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Author Topic: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)  (Read 2941940 times)

Bruce Hildenbrand

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #220 on: October 30, 2013, 07:32:19 PM »
Just got an E-mail from Clint.  He is proposing the name "Kid Sister."
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #221 on: November 19, 2013, 07:30:06 PM »
I added route 708.5 "S Curve" to the list today.

John, Kathy and Bob, is the description OK?
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #222 on: November 19, 2013, 10:55:04 PM »
Quote from: Brad Young on November 19, 2013, 07:30:06 PM
I added route 708.5 "S Curve" to the list today.

John, Kathy and Bob, is the description OK?

I like it.
Did we want to mention the belay bolt on the shoulder?
Biggest gear we used in the crack was a #1 BD (1 1/2") unless you count the #3 used for the belay anchor before Bob finished his work.
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #223 on: November 20, 2013, 06:27:44 AM »
Quote from: JC w KC redux on November 19, 2013, 10:55:04 PM
I like it.
Did we want to mention the belay bolt on the shoulder?
Biggest gear we used in the crack was a #1 BD (1 1/2") unless you count the #3 used for the belay anchor before Bob finished his work.

OK, I changed it a bit based on your suggestions. Thanks.
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #224 on: November 20, 2013, 09:12:03 AM »
Quote from: Brad Young on November 20, 2013, 06:27:44 AM
OK, I changed it a bit based on your suggestions. Thanks.

Looks good :)
Time to get a bolt kit!
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Atomizer

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #225 on: November 20, 2013, 04:07:39 PM »
Quote
Time to get a bolt kit!

I will loan you the Loveline drill if you need it.
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Atomizer

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #226 on: December 15, 2013, 10:49:53 AM »
On Friday I spotted an unreported route near the condor gulch trail. It's on the most appealing slab to the left of the waterfall lookout railing. The bolts where put in by Justin Vitcov, but I did the FFA in 1996... Its been a while but I think it's a higher level 5.10. It's a little weird because you have to rap in from above to climb it, as it starts on a ledge 50 feet above the ground. A direct start is possible but it was abandoned after birds were found nesting in that region. There are no birds now.  I'm going to say the route is called "Mud Wankers".  The direct is an open project.

It goes up the most prominent slab in this image. It's taller than it looks. I think it has close to 15 bolts.
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mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #227 on: December 15, 2013, 11:12:02 AM »
1996!

I'm surprised no one has seen it?
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Atomizer

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #228 on: December 15, 2013, 12:06:22 PM »
I thought that Sharma went up and stole the hangers, but when I passed by on Friday Morning I could see the bolts shining in the early light. Yup, It's been in plain view for years... awaiting a second ascent.
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F4?

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #229 on: December 15, 2013, 12:25:12 PM »
Squiddo and I had been looking for a route below Condor...maybe that was it?
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #230 on: December 15, 2013, 08:34:20 PM »
From what I'm seeing in the photo, I think you're talking about route 452, Don Genaro Slab.
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Atomizer

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #231 on: December 15, 2013, 09:19:38 PM »
That's the one, but its called "Mud Wankers" and when I did the route I didn't start from the ground.
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mynameismud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #232 on: December 16, 2013, 05:45:06 AM »
lol
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #233 on: December 16, 2013, 09:41:49 PM »
I added route number 824.1: Are You Inexperienced  5.7 to the list today.

It took some work (and great, great support by the site hosts, thank you), to post this one because the single post reached it's hard maximum number of characters. Mudworm created what I think is an elegant solution - simply continue posting in a subsequent post, which she created for me.

I hope it looks OK.
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mudworm

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #234 on: December 16, 2013, 10:12:09 PM »
Quote from: Brad Young on December 16, 2013, 09:41:49 PM
I hope it looks OK.
It looks wonderful, Brad!
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #235 on: December 28, 2013, 06:49:32 PM »
I added two more routes to the list today.

579.1  High Plains Drifter, and

578.9  Feeling Lucky Punk.

Aaron and Jon will have to look over my descriptions to see if they agree with them.

Although we didn't think either route was star worthy, each was worth doing. High Plains Drifter is actually a nice compliment to the regular route on The Lump. We also admired the stance bolting on High Plains Drifter - Aaron in particular, nice job job on that first bolt (you put that one in if I got the details correct). It would have been easy to have drilled from the top of the flake, but moving past that little bit of spice to the stance you used makes the protection  sooo much better once a climber is above that bolt.

Also of note, although Tricia has "led" class three and four routes at Pinnacles, she hadn't led anything that was fifth class - until today. She led Bynum Spire Regular Route (5.2), handling the significant runout to the first bolt calmly and smoothly.
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #236 on: December 28, 2013, 08:00:46 PM »
JC making the first few moves on High Peaks Drifter 5.8









and Tricia making some nice moves on Bynums :)
Her first 5th class lead ever!
 




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mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #237 on: December 28, 2013, 09:13:14 PM »
tricia is leading now?

i'm gone for a couple of days and...
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waldo

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #238 on: December 28, 2013, 09:40:02 PM »
Great work, Tricia!
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mynameismud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #239 on: December 29, 2013, 09:45:20 AM »
Congrats Tricia
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