds like it may have been before this year. Do you have anything more specific?

Next step (for me anyway) is to print it out in the same type style and font size as the Pinns Guide. Then glue it in the book. Then climb it next season.

Gavin, come on up to granite at least once this season. Buncha Pinns climbers can show you around the Sonora Pass areas.

MUCCI

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #16 on: May 15, 2009, 07:48:20 PM »
AH, 100 Degrees? Bring it on........Training for this years wall season!  I will try and replace all four, if not I will bump the Roof anchor till the fall. 

Have fun this weekend gentlemen,

Gavin

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #17 on: May 16, 2009, 06:44:10 AM »
Brad, thanks for the update; sounds good to me. Okay, for FA, I'll throw out March 5, 2009 as the date, near as I can tell. I probably got on it at least a bit before that as well, but that date I can remember for certain.

About Sonora Pass: yeah, that sounds fun. I think Alacia and I should be passing through that way in July, but if that's too late I could probably find a way up earlier too. I'll let you know.

MUCCI

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #18 on: May 17, 2009, 07:29:34 PM »
107 degrees of Bolt Manipulation

Oh man was it hot at the Pinns Today!  Started at "Gavins Tangent", Placed a SS 3/8 x 3.25 w/ SS Fixe Hanger 2" left and 3" above the Old buttonhead.  The clipping stance was not altered.  
Then came the most punishing bolt removal of my life, Couldn't get the Tuning fork under the hanger (concaved placement).  Out came the 4 foot Modified Crowbar!  It became apparent very quickly how much I have to learn about removal.  It felt as if I was cast into Hell for a hard day of labor, then spit out into a hot spring every 29 minutes just to make sure I was Properly suffering!  After 2 hours of a knuckle wrecking crowbar party, the sucker popped out! Good lookin bolt if I may say so, Could still see original metal that had not rusted through.  Whipped out my cake batter and talus mix and concocted a patch that mom would be proud of!

Did some moves on the fixed line, breaking out and left under the roof was fun and the moves didn't seem that bad, .9?  Looks like a great line.  Another variation one might choose is moving out and right from the roof, up the RFC which is wide, No pro above but could TR no problem.

Things I learned while replacing 1 bolt in 3 hours:
It's hard to start at the top and go down (got off route looking for the Gutter sorry Brad)
Never go to Pinns when it is over 100 degrees!
My method of removal is not the quickest.
Gather Many types of gravel/talus/dirt/munge for fine tuning the patch.
Yates bolt bags are the Best!

Hope somebody sends this thing, after all it has natural pro which is a plus in my book.
Mucci


Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #19 on: May 17, 2009, 09:11:51 PM »
Nice, Josh. Thanks for the work.