Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)

[mungeclimber]

uh, huh, huh huh.... he said master beta.

[NOAL]

Master Beta Spray edition   

Will NOT be sold in the visitor center.

[climberdude]

I was considering going ice climbing on Saturday, but the weather conditions for Huntington Lake did not look favorable for good ice.  So I went to the Pinnacles instead.  I climbed the very nice "Mountaineers' Route".  It is amazing that one of the pitons does not have rust on it.  I do not think the crux is 5.4.  It is very difficult to rate, but I give it somewhere between hard 5.8 and hard 5.9.

I wonder how long it will be before the semi-kitty litter holds on "Rock Bottom" disappear?

[JC w KC redux]

I climbed the very nice "Mountaineers' Route".  It is amazing that one of the pitons does not have rust on it.  I do not think the crux is 5.4.  It is very difficult to rate, but I give it somewhere between hard 5.8 and hard 5.9.

I think that piton has some sort of coating. If I recall correctly, the one on Old School is the same way.
I agree about the crux move. If you do it straight on it is about as hard as I would ever want to do in approach shoes. They told me it was 5.3 and I told them it felt 5.8 the way I did it. I figured it was at least 5.7 since I did not have my climbing shoes on.
The Butt Cheek Technique discussion ensued afterwards.

[Brad Young]

I was considering going ice climbing on Saturday, but the weather conditions for Huntington Lake did not look favorable for good ice.  So I went to the Pinnacles instead.  I climbed the very nice "Mountaineers' Route".  It is amazing that one of the pitons does not have rust on it.  I do not think the crux is 5.4.  It is very difficult to rate, but I give it somewhere between hard 5.8 and hard 5.9.

Although I'm not in the habit of telling people how to climb, there is obviously a very big difference in difficulty on this route, depending on how one does the crux. I changed the route description accordingly.

I wonder how long it will be before the semi-kitty litter holds on "Rock Bottom" disappear?

Answer: a long, long time. No-one else but us and you are crazy enough to climb this.

[Brad Young]

BTW, if the word "scootch" isn't descriptive enough, gimme some other suggestions.

[mungeclimber]

BTW, if the word "scootch" isn't descriptive enough, gimme some other suggestions.

Horizontal or vertical?  There are only two kinds of scootch. The other you drink.

[Brad Young]

Horizontal or vertical?  There are only two kinds of scootch. The other you drink.

Kinda huck up from a semi-lieback until your butt goes up and right onto a shelf of rock. Then re-adjust your feet and stand up. The moving up and then "landing" on the right butt cheek part is the "scootch."

[squiddo]

Horizontal or vertical?  There are only two kinds of scootch. The other you drink.

Mmmmmmmm whisky

[mungeclimber]

Kinda huck up from a semi-lieback until your butt goes up and right onto a shelf of rock. Then re-adjust your feet and stand up. The moving up and then "landing" on the right butt cheek part is the "scootch."

That's a scum.  Cheek scum, to be precise.  Scootch is more inch wormy. And could even be done in a crouched position.

https://www.bing.com/search?q=define+scooch

[Brad Young]

That's a scum.  Cheek scum, to be precise.  Scootch is more inch wormy. And could even be done in a crouched position.

https://www.bing.com/search?q=define+scooch

I've never pictured a cheek scum as involving an end point where you're sitting on the butt cheek briefly (before re-arranging feet and turning around and up). With the classic cheek, scum, one is still basically vertical, not in a sitting position. See the first part of your attachment: "crouch or squat."

^^^

Oh golly, did I place a comma in the wrong place above?

[climberdude]

Yeah, the butt placement is how I did the climb, but I still think it is harder than 5.4 even with this butt placement move.

[JC w KC redux]

Yeah, the butt placement is how I did the climb, but I still think it is harder than 5.4 even with this butt placement move.

So apparently I am STILL the only one in the group that does not know how to climb AND the description modification was not needed. 

[JC w KC redux]

Although I'm not in the habit of telling people how to climb,

Cough...micro manager...cough

I wonder how long it will be before the semi-kitty litter holds on "Rock Bottom" disappear?

Answer: a long, long time. No-one else but us and you are crazy   enough to climb this.

He didn't actually say he climbed it and the kitty litter is apparent from the start  
EDIT - sounds like he did climb it and if he rope soloed then I agree...

[NOAL]

you know you are getting old when you need 5.4 beta.

[Brad Young]

you know you are getting old when you need 5.4 beta.

Oh, your time is coming young man. Your time is coming....

[Brad Young]

Heres my post from a thread Munge started on Supertopo (presumably to getter a wider field of input on the critical question     ):

Think of how often, when jamming in a corner, you scum your shoulder against the wall. Then look at the wear on the incredible hand crack, or virtually any crack in a corner in Indian creek.

This actually started as a discussion between Munge and me on Mudn'Crud.

Munge, Jaybro's definition (above) is just what I was talking about (substitute butt-cheek for shoulder though). A "scootch" isn't the same thing.

[NOAL]

Oh, your time is coming young man. Your time is coming....

true about the old part but not for tips on figuring out low 5th class.

also, I have been meaning to ask why do some of the new low fifth class routes have R ratings?  what qualifies the R?  There are many  routes below 5.6 that  have little to no pro but do not have a R.

[mynameismud]

In the past to get R the route easy pitches had to have no bolts for the entire pitch.  I went through the Rubine book and listed out all the R rated routes.  I think this has changed and the R is much softer now.  That can be said for most climbers as well : )

[mungeclimber]

Heres my post from a thread Munge started on Supertopo (presumably to getter a wider field of input on the critical question     ):

This actually started as a discussion between Munge and me on Mudn'Crud.

Munge, Jaybro's definition (above) is just what I was talking about (substitute butt-cheek for shoulder though). A "scootch" isn't the same thing.

 Yes. Sorry for not being explicitly propositional. But that's what the point of my post was about, if I read your response rightly. Scootch is not appropriate for the move. Scum could be, mainly because Scootch/Scooch is already defined in a way that doesn't match the moves described. Are you agreeing with me, or only to the extent that Scootch is not the right word? 

More specifically, if the hiney hugging the cheek does is only partial and not an entire resting cheek, then it would be a cheek-scum. There is a chance something could come off in a cheek-scum move. But a full resting ba-dunk-a-dunk, is merely sitting, and therefore cannot be considered a climbing 'move'.



The scum definition is not well defined, but oft used, and in many different ways.