Author Topic: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)  (Read 2841080 times)

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #420 on: May 08, 2014, 02:56:34 PM »
Watch Those Jams is a route? I thought solos didn't count...

Duuude - I reported it in your honor and even renamed it at your request!
I still think it looks like a big rattle from a distance :)
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #421 on: May 08, 2014, 03:23:26 PM »

Watch Those Jams is a route? I thought solos didn't count...


Don't tell that to Denny and Colliver (a good number of their roped routes were, essentially, solos  ;)  ).

I though your solo was as valid a way to the summit of South Watchman as is the route that is listed in the book.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #422 on: May 08, 2014, 03:39:15 PM »

I still think it looks like a big rattle from a distance :)


Speaking of which I hope that when you did your climbs of South Watchman you both "topped out" (is an "ascent" valid if you don't?). Both times I was on top, I climbed up onto, and laid my torso over the top of that big, round, loose looking summit block. At least yesterday I had the advantage of a belay from Bob (in case it rolled off!).

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #423 on: May 08, 2014, 04:16:17 PM »
Speaking of which I hope that when you did your climbs of South Watchman you both "topped out" (is an "ascent" valid if you don't?). Both times I was on top, I climbed up onto, and laid my torso over the top of that big, round, loose looking summit block. At least yesterday I had the advantage of a belay from Bob (in case it rolled off!).

The book says the formation has 3 summits.  I can say I was on 2 of the three and according to Meatloaf, two outta three ain't bad ;)
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #424 on: May 08, 2014, 04:55:05 PM »
The book says the formation has 3 summits.  I can say I was on 2 of the three and according to Meatloaf, two outta three ain't bad ;)

Well I suggested to Bob yesterday that he summit by laying his torso over the top boulder too. Having much more dignity than I do, he reached up and patted the top. I can't recall his exact words, something like "I'm a patter." Perfect.

squiddo

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #425 on: May 08, 2014, 05:01:42 PM »
something like "I'm a patter." Perfect.

Ok I admit I giggled here Brad
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clink

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #426 on: May 08, 2014, 07:23:53 PM »
Quote
and laid my torso over the top

You should say that only once, or probably use a different description next time.
 
Or, I might be wrong, it could catch on. "How was the climb" reply " Bitch'n, I really laid my torso over it!"





Waldo and Brad, that was a classic day, hope you guys don't get PO.
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #427 on: May 08, 2014, 08:54:17 PM »
Waldo and Brad, that was a classic day.

S.I.A.D.
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clink

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #428 on: May 08, 2014, 09:02:31 PM »
Quote
S.I.A.D.

Self Injury Awareness Day?
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waldo

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #429 on: May 08, 2014, 10:07:17 PM »
No
PO

Patters are
Fatter

I'm a poet
And don't know it,
But my feet show it
Because -

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #430 on: May 09, 2014, 09:02:09 AM »
Still think it looks like a big rattle :)



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clink

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #431 on: September 28, 2014, 05:05:07 PM »
 Jeremy and i did a route last Jan? it is right of 579.5  What I’ve Been Missing Out On, which we were unaware of at the time.
 Joaquin The Dog  5.9/10a 2 bolts, nuts and cams. 1 bolt on top of pinnacle. Seemed runout at the time and fragile small holds at crux above bolt 2.
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #432 on: September 28, 2014, 08:27:13 PM »
Jeremy and i did a route last Jan? it is right of 579.5  What I’ve Been Missing Out On, which we were unaware of at the time.
 Joaquin The Dog  5.9/10a 2 bolts, nuts and cams. 1 bolt on top of pinnacle. Seemed runout at the time and fragile small holds at crux above bolt 2.

Nice pun for the name clink!
Call it rating-wise - none of this non-committal slashed stuff!
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clink

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #433 on: September 29, 2014, 06:28:08 AM »
Quote
Call it rating-wise - none of this non-committal slashed stuff!

Sorry JC, distributing weight evenly on the holds throws me off, and what with a third of the 9 SPH routes Brad showed me feeling way harder than the rating, I am doubting my rating ability.
5.10a then and you could break a hold and bust an ankle. There was a seam above the second bolt, but we didn't have any small stuff, and small stuff sticking there is wishful thinking.
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MUCCI

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #434 on: September 29, 2014, 09:29:55 PM »
Clink-

Was the joaqin route the right slanting seam a bit right of the "missing out" route?

John, who lead the FA, originally started up that seam, got way up there where it kicks back, and then backed down.

He was cussing the whole time!

Looked like a cool line, with plenty of sussing out to be had.

How was the gear after the first 15+ feet?


clink

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #435 on: September 30, 2014, 06:05:50 AM »
 Mucci, JTD starts on the toe of the corner the south and east faces of the pinnacle, it climbs up past one bolt to a right slanting crack/seam. Then back to a bolt towards the corner, above the second bolt it rejoins the seam, which becomes thin face. Jeremy let out a burst of cuss words too, as he finished the crux. We joined your route at the notch and bouldered up to the top(Jere gave me a spot), although the right side may go.

 Let know when you want to climb. I can think of 2 projects that are worthy.


 
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #436 on: October 28, 2014, 04:58:46 PM »
I added the following three routes to the list today, October 28, 2014:

12.5  The Long and the Short of It  5.9 *

564.61  Where’s Waldo  5.10a **

579.6  Joaquin the Dog  5.9 R

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #437 on: October 28, 2014, 05:01:46 PM »
And MUCCI, as you'll see from the description, Clink and I confirmed that what John Godar started up (and backed down cussing), was what is now the top half of Joaquin the Dog. As you'll also see from the description, John made a good choice to back down there. That part of Joaquin has a bolt and is still "R" rated (and loose).

clink

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #438 on: October 29, 2014, 05:40:04 AM »
Quote
and is still "R" rated (and loose).

Dangerous and sh#tty rock and pro. It started out ok, but the seam that draws you in leaves you committed on deteriorating holds, with a corner to hit below.
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kylequeener

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #439 on: October 29, 2014, 09:26:05 AM »
Photos from the FA of The long and the short of it.

Thanks for having me out there with you guys. Fun stuff.