Author Topic: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)  (Read 2841052 times)

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #40 on: June 09, 2009, 03:54:57 PM »
"no bolt."

When I predicted DES"s response, I only got it half right. It was easy to see "no bolt" coming, but I'm surprised he didn't add: "and rate it 5.9+."

Gavin

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #41 on: June 09, 2009, 07:02:24 PM »
Brad, I'd say feel free to edit the list above if you have the time, otherwise it certainly could wait as we're into summer (though the weather has continued to be beautiful with highs in the LOW 80s).

As for a protection bolt, my instinct is to say "no," as folks that are uncomfortable with the lead can easily hike up top and set the route up on TR. And if you are leading it, folks will need trad pro anyway through the Swallow Crack start. But it's probably worth emphasizing that the lead is stout through the 5.10d parts and thin on pro. I'll try getting on it again soon and let you know if I think differently on the bolt vs. trad pro. Does that sound good?

About the fledglings... Yeah, 4 more nests to check this weekend, with 5 falcons apiece flying out. Keeping track of them all is like herding cats!

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #42 on: June 09, 2009, 07:52:50 PM »
As for a protection bolt, my instinct is to say "no," as folks that are uncomfortable with the lead can easily hike up top and set the route up on TR. And if you are leading it, folks will need trad pro anyway through the Swallow Crack start. But it's probably worth emphasizing that the lead is stout through the 5.10d parts and thin on pro. I'll try getting on it again soon and let you know if I think differently on the bolt vs. trad pro. Does that sound good?

Sounds good. As I see it this is completely your call; you're the first ascentionist and you decide these things.

And about the young'ns, sounds like you do have a lot in common with Factor (all right, his "fledgling" is human).

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #43 on: June 09, 2009, 08:08:01 PM »
OK, Gavin, how does that look (trying to extrapolate from what you wrote)?

Gavin

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #44 on: June 10, 2009, 02:18:44 PM »
Brad, that sounds great. Thanks for the post!

mynameismud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #45 on: June 10, 2009, 08:15:38 PM »
no bolt
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #46 on: June 11, 2009, 08:15:53 AM »
multiple bolts, no more than 2' apart

 ;)
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

F4?

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #47 on: June 11, 2009, 10:29:45 AM »
Quote
multiple bolts, no more than 2' apart
Shiny ones to!

Munge, let's live a little...3' apart
I'm not worthy.

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #48 on: June 11, 2009, 11:46:43 AM »
I knew that would draw out the F4.

hahahah
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

F4?

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #49 on: June 11, 2009, 06:11:31 PM »
Quote
I knew that would draw out the F4.

hahahah

I'll even drill em with the drill Mr Mud gave me!
I'm not worthy.

mynameismud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #50 on: June 11, 2009, 06:14:37 PM »
DIE
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #51 on: October 18, 2009, 03:53:14 PM »
Though I know Brad doesn't always capture all top rope problems, as I was contemplating the upcoming pinns season in my "office," I noticed that no TR was provided for the RFC between 155 and 157 so thought I should mention it here.  I seem to recall Clint and I discussed this corner before trying to figure out who had gone up it first. I figure the difficulty is around 10b/c, but my memory if fuzzy on the grade. But I distinctly recall the rock being pretty good with minimal flakey lichen.

On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #52 on: October 18, 2009, 04:39:41 PM »
Do not have the guidebook at hand so it is a bit of a guess here, but would that be, between, The Beast and Cantalope Death?

Though I know Brad doesn't always capture all top rope problems, as I was contemplating the upcoming pinns season in my "office," I noticed that no TR was provided for the RFC between 155 and 157 so thought I should mention it here.  I seem to recall Clint and I discussed this corner before trying to figure out who had gone up it first. I figure the difficulty is around 10b/c, but my memory if fuzzy on the grade. But I distinctly recall the rock being pretty good with minimal flakey lichen.


Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #53 on: October 18, 2009, 05:11:08 PM »
Also, on Flumes Face, the line going directly straight down the rap from the right set of anchors at the top of 693 is a nice top rope problem. I don't recall the difficulty, but it was within keeping of the other lines in the area if not easier.

It's worth noting that the large ramp on the very left edge of the NE Face is an amazing meadowy ramp and well worth staying off of.  
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #54 on: October 18, 2009, 05:11:40 PM »
Do not have the guidebook at hand so it is a bit of a guess here, but would that be, between, The Beast and Cantalope Death?


ya
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #55 on: October 27, 2009, 05:20:03 PM »
Waldo and I met today for an afternoon on the West Side. I got in 4 routes that I'd never done before (792 and counting). One of these was Josh's route The Wolf, on The Shepherd. The route description above is good, but I've got to note that the stopper placement he described is absolutely bomber, plus plus. A medium stopper, between large lodestones. Since I'm careless about having a nut tool at Pinns and neither Bob, not I could remove the nut without one, I had to hike all the way back out to The Shepherd, now with a tool, after dropping off the pack, just to clean my piece.

Good first day of Pinns season.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #56 on: November 14, 2009, 10:38:39 PM »
Added a new route to the list today: Blackjack (route # 457.8, on Casino Rock).

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #57 on: December 06, 2009, 09:38:21 PM »
New addition today, Los Banditos 5.10a A1*. Route 815.4

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #58 on: December 06, 2009, 10:44:04 PM »
nice job guys! 

quick clarify on the description...

"The pitch finishes with 15 feet of easy slab to a stance and two bolts."

are the two bolts the belay bolts, or lead protection bolts?

thx,
M
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #59 on: December 07, 2009, 07:24:20 AM »
Now clarified.