December 14, 2017, 05:16:17 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: For current weather conditions at Pinnacles, click here.
 
   Home   Help Search Login Register  
Pages: 1 ... 38 39 40 41 [42] 43
  Print  
Author Topic: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)  (Read 2688691 times)
mynameismud
unworthy

Posts: 4892


WWW
« Reply #820 on: November 16, 2017, 11:17:07 AM »

sticks are dead.  Go electric.
Logged

Here's to sweat in your eye
JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
*
Posts: 3508


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #821 on: November 16, 2017, 11:34:10 AM »

sticks are dead.  Go electric.

I's rather be dead than go electric.

Fossil fuels rule - and just for the record they are the most likely source of what is charging most batteries.  Yes Nod Laugh Out Loud Ciappa
Logged
Brad Young
Grand Master
**
Posts: 4486


« Reply #822 on: November 16, 2017, 11:57:35 AM »

It'll be the old 2001 stick shift that Katie was driving. But first we'll let her drive the Ford and my new Subaru so that she's got some familiarity with driving in general.

Logged
JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
*
Posts: 3508


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #823 on: November 16, 2017, 12:18:16 PM »

It'll be the old 2001 stick shift that Katie was driving. But first we'll let her drive the Ford and my new Subaru so that she's got some familiarity with driving in general.

As long as she drives some newly established and found routes.
You may also want to remind her that no route is completely worthless - it can always serve as a bad example  Big Grin
Logged
Brad Young
Grand Master
**
Posts: 4486


« Reply #824 on: November 16, 2017, 12:27:31 PM »


As long as she drives some newly established and found routes.
You may also want to remind her that no route is completely worthless - it can always serve as a bad example  Big Grin


Nah, I'm supposed to be the good example  Tongue
Logged
Brad Young
Grand Master
**
Posts: 4486


« Reply #825 on: November 16, 2017, 01:21:10 PM »

Gavin below the crux of Gopher It:


Logged
mynameismud
unworthy

Posts: 4892


WWW
« Reply #826 on: November 16, 2017, 04:38:17 PM »

I's rather be dead than go electric.

Fossil fuels rule - and just for the record they are the most likely source of what is charging most batteries.  Yes Nod Laugh Out Loud Ciappa

Currently yes.  CA actually had it first hours this year where the majority of the power came from renewables.  fossil fuels are so yesterday.  Most of the new power going online is renewables.  Look forward to when I can afford an electric car.  Fossil fuel cars are slow.
Logged

Here's to sweat in your eye
JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
*
Posts: 3508


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #827 on: November 16, 2017, 05:09:06 PM »

Gavin below the crux of Gopher It:

Looks easy from here  Yes Nod Laugh Out Loud Roll Eyes
Logged
clink
Pin Heads
*
Posts: 2325


« Reply #828 on: November 16, 2017, 06:07:24 PM »

Looks like an ankle buster. How is the pro? (I don't mean Gavin)
Logged

Causing trouble when not climbing.
Brad Young
Grand Master
**
Posts: 4486


« Reply #829 on: November 16, 2017, 06:32:35 PM »


Looks like an ankle buster. How is the pro? (I don't mean Gavin)


Josh put one bolt in just above Gavin. We put in two more, fairly closely spaced. The moves getting to bolt two are easy 5.10 and lead to a really good clipping hand-hold. Then the crux starts. On one attempt Gavin fell off the middle of the crux and I was able to keep him off the slab. The third bolt is clipped after grabbing the large finish holds; we put that one in so a fall while doing the awkward moves onto the ending ledge wouldn't break someone from hitting the slab.
Logged
JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
*
Posts: 3508


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #830 on: November 20, 2017, 03:42:08 PM »


Unsolicited gear recs

I used small gear on Camouflage Corner - aliens, a .5 camalot and a medium stopper.

On BAP Trap I used 4 pieces - .75, 1, 2 and 3 camalot.

Logged
Brad Young
Grand Master
**
Posts: 4486


« Reply #831 on: December 06, 2017, 06:16:25 PM »

I added two routes to the list today:

-  22.2  Old School  5.7

-  22.4  Mountaineers Route  5.4

It was fun to finally follow-up on Mucci comment about seeing an old fixed pin in the area (thanks Cooks and Cochran!).
Logged
JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
*
Posts: 3508


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #832 on: December 07, 2017, 08:27:37 AM »

I added two routes to the list today:
-  22.2  Old School  5.7
-  22.4  Mountaineers Route  5.4
It was fun to finally follow-up on Mucci comment about seeing an old fixed pin in the area (thanks Cooks and Cochran!).

The route crux follows (5.4), awkward moves over a low bulge.

You forgot to say the rating is contingent on a butt cheek technique that is not at all obvious and counter intuitive to those of us climbing with any finesse in mind. Pulling the move head on is reachy, awkward, committing and 5.7 or 5.8  Yikes Laugh Out Loud
Logged
Brad Young
Grand Master
**
Posts: 4486


« Reply #833 on: December 07, 2017, 08:51:10 AM »


You forgot to say the rating is contingent on a butt cheek technique that is not at all obvious and counter intuitive to those of us climbing with any finesse in mind.

Hahahahaha.

You know, even though you've raced through the list of Pinnacles routes in so little time, there are some disadvantages to not having been climbing as many overall years as some of us who've had to use our "butt-cheek moves" before.


Quote
Pulling the move head on is reachy, awkward, committing and 5.7 or 5.8  Yikes Laugh Out Loud

And yet you pulled it off this way....
Logged
JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
*
Posts: 3508


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #834 on: December 07, 2017, 11:05:00 AM »

Hahahahaha.
You know, even though you've raced through the list of Pinnacles routes in so little time, there are some disadvantages to not having been climbing as many overall years as some of us who've had to use our "butt-cheek moves" before.

Butt you told me it was 5.3  Laugh Out Loud Maybe I should have realized something was seriously wrong when I bouldered up and down several times trying to unlock it.  I have an idea! I evidently did it bass ackwards  Ciappa

And yet you pulled it off this way....

Yes and I'm still not really sure how hard I made it since I did not have my climbing shoes on.
That probably made it feel a grade harder  Crazy Yes Nod Eeeeek



Logged
Brad Young
Grand Master
**
Posts: 4486


« Reply #835 on: December 12, 2017, 11:08:56 AM »

OK, I got these three new routes added to the list today:

-  0.23  Rock Bottom  5.6

-  0.25  Tenuous  5.7

-  0.26  Stick It  5.5
Logged
JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
*
Posts: 3508


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #836 on: December 12, 2017, 01:16:35 PM »

For Stick It I would say chimney and or stem up the slot until you can latch onto the top of the ridge (shoulder) on the right side and shift over - then Stick It. Hard to say what would happen if someone tries to stay in the slot - but that is probably just me overthinking things - which we have seen lately I have a special talent for... Big Grin
Logged
squiddo
Pin Heads
*
Posts: 2318


If it itches, scratch it.


« Reply #837 on: December 12, 2017, 01:22:04 PM »

Josh put one bolt in just above Gavin. We put in two more, fairly closely spaced. The moves getting to bolt two are easy 5.10 and lead to a really good clipping hand-hold. Then the crux starts. On one attempt Gavin fell off the middle of the crux and I was able to keep him off the slab. The third bolt is clipped after grabbing the large finish holds; we put that one in so a fall while doing the awkward moves onto the ending ledge wouldn't break someone from hitting the slab.


Looks fun
Logged

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber
Brad Young
Grand Master
**
Posts: 4486


« Reply #838 on: December 12, 2017, 01:24:50 PM »


...I would say chimney and or stem up the slot until you can latch onto the top of the ridge (shoulder) on the right side and shift over - then Stick It. Hard to say what would happen if someone tries to stay in the slot


As you've seen, I don't often give information on how to climb a route in its description. I don't in this description either.

Also, the risk of anyone trying to stay in that slot is infinitesimal. To start with, no-one is ever (EVER!!) going to repeat those routes. If (IF!!) any fanatic nut-case did go out there, they, like each of the four of us, will find that there's only one natural way to climb that route. No-one that knows climbing well enough to go there is going to try to stay in the slot.
Logged
Brad Young
Grand Master
**
Posts: 4486


« Reply #839 on: December 12, 2017, 01:27:12 PM »

^^^

And think about it: if I did give descriptions of "how" to climb routes, your right butt-cheek might still be bruised from the crux on Mountaineers Route.

 Grin   Roll Eyes
Logged
Pages: 1 ... 38 39 40 41 [42] 43
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.20 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!