Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)

[F4?]

Well if a route is a route, I want my Eastside upper parking lot bathroom outside traverse in the next guide.

My hands and feet tough real rocks. It has a start and a finish.


Now the great thing about TRing is you can scope out the clipping stances.

Then come back in 3months and add some bolts.

Then add a little pink circle to the bottom of the route.

[clink]

Then add a little pink circle to the bottom of the route.

What does this mean?

[Uncle Stinky]

Less talk more routes.   

[F4?]

well there's Red for the Red Point, but you guys are soft so Pink is a better color.

Maybe better would be name plates glued to the base.

[clink]

well there's Red for the Red Point, but you guys are soft so Pink is a better color.

Maybe better would be name plates glued to the base.

I could do the first ascent "in cowboy boots" of established routes, F4 could do "glass slipper"
pink points. Atomizer "fishnet"....freesolos

[beanolar]

I'm so confused. Are we following rules? or breaking them?

Is it normal to cross dress when you climb?

I mean, live and let live.

Just let me know if you find a good spot for us to set up CHICKENSHITJUGHAUL. 

[mungeclimber]

This thread needs an enema.

[squiddo]

This thread needs an enema.

 

[clink]

If top ropes were giving primacy most of the bolt issues we deal with today wouldn't carry water. We'll never go back to that. Steel is here. Steel is real.

Munge, please expound, I don't understand what you are saying.

If "leave no trace" is part of the reason to designate a FA to a TR ascent then documenting them and giving primacy to the TR could be the green thing to do. That was the idea behind stance only free ascents. It is very limiting to the proliferation of routes and demands an extreme price in time and effort to practice. On Romper Room, one bolt took a substantial part of two trips to place. If stance placements had ratings a 5.9 might require a 5.11 effort for placing a particular bolt.
Then there were the multitude of of steep, and "better quality" gymnastically challenging routes established ground up. Should these have been left top ropes? A very small number of Pinnacles climber thought so.
Instead of rap bolting these steep climbs, climbers employed an A3-A4 effort to place a protection bolt, by hanging on a hook on questionable rock. These practices and techniques cemented a fierce ground up ethic for these new climbs.
Nelkins makes a few good points, and to add another to his... Consider before spending 4 to 45 minutes TRing a line, is it worthy of leaving untouched, for a future muli-hour/day/week/month adventure?

[JC w KC redux]

This thread needs an enema.

 Agreed - We need a new "sticky" for Newly Established and Found Topropes.
I think I like this idea of toproping at Pinns.
I can leave most of my equipment at home.
I can leave my worries behind.
I'll no longer have that feeling driving down of - "Oh crap! I gotta get on the sharp end!!"
Thank you everyone for helping me see the light at the end of the toprope
I recently received literature from the AAC asking for donations to support programs that help gym climbers transition to the outside safely. If we just use topropes we can save all those funds, training and time.
And for those supporting the clean climbing/leave no trace/environmentally friendly ethic - please throw away your chalk or use Larry's colored chalk.
I feel so relaxed and relieved right now - peace be with you all...

[Jim]

The Rules:

     1.  You're birthed
     2.  You DIE

In between is the filler...

[clink]

I like icecold filler

[mynameismud]

isn't there a 30' rule?  Perhaps it should be a 40 or 50 foot rule?

I like TR's and think they are legit.  Sometimes I actually prefer them. 

can we have a rule that all routes easier than 5.8 are TR's?

[squiddo]

isn't there a 30' rule?  Perhaps it should be a 40 or 50 foot rule?

I like TR's and think they are legit.  Sometimes I actually prefer them. 

can we have a rule that all routes easier than 5.8 are TR's?

But, I thought those were solos?

[mungeclimber]

isn't there a 30' rule?  Perhaps it should be a 40 or 50 foot rule?

I like TR's and think they are legit.  Sometimes I actually prefer them. 

can we have a rule that all routes easier than 5.8 are TR's?

The height rule was about what is reported.

Clink, I'll reply more later, but the idea was wrt to the community as a whole, and slightly hyperbolic. But TR only approach would yield less of an impact. But steel is here to stay, at least until the land managers find a legal way to crank down and 'manage' the climber user base.

[JC w KC redux]

The Rules:
     1.  You're birthed
     2.  You DIE
In between is the filler...

You're harshin' on my mellow Jim

[F4?]

But what about the local rule?

If you move to east of Yosemite, you route projects are fair game?

I vote for 30 ft and 3 bolts.

[Brad Young]

I added to the list two routes that were recently established on North Watchman:

-  204.3  The Knight’s Watch  5.8

-  204.4  The White Walker  5.10a

[Brad Young]

I added one route to the list today:

- 205.1  Watch Those Jams 5.8

I also added a star to route 203.61  Where's Dave?. I didn't think this route was star-worthy (it's too short and there's too much moss on the rock). But Waldo, Clink and J.C. all disagreed; they thought that it was cool enough climbing and a nice enough summit as to be worth an (oh-so-coveted      ) star.

And, that's it for me (and likely too for any updates to this list) for this Pinnacles season. See most of you up here on granite until autumn!

[Atomizer]

Watch Those Jams is a route? I thought solos didn't count...