Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)

[waldo]

Great work, Clink and Aaron!  Waldo wasn't where he wanted to be.

[Brad Young]

Brad, question on Inn Crowd. What does this mean "this second rappel requires a 70 meter rope"?  Which comes right after indicating the rap length?

That's the end of a sentence that starts with the words: "Note, while this route can be rappelled with one rope..."

[JC w KC redux]

Brad, question on Inn Crowd. What does this mean "this second rappel requires a 70 meter rope"?  Which comes right after indicating the rap length?

Maybe we should clearly state in a separate sentence that the route requires a 70m rope so some GUMBY doesn't rap off p1 on a 60 and go off the end of their rope the last 20 feet or get stuck and need to be rescued.

THE ROUTE REQUIRES A 70M ROPE.

The alternative if you don't have a 70m rope is to climb above the Inn Crowd anchor on to the ramp for Desperate Abandon and 4th class down the ramp(s) to the ground - DEFINITELY NOT for beginners. 

[Brad Young]

Maybe we should clearly state in a separate sentence that the route requires a 70m rope so some GUMBY doesn't rap off p1 on a 60 and go off the end of their rope the last 20 feet or get stuck and need to be rescued.

THE ROUTE REQUIRES A 70M ROPE.

The alternative if you don't have a 70m rope is to climb above the Inn Crowd anchor on to the ramp for Desperate Abandon and 4th class down the ramp(s) to the ground - DEFINITELY NOT for beginners. 

No, I think the warning, with all the words together in one sentence is OK as is. Peter and Mikka read that sentence and they understood it perfectly well. So they brought two 60 meter ropes and were fine (and you are right of course: it can also be done with one 60 and a class four off, down the ramp).

[mynameismud]

beer is in order.  If I ever get down there I will stash one for you.  If your up in the Bay Area we could meet at Saint John's or something.

[clink]

Looking forward to that beer, Mr Mud.

[mudworm]

If you up in the Bay Area we could meet at Saint John's or something.

Or...Felafel STOP has yummy felafels.

[Brad Young]

With Mudworm's help I added links to a topo for The Inn Crowd and The Brosseau Finish (it is hand-draw and not yet "cleaned").

The topo is likely overkill, since the photo-topo seems to have gotten people to the route easily enough. But I figured that I might as well post it since I drew it (I drew it while waiting for other people to drill bolts - might as well pass that time doing something useful).

[JC w KC redux]

With Mudworm's help I added links to a topo for The Inn Crowd and The Brosseau Finish (it is hand-draw and not yet "cleaned").

The topo is likely overkill, since the photo-topo seems to have gotten people to the route easily enough. But I figured that I might as well post it since I drew it (I drew it while waiting for other people to drill bolts - might as well pass that time doing something useful).

I think the topo is a nice touch. Did you want to show the 3rd bolt at TIC p2 or the belay bolt on DA?

[squiddo]

New route "Where's Waldo" on the north facing wall under Frothy Flake.
 Pitch 1, 5.9+, 80'? past 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 2, 5.9d, 40+' past 2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor in meadow in the sky.  gear gold & blue Camelots, med. stoppers. may also sling two excellent horns. As always attentive belaying needed.
2nd bolt on the second pitch was added subsequent to the ascent. Aaron is a mucho bad hombre for finishing the pitch without it. bolts fs. Aaron McDonald, Levi Goldman, Jon Cochran
Ok Brad, it may be 10a, but you guys decide. I want free beer.

Nice work and add to the list of "must do's"

[squiddo]

I think the topo is a nice touch. Did you want to show the 3rd bolt at TIC p2 or the belay bolt on DA?

BTW- that third bolt was truly a convenience:-) It also seemed solid so I assume you and/or Brad fixed it.

[Brad Young]

BTW- that third bolt was truly a convenience:-) It also seemed solid so I assume you and/or Brad fixed it.

No we did nothing to "fix" the first-placed/lowest bolt at the second belay. It went in OK and tightened down well. Overall, after it was placed it felt fine. But I knew that the hole wasn't up to my standards as a belay bolt; I didn't like it. Maybe I was being too cautious, but I put in two bolts that I was definitely comfortable with instead.

And J.C., yes, I probably should add that Desperate Abandon belay bolt to the topo, it would fit. Originally I didn't put it there because it didn't seem to fit in it's proper place (a common problem in depicting a three dimensional area in a two dimensional drawing). But in looking at it again, I disagree with myself - it would likely fit. Putting a third bolt on the second pitch belay would make it crowded, but is doable too. If I ever finalize and clean up the topo (unlikely but possible) I will make those changes.

[clink]

I confess, to having to ask my wife what a felafel is, even my spell check doesn't recognize it. Sounds good.

[squiddo]

I confess, to having to ask my wife what a felafel is, even my spell check doesn't recognize it. Sounds good.

HA HA- falafel and kabob- shoreline at 101. Thank me later

[F4?]

And who is spelling challenged??

New route "Where's Waldo" on the north facing wall under Frothy Flake.
 Pitch 1, 5.9+, 80'? past 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 2, 5.9d, 40+' past 2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor in meadow in the sky.  gear gold & blue Camelots, med. stoppers. may also sling two excellent horns. As always attentive belaying needed.
2nd bolt on the second pitch was added subsequent to the ascent. Aaron is a mucho bad hombre for finishing the pitch without it. bolts fs. Aaron McDonald, Levi Goldman, Jon Cochran
Ok Brad, it may be 10a, but you guys decide. I want free beer.

Given Brad's reach, 5.9d sounds good.

[mynameismud]

I find it just a bit amusing that the Dairy Queen went out of business but the Vegan Falafel place in the same parking lot has a constant line.

[squiddo]

I find it just a bit amusing that the Dairy Queen went out of business but the Vegan Falafel place in the same parking lot has a constant line.

Sorry I nodded off at Vegan j/k that place is good but they need some spicy chili sauce

[Brad Young]

And who is spelling challenged??

Factor, we love you. Really. But you should never, never, ever accuse anyone else of being spelling challenged. People would have to try (hard) to do what you do with words.

(I hope that is a satisfactory answer to your question?)

[Brad Young]

And Jon and Aaron: between your new route and the two new routes on Goat Rock (all on cool north faces!!) I'm definitely planning on an earlier start to next season than "normal."

Not that this season is over mind you; lots to do yet, clear up into April.

Well with a little break from the Pinns here coming up first. I gotta leave at 5:30 a.m. tomorrow morning for my first 2014 week in Joshua Tree (14 years running I've had a week down there in January with Bill). It's not Pinnacles, but it'll have to do for the next 8 days 

[F4?]

Damn! I can't catch a break!