Author Topic: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)  (Read 2942038 times)

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #160 on: January 10, 2013, 10:09:03 PM »
I added the following three routes to the list tonight:

397.9  Little Scrapper  5.3 R

707.3  Manatee  5.3

709.5  Cover Girl  5.8 *


thanks Brad.

Now I need to find a longer line somewhere and get some bolts in :)
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #161 on: January 14, 2013, 09:53:23 AM »
Brad confirmed Manatee yesterday and made some corrections to the route description.

thanks Brad!
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #162 on: January 15, 2013, 07:29:13 PM »
Gavin and Alacia and I added another lead bolt to Stepping Stone today and installed the second summit bolt and equalized chains. I modified the description accordingly.

I also soloed Little Scrapper. I modified the description a little and changed the rating to 5.4. I'm not so good at rating climbs in that range, but if Manatee is 5.3, Little Scrapper is 5.4 or 5.5. (John, would you review and approve the changes please?)

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #163 on: January 15, 2013, 09:13:41 PM »
I also soloed Little Scrapper. I modified the description a little and changed the rating to 5.4. John, would you review and approve the changes please?

Looks good. I agree that it is a bit easier than Little Pipper 5.5 so 5.4 works.
We'll see how long the holds last on either - provided they ever get repeated.
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #164 on: January 16, 2013, 08:20:08 PM »
I added a new Jim and Jon McConachie route to the list today:

273.2  Cheeso Pani 5.9 ***

This was a real treat to lead - excellent rock, good pro (at least after the first 15 feet) and cool moves (really exposed stemming and a short finishing hand crack that was truly fine). Gavin also thought it was excellent.

This was my 850th route at Pinnacles.

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #165 on: January 16, 2013, 08:55:56 PM »
dang!


closures be loomin, the productive be boomin!
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

F4?

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #166 on: January 16, 2013, 08:59:25 PM »
Mr Mud will catch up once he finishes his house.

I'll even give him a couple highlighters..
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mynameismud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #167 on: January 16, 2013, 09:35:53 PM »
I will never make 800
really just want to be able to climb 5.11 again
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #168 on: February 24, 2013, 08:32:00 PM »
I added route 352.9 today: Primrose Pinnacle.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #169 on: February 24, 2013, 09:32:28 PM »
I added route 352.9 today: Primrose Pinnacle.

I got dizzy reading the approach instructions!
I think you guys did this FA just to keep me going further and further out!!
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #170 on: February 24, 2013, 09:55:00 PM »
I got dizzy reading the approach instructions!
I think you guys did this FA just to keep me going further and further out!!

Nope, we were just looking around.

There is one slab out there in particular that looked intriguing from two hundred yards away. Up closer it looked like it would make a nice, 150 foot long 5.6 or so route (or two or three). Up really close it became apparent that the base of the slab is guarded by - no shit - at least a quarter acre of poison oak, right up to the base of the rock. No thanks.

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #171 on: February 24, 2013, 10:21:13 PM »
talk about a moat that works
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

waldo

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #172 on: February 24, 2013, 10:37:40 PM »
Cheeso Pani?


Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #173 on: February 25, 2013, 06:39:17 AM »
talk about a moat that works

Yeah, I don't mind trimming away a little P.O. But this was of blackberry patch proportions.

mynameismud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #174 on: February 25, 2013, 09:32:13 AM »
Dave and I hiked out there way back in the day and walked away for the same reason.  We found a dried up skeleton ( of a deer ).  Sadly we did not find that elusive 3 star 5.11 water streak.
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #175 on: April 14, 2013, 04:40:19 PM »
Today I discovered two new routes on the north side of the Third Sister. Just left of Second Sister NE Chimney route, below and right of the "meadow" on page 92.  I rope solo'd the one of the right (arête). 5.5ish. Quite good quality knobs and a worthy addition of a route for about 30-40' of climbing. It has 3 SS 3/8" bolts to protect the leader. There is no bolted anchor and no great gear placements to clean the route when done. As a result I used the tree. However, DO NOT USE THE TREE anymore. The erosion around the tree could be a problem. This climb NEEDS AN ANCHOR to rap from, or it should go up the arête to the top.

As I was climbing, the QOTSA song "Little Sister" came on, if this route doesn't already have a name  "Living life behind the shadows" would be quite perfect in my mind since I don't think anyone has posted up about these routes. I posted primarily so that we get the anchor situation squared away on the next ascent. Please let me know if you need a hand. If you don't use the name, I surely will. :)

The other route I carefully top roped to the left. It is either not finished, is an R rated route, gets dirty fast at the 1/2 height mark of the other line, or perhaps is a variant start to the arête. It has 2 bolts, and the bottom moves are fun, and slightly harder, perhaps 5.6.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #176 on: April 14, 2013, 05:33:30 PM »
Dude - when were you out there? We did Lost Sister to end the day.
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mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #177 on: April 16, 2013, 11:04:51 PM »
In the morning before anyone was on disco.

anyone know about these?
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Bruce Hildenbrand

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #178 on: April 17, 2013, 09:30:53 PM »
Today I discovered two new routes on the north side of the Third Sister. Just left of Second Sister NE Chimney route, below and right of the "meadow" on page 92.  I rope solo'd the one of the right (arête). 5.5ish. Quite good quality knobs and a worthy addition of a route for about 30-40' of climbing. It has 3 SS 3/8" bolts to protect the leader. There is no bolted anchor and no great gear placements to clean the route when done. As a result I used the tree. However, DO NOT USE THE TREE anymore. The erosion around the tree could be a problem. This climb NEEDS AN ANCHOR to rap from, or it should go up the arête to the top.

Munge,

Clint and I put up those two routes during a break in rebolting one day.  The right route is called 'Your Sister' and I believe Clint wanted to call the other route 'Twisted Sister.'  BTW, the route on the left is meant to join the right route at it's second bolt.

Interesting information about the tree at the top.  It seemed OK when we were there.  Hmm.  I will have to get back there and take a look.  The normal descent from that area is to go up and left 50 feet to a notch on the left and then down climb(5.0) as per Brad's guidebook.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #179 on: April 18, 2013, 05:35:49 AM »
Munge,

Clint and I put up those two routes during a break in rebolting one day.  The right route is called 'Your Sister' and I believe Clint wanted to call the other route 'Twisted Sister.'  BTW, the route on the left is meant to join the right route at it's second bolt.

Interesting information about the tree at the top.  It seemed OK when we were there.  Hmm.  I will have to get back there and take a look.  The normal descent from that area is to go up and left 50 feet to a notch on the left and then down climb(5.0) as per Brad's guidebook.

Bruce, the route name Twisted Sister got used two years ago for a new route on the right side of the west face of the First Sister (it's in the list of new routes, in that thread). And while there is no rule against using the same name for two different routes, it might be awkward to do so?

Any chance you know the ratings and the dates of the first ascents? Rob, you didn't post any thoughts about ratings either?