Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)

[clink]

that looks really familiar. Wink

That chute(s) to the right looks cool.

[mudworm]

I sent some pics to mudworm so she could post them.

Thanks JC for the photos. I had no idea you took photos when I was on the route. It's a toss up which thread to post the photos in, so I posted a couple in the other one.

[clink]

On the formation right of Flue Fire. Project?  Chimney sweep and Flue Fire are both on the same formation, a dirt and brush gully separates them from this pinnacle to the right.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

301.5 WIzard's Wall 5.9+/5.10a* - Wizard Pinnacle - Clint Cummins and Bruce Hildenbrand 3/17/15

Clint and I took an afternoon off when we were rebolting in the Hanging Valley/Kasparek's Ridge and put up this route.  The description for Sorcerer of Slab mentions a 'narrow chasm'.  This route is located on the left-hand wall as you exit that chasm.  The climb has 5-bolts.  The climbing past the first three is about 5.8.  At the third bolt, mantel into a large hole and make a balancy clip of the 4th bolt.  The fifth bolt is hard to clip, especially for short people, but the 4th bolt is right at your waist.  The crux is past the last two bolts where the steepness and the pump factor combine to provide the difficulties.  Rappel from the anchors.  The rock quality is pretty good.

The climb is only 40 feet long which was good since our rope got into some poison oak at the base of Sorcerer of Slab(one of the dangers of rapping in from the top) and we only had about 80 feet of unaffected rope.  Also of note was that the ticks were out in full force that day.  While I was belaying Clint as he put in a bolt I counted six ticks on me at one time.  Poison oak and ticks!  Does it get any better at the Pinnacles?

[mungeclimber]

lol

ticks, not me mang!

[clink]

 Poison oak and ticks!  Does it get any better at the Pinnacles?

Only if it's JC's rope

The rock quality is pretty good.

An anomaly, will have to do it.

WIzard's Wall 5.9+/5.10a*

Still climbing like 35 yr olds? Nice.

[Brad Young]

I added four routes to the list today:

-  195.5  Tiburcio’s Y  5.6 R

-  299.9  Extra Point  5.9 (TR)

-  301.1  The Chamber of Secrets  5.5

-  301.2  Wizard’s Wall  5.10a **

Note too that on Wizard's Wall, Cummins and Hildenbrand thought the route was worth one "star." The route received about six leads on the Sunday of the Masters of Mud weekend and both the rating and the two stars are derived from a strong consensus.

[Brad Young]

I added these routes to the list today:

- On The Love Handles formation:

219.8  Muffin Top  5.9 *


- On Byzantium/Deep Groove Wall:

388.31  Tuff Chix  5.7

388.34  Out to Lunch  5.9

388.35  No Room for Squares  5.8 *


I also adjusted/changed the numbers of these routes which are also on Byzantium:

388.7  Perne in a Gyre  5.6

388.9  No Country For Old Men  5.7 R


Finally I updated the total number of routes at Pinns to show 1,020 routes publicly known to exist as of today, November 17, 2015 (there's only one route on the "private" list now, and it should probably be on this list; first ascentionist of that route, what do you say?).

[squiddo]

I added these routes to the list today:

- On The Love Handles formation:

219.8  Muffin Top  5.9 *


- On Byzantium/Deep Groove Wall:

388.31  Tuff Chix  5.7

388.34  Out to Lunch  5.9

388.35  No Room for Squares  5.8 *


I also adjusted/changed the numbers of these routes which are also on Byzantium:

388.7  Perne in a Gyre  5.6

388.9  No Country For Old Men  5.7 R


Finally I updated the total number of routes at Pinns to show 1,020 routes publicly known to exist as of today, November 17, 2015 (there's only one route on the "private" list now, and it should probably be on this list; first ascentionist of that route, what do you say?).

Very nice, need to go back no baby backpack

[looks easy from here]

Awesome! Thanks for the updates. I was planning on poking around that rock within the next week anyways; it'll be nice to know what I'm looking at.

[Tuff Chik]

Awesome! Thanks for the updates. I was planning on poking around that rock within the next week anyways; it'll be nice to know what I'm looking at.

You will have to let me know what you think of Tuff Chix! 

[Brad Young]

You will have to let me know what you think of Tuff Chix! 

I like three of them very much and love the other one more than life itself.

[looks easy from here]

You will have to let me know what you think of Tuff Chix! 

For sure! I actually ended up running up there today with the little guy to scout the approach in anticipation of getting some of the tuff chix in my life out there. Since it was just the two of us we only made it up the 2nd class chute on the other side of Byzantium, but I'll be back with reinforcements next time. 

[mynameismud]

New Route.

Humping Lizards.  5.7 or so.  Currently 3 bolts and 3 camalots (#3, #1, .75).  If anyone does this and thinks it needs additional bolts I think it is fine to add them.  The route goes up a 200 foot arête behind Beak Peak right off the trail that goes between what I think is  Beak Peak and Scout Peak.  My description is weak and so am I.

[JC w KC redux]

New Route.
Humping Lizards.  5.7 or so.  Currently 3 bolts and 2 red camalots and one green.  If anyone does this and thinks it needs additional bolts I think it is fine to add them.  The route goes up a 200 foot arête behind Beak Peak.

I am headed up there with Tuff Chik this coming Saturday to finish Katwalk and do your route.
I'll make some notes and take a few more pics too.

[mynameismud]

I'll make some notes and take a few more pics too.

Thanks, I will appreciate the improved write up.

[JC w KC redux]

Thanks, I will appreciate the improved write up.

Sorry we didn't get to it today. I was happy that we finished Katwalk though and happy that it turned out to be better than expected. You guys will have to climb it and tell me what you think.

We will definitely get on Lizards in a couple weeks - weather permitting.

Did you top out the new Pinnacle or is it still taunting you?
We figured you guys didn't last too much longer - Noal's bolt was the last?

[mynameismud]

It is still taunting us.  I failed to get in the next bolt and we hiked out in the dark.  Good times.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Route #264.5 - 5.6 X - Clint's Escape - FA 1996, Clint Cummins, Lynn Murphy This route climbs the water streak directly across the Yaks Corridor from the chimney on the South Yak West Face route and can be used to climb out of the Yaks Corridor back to the Beast of Burden Rappel.  Climb up onto a big chockstone to the 40' water streak.  Make a 5.6 move to gain a big hold.  Higher up as the streak steepens there is another 5.6 move as you stem/chimney on small holds.  Clint wants to go back and put in some bolts to make this protectable.  In it's current state a fall anywhere on this route would lead to serious injury or worse.

[clink]

Route #264.5 - 5.6 X - Clint's Escape - FA 1996, Clint Cummins, Lynn Murphy This route climbs the water streak directly across the Yaks Corridor from the chimney on the South Yak West Face route and can be used to climb out of the Yaks Corridor back to the Beast of Burden Rappel.  Climb up onto a big chockstone to the 40' water streak.  Make a 5.6 move to gain a big hold.  Higher up as the streak steepens there is another 5.6 move as you stem/chimney on small holds.  Clint wants to go back and put in some bolts to make this protectable.  In it's current state a fall anywhere on this route would lead to serious injury or worse.

 Nice description. I say leave it as is, on the menu for variety, unless our dear mutual friend hasn't climbed it (and therefore has to due to his...) it might be reasonable to tame it to a R.

 As to the individual who may consider climbing it in it's current state, all I can point out is that I on the other hand had good schooling and a decent upbringing, and know better than to repeat someone's obvious mistake.