Author Topic: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)  (Read 2841063 times)

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #720 on: April 30, 2016, 04:27:12 PM »
i'm not the attache but here ya go
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raymond_Chandler

We don't click on links here - unless they are missing links - which you obviously have a few of - along with a few screws loose!  ;D :D :lol:

And perhaps our cultural attache could explain to those of us not in the know who Mr Chandler is?

Chandler is the guys on friends that gets with Monica  :o ??? ::)
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waldo

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #721 on: April 30, 2016, 04:31:39 PM »
We don't click on links here - unless they are missing links - which you obviously have a few of - along with a few screws loose!  ;D :D :lol:

Chandler is the guys on friends that gets with Monica  :o ??? ::)

I thought friends were mostly found in cracks.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #722 on: April 30, 2016, 04:52:24 PM »
-  410.9  Sew What Slot  5.8

-  410.26  O.C.D. Overdrive  5.8 *

I led Sew What Slot and pitch 1 of OCD today. I already led p2 of OCD Monday when Brad and I climbed the whole route. I very carefully cleaned off/removed loose stuff from Sew What Slot. I also added some longer chains to the anchor. The rope pulls really nice now. I used every cam on my rack except the #2 camalot. I didn't take a #4.
I used one each - green, yellow, gray, red alien and 0.5, .75, 1, 3, 5 and 6 camalots.
That's 6 more pieces than Brad placed when he led it  :o - not by choice of course - that's all he had.
There is a surprising amount of decent rock and some interesting moves.
The rappel doesn't quite reach the trail but deposits you about 8 feet up into the start of the slot where it is easy to get down.


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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #723 on: April 30, 2016, 08:03:59 PM »

I led Sew What Slot and pitch 1 of OCD today. I already led p2 of OCD Monday when Brad and I climbed the whole route. I very carefully cleaned off/removed loose stuff from Sew What Slot. I also added some longer chains to the anchor. The rope pulls really nice now. I used every cam on my rack except the #2 camalot. I didn't take a #4.
I used one each - green, yellow, gray, red alien and 0.5, .75, 1, 3, 5 and 6 camalots.
That's 6 more pieces than Brad placed when he led it  :o - not by choice of course - that's all he had.
There is a surprising amount of decent rock and some interesting moves.
The rappel doesn't quite reach the trail but deposits you about 8 feet up into the start of the slot where it is easy.


Kinda sad, isn't it? In one week's time we probably tripled the number of ascents this route has seen. And now no-one will ever climb it again (because it has no stars)   :(  :(


clink

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #724 on: April 30, 2016, 08:23:48 PM »
Quote
There is a surprising amount of decent rock and some interesting moves.

Compared to?
Causing trouble when not climbing.

NOAL

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #725 on: April 30, 2016, 08:48:02 PM »
^^if you buy into the whole star thing.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #726 on: May 02, 2016, 09:08:16 AM »
^^if you buy into the whole star thing.

Did you see my route name in Route Words?

Dude Where's My Star?


We have a new reptile in the lineup of Pinnacles critters. KC and I climbed it yesterday.
First was The Frog (amphibian), then The Snail (gastropod) and The Tadpole (future frogs of America  ;D).



The Turtle 5.3 joined the ranks on 5-1-16  ;D :D 8)
The head is a little small - could this be ancestral Zika virus? :o

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JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #727 on: May 03, 2016, 07:01:00 AM »

KC follows Sew What Slot






Nice new chains on the rebolted anchor - Sew What Slot - now go use 'em!






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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #728 on: May 27, 2016, 07:03:40 PM »
Big step: I added twenty (20!) routes to the list today. All of these new routes start with either #302 or #305. All are on the (previously unclimbed) formations The Old Man, Granny's Kitchen, Widow's Peak, or are on the ridge-top near them.

There are some really good routes in these areas.

NOAL

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #729 on: May 28, 2016, 07:35:29 PM »
Wow 20 new routes! What's more surprising is John's photo of the chains on sew what chimney.  What is that something like 15 links and ten? Even with putting in the new anchor and returning with the chains I have to give it to you as the equalization meister. Did you have alternates of chain in your pack?

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #730 on: May 30, 2016, 12:17:16 PM »
Wow 20 new routes! What's more surprising is John's photo of the chains on sew what chimney.  What is that something like 15 links and ten? Even with putting in the new anchor and returning with the chains I have to give it to you as the equalization meister. Did you have alternates of chain in your pack?

Thanks Noal - it was 9 and 15. When I followed Brad's lead and replaced the anchor we left webbing, screwlinks and single chain links.
I used another sling to measure the difference and tied a knot in it so I could measure the offset when I got home.
When Kat and I went back I didn't take any alternate pieces since I had cams to #6  :o

I had to play around with the vectors a bit to get a good angle. What's your vector Victor?   


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climberdude

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #731 on: June 05, 2016, 07:00:25 PM »
I climbed the fairly new route "Where's Dave?" (5.5) on The Toe today.  The critical large knob for the starting crux move is loose and wobbling slightly.  This knob is critical for the lieback/rock-up move onto the face from the ledge.   When this breaks off, it will drastically change the rating of this fun route.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #732 on: June 13, 2016, 02:26:07 PM »
I climbed the fairly new route "Where's Dave?" (5.5) on The Toe today.  The critical large knob for the starting crux move is loose and wobbling slightly.  This knob is critical for the lieback/rock-up move onto the face from the ledge.   When this breaks off, it will drastically change the rating of this fun route.

Should stay intact for a few more ascents since Brad and Aaron have already climbed it  :ihih: :yesnod: :lol:
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #733 on: June 13, 2016, 02:27:36 PM »

Enjoying the fruits of my labor Sunday and the benefits of a positive ape index  ;D :yesnod: :ihih:

Redpointing Here's Mud in Your Eye 5.8**!


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clink

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #734 on: October 03, 2016, 06:08:18 AM »
 Climbed Squeaky Clean Mud with JC, as he says, it was stupid fun. Steep 5.6.

 Aaron, myself, Bee and Paul climbed Mud Diamond, sweet rock. They also climbed Prairie Falcon, Imprint, Here's Mud in your Eye and Bathing Beauty. Aaron , JC also wandered up Craig's route, said it was good.

 Many of these are north facing, great for warm days but cold in the wind yesterday.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

waldo

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #735 on: October 03, 2016, 06:03:49 PM »
Squeaky is worth the walk out there by itself!

Max

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #736 on: November 06, 2016, 06:17:06 PM »
Does The Proctor, 5.6 ascend the upper (shorter and lower angle) crack of the formation, or the lower (longer and steeper)crack in the corner (both are up and right cracks)? The lower, longer crack seemed more difficult at the start than the upper crack, which was pretty trivial and low angle. The lower crack also moves onto the face and meets up with the upper crack route to summit the formation.

There are also two newer bolts on top, not one old one. Two SS bolts? with plated hangers which are covered in weird white spots. Is that galvanic corrosion?
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #737 on: November 06, 2016, 08:06:15 PM »
Does The Proctor, 5.6 ascend the upper (shorter and lower angle) crack of the formation, or the lower (longer and steeper)crack in the corner (both are up and right cracks)? The lower, longer crack seemed more difficult at the start than the upper crack, which was pretty trivial and low angle. The lower crack also moves onto the face and meets up with the upper crack route to summit the formation.

There are also two newer bolts on top, not one old one. Two SS bolts? with plated hangers which are covered in weird white spots. Is that galvanic corrosion?

Drill dust or bird poop? Definitely not galvanic corrosion. Looking again I believe that is just stainless "patina". Absolutley nothing to worry about. Those bolts will be good for 100 years or more.
Check my rebolting master list - I just replaced that anchor not too long ago - our rebolting replacement standard is all stainless long 5 pc bolts and hangers with the ASCA stamp. I usually use Petzl hangers for the lead bolts. No mixed metals ever.


Here is the route. 

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Max

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #738 on: November 07, 2016, 09:17:02 AM »
It must have been the dust that had dried on the hangers then and made them look like that.

I figured that lower crack was the proctor, since the rating lengths of the crack/face that were described were more similar than the shorter upper crack. But I had to do the upper one just to be sure I did the correct route.

Thanks for the clarification!
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Max

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #739 on: November 07, 2016, 09:28:44 AM »
Here's a picture of the hanger. I guess it's just the finish or whatever, not dust or poop.
When in doubt, run it out!