Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)

[mungeclimber]

Sunday we did one route that was new to me. This route was among the worst 10% of routes I've ever done at Pinns (really bad rock quality and dirt everywhere). I led this and then invited Roger to skip it. He insisted that he wanted to at least follow it and then did so. He ended up just laughing at how bad it was. But this turned out to be a critical climb - it helped him set his gauge regarding how bad Pinns climbs can be.

/slowly it dawns on Munge that culpability is a slippery mossy choss pile back to the FA team.
could it be?




Oh, and RP3, did you get a lead on the Higgins route on Simian?  I'm getting close to thinking about it.

[Brad Young]

/slowly it dawns on Munge that culpability is a slippery mossy choss pile back to the FA team.
could it be?




Oh, and RP3, did you get a lead on the Higgins route on Simian?  I'm getting close to thinking about it.

Yes, it is. But I left those specifics out of my post on purpose.

I don't think he looks at Mudn'Crud (one of his few serious character flaws), so I'll answer for him. He led it onsight too.

[mungeclimber]

Yowza! Nice lead onsight. You can't hardly see the bolts. I should have left the upper one as a leeper, just for him to have a challenge! 


You may have climbed that "route" wrong.

[Brad Young]

Yowza! Nice lead onsight. You can't hardly see the bolts. I should have left the upper one as a leeper, just for him to have a challenge!  


You may have climbed that "route" wrong.

Binoculars.

"Wrong" in the sense that I didn't follow your exact "footsteps?"

Maybe, there's no telling where you guys went in the first 55 feet. But I'll bet I was within 10 feet of where you climbed for 90% of that part of the route. And I clipped 100% of the bolts on it as I climbed. I'd say I did the "route."

And yes, it may not yet be a route in the sense that you intend to go higher with it. So maybe I should call it a pitch/route (since the one pitch that is there does have an anchor)?

[mungeclimber]

wrong in the sense that it is a classic!

classics aren't loose or dirty, right?

[Brad Young]

wrong in the sense that it is a classic!

classics aren't loose or dirty, right?

Oh, I get it now. Yes, total classic. Not many routes at Pinns get the coveted ATDS rating.

And to add to your sense of pride, Roger told me it was the worst route he'd ever done in his life. I heard him say that same thing to his fiancee when they talked by phone too.

That's a hell of a claim to fame.

[mynameismud]

And to add to your sense of pride, Roger told me it was the worst route he'd ever done in his life.

dang funny.

[mungeclimber]

Oh, I get it now. Yes, total classic. Not many routes at Pinns get the coveted ATDS rating.

And to add to your sense of pride, Roger told me it was the worst route he'd ever done in his life. I heard him say that same thing to his fiancee when they talked by phone too.

That's a hell of a claim to fame.

There is a naming convention that Josh has started. Hopefully he'll come back and help finish this off so we can include him in it and name it properly as it progresses upwards.

awesome!

[clink]

as it progresses upwards.

ATDS6X ?

[F4?]

All my routes are classics!

[Brad Young]

All my routes are classics!

You are a classic. Your routes however? Not so much.

[mynameismud]

You are a classic. Your routes however? Not so much.

That is two in a row. 

[clink]

You are a classic

One day you will be an antique and over 50 like Brad.

Enjoy being a classic.

[JC w KC redux]

Geez. Talk about a thread drift.
I blame Brad
Where is the moderator when you need them?
Do we need to appoint a sticky Czar?

[Brad Young]

I blame Brad

Yeah, whatever. I've probably put all of us at risk. The whole internet and in particular this forum are in imminent danger of filling up to capacity.

Yikes.

[clink]

I blame Brad

Why not.

[JC w KC redux]

whatever

meh is the current lingo

You started the sticky so I guess you can do whatever.

With your penchant for war games I'm surprised you're not in touch with your inner Nazi

[clink]

With your penchant for war games

Male Power panel short camo boxer brief soldier shorts.

Merry Christmas war game attire for yours truly. Could wear also on Bandits In Bondage lead.

[clink]

350.5 Bandits in Bondage - second pitch 5.11, 6x to a 2x chained belay.
Good, hard moves. A #1.5 or #2 Friend is recommended in the pocket below the 3rd bolt.
FA - James McConachie, Dennis Erik Mr Mud, 3/30/02
The first 3 bolts were placed by McConachies in the late 80s

Has the second pitch ever seen other ascents?

[Brad Young]

...meh is the current lingo

Whatever. And long (stupid) shorts are the current fad.

Clink, I don't know of any person other than Dennis and Jim who's done Bandit's second pitch.