Author Topic: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)  (Read 2942108 times)

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #900 on: December 20, 2017, 03:04:27 PM »
I see the need for a banana split.

Step away from the DQ!

Tokyo Drift is okay - thread drift is inexcusable and should be a flogging offense - whips and chains and hand grenades  :yesnod:
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #901 on: December 20, 2017, 04:57:39 PM »
Use a tape measure. Bolt every 6-8 feet.

I just blew my Christmas wad on bolts and I plan to do just that - no more 5.3R's  :nonod: :frown2: :out: :prrr: :ciappa:
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NOAL

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #902 on: December 20, 2017, 05:23:55 PM »
save the bolts for stuff 5.6 and up.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #903 on: December 20, 2017, 05:39:04 PM »
save the bolts for stuff 5.6 and up.

Nah...I'll run those out  :biggrin: :thumbup: :yesnod: :lol:
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #904 on: January 14, 2018, 08:18:15 PM »
I added three routes to the list today (I've gotten behind in keeping this current, which irritates me - but between real work and a ridiculous amount of time getting guidebook stuff together, edited, and/or cleaned...).

-  235.1  Pleiades  5.9 *

-  352.51  Lonesome Me  5.5 *

-  352.54  Off With Her Hands  5.5

On Pleiades, I had thought either 5.8 or 5.9 when I did the first lead. Assuming that I was affected by residual dust from brushing holds, I originally went with the easier/more conservative rating, 5.8.

Brian's lead of it convinced me otherwise. He hesitated while figuring out the crux, just like I did. His comment while leading was icing on the cake. He said, after getting onto easier ground: "It felt 5.9. But if I channel my inner Dennis, I might be able to call it 5.8."

He thought it very comparable to both The Long and the Short of It and Thrill Hammer in difficulty and quality. So 5.9 seems right.

mynameismud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #905 on: January 15, 2018, 08:46:52 AM »
Isn't Thrill Hammer 5.7?
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #906 on: January 15, 2018, 10:57:40 AM »
I added three routes to the list today

-  352.51  Lonesome Me  5.5 *


Never figured you for a Neil Young fan... :idea:



I added three routes to the list today

-  352.54  Off With Her Hands  5.5

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briham89

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #907 on: January 16, 2018, 09:35:08 AM »
Quote
Never figured you for a Neil Young fan...

Brad and I listened to Neil Young the whole way to Pinns from Santa Cruz on Saturday.

....and there's my first post  ;D

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #908 on: January 16, 2018, 09:40:08 AM »
Love Neil Young.

"Off With Her Hands" was a name I'd wanted to use for a long time. Katie thought of it as a Pinnacles-specific route name.

Funny that you just happened to have the perfect photo to go with it....

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #909 on: January 25, 2018, 05:28:13 PM »
0.8  East Ridge Rock  5.5 A1  Got added to the list today.

This is one route that I just don't think will go free. The upper part might, with an all-out thrutching, beached whale type move. I wasn't willing to do that roped solo (and above a failed bolt - see explanation below). But the bottom eight or so feet are quite vertical and the rock is very scaley. Nothing I could reach (nor Brian when he was there with me earlier) would stay attached.

Now that the bolts are in though, who knows? Not that anyone would walk the 25 minutes up there to try it (no-one with any damn sense would anyway).

I had my first failed "new-style" Powers five-piece bolt on this too. I'd filed the cone down some as recommended by our resident expert on the mechanics of bolts (it's worked like a charm before - this one was probably not filed down enough though). I'm now five out of six on success for these new (and un-improved) bolts.

All in all a very, very physical two days. Not only did I have to go back on day two (to finish the anchor and replace the failed bolt), I scrambled all over the south part of Bear Gulch, rope-soloed The Direct Route on The Monolith, and then rapped/jugged all over the north and west faces to check bolt counts and adjust topos. Damn I'm old.


JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #910 on: January 26, 2018, 11:12:01 AM »


This is where I put East Ridge Rock navigating with your approach directions on Google Earth.
Is this right?
You can see parking and the water tank toward the top of the picture and the photo is oriented correctly in terms of compass directions.

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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #911 on: January 26, 2018, 12:31:28 PM »


This is where I put East Ridge Rock navigating with your approach directions on Google Earth.
Is this right?
You can see parking and the water tank toward the top of the picture and the photo is oriented correctly in terms of compass directions.




Yes, East Ridge Rock is circled in your photo.

It's weird though looking at that aerial shot: It makes it look like it would be an easy, mostly brush-free approach from the lower part of Marmot Wall. That's definitely not what Brian and I experienced. We went out the way I described in my directions and were quite surprised at how little brush we had to navigate  ;D




JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #912 on: January 26, 2018, 02:22:44 PM »
Speaking of navigation - don't forget to duck when Ellen fires across your bow  :incazzato: :madmax: :madman:
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #913 on: January 27, 2018, 07:29:45 PM »
0.8  East Ridge Rock  5.5 A0  Got added to the list today.
This is one route that I just don't think will go free.


Free is when you don't have to pay for nothing or do nothing - we want to be free - free as the wind...

F Zappa 1981...
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Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #914 on: February 13, 2018, 09:12:18 PM »
I added two routes to the list today:

-  401.5  Back Track  5.4

-  401.6  Hat Trick  5.5

Tricia and I put these climbs up together, and I wanted to post a little about the derivation of the formation name. Tricia plays in the "Orange Crush," Summerville High School's band (the school colors are black and orange). She plays trumpet. She absolutely loves the instrument and loves her peer group.

On occasion, Orange Crush gets fancy. They have and wear full dress uniforms for things like the Homecoming football game. As part of their uniform they wear shakos. A shako is is military-style hat that includes a plume. It has a unique look. Here's a shako on Tricia:







Here's a photo of the Pinnacles rock formation "The Shako" (both shots taken from the High Peaks Trail; note also that The Shako is left of The Snout in both photos):







The colors might be different, but I think it is obvious that the basic idea is the same.

She and I had a good day. After I placed the first summit bolt, she came up and helped place the second (and took selfies too while I did my share of drilling):










The anchor turned out well (well equalized with two very nice bolts):







Neither route is as good quality as I'd hoped. Still, both are relatively long and we reached the top of a pinnacle that had (to all appearances) never been reached. But the best part was having a great day with this tough and fun kid (I really, really like her).

And one last shot; me drilling the first lead bolt on Hat Trick:








mynameismud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #915 on: February 13, 2018, 09:30:54 PM »
Awesome
Here's to sweat in your eye

NOAL

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #916 on: February 13, 2018, 09:51:18 PM »
Cool! A day to remember for sure.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #917 on: February 14, 2018, 08:41:30 PM »
I added another route to the list today:

871.5  Prune Pinnacle - Regular Route 5.2

clink

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #918 on: February 15, 2018, 06:54:46 AM »

 Tricia Henry!  :)
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #919 on: February 23, 2018, 12:27:06 PM »
I added seven new routes to the list today:

-  259.937  Danger Noodle  5.10b

-  305.62  Tick Talk  5.4
                                                                                                    
-  305.63  Top Knot  5.3 R

-  305.65  Behemoth  5.7 R

-  305.67  The Glob  Class Four

-  305.82  Uncorked  5.8 *

-  305.83  The Flask - Back Side  5.2 R