Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

I looked at the topo and then considered the number you gave the route. It must be a leftward traverse.

Yup!  Traverse left.

Bruce

[Brad Young]

Wow! I knew that Richard Hechtel climbed a quite a bit at Pinnacles but was not aware that he was on any FA's.  I am sure his daughter Sibylle would love to hear about this climb. 

Nelkins, it sounds like you've also been around Pinns climbing for a long time?

[NOAL]

No, not really that long. I've been climbing there more and more the last couple of years.  In fact, Richard's daughter Sibylle was key in my new found interest in the Pinnacles.  Last spring we spent about 4 or 5 consecutive weekends climbing there prior to Richard's wife Lisa's passing.


It was a touching experience climbing some of the climbs that Richard may have climbed with friends with Sibylle. We took quite a few photos of her standing on the same Pinnacles that her father had photos of himself standing on in his  collection. 

Besides the nostalgia factor we took all of the Pinnacles trips because it was the shortest drive from Redwood City with the most amount of routes.  It kind of dawned on me that if you live in the Bay Area Pinnacles is your home crag and the place to go if you want to take a day trip. 

The funny thing is I rarely see or meet other climbers there. Except last year I met some guy with an orange shirt in the High Peaks.  I think I saw you and some other folks last spring walk past the reservoir on the way to put some 5.6 by the Hand.  You might have a photo of me climbing Coyote Ugly.  I was wearing native american printed fleece.

-Noal

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

In an attempt at full disclosure, we all thought we were on Piece of Ewe when we did our route.  Someone else led the second pitch(and traversed too low, missing the belay bolt on PoE) and setup the poor belay in the crack.  I wasn't concerned about the poor belay because the route was only rated 5.7 and Chuck Richards' guide stressed the fact that a good bolt protected the crux.

So, when I got to the crux of the crack/groove and realized there was no pro, the belay was shite and I was committed it was a pretty heady moment.  Obviously, I am here to tell the tale, but anyone attempting the route should be forewarned that failure at the crux could have very disastrous consequences for all in the climbing party.  Maybe modern gear will allow for some sort of protection.

Those of you who put 2 and 2 together probably figured out that the reason this route when unreported for 35+ years is that I though we were on PoE.  When we recently rebolted that route the off-route mistake became clear.

[NOAL]

That's a good story!  Earlier today when I saw the rating it took a little while for the XX to click. 

[clink]

Nelkins,

There is an old Pinns legend of "a guy with an orange shirt"

It has to do with hidden treasure, a bandit and a fortune teller.
When time allows I will post up what I have heard told.

Btw I have seen him too.

[Brad Young]

Nelkins,

There is an old Pinns legend of "a guy with an orange shirt"

Shit, Jon, you omitted the crucial words. It's: "an old, feeble guy with an orange shirt..."

Yes, he's quite the legend. I think he's got a sidekick too, some guy who tries to wear an orange jacko'lantern shirt that's falling apart.

[mungeclimber]

I think there is more than one orange shirt old guy hiding in the rocks 'round these parts.


skeeery!

[Brad Young]

I think there is more than one orange shirt old guy hiding in the rocks 'round these parts.


skeeery!

You know, you're right.

There's J.C., with his very bright and very intact orange shirts. And then there is me with the faded "jack'o'lantern" orange shirt that has wear marks and gaps in it.

Yep, I am the holy one   

[Brad Young]

I added route number 486.5  Forgettable Ewe 5.5 to the list today.

Bruce, since your description of route number 487.5 isn't quite as clear (which is understandable since you did the FA almost 40 years ago), I'll hold off on adding that until I climb it (if that is OK with you).

[F4?]

So it is true, there is a treasure buried in the Monument, I mean Park.

$10 has it under the Monolith.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

I added route number 486.5  Forgettable Ewe 5.5 to the list today.

Bruce, since your description of route number 487.5 isn't quite as clear (which is understandable since you did the FA almost 40 years ago), I'll hold off on adding that until I climb it (if that is OK with you).

Having just been there a couple of days ago, I am pretty sure about the actual route description.  I just updated my original route description to be a bit more specific. What is not clear is a consensus grade for the route and whether modern climbing protection will reduce the seriousness of the route.  I believe raptor closures go into effect next Tuesday.

[mynameismud]

One more for Brad to hold him over the winter.  I think we can keep this up for several years.

[Brad Young]

...What is not clear is a consensus grade for the route and whether modern climbing protection will reduce the seriousness of the route.

I agree. That's why I'd like to hold off on adding this one to the list until after we've got more of a consensus (which, with the closures,  will likely be some time after next August).

[Brad Young]

One more for Brad to hold him over the winter.  I think we can keep this up for several years.

Yep, Bruce's new and newly reported routes do kinda put a crimp on my big plan to have done every climb in the Park that is easier than 5.10.

However, if I can get the two remaining scary climbs done, and the little one Rob and Josh put up by the reservoir, then an early season effort (September or October) might get me there.

And one point I'd like to make: "keeping it up for years," that is, putting up new routes just so I'm not at that goal, is all fun and games, as long as people don't start putting up crap routes just to mess with me. I don't mind being messed with that way, but I'd hate to see crap routes put up just to "be routes;" climbing in the Park deserves better than that.

[mynameismud]

nah, we will put up good route.  It's just that we will not report them until after MLK.  Just messing with you a bit Brad.  I found it pretty funny that Bruce reported his route after the joking around in the other thread.  The timing was perfect.  Although I owe you one since you helped put  up that 5.11 right after I had done all the 5.11 pitches in the Pins.

[F4?]

Mr Mud, what about that route you and I put up back in 07?

[clink]

New route "Where's Waldo" on the north facing wall under Frothy Flake.
 Pitch 1, 5.9+, 80'? past 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 2, 5.9d, 40+' past 2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor in meadow in the sky.  gear gold & blue Camelots, med. stoppers. may also sling two excellent horns. As always attentive belaying needed.
2nd bolt on the second pitch was added subsequent to the ascent. Aaron is a mucho bad hombre for finishing the pitch without it. bolts fs. Aaron McDonald, Levi Goldman, Jon Cochran
Ok Brad, it may be 10a, but you guys decide. I want free beer.

[mungeclimber]

nice! congrats guys!  full pics layout?






Brad, question on Inn Crowd. What does this mean "this second rappel requires a 70 meter rope"?  Which comes right after indicating the rap length?

[Aaron McDonald]

New route "Where's Waldo" on the north facing wall under Frothy Flake.
 Pitch 1, 5.9+, 80'? past 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 2, 5.9d, 40+' past 2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor in meadow in the sky.  gear gold & blue Camelots, med. stoppers. may also sling two excellent horns. As always attentive belaying needed.
2nd bolt on the second pitch was added subsequent to the ascent. Aaron is a mucho bad hombre for finishing the pitch without it. bolts fs. Aaron McDonald, Levi Goldman, Jon Cochran
Ok Brad, it may be 10a, but you guys decide. I want free beer.

Don't forget the 2.5 Lowe Tricam behind the pillar. That is a key piece of gear that I highly recommend.

***Edit  you need a #2 Lowe Tricam