Author Topic: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)  (Read 2841022 times)

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #20 on: May 17, 2009, 09:25:02 PM »
oh man, that's crazy! 

Pinns season is over, for now. :)

On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #21 on: May 18, 2009, 03:07:49 PM »
Mucci,

Thank you for fixing that.  I am sure that route will get a few ascents when it cools down a bit.

I am thinking of going down there is weekend.  If I do I will stay in the shade.
Here's to sweat in your eye

F4?

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #22 on: May 19, 2009, 07:15:25 AM »
Quote
I am thinking of going down there is weekend.  If I do I will stay in the shade.

I'd join ya, but I'll be diving in the Channel Islands. Tough life.  :ciappa:
I'm not worthy.

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #23 on: May 19, 2009, 08:26:01 AM »
glad you're able to get out. take loads of pics of fishes.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

squiddo

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #24 on: May 19, 2009, 03:11:50 PM »
and don't let the sharkies get ya! :out:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

F4?

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #25 on: May 20, 2009, 08:44:46 AM »
Quote
and don't let the sharkies get ya!

Don't have to worry this trip. South Africa in October....different story. For a mere $170 bucks I get to hop into a cage check them out.  :thumbup:

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squiddo

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #26 on: May 20, 2009, 10:18:43 AM »
sweet, bring the chicken meat
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

Gavin

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #27 on: June 06, 2009, 04:08:17 PM »
Hey Gang -

So, I have another question about a route on Discovery Wall... I did it today and don't see it on Brad's list or in the update list. I'm not sure if it qualifies as a full route or if folks have already been through this, but here goes.

It starts at the base of Swallow Crack and follows up a third or half of Swallow Crack. From there, you go straight up over an overhanging arete and right-facing dihedral (a bit of both) with some interesting pinches and a finger crack bit or two, through a few more burly moves, then into the 5.10b crux of Jorgie's Continuation and up through the rest of that climb. Between the Swallow Crack and Jorgie's Continuation parts, the moves were committing, with a couple of cool shifting balance bits. I would guess the moves are 5.11a, and definitely a bit more stout for shorter folks.

At any rate, just thought I'd throw that out there and see if other folks have been on it. In Brad's book on pg. 56 the moves take you between the middle "74" (Swallow Crack) and the first "77" (Jorgie's Continuation), over the right-facing dihedral depicted.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #28 on: June 07, 2009, 01:07:37 PM »
Here we get into shades of gray. In a lot of Pinns areas "connections" and "link-ups" are easy and plentiful. When does a minor variation become a separate route, worthy of listing as such? Probably when climbers reach consensus that it's independent "enough."

So with the route Gavin describes, is it worthy of listing as a "separate route?" In my opinion, the fact that it is a lead and not a toprope weighs in heavily on the "separate route" side. Also an issue, is how much of it is an independent line (i.e. previously unclimbed rock)? Sounds to me like a significant amount of it is. In fact, it sounds like it covers more previously unclimbed rock  than Triage, for example, which only covers a few feet of new ground.

Pick a name, Gavin, give it a rating. What's the FA date?

Finally, Gavin, you're doing this type of new stuff on Discovery now what, monthly? You're obviously bored. Cure the boredom, get on up here for a while in the off season.

F4?

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #29 on: June 07, 2009, 01:44:39 PM »
At this rate Gavin's going to have that girdle figured out. Oops did I spill the beans?
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MUCCI

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #30 on: June 08, 2009, 10:29:47 PM »
1 Vote for "Jorgie Swallows"

F4?

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #31 on: June 09, 2009, 06:34:30 AM »
Quote
Finally, Gavin, you're doing this type of new stuff on Discovery now what, monthly? You're obviously bored. Cure the boredom, get on up here for a while in the off season.
Thought the cure for boredom was do climb every route in the guidebook.

1 more vote for Jorgie Swallows
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #32 on: June 09, 2009, 07:35:33 AM »
"Thought the cure for boredom was do climb every route in the guidebook."

Well, I've never been bored. But I only climb there during the right season.

EDITED after posting (to make it easier for simple minds :) )

mynameismud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #33 on: June 09, 2009, 08:56:13 AM »
All the routes in one season?
Impressive.
Here's to sweat in your eye

F4?

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #34 on: June 09, 2009, 10:29:45 AM »
Quote
All the routes in one season?
Sure, if you climbed 5 to 7 days a week.
I'm not worthy.

Gavin

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #35 on: June 09, 2009, 10:51:18 AM »
Sorry for the late response... Busy with confirming fledge of prairie falcons from several nests.

Brad, I hear you about the gray area of new routes; if folks want to check it out before calling it a genuine route or just refer to it as a variation, that's fine by me. I'm guessing that between Swallow Crack and the crux of Jorgie's Continuation there are about 15 feet of moves... It does make for a nice, straight(ish) line up to the Jorgie's Continuation anchors.

In the event that folks do want it referred to as a new route, here's some info.:

Name: Jorgie's Swallow (...Funny, that really is the name I was thinking of before reading the replies!)
Grade: 5.10d (...Perhaps a bit harder given that the moves are rather difficult to protect, but I'll be conservative.)
FA: Well, it was June 6, 2009 for me, but I saw 2 women struggling on TR on it on May 31, 2009... They thought they were on Swallow Crack. Their names were Joanne and Abby, but I didn't get their last names.
Protection: Not great through the moves, and that makes the moves rather heady... You can use a piece or two on Swallow Crack, but otherwise there are one or two crack holes that are 0.5" x 2", then up to the crux bolt on Jorgie's Continuation. The best of the crack holes also felt like a critical hold to me, so best to place a piece after getting above it.

I think that's about it. Brad: yeah, I do want to get up your way. Just hard right now with raptors fledging young! I'm hoping to get up that way at the end of the month, but might just be for backpacking... I'll let you know.

Gavin

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #36 on: June 09, 2009, 10:53:08 AM »
Whoops, just saw my typo on the route name... Go for "Jorgie Swallows" if that makes sense to everyone.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #37 on: June 09, 2009, 12:29:34 PM »
Gavin, sounds like the newborns are keeping you very busy? Maybe you and Factor have a lot to talk about.

Sounds like a legit route (IMNeverHO the prior TR with hangs doesn't count as an ascent). Should I edit the list above, even though we're waaay out of season and I can hardly even spell Pinanclees? And BTW, since it is its own route, is it worth its own protection bolt (placed on lead of course, or be cursed to hell forever and ever)? Or since you led it bold, leave it that way?

MUCCI

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #38 on: June 09, 2009, 02:02:14 PM »
Ha! Good name choice G.

mynameismud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #39 on: June 09, 2009, 03:04:57 PM »
no bolt.
Here's to sweat in your eye