Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

why cross the vegetated area at all? Dragging a cord across the shrub, especially if people start to lower off it, doesn't seem ideal at all.

Munge,

it's a case of trying to solve two problems with one anchor.  There are more climbs in this area such as the Third SIster East Face, Sister Spire and the West Face of the Fourth Sister.  The north approach to all these climbs has a 5th class approach
which is a bit of a tricky down climb to reverse especially in bad weather.  By placing the anchors where I was suggesting this would create a rappel descent for both the routes below and the route above.  I wouldn't consider this as a 'lowering' anchor for the routes below.   The rock is pretty low angle in the upper section of the 'lower' climbs and I don't think it would be a good idea to create a 'lowering' anchor for those two, new climbs.

[mungeclimber]

I hear what you're saying. I think the multiple aspects is what we're all trying to wade thru.

Btw, I'm not suggesting that it must be designed for lowering, rather it will inevitably be used by gumbies as a lowering anchor if a station goes in somewhere in that slabby section.

Personally I would have liked to see the line go up that steep arête above the slabby section.

[JC w KC redux]

used by gumbies.
Personally I would have liked to see the line go up that steep arête above the slabby section.

Probably not much to worry about as the gumbies will likely never venture beyond the main face of First Sister.

You could always add that extension and call it Your Sister's Boyfriend!

[Brad Young]

I modified the description of route: 0.5 "Flake Don't Break" to include further information I gained when I led it yesterday. Thanks Gavin for an excellent last day of Pinns season.

I'll add the two new Third Sisters routes to the list soon too (I soloed these routes yesterday). I saw Clint today and so mentioned the possibility of adding an anchor and also asked him about finalizing a name. I agree that the pine is doomed if it is used much more as an end point (if anything the erosion below it looks more worrisome in real life than in John's photos). I also agree  that a two bolt anchor at about its height but off the its right - right where John proposed one in his photo - would work well. Clint seemed open to this. Bruce, I presume he'll discuss these issues with you at some point too?

[Brad Young]

I added the two new routes on the Third Sister's north face. These are routes 235.1 and 235.2.

Bruce, if you see this, would you read over what I wrote and lemme know what edits I should make.

[JC w KC redux]

I led it yesterday. Thanks Gavin for an excellent last day of Pinns season.

I saw Clint today. I also agree  that a two bolt anchor at about its height but off the its right - right where John proposed one in his photo - would work well. Clint seemed open to this. Bruce, I presume he'll discuss these issues with you at some point too?

So you mud masters snuck down to the Pinns yesterday and didn't tell me? I'm hurt!

I like the fact that you plugged my anchor suggestion.

I have a topo for those routes if you want it.

I think the 6 should be Your Sister's Boyfriend since it is a bit stiffer

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Brad Young wrote:

" I also agree  that a two bolt anchor at about its height but off the its right - right where John proposed one in his photo - would work well. Clint seemed open to this. Bruce, I presume he'll discuss these issues with you at some point too?"

I discussed this with Clint.  If we put an anchor in, it should probably go up high, where the arete steepens and continues to the top of the Third Sister.  If we put it down low, as in John's photo, it would make a pretty bad toprope and rappel if people decide to use it as such.  We will go up there in the fall and scout things out.

[JC w KC redux]

Brad Young wrote:

" I also agree  that a two bolt anchor at about its height but off the its right - right where John proposed one in his photo - would work well. Clint seemed open to this. Bruce, I presume he'll discuss these issues with you at some point too?"

I discussed this with Clint.  If we put an anchor in, it should probably go up high, where the arete steepens and continues to the top of the Third Sister.  If we put it down low, as in John's photo, it would make a pretty bad toprope and rappel if people decide to use it as such.  We will go up there in the fall and scout things out.

Sounds like a good idea for the anchor Bruce. This may be of some use during the interim. I'm inclined not to tell anyone about these routes until the anchor is in since they will undoubtedly use the tree even though body position could be used from the flat spot of rock about even with the tree (where I proposed an anchor). I wasn't thinking in terms of a problem with toproping or rapping from there since I wouldn't do that - already being familiar with the other ways down.

[mungeclimber]

I'm inclined not to tell anyone about these routes

lol

I needed a good smile today. Thx for the irony!

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Brad,

on the topo, I would move the routes over to the right to the toe of the buttress as that's where the first route starts.  Also, I would remove one of the bolts on route 235 as I removed one (rawl split shaft, no hanger) when I rebolted that route.

Bruce

ps - thanks for all the feedback on where to put the anchor for these two new routes.  Clint and I will get up there and get 'er done this fall.

[JC w KC redux]

Brad,

on the topo, I would move the routes over to the right to the toe of the buttress as that's where the first route starts.  Also, I would remove one of the bolts on route 235 as I removed one (rawl split shaft, no hanger) when I rebolted that route.

Bruce

ps - thanks for all the feedback on where to put the anchor for these two new routes.  Clint and I will get up there and get 'er done this fall.

Bruce - I did that topo just for fun/out of boredom - I can remove it if you like - I'm sure if Brad does one he'll start from scratch. As far as the location of the lines, I was going by their proximity to that first water streak. Maybe there is more space between the two lines. I did notice the missing bolt when I led 235 - the same day I led both of your routes.

[JC w KC redux]

P.S. Brad is at the Leap until Friday

[mynameismud]

not bad...
Looks like we have a new author for the 2027 edition.

Bruce - I did that topo just for fun/out of boredom - I can remove it if you like - I'm sure if Brad does one he'll start from scratch. As far as the location of the lines, I was going by their proximity to that first water streak. Maybe there is more space between the two lines. I did notice the missing bolt when I led 235 - the same day I led both of your routes.

[F4?]

when is the new guide coming out?

[JC w KC redux]

579.5 What I've Been Missing Out On 5.7

Just wanted to share this photo I took and added the path to yesterday. The view is from the summit of Papa Bear.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Anchors are in on the new routes on the shoulder of the third sister.  My first choice for a location was out due to bad rock, but plan B turned out to be pretty darn good as well.  Enjoy!

[JC w KC redux]

Anchors are in on the new routes on the shoulder of the third sister.  My first choice for a location was out due to bad rock, but plan B turned out to be pretty darn good as well.  Enjoy!

thanks Bruce! we heard you were out there. I still have a bunch of onsights to do out there and we have some newbies that would enjoy leading the new routes - and now I feel like I can spread the word with the new anchor

[Brad Young]

Bruce, I changed the route description in the first post on this thread. I was also reminded that the name Twisted Sister is a duplicate. Did you talk to Clint about that yet? I'll leave it as is (either permanently, or temporarily, as you wish).

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

It's kind of funny, Clint and I have put up a lot of routes in the Pinns and Tuolumne and we never seem to get around to naming them until somebody asks us what they are called.   I will ask Clint what he wants to call the other route.

[JC w KC redux]

It's kind of funny, Clint and I have put up a lot of routes in the Pinns and Tuolumne and we never seem to get around to naming them until somebody asks us what they are called.   I will ask Clint what he wants to call the other route.

I still vote for my previous suggestion - I think the 6 should be Your Sister's Boyfriend since it is a bit stiffer