Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)

[Brad Young]

This is a joke right?

I thought this anchor encroaches on another route and is only the first pitch of a project formerly known as Turkey Squat.

This name is also the title of one of the worst songs ever written.

No, "Turkey Squat" was a working name that I gave it (with a smile on my face after I survived leading it). No-one ever knew that I listed it that way except you and Munge.

It's a complete, one pitch route. The encroaching anchor is one or two hundred feet higher and isn't part of this route at all (and that extra anchor was placed inadvertently).

As to the name? Well I pushed Munge pretty hard to come up with a name and he was kind enough to oblige me so I could post this. Gotta agree about the song - although I'm not sure it's the writing on that one, it may be the singing (imagine AC/DC's version of it - if they had done one, and it probably wouldn't be that bad). So if he wants to stick with that as a name, we will. And if he tells me to change it, I will.   

[mungeclimber]

1. JC, why would it be a joke? Perhaps there's a good story behind the name.
2. If anyone gives a shit about what has been labelled 'encroaching' feel free to message me. A lead bolt was doubled, no run out distances were modified. And when done, Where the Birds Hang will have been partially rebolted (not retrobolted).
3. I pinged Josh already about a name. It's technically his to name, even though the first part of the route had a wonderful clown on the sharp end.

[JC w KC redux]

1. JC, why would it be a joke? Perhaps there's a good story behind the name.
2. If anyone gives a shit about what has been labelled 'encroaching' feel free to message me. A lead bolt was doubled, no run out distances were modified. And when done, Where the Birds Hang will have been partially rebolted (not retrobolted).
3. I pinged Josh already about a name. It's technically his to name, even though the first part of the route had a wonderful clown on the sharp end.

Whoops! Sorry Mungie, sorry Josh - I was just giving Brad grief - imagine that  

I didn't mean to say or imply that anyone had done anything wrong or improper.

I guess I am going to have to go back and remove all the bolts to restore all of my runouts.

[clink]

I guess I am going to have to go back and remove all the bolts to restore all of my runouts.

 

[JC w KC redux]

I just couldn't figure out why it took so long to post the route and I got curious.

Sunday we did one route that was new to me. This route was among the worst 10% of routes I've ever done at Pinns (really bad rock quality and dirt everywhere). I led this and then invited Roger to skip it. He insisted that he wanted to at least follow it and then did so. He ended up just laughing at how bad it was. But this turned out to be a critical climb - it helped him set his gauge regarding how bad Pinns climbs can be.

[squiddo]

I couldn't figure out why it took Brad so long to post the route.

Ha, guessing he's shoveling snow. For the 4th time. Today.

[JC w KC redux]

I couldn't figure out why it took Brad so long to post the route.

It was 3 years from the FA until he led it and another 3 years until he posted it.


Maybe this needs to go on the Historic thread. It's got to be some kind of record.

[squiddo]

It was 3 years from the FA until he led it and another 3 years until he posted it - wtf?

That must have been one hell of an extended phone conversation. I hope long distance charges didn't apply 

Maybe this needs to go on the Historic thread.

JC, clearly he's getting older. Age and what not.

AT ANY rate, worth a repeat

[mungeclimber]

He had been holding off on it, in part waiting for me to get back in there to push the line.

Now that it has a reputation, and my willing victims, er I mean partners, are either not climbing at all or are doing Grade V FAs in Yosemite.

oye

[clink]

                        Hold the line
                Love isn't always on time

          It's not in the words that you told me
         It's not in the way you say you're mine
       It's not in the way that you came back to me
       It's not in the way that your love set me free
 It's not in the way you look or the things that you say that you do

[JC w KC redux]

He had been holding off on it, in part waiting for me to get back in there to push the line.
Now that it has a reputation, and my willing victims, er I mean partners, are either not climbing at all or are doing Grade V FAs in Yosemite.
oye

See - I knew it wasn't intended to originally finish where it did!

[Brad Young]

See - I knew it wasn't intended to originally finish where it did.

I'm starting to agree with the (so far) quiet suggestions that we use a cattle prod on him.

[Brad Young]

I added six new routes to the list today:

- 352.914  A Grand Adventure  5.6 *

- 352.915  Party Crasher  5.6  R

- 352.923  Celebration Slab  5.3 *

- 352.926  Geezer Pleezer  5.0 *

- 352.941  Junction Boulder - Summit Route  5.4

- 364.13  Merry Poppins  5.11a *

Those who've done these routes will please look over the descriptions and offer edits or suggestions.

[looks easy from here]

352.914  A Grand Adventure  5.6 *  FA Party:  blahblahblah, Shane Hill, blahblahblah

Look ma, I'm famous!

[Brad Young]

Look ma, I'm famous!

Well it's not exactly like you're on the cover of the Rolling Stone 

[clink]

364.13  Merry Poppins  5.11a *  This short crack climb is located on the Chimney Sweep formation, 175 feet right of Flue Fire.  Look for a crack in a corner where the south-facing side of a buttress joins the main rock.  Small to medium gear protect 30 feet of climbing to a two-bolt anchor (the route ends here because the rock deteriorates above).

Aaron and I were entertained and gripped watching King, on his second go, boulder up past where his first piece would do any good, switching hands in the little finger locks and looking for what to grab next. He managed  to stick the next couple of thin moves to a rest and get in a second and final cam. Of the many spontaneous vocal "yodel" exclamations that erupted out of King, one he claimed was a first issuance, never heard before.

The rock is very good at the crux.

[the Kid]

Is she well enough now that we can piggyback her in and let her serve as our belay anchor?

I DON'T GET ON HERE ENOUGH! At least seeing and/or replying to your quips late is better than never

Real question: I'm looking for directions to Old Man and Voyeur crags and any other new stuff in the 5.10-5.11 ranges. Has anyone written anything up or are you guys still protecting your secrets and potential lines or am I just incompetent at navigating these forums? Also do you think that stuff will be dry by tomorrow?

[Brad Young]

I DON'T GET ON HERE ENOUGH! At least seeing and/or replying to your quips late is better than never

Real question: I'm looking for directions to Old Man and Voyeur crags and any other new stuff in the 5.10-5.11 ranges. Has anyone written anything up or are you guys still protecting your secrets and potential lines or am I just incompetent at navigating these forums? Also do you think that stuff will be dry by tomorrow?

No secrets, you're "just incompetent."

Go to the first page of this thread:

http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=886.0

Routes at The Old Man start with the number 302.

I've got the new map done too, which shows The Old Man. But I am leaving for a week in Red Rocks in one hour and can't get it to you right now. J.C. has the map, and I think the ability to print it out. Perhaps if you ask him nicely?

[the Kid]

No secrets, you're "just incompetent."

I'll inform my employer it's time to send me out to pasture. Actually I think I'm suffering from a combination of poor internet connection, old computer, and lack of coffee.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Have fun in RR!

[NOAL]

I think both areas will be dry.  The Voyeur Wall has an easier approach but it is shady.  If you choose to climb there remember the climbs go right to left: Sticky Monkey, OCD Overdrive,  then Cutting the Rug,   

Have fun!