Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)

[mungeclimber]

more importantly, how is the quality?

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

You had no right - never, never stop re-bolting like that again.

(Which day did you two do the route?)

February 10th, 2015 - quality is 0.5 stars.  Good rock, but not sustained in difficulty.

[JC w KC redux]

Clint and I took a morning off from rebolting and added a route on Tiburcio's X.
195.5 - Tiburcio's Y 5.6 - climb the northeast arete of the Tiburcio's formation past three bolts starting 50 feet off of the Rim Trail about 100 feet north of the top of Vigilante.

You had no right - never, never stop re-bolting like that again.

more importantly, how is the quality?

Oh Geezus - I'm goin' back in my hidey hole!

[Brad Young]

Oh Geezus - I'm goin' back in my hidey hole!

Nah, stay out. We gonna get your lily white ass out on some granite too. Real soon.

[clink]

Clint and I took a morning off from rebolting and added a route on Tiburcio's X.

Cool, will have to check it out.

[JC w KC redux]

Clint and I took a morning off from rebolting and added a route on Tiburcio's X.
195.5 - Tiburcio's Y 5.6 - climb the northeast arete of the Tiburcio's formation past three bolts starting 50 feet off of the Rim Trail about 100 feet north of the top of Vigilante.

I believe we got the coveted 2nd ascent of the route today. It's fun and well protected with a long and easy runout to the top. There is a nice knob that acts as a directional for the follower.

Thanks guys!

P.S. Ride the new wave 

[Brad Young]

Today I added to the list:

381.1  Welcome Respite 5.4

Here's the whole description:

This fairly long but easy route starts 25 feet right of Catatonic Stupor. Climb a lower-angle ramp on good rock to a headwall 30 feet up. Pass the headwall and then continue on more low angle rock to finish at the top of the chimney between the second and third knuckles. Belay there using body position. Descend by moving down the same chimney to the west (toward the opposite side from where the route comes up). Although the first ascent of this route was made free solo, the first ascent author recommended that any future climbers place a bolt or two for protection. FA Party: Gavin Emmons. FA Date: February 15, 2015. Source(s): Self, watched Emmons make the first ascent.

Also, I'm waiting to add Bruce and Clint's new route until I've climbed it and can give a better description.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Also, I'm waiting to add Bruce and Clint's new route until I've climbed it and can give a better description.

Try not to be too underwhelmed:-)

[kylequeener]

I never thought about calling this a route but I just came across my markings in my guide book and remember this climbing really really well. On 4/20/2012 I climbed a link up of Castles Made of Sand (206) and Sound Chaser (207) that start by clipping the first bolt on 206 and the climbing up the obvious ramp thingy until you can clip the fifth bolt on 207. I placed some so-so nuts for protection but they all fell out. The only piece that stayed in was a .75 BD with two lobes engaged. It climbed like an easy 5.10 but the lack of protection spices it up and it's likely 5.10 R. Or maybe X. I recall little lose rock. Climbed ground up on lead w/ Trevor James. A bolt might be nice.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

300.5 - Extra Point 5.9 (TR), South Goal Post - Bruce Hildenbrand 3/3/14 - Climb the steep, somewhat loose north east face just to the climber's left of the regular(4th class) route.  Join that route at it's crux to top out.

[Brad Young]

I just added this new Knuckle Ridge route to the list:

381.4  Witch’s Broomstick  5.8

And then edited the nearby route Welcome Respite to reflect the experience of the second ascent party.

[Brad Young]

And, also today, I added the routes at The Northeast Frontier to the list.

I should note here too that, of the dozen routes that exist at this area, two have had only two ascents but all of the others have been led between six and a dozen times each (plus follows/topropes). The ratings and stars at this area are all based on very strong consensus.

[clink]

JC heading to the next stance on Soapbox Slab.

[JC w KC redux]

thanks clink - pictures are so deceiving!

[mudworm]

And, also today, I added the routes at The Northeast Frontier to the list.

Anybody got a photo of someone climbing Pit Vipor? It looks really cool, esp. when a climber is being half swallowed by the vipor. I remember being impressed with the sight, but I didn't bother go fetch my phone/camera and now I regret it. It is a fun climb indeed and I personally appreciate that the FAs made an effort to make it safe for future ascents even though the initial route had fewer bolts when established.

[clink]

thanks clink - pictures are so deceiving!

 Your welcome.
Yes, the rock looks solider and your head looks almost normal due to foreshortening.

[mungeclimber]

JC heading to the next stance on Soapbox Slab.

that looks really familiar.

[Brad Young]

...and your head looks almost normal due to foreshortening.

Dude's on a roll. Remind me not to get on his bad side.

Brian took some photos of Dawson leading it (but from back a ways). I'll see if I can get him to post up (and thereby get him to join this forum!).

[Brad Young]

Only in the new century.

I called Brian. He picked up the phone and said: "Hi, I'll call you back in two minutes, I'm belaying Whitney."

If he'd said that to me 25 years ago I'd have thought he was in an insane asylum.

Anyway, I think I've got him talked into joining and posting the photos he took.

[JC w KC redux]

I sent some pics to mudworm so she could post them.