Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)

[Brad Young]

Very nice. I just found a couple of very minor typos (2 that are probably meaningless in the long run/for the book).
On Pebbles and Bam Bam and Long in the Tooth the c in my last name is lower case after "post by"
FA date on Tooth Fairy is shown as 2018 but it's 2017.

I have no idea what you're talking about....



  

[Brad Young]

^^^

By the way, the original description for Long in the Tooth did not include the words "on nice rock" within the parentheses after the 5.8 rating (although the statement is completely true, it seemed unneeded).

But try typing 5.8 within parentheses and getting it to post on this site (or other sites too).

[F4?]

When is the new guide coming out?

[Brad Young]

I added one route to the list today:

- 627.8  Dollar a Day and Found  5.0 R

[JC w KC redux]

I added one route to the list today:
- 627.8  Dollar a Day and Found  5.0 R

Reads nice. I especially liked the use of the word scruffy.

Take some bacon and beans or hard tack to gnaw on while you watch for the posse.

Also a good spot for a picnic and a nap 

[climberdude]

For "Dollar A Day And Found", you might want to clarify that staying west of the formation when hiking up means staying to the right of the formation.  I did a massive bush thrash to the left thinking that left was more west.  On descent I found the easier way.  The existing top bolt is interesting since it faces down face below, i.e., obviously pre-dated this new climb.  It looks like someone gave up on the second bolt hole at the top due to cratering (never had that happen to me  ).

I highly recommend "Prune Pinnacle - Regular Route" to anyone who is a true Pinnacles afficendo.  Don't worry, the rock crumbles in areas that are easy climbing - just do not pull too hard.    And if the rock breaks, you are not going for too much of a ride.  Plus, you will be the star in many hikers' cellphone pictures.  "Look, Mom, there's a climber".

[JC w KC redux]

For "Dollar A Day And Found", you might want to clarify that staying west of the formation when hiking up means staying to the right of the formation.
 I did a massive bush thrash to the left thinking that left was more west.  On descent I found the easier way.  The existing top bolt is interesting since it faces down face below, i.e., obviously pre-dated this new climb.  It looks like someone gave up on the second bolt hole at the top due to cratering (never had that happen to me  ).

If you're reefering to the scruffy pinnacle on the way in, I have gone past both sides without much fuss. There's quite a bit of weaving to stay in the clear areas. You can also start up there from the left side of Big Bad West. I scrambled all the way up the slabs above Passion Play Wall one day to get up there too.
Yes - I was surprised to find that newish bolt pointing in that direction and not in very good rock. It also was not very tight.  

I highly recommend "Prune Pinnacle - Regular Route" to anyone who is a true Pinnacles afficendo.  Don't worry, the rock crumbles in areas that are easy climbing - just do not pull too hard.    And if the rock breaks, you are not going for too much of a ride.  Plus, you will be the star in many hikers' cellphone pictures.  "Look, Mom, there's a climber".

Funny dude. Kat was eavesdropping on many a hiker when we went back up there. We did Brittle Palace on Friday and I would definitely recommend Prune Pinnacle over that one. Much easier to get to and more fun. Stay regular my friend  

[climberdude]

Ok, now I understand you are supposed to stay west of the scruffy formation, not west of the Robber's Roost formation.  If you go west of Robber's Roost, you are definitely in for a bush thrash.

Actually, I thought Prune Pinnacle was an excellent climb.  I noticed that the entire arête just beyond the third bolt is hollow, so I rode the arête like a horse.  I will have to check out some of the other climbs in this area as this section is one of the few areas of Pinnacles that I have not done much climbs there.

[JC w KC redux]

Ok, now I understand you are supposed to stay west of the scruffy formation, not west of the Robber's Roost formation.  If you go west of Robber's Roost, you are definitely in for a bush thrash.

Actually, I thought Prune Pinnacle was an excellent climb.  I noticed that the entire arête just beyond the third bolt is hollow, so I rode the arête like a horse.  I will have to check out some of the other climbs in this area as this section is one of the few areas of Pinnacles that I have not done much climbs there.

There are quite a few what the park calls "social" trails that head up that way and it is easy to take a wrong turn when weaving through all that brush.

I hear ya about the ridge on Prune. The spot where we located the anchor was one of the few spots that tested okay for drilling - I was starting to wonder if I was going to find anything good. That patch is quite hard and I thought the rappel was fun and nice to drop back to the start - minus that big, scary, rope-snagging flake to the right as you slide down.
Ride 'em cowboy! 

Tombstone, Monument, Crumbling Castle are fun if you haven't done them. There's a nice replacement anchor waiting on Brittle Palace too. Cave Pinnacle is scary to touch the actual summit and then downclimb. A lot of the stuff higher up the trail is cool too but much of it is sensitive for a few more months. 

[clink]

Climberdude, you should climb the crack/corner and on up to the rappel anchors on Prune.

[JC w KC redux]

Climberdude, you should climb the crack/corner and on up to the rappel anchors on Prune.

Fletcher - you should drop a big rock on clink next time you see him 

[clink]

 

[JC w KC redux]

Climberdude, you should climb the crack/corner and on up to the rappel anchors on Prune.

Suggested name - Rock Shower 

[climberdude]

Good one 

[Brad Young]

I added two routes to the list today:

-  322.141  Endeavor to Persevere  5.7 *

-  322.142  Whistlin’ Dixie  5.7 *

[JC w KC redux]

Looks good.

Reach a group of four spire-like boulders (the tallest is 20 feet high on its downhill side).

These are the Crocodile snouts 

[clink]

 322.141  Endeavor to Persevere  5.7 *

 Good route for ample climbers. 

[JC w KC redux]

322.141  Endeavor to Persevere  5.7 *

 Good route for ample climbers. 

You ain't just whistlin' dixie 

[clink]

You ain't just whistlin' dixie 

 No shit. You should have seen the feast tonight!

[JC w KC redux]

No shit. You should have seen the feast tonight!

Push the plate away dude