Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)

[mynameismud]

Maybe it was put there as a quicker way to get to the top versus having to hike around.  Kind of a permanent short cut.

Nothing there except the two bolts and the rope. No 'biners and the rope was tied to the second bolt (which is why I hypothesized a solo ascent - or why fix the rope to the bolt at all?).

[Brad Young]

I added a newly established route, 557.7 Stepping Stone 5.9 R

Thanks again Gavin and Alacia for a great day on Saturday. Naturally I called home late enough that Vicki learned that we hiked out by headlamp. My reputation with my wife was further nailed down (but, no, she wasn't surprised).

[Brad Young]

Maybe it was put there as a quicker way to get to the top versus having to hike around.  Kind of a permanent short cut.

Well, except that it was unattached at the top. The only thing keeping the rope in place was the fact that it was lassoed around a shallow, low angle bump of rock.

[mungeclimber]

lassoed around a shallow, low angle bump of rock.

and?


sounds like pro to me... at Pinns

[Brad Young]

and?


sounds like pro to me... at Pinns

No, no, no. Lassoed, shallow bumps of rock are only pro at Pinnacles if your name is Clint Cummins 

[Brad Young]

I added today six routes that were established last spring to the left of Tourist Trap. All six have route numbers that start with "13."

[Brad Young]

I also added West of the Sun and Hajime to the list.

[mungeclimber]

Battle Hamster!


hahahaha

[Brad Young]

Having read Atomizer's comment that the original (poorly placed) anchor for Straight Up has been removed, but that the two lead bolts are still in place, I modified the route rating and description to be consistent with what is there.

[mungeclimber]

Encouraging JC to post up by getting some details pasted up...

Tentative name for new line in the Pipsqueak Pinnacle area...

Little Scrapper - located 10' left of Little Pipper. no bolts no gear. FA via onsight solo

height? little less than Little Pipper

rating?

[JC w KC redux]

Encouraging JC to post up by getting some details pasted up...

Tentative name for new line in the Pipsqueak Pinnacle area...

Little Scrapper - located 10' left of Little Pipper. no bolts no gear. FA via onsight solo

height? little less than Little Pipper

rating?

I will have to go back out and climb it again along with your Little Pipper and then give it a rating.

[mungeclimber]

let's do Scragglepuss while we're there.

[JC w KC redux]

let's do Scragglepuss while we're there.

i was thinking about trying it the first time we went to Pipsqueak until i read Bob's review here
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Rock-Climbing-2259/2008/10/Fun-Pinnacles-Routes.htm
scroll all the way down and he says it's awful. it also didn't help that Pipsqueak's Reg Rte(5.4*) was only my 5th onsight lead, so i was a bit intimidated by any 5.7's at that point.
i checked the FA info after we were there last weekend and saw you and Brad established Scragglepuss - so i think i need to give it a shot with no preconceived notions.
i did notice that the first bolt is quite a bit lower than Rightfoot (i led RF last weekend) - tense getting to that sucker but a fun route! maybe Bob was just biased b/c RF was his FA
on that subject do you know if the Bazaar will take pro up high in the crack - no mention of it in the book.

[JC w KC redux]

398.1 Pipsqueak Pinnacle area...

Little Scrapper 5.3R

This 25 foot solo is located about 8 feet left of Little Pipper on the same formation.

No bolts, no gear. Start up the easy ramp to steeper climbing above.

FA via onsight solo - John Cook, Chris Bencomo 10-27-12

I'd like to add a caveat here that this route was a happy accident - I thought it was Little Pipper.
It would make a good warmup for doing that route, especially with regard to testing out the rock quality.

[mungeclimber]

While TR'ing on Simian this weekend, I remembered that there is a TR problem that goes straight up from the start of the 10c bolted lead. I had done it last season I think. It's 5.10ish. Kinda hard. Worth doing if you're there.

I'll add a better description later for you wild apes that must get your simian on.

edit - Calling it "Human, All Too Human" 5.10* TR for lack of any history on the problem.

[JC w KC redux]

While TR'ing on Simian this weekend, I remembered that there is a TR problem that goes straight up from the start of the 10c bolted lead. I had done it last season I think. It's 5.10ish. Kinda hard. Worth doing if you're there.

I'll add a better description later for you wild apes that must get your simian on.

sorry bro - i don't think that was a new line - from the topo it looks like you were on Little Big Dog Direct 5.11aR - it starts at the undercut and goes up to the bolt you had fixed as a directional...talk about a gnarly lead! sheeesh!!

[mungeclimber]

I wasn't referring to the one I did Sunday.  The line that goes straight up from the start of the 10c is in between Smiling Simian 5.8 and the leadable Little Big Dog 10c (after it leaves the start of the 10c - it shares the start. The 10c start is the easy side (left) of where I went up).

During that day I had forgetten where Windmills was. No wonder I thought it was hard, that tiny pocket move doesn't go like I had first tried it.  Windmills is slightly further climber's right. 

[JC w KC redux]

I wasn't referring to the one I did Sunday.  The line that goes straight up from the start of the 10c is in between Smiling Simian 5.8 and the leadable Little Big Dog 10c (after it leaves the start of the 10c - it shares the start. The 10c start is the easy side (left) of where I went up).

During that day I had forgetten where Windmills was. No wonder I thought it was hard, that tiny pocket move doesn't go like I had first tried it.  Windmills is slightly further climber's right. 

10-4 Big Dog!

[mungeclimber]

Mucci, did you report your route on that formation on the West Side that is near the picnic area?

[Brad Young]

I added the following three routes to the list tonight:

397.9  Little Scrapper  5.3 R

707.3  Manatee  5.3

709.5  Cover Girl  5.8 *

There are two more very new existing routes that are on my list, but my descriptions are still incomplete until I get out and climb them. I will add these two as soon as I am able.