Author Topic: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)  (Read 2841055 times)

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #440 on: October 29, 2014, 06:41:42 PM »
Great shots!  enticing looking line!
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Aaron McDonald

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #441 on: October 30, 2014, 11:07:05 AM »
This looks like a fun climb. Cannot wait to try it!

Gavin

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #442 on: October 30, 2014, 02:44:25 PM »
Nice photos, Kyle.

Yeah, it is a fun line. We brushed the hell out of it, but a good rainstorm or two should hopefully help to clear some of the dust and dirt nicely. I think it's a good addition to the routes in the Tourist Trap area.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #443 on: November 09, 2014, 10:35:31 PM »
Today I added 564.2 Meanderthal 5.5 *

It's a fun and adventurous route. It takes a meandering line-of-least-resistance (and so that aspect of the name fits). But for the life of me I still haven't figured out if the other aspect of the name refers to J.C.'s forehead, or to Clink's eyebrow.

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #444 on: November 09, 2014, 10:53:52 PM »
Me and Him Tall?
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

clink

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #445 on: November 10, 2014, 06:43:47 AM »
Quote
But for the life of me I still haven't figured out if the other aspect of the name refers to J.C.'s forehead, or to Clink's eyebrow.

I hope the Neanderthal politically correct crowd take no offense to the name.

The FA-tionists(Aaron included) understand that not all Neanderthals are the same. Stereotyping is not acceptable. Like saying all lawyers are snakes when there are at least 3,000 species of snakes.

We ARE sensitive and kind. Can't all you people, like, understand that!!!





Sorry I missed out on the fun.

Causing trouble when not climbing.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #446 on: November 10, 2014, 06:50:56 AM »
This morning I added: 487.8 Up a Crook Without a Paddle 5.9 R

I also took the unusual step of including a bit about this route's history, which is quite a bit more sketchy than most Pinnacles obscurities. I for one am glad Bruce pulled off that unprotected (and possibly unbelayed!) 1977 third pitch lead.

MUCCI

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #447 on: November 11, 2014, 09:26:49 PM »
I just realized where the long and the short of it is!

In 06'  I got up to where Brad is standing ready to drill the bolt, just above the crack.

I was with Chuck Clance, and I was pretty sketched up there as it was new in my FA career.

Downclimbed it, and from there was trouble enough.

I remember thinking, as I was new to pinns, that that area was somehow off limits or something later on.

Always wanted to get back out there.

good work finishing it, looked good above the crack, but WAY too above my head at the time.

Looks like Fun, and with a good crew.


mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #448 on: November 12, 2014, 09:40:27 PM »
There used to be signs over there for no climbing off that direction. Not sure if the Rubine guides ever mentioned the signage, etc.

On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

clink

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #449 on: November 13, 2014, 06:29:28 AM »
Quote
There used to be signs over there for no climbing off that direction.

I moved them to that lone rock on hwy 25, after years of using them to protect my projects.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #450 on: November 13, 2014, 06:51:16 AM »

There used to be signs over there for no climbing off that direction.



Yeah, they're still there - just past where one accesses the ledge from which "The Long and The Short of It" starts (same ledge that allows access to the midway bolts on Thrill Hammer).

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #451 on: November 20, 2014, 11:00:42 AM »
There used to be signs over there for no climbing off that direction. Not sure if the Rubine guides ever mentioned the signage, etc.

It's been my experience that people don't read signs.
No mention in that other purple book.
One wheel shy of normal

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #452 on: November 24, 2014, 08:33:13 PM »
Today I added route: 400.1 Puny Legs 5.4

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #453 on: November 25, 2014, 09:51:46 PM »
Grey Cleft is left of anything?  What are you guys smoking out there?

On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #454 on: November 26, 2014, 06:37:05 AM »
Grey Cleft is left of anything?  What are you guys smoking out there?

That is correct.
Go check it out.
clink, Kat and I also did a boulder problem that you might enjoy.
Here is the description.

Munchkin 5.9*
This 25 foot highball boulder problem starts on the right
- past the tree described in the approach to Grey Cleft.
Powerful boulder moves at the start lead to easier climbing above. There is no protection on this route.
Climbers shorter than 5’10” will probably rate the starting moves somewhere in the 10’s.
FA Jon Cochran, John Cook, Kathy Cook 11-15-14

Here is pic showing the start.



One wheel shy of normal

clink

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #455 on: November 26, 2014, 08:30:30 AM »
Quote
Grey Cleft is left of anything?

Left of the High Peaks from a certain vantagepoint.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #456 on: November 26, 2014, 08:34:45 AM »
I'm not sure that this post is worth its own thread, but I've got to put it somewhere.

I spent Sunday and Monday at Pinns with my friend from Twain Harte, Roger Putnam. This was Roger's first visit ever to Pinns.

We got there late enough Sunday that we "only" got five hours of climbing in (I wrote "only" since Roger tends to climb like Clint and Mud - you've got to start and end at dark or it isn't a real day of climbing).

Sunday we did one route that was new to me. This route was among the worst 10% of routes I've ever done at Pinns (really bad rock quality and dirt everywhere). I led this and then invited Roger to skip it. He insisted that he wanted to at least follow it and then did so. He ended up just laughing at how bad it was. But this turned out to be a critical climb - it helped him set his gauge regarding how bad Pinns climbs can be.

Roger then led both pitches of Lava Falls (and actually Clink, J.C. and others who were at Smiling Simian thought he pretty much sprinted up them). He loved it. While I removed and patched a stray bolt stud on Lava Fall's first pitch, Roger joined the J.C./Clink crew at Smiling Simian. He did every route there on lead, toprope or free solo.

Among the fun we had, Roger was really most impressed with the quality of the climbing crew we'd hung with that day.

On Monday we got to the East Side at 7:00 a.m. We ran up to Pipsqueak where we repeated John's route Puny Legs and did the fun new boulder problem there that J.C. and Clink had reported.

Then it got impressive.

Roger had to leave by 2:00 to get back and teach a class. After Pipsqueak we went to Discovery (which we had all to ourselves). Roger proceeded to onsight all of the following routes, in order:

-  Portent,

-  Wet Kiss,

-  Stupendous Man,

-  Lithium,

-  Melvin,

-  Verdict,

-  Broken Arrow.

We ended on The Long And The Short of It, which is new and which he enjoyed.

He liked Pinns. I liked introducing someone with his level of enthusiasm to the place.



mynameismud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #457 on: November 26, 2014, 09:52:44 AM »
That is a good first weekend.
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #458 on: November 26, 2014, 10:05:58 AM »
No cantaloupe death? :)
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #459 on: November 26, 2014, 10:30:04 AM »

No cantaloupe death? :)


Actually he really wanted to get on the Monolith classics up to Feed the Beast. But when we went by there it was still pretty cold, so we went to Discovery.