Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)

[Atomizer]

Made the grunt out to the Northeast Frontier yesterday with Joe, Dani, Zachary, and Jon. We did all the routes on the main formation that has the cobra on it except for the ones Joe and I soloed before. Fun location. Both times I've been to this clump of mud I've wondered why it's called The Northeast Frontier; the formation is the most Southeasterly formation with routes on it in the park. Should be The Southeastern Frontier.

We enjoyed the cobra and Viper. Both cool routes.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Route #264.5 - 5.6 X - Clint's Escape - FA 1996, Clint Cummins, Lynn Murphy This route climbs the water streak directly across the Yaks Corridor from the chimney on the South Yak West Face route and can be used to climb out of the Yaks Corridor back to the Beast of Burden Rappel.  Climb up onto a big chockstone to the 40' water streak.  Make a 5.6 move to gain a big hold.  Higher up as the streak steepens there is another 5.6 move as you stem/chimney on small holds.  Clint wants to go back and put in some bolts to make this protectable.  In it's current state a fall anywhere on this route would lead to serious injury or worse.

Clint and I finally got around to installing some bolts on this.  There are three bolts on the lower section.  The last 10-15 feet, where the crux 5.7 moves are, not 5.6 as previously reported,  is a bit runout so this climb deserves an R rating.

264.3 - 5.6 - Bruce's Escape - FA April 5, 2016, Bruce Hildenbrand and Clint Cummins.  This route climbs the right-facing dihedral about 50 feet downhill from Clint's Escape.  Two bolts in about 40' of climbing.  Belay from tree(s).

Note:  both these routes were put up to allow a means to get back to the Yaks Rappel after climbing on the North and South Yaks.  They aren't really destination climbs.  They are just there to facilitate getting back to the rim.

[Brad Young]

I added five routes to the list today:

-  264.4  Bruce’s Escape  5.6

-  264.7  Clint’s Escape  5.6 R

-  286.5  Boulder on the Shoulder 5.1

-  294.4  Step Down Regimen  5.2

-  294.5  All Jacked Up  5.4

[AndrewPinn]

Hey, been a long time since I've posted anything on here. I'm sure I could find this out if I read through this entire thread, but I'm kind of lazy (damn millennial generation). But I was wondering if you thought there was potential near the trail up North Chalone peak, above the hand. I was up there recently and I didn't see any bolts on what looked like possible moderates. I'll admit that I've never put up a FA, but I'm aware of the ground up, hand crank ethics of bolting here. I thought it would be cool to take the time to find a route that really inspires me and put something up, particularly in the place where I've done the most climbing. I just don't want to step on any toes or put up an unnecessary route, so I was wondering what you all thought about a new guy going in looking for inspiring stuff? Also wondering if the area I'm thinking of is already very developed, and I'm just behind the 8-ball? I should be out there at the beginning of June. Will be hot, but I'll make the trek early to see what's possible

[JC w KC redux]

Hey, been a long time since I've posted anything on here. I'm sure I could find this out if I read through this entire thread, but I'm kind of lazy (damn millennial generation). But I was wondering if you thought there was potential near the trail up North Chalone peak, above the hand. I was up there recently and I didn't see any bolts on what looked like possible moderates. I'll admit that I've never put up a FA, but I'm aware of the ground up, hand crank ethics of bolting here. I thought it would be cool to take the time to find a route that really inspires me and put something up, particularly in the place where I've done the most climbing. I just don't want to step on any toes or put up an unnecessary route, so I was wondering what you all thought about a new guy going in looking for inspiring stuff? Also wondering if the area I'm thinking of is already very developed, and I'm just behind the 8-ball? I should be out there at the beginning of June. Will be hot, but I'll make the trek early to see what's possible

Hey Andrew - You just missed our Masters of Mud weekend where all your questions could have been answered - ironic huh?There are some developed areas off the Chalone Peak Trail that don't have bolts but you'll have to be more specific about the location. There are also some remote areas up that way where really old climbs have just a few old bolts that will be very hard or virtually impossible to see - Rubble Wall for instance. I have been wanting to explore that area for quite some time. Maybe post a screenshot from Google Earth with the potential area labeled if it is not already in the current guidebook. We are also developing a new area off that trail and Brad is planning to make it public in the next few weeks. I'll be climbing and rebolting throughout the summer. You can send me message on here if you like and we can make a plan to meet.

[AndrewPinn]

Thanks for the post back! I'll take some time to look into the area I've been thinking of further. I graduate May 21st, and after that I'm free to rebolt or put up routes whenever needed. Anytime you want to meet after that would be awesome!

[clink]

Thanks for the post back! I'll take some time to look into the area I've been thinking of further. I graduate May 21st, and after that I'm free to rebolt or put up routes whenever needed. Anytime you want to meet after that would be awesome!

 Because it's there and inconvenient to find. 

[Brad Young]

Thanks for the post back! I'll take some time to look into the area I've been thinking of further. I graduate May 21st, and after that I'm free to rebolt or put up routes whenever needed. Anytime you want to meet after that would be awesome!

Andrew, yes, several of the posters here would be great teachers. Starting with them would put you on the right track (I don't include myself in this comment for now since, after next weekend I will be done with my Pinns season until next Autumn).

The formation you posted about does seem to be The Rubble Wall (pages 124 and 125 of the 2007 guidebook). That's the only thing that seems to fit your description. That "wall" has five routes on it, all older than I am. It's surprisingly easy to approach from above (after a relatively long hike on the trail).

Where are you graduating from?

[mungeclimber]

June is toasty! JC is your guy for summer pain.

Hand drillin on granite is fun too.

[AndrewPinn]

Alright, I see it now in the book. I'll have to check that wall out next time!

I'm graduating from Sac State.

June is the perfect time for night climbing though! Since the rock burns you during the day

[mungeclimber]

Sac is so close to Sierra granite goodness though!

There are untouched walls at Pinns. You'll be surprised after getting the locations and existing climbs dialed in.

[clink]

Andrew, you are being seduced by granite climbers in moss and lichen covered clothing.
Beware!

[AndrewPinn]

Now I love me some granite, but something about being 20 feet above a bolt and having a foot chip break on you is so enticing!

[mynameismud]

There is a lot of fun to be had.  Keep and eye out, there are some good places to go when the Pins get hot.

[Brad Young]

Now I love me some granite, but something about being 20 feet above a bolt and having a foot chip break on you is so enticing!

Jesus, you better learn from Cook. I've been climbing there for 32 years now and I really don't find that kinda stuff "enticing!" 

[clink]

but something about being 20 feet above a bolt and having a foot chip break on you is so enticing!

 A restraining order may be necessary.

[Brad Young]

I added two routes to the list today:

-  410.9  Sew What Slot  5.8

-  484.5  Summit Experience  5.6

On Summit Experience, would each of you that has had the unusually pleasant opportunity of climbing this please read the description carefully - this one was really hard to write up.

I'm working on descriptions for several other new routes and will post them when they are ready.

[clink]

To b or not to c the light.

Remember, every time I climb it it goes up a letter and I plan on climbing it again this Sunday.

[mynameismud]

with the person there it is clear it is taller than 28 feet.

[Brad Young]

Remember, every time I climb it it goes up a letter and I plan on climbing it again this Sunday.

He said with god-like omniscience....