Author Topic: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)  (Read 2841004 times)

Ubergoober

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #60 on: December 12, 2009, 06:52:24 PM »
Brad -

Rob and I will go finish our projects on the aforementioned location this season.

-jl
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #61 on: December 12, 2009, 07:14:48 PM »
Nice, lemme know when you get to it.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #62 on: December 22, 2009, 05:37:02 PM »
Added to the list two routes on Tadpole Rock, one of which we discovered last year and the other done as a first ascent this last Saturday. I've never had a hammer "bounce off" the drill in such an odd way as it did while I was placing the third bolt. Bled like hell, but there I was, 6 feet above the last bolt (see photos below). The three bolts leading up and left from Brown Rice... is an ongoing project, leave it alone.




squiddo

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #63 on: December 22, 2009, 08:31:35 PM »
Ouch, BRUtaL Brad
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
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mynameismud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #64 on: December 22, 2009, 08:45:40 PM »
Tell the truth.  Who did you piss off at the bar?
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #65 on: December 22, 2009, 09:53:16 PM »
really close to the eyeball, eh? yeeeshes
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

F4?

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #66 on: December 22, 2009, 10:54:29 PM »
Dang, that looks ugly. I must say that's why I wear sunglasses. I should post up a picture of the pair that I had on when I fell on TaoPani.
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #67 on: December 23, 2009, 07:19:55 AM »
I forgot to add that Tricia is part of the FA team on Brown Rice... because she followed me on it with no falls. I couldn't believe it, Tonya did the route later and thought it had a little 5.8 on it. And Tricia can't even reach the holds. But she is so light that she was also able to use holds that I'd never even consider. She's a cool kid.

Ubergoober

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #68 on: December 23, 2009, 02:59:36 PM »
Go Tricia!

Heck, she's as probably as tall as me now!
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mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #69 on: December 29, 2009, 08:23:17 PM »
New or Newly Reported: near the top of the back side of the upper tier of the Balconies

There are a series of small mudlet pinnacles just south of the low point of the saddle between Crowley Towers and the highest summit of the Balconies formation.

Seen here:



I got on several but there are two that I thought worthwhile if one is in the vicinity. The view from the top of the Balconies is probably the best view in the Monument.

In the above pic, the left skyline shows two bumps/mudlets, from between these two climb the obvious and featured lines...



Balcony Bump? 5.3? (left northerly one shown above)
FA unknown

Balcony Balls? 5.3? (right southerly one shown above)
This one has bigger cobbles and is more hollow sounding, but seemed pretty stable.
FA unknown
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #70 on: January 02, 2010, 05:51:28 PM »
Thief. I cruised under these three years ago on a solo, wet day, while I was checking stuff out for the book. I'd meant to return to the arete in the right of your photo to do an FA with the girls. Maybe let Katie place a bolt. Alas, the FA is now taken forever. And, of course, as you point out, it may well have been "scrambled up" already.  If I remember, the shallow water streak/groove to that arete's right looked worthwhile too.

These two seem like legit routes. Should they be written up and added to the list? If you want I'll do so. Can you give some more detail?

EDIT: If I recall these aretes are about midway from the Towers to the top edge of the Balconies, maybe 300 yards south of the Towers? And not really visible from any distance due to intervening ridges. I don't think any sane approach could be made other than by turning off from the normal Crowley Towers approach to the right/north a few hundred yards before the Towers? (I say "sane" because on the day I was there I continued way down and around, eventually coming out on the Balconies Cliff Trail way north of the Balconies, but that would be a dumb way to approach these).

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #71 on: January 02, 2010, 09:22:06 PM »
They seemed pretty legit, especially the one on the right (So.) even if easy, and there is room for more lines in this vicinity. It's a really nice location.  I don't recall a groove, but I was taking the easiest line since some of the cobbles sounded hollow.

Definitely agree on the approach. Except if one was topping out on the Balconies and decided to 'summit' one could knock off a couple extra 'lines'.



On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

F4?

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #72 on: January 03, 2010, 08:21:10 AM »
Quote
Definitely agree on the approach. Except if one was topping out on the Balconies and decided to 'summit' one could knock off a couple extra 'lines'.
Top out on a Balconies route? You are on Crack. Lava Falls doesn't top out.
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #73 on: January 03, 2010, 09:12:59 AM »
Yeah, but if one wanted to, one could top out on any of several Balconies routes and then use Exit Route to top out ( a few 5.6 moves). This would put one within a few hundred yards of the routes Rob did/stole  ;D

EDIT: Wrong. Exit Route leaves one below a huge, upper tier of Balconies, the tier with no routes except on it's very far left (where If We Bolt it Lies). So there is one viable approach.

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #74 on: January 03, 2010, 09:10:03 PM »
probably not a likely approach from the front side and even if so, the objective would be the wall not the little pinnacles, so from a 'usually approached' probably only worth mentioning the one from Crowley.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #75 on: January 10, 2010, 10:05:28 PM »
Balcony Bumps Updated and consolidated (not including roped climbs finished today and mentioned only because they have good rock on the Second Bump):

First Bump
Arborist - 5.easy - Going south from the saddle between Crowley towers and the upper summit of the Balconies, ascend the first of three miniature conical pinnacles via a fallen dead tree. Be delicate on the tree as it may not last long. Descend by reversing the moves.  FA unknown, maybe munge 1/10/2010

Second Bump
North Arete - 5.3 - 25-35'? Starts just to climber's left of tree. Good rock under the lichen. Some pockets could protect the leader.  Descend the Fourth Class route. FA unknown, most likely munge 1/10/2010 (thick lichen, untouched found on this potential FA) Maybe call this Mumps?

Eastern Lodestone - 5.3 - 20-25'? Starts on the big lodestone, near the top move slightly left. Mostly good rock. FA unknown, maybe munge 1/10/2010, since no else would bother with an obscure alternate start. I have no life. Maybe call this Humps?

Balcony Bump - aka Fourth Class Descent Route - 4th class - 20'?  FA unknown - really good rock.

SW corner - 5.4 - Start just left of the Fourth Class route on good rock. The one pocket down low wouldn't protect the crux move going over the steeper top. FA unknown, most likely munge 1/10/2010 due to a large natural hand hold cobble that was en route that came off with barely a touch. Maybe call this Clumps?

Third Bump
Balcony Balls - 5.3 Bigger cobbles but more hollow sounding. On blunted North Arete, locatd directly opposite from The Fourth Class route on Balcony Bump.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #76 on: January 12, 2010, 10:12:04 AM »
OK, just added four routes in the Crowley Towers/Balconies Bumps area of the West Side (all four start with the number 709).

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #77 on: January 31, 2010, 11:05:39 PM »
Two or three Previously Unreported routes...

1. ???  25' ish 5.5 solo on south side of a pinnacle just south of the trail about 175 yards east of The Lump. FA unknown

here's a photo of the line...


the route is top left of this overview photo...


2. ??? 25' ish 5.4 solo on east side of a pinnacle just west of The Lump. FA unknown. The pinn is marked by a narrow jumble of rock nestled against the East face. Climb the ridge by gaining the extended part and hoping across to the main formation. On the main formation it is slightly pinker and denuded of black lichen by years of ascents. Above photo taken from atop this formation for reference.

3. ??? 25' ish 5.4 solo on east face of pinnacles just west of the The Lump. FA unknown, possibly Rob Behrens 1/31/2010. Climb the face 6-8' left of a left facing chimney formed by the above route's ridge. It ascends good knobs to a mossy step. downclimb the route or downclimb #2 above.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #78 on: February 01, 2010, 10:46:01 PM »
for what it's worth, there are a whole series of mini lumps along this ridge that are easy boulder problems or 4th class summits depending on how you define it that are less than 25'. They are both east and west of The Lump.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #79 on: March 08, 2010, 12:36:59 PM »
Added the superb routes of The Jungle Slab today. Enjoy repeating these! (Heavy, heavy sarcasm.)