Author Topic: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)  (Read 2841074 times)

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #80 on: March 21, 2010, 08:45:25 PM »
Modified the entry about Gavin's Tangent. Added two stars, where previously there were none. Changed the description regarding the protection placed under the roof (to "good" from "OK"). Changed the description of where the climb goes (changed slightly - it goes straight up to the roof, not up and left). Added an explanation about why these changes were made.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #81 on: March 21, 2010, 09:20:15 PM »
Made a few modifications to the Blackjack description today based on an ascent of the route. Changed the description of the gear leading up to the bolt to "some good gear," from "good gear," to make it clear that the pro leading up to that point is adequate, but not wonderful. Added the word "intimidating" to the description of the crux, which is quite steep. Left the grade (which the first ascent authors thought might be too conservative) since two of us agreed that, once it was passed, it seemed 5.9. Not a clean route, but worth doing.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #82 on: March 22, 2010, 07:11:32 AM »
Added the new route just established by Fabrizio and Josh: "The Royal Flush," on Casino Rock. Led this yesterday and really enjoyed it.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #83 on: April 14, 2010, 06:53:28 PM »
On April 14, 2010 I added Abuela Cochinita to the list of new routes.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #84 on: May 04, 2010, 09:27:53 AM »
Made some modifications to Flue Fire's description today, based on recent ascents. The only significant change was of the rating: to 5.11a, from 5.10d.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #85 on: May 04, 2010, 10:59:49 AM »
Added two newly established routes on The Hippopotamus: Hungry, Hungry Hippo and From Dawn to Tusk.

mmud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #86 on: May 06, 2010, 08:17:10 PM »
Very cool list, thanks for putting it together and keeping it current!

I'm heading out to Casino Rock this weekend and wondering if you could help me out with some info:

1. How high is it? (Will my 50m rope be sufficient for TR-ing?)
2. If I lead Drilling, will I be able to scramble over to set up the others on TR?
3. Bolts or rings on top?

Thanks,

~Dan

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #87 on: May 06, 2010, 09:14:27 PM »
1. The height is in the guidebook (topo, page 181). Look at route # 457 and you'll see its height and the approximate height of the rock itself.

2. Yes, although the "scramble" to get to the top of route # 455 is pretty much class four (read the intro to Casino Rock on page 180 and look at route # 459).

3. The topo tells you about the top anchors. The summit bolts shown in the topo have no chains and no rings.

Sorry, can't get more specific than that - gotta make sure you've got the book. If climbers don't buy it how am I ever going to clear out my garage? You do have it don't you?

MUCCI

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #88 on: May 06, 2010, 09:23:55 PM »
Mud-
#1 All of the routes at casino are longer than 100 ft.  

#2 I assume you meant lead "Climbing" instead of "Drilling", in which case there is no way to top rope any climb at casino rock with one rope.  You scramble off the backside of each route and walk down the right side of casino to return to the base.

3# There is a 2 bolt anchor at the top of "Crap Chute 5.9R".

Hope this helps, have fun out there and welcome to the mudpile!

Mucci

mynameismud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #89 on: May 07, 2010, 05:23:16 AM »
By Drilling I think he means Drilling in my Dreams 5.7.  "Drilling" is on Casino.

I think what he is asking is can they be top roped with a two 50 m ropes.  I might be wrong on this.

I think you might be able to TR a couple of them with two 50 m ropes but I am not sure since it has been a long time since I have been out there and I have not done the new routes. 

I know some of them cannot be TR'd with two 50 m ropes.  Casino is taller than it looks.
Here's to sweat in your eye

mmud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #90 on: May 07, 2010, 07:13:12 AM »
Thanks, Guys, for responding so swiftly. I only get up to Pinnacles every few years and since I'm currently a poor-out-of-work bum, I'm surviving on my old purple second edition by Rubine, which doesn't have the height. This information is very helpful; I'll bring two ropes. You were right: I'm leading the 7 to TR the rest if possible. I appreciate the help and the contact with who look like people who appreciate PNM like I do.

~Dan

Uncle Stinky

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #91 on: May 13, 2010, 10:51:07 PM »
No Country for Old Men, very chossy and dirty, nice views and an interesting ending.  5.7?  run-out or spicy until it cleans up.  Our first Pinns FA.   3X with the third bold being in not so great rock and a bit of a spinner.  No anchors yet, we were not sure of the best way to put them in and had to meet others.

This route is on the ridge formation between Chimney Seep and the Anvil on the south-west face.

FA Jeff and Steve Imai


Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #92 on: May 14, 2010, 12:43:01 PM »
OK, Jeff, see if I got the description right. I think it's good at least about where the route is located since Jim and I spent some time looking it over.

Nice name. So am I allowed to climb it (I'll be 50 this year).

Uncle Stinky

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #93 on: May 14, 2010, 03:54:58 PM »
Brad,
Sounds good- It seems the formation has no name so we thought about calling it Byzantium. in keeping with the name of the climb.  A couple more shots

Getting in the last bolt



First lead.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #94 on: May 14, 2010, 04:27:44 PM »
OK, Jeff, check it now?

Uncle Stinky

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #95 on: May 15, 2010, 08:36:01 AM »
Yea Brad that looks good to me. The climb is destined to be an obscurity,  chossy rock after a long approach.  I think it should be a requirement that any party climbs it has to have at least one person over 50. 

I am not sure of the best way to get there.  We have approached it three different ways. 

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #96 on: November 15, 2010, 07:06:48 AM »
Edited the entry for No Country for Old Men to reflect an ascent of the route. BTW, per the FA author's (tongue in cheek) request, I am 49 years old, and thus not yet "over 50," but Bob is 64 (?) and thus of "legal" age.

We approached as for Chimney Sweep (but cut right at the last minute instead of left), which involves very little brush. We descended by way of The Knee and Maniac's Delight, which was brushy. I'd take the longer walk in by way of Chimney Sweep.

Uncle Stinky

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #97 on: November 24, 2010, 08:34:41 AM »
You got us beat 104 vs. 113 years :D

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #98 on: December 14, 2010, 09:34:55 PM »
Added Keller Arete to the list tonight. Named in honor of one of the first ascentionists who placed his first bolt on his second first ascent (hand drilled, on lead, done with extreme enthusiasm).

Munge, I've been thinking about the rating. I really think those last moves were 5.8, not 5.7. I like to be conservative, but I think calling it 5.7 might cross the line into sandbagging. Your thoughts?

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #99 on: December 14, 2010, 10:11:20 PM »
Also added tonight: A Rock, A Hammer and a Black Eye. Alan thinks he's really funny, naming this route for the (ahem) mishap I had while drilling on the route to the right, Brown Rice and Boogers. Too bad about the no stars; this one looked really good, but turned out to be only OK.

I've still got to redpoint this. I placed the last two bolts on Sunday, leaving Alan fresh for what was (in my opinion) a brilliant redpoint. I followed but was so pumped from drilling that I hung on at least half the bolts. Alan's stance placement of the third bolt last season was also particularly notable. It was a tenuous stance that he was only able to maintain by bracing the hand holding the drill hard up against the side of a loadstone.