Author Topic: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)  (Read 2940325 times)

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #360 on: April 21, 2014, 08:19:16 PM »
Today I edited route 203.62, Topsy Turvy to reflect our fun with it on April 19, 2014 (including Adam's weird, but free toprope ascent).

I also added route 89.1, Jury Duty to the list.

mynameismud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #361 on: April 22, 2014, 08:48:37 PM »
Mug Shot 5.7  TR uphill from The Toe.  Left Formation.  Start off of platform in notch, move up and right on small ledges then move left toward buttress to finish.  Avoid PO at start.
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #362 on: April 25, 2014, 06:35:58 AM »
Adam and I recently soloed The South Watchman during the MoM weekend.
Adam took a different route to the summit than the standard route.

South Watchman - Watch Those Jams 5.8
Start as for the South Watchman but when you get to the shoulder, move west and climb a short, rotten hand crack on the north face to the summit. Gear to two inches. FA solo Adam Long 4-19-14.



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Atomizer

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #363 on: April 25, 2014, 08:32:13 AM »
South Watchman - The Watchman's Rattle 5.8

If that's an FA shouldn't I get to name it?

"Watch Those Jams"

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #364 on: April 25, 2014, 08:35:55 AM »
If that's an FA shouldn't I get to name it?

"Watch Those Jams"

Dunn :)
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clink

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #365 on: April 27, 2014, 01:45:59 PM »
Quote
If that's an FA shouldn't I get to name it?

Not necessarily, I think the name should be "Adam's Pacifier" after hearing how you latched on to it.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

clink

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #366 on: April 27, 2014, 01:54:19 PM »
BTW quit putting up routes everyone. I got a cramp in my drill hand holding up this obscenely heavy Pinns guide to look up the Heretic and Condor gulch area. That or 3 separate volumes next guidebook.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Atomizer

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #367 on: April 27, 2014, 03:59:07 PM »
BTW quit putting up routes everyone. I got a cramp in my drill hand holding up this obscenely heavy Pinns guide to look up the Heretic and Condor gulch area. That or 3 separate volumes next guidebook.

Look who's talking... Are you going to be part of the problem or part of the solution?

F4?

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #368 on: April 27, 2014, 04:05:12 PM »
Quote
Look who's talking... Are you going to be part of the problem or part of the solution?
The problem.

The next guide will need to be in 3 separate parts.
I'm not worthy.

beanolar

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #369 on: April 27, 2014, 06:46:22 PM »
5.7 CHICKEN SH*T JUG HAUL

Climb the obvious line of chicken sh*t jugs just to the left of Kid Sister. You can TR it from the wonderful anchor above your/kid sister. Kristin (Kansas) will bolt it, someday, once she can lead 5.7.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #370 on: April 27, 2014, 08:03:43 PM »
5.7 CHICKEN SH*T JUG HAUL

Climb the obvious line of chicken sh*t jugs just to the left of Kid Sister. You can TR it from the wonderful anchor above your/kid sister. Kristin (Kansas) will bolt it, someday, once she can lead 5.7.

Nope, but nice try. One could toprope four "lines" off those bolts. I, for one, can't go for it as a "route."

Remember, we invited you (cordially) to come over and work for it by pounding on a drill. On lead, working your ass off. Swearing artfully and enthusiastically (Kristen is pretty moth$%r  f&#$iing impressive that way - I think she can actually swear with the best of us) . Then you get naming rights. The offer still stands too.

And Clink, on the same subject, Mud is calling a 5.7 toprope-only effort a route. Is it? (Invite here to rant and rave about whether topropes constitute "routes".)

Mud, I assume we can go out and make Mug Shot a real route?

Still, routes or not, both "Mug Shot," and "Chicken Shit Jug Haul" are good names. They've got to be used for "real" climbs.

clink

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #371 on: April 27, 2014, 08:40:39 PM »
No
Never
Impossible
Unlikely
Who Are You Kidding
Follow The Money

The ancient Egyptians were asked the same question,

                                                          NO
                                                        NONO
                                                      NONONO
                                                   NONONONO
                                                 NONONONONO
                                               NONONONONONO
Causing trouble when not climbing.

mynameismud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #372 on: April 27, 2014, 08:50:50 PM »
I think JC already has dibs on the drilling
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #373 on: April 27, 2014, 09:44:05 PM »
Nope, but nice try. One could toprope four "lines" off those bolts. I, for one, can't go for it as a "route."

Remember, we invited you (cordially) to come over and work for it by pounding on a drill. On lead, working your ass off. Swearing artfully and enthusiastically (Kristen is pretty moth$%r  f&#$iing impressive that way - I think she can actually swear with the best of us) . Then you get naming rights. The offer still stands too.

And Clink, on the same subject, Mud is calling a 5.7 toprope-only effort a route. Is it? (Invite here to rant and rave about whether topropes constitute "routes".)

Mud, I assume we can go out and make Mug Shot a real route?

Still, routes or not, both "Mug Shot," and "Chicken Shit Jug Haul" are good names. They've got to be used for "real" climbs.


Hope this is all insider jokes.

Top ropes are real routes. Just because some author's don't like them doesn't mean they don't exist or haven't been done.

If top ropes were giving primacy most of the bolt issues we deal with today wouldn't carry water. We'll never go back to that. Steel is here. Steel is real.

carry on
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

clink

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #374 on: April 27, 2014, 10:09:19 PM »
Quote
primacy

Top roping is practice, practice makes perfect, perfect is climbing the damn thing on lead.
In toproping the rope has to go from the top down. Huh?
Causing trouble when not climbing.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #375 on: April 28, 2014, 06:11:42 AM »

Top ropes are real routes.

Top ropes are not routes. If it doesn't have bolts and won't take gear then it is a free solo - and if it has been climbed that way ground up, onsight - then it's a route.

Throw a rope down from the top and it is "game over".
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mynameismud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #376 on: April 28, 2014, 06:38:12 AM »
all jest aside.  TR's are routes.  There are already quite a few in the guide.  I have no problem going out and putting up a bunch of solo's and leaving them that way if that is the game people want to play.

TR's are actually much cleaner and in some ways a more pure form of climbing.
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #377 on: April 28, 2014, 06:54:58 AM »
Top ropes are not routes. If it doesn't have bolts and won't take gear then it is a free solo - and if it has been climbed that way ground up, onsight - then it's a route.

Throw a rope down from the top and it is "game over".

Although I agree with most of what you and Clink are saying, I think that you're being a little too extreme. There's a long history of some toprope-only routes being valid. Take, as just one example, the well known Big Moe in Joshua Tree. In Pinns, I think Lounge Lizard Arete is valid - bolting it would be a total squeeze job, and yet the moves are 90% unique from either of the routes to its sides (they only join at the top).

It's a balancing act though. I once had a first ascentionist up here hand me a topo that showed three bolted face leads, and something like seven other "toprope routes" from the same two top anchors. This on a face where one could climb almost anywhere. So where is the limit? Is it two TR routes on a face for every lead is enough? Or three. Or none?

Munge and I had this talk about Pinns and about up here. I think we came to agree that it can only be judged on a route by route basis. Naturally he didn't agree with all of my judgment calls and I didn't agree with all of his either.

In the present case I don't think the proposed "Chicken Shit Jug Haul" is adequately different, or far enough away from the lead climbs that already exist on that face to be a separate route. Mug Shot is a different  story - it's all alone and it was validly climbed (although on toprope). For these reasons, I think it's a route.

I think the best/ultimate solution with Mug Shot though is for it to be made into a lead (and by Dennis's sense of style, probably by someone other than the one's who toproped it - the toproping was a rehearsal to him, and thus a taint if the same climbers were to now do the first lead). And it sounds like he's OK with that being done.

mynameismud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #378 on: April 28, 2014, 07:17:37 AM »
I agree it is a judgement call.  I do know of one area where  a half dozen tr were listed for one anchor which is nuts.  I have no problem with someone bolting mug shot.  I cannot realistically drill at the moment.
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beanolar

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #379 on: April 28, 2014, 08:49:37 AM »
Hey hey toproping is real. I just did it last weekend!
It was grand. Not a worry in my mind. I was free to make wildly aggressive moves, without worrying about falling inbetween the first and second bolts.